Scratch removal project

[NetMax]

I have to re-silicone my tank's front pane, so as long as I have the
glass out (sitting on sawhorses right now), I thought that I might try my
hand at a little polishing, and if I learned anything useful, I'd post
the process & results to a web site. It's a hefty piece (60"x24"x1/2"
thick from a 120g tank), so it should be a good candidate for some abuse
;~). There are a lot of scratches (I bought the tank used, 30 years ago
;~) but 99% are much finer than a human hair.

I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
site is gone), and I'm quite sure that polishing glass is not an easy
thing to do, requiring many hours of work. My understanding is that it's
best to start with a coarse grit (cerium oxide, diamond dust?) and then
move to a fine grit (jeweller's rouge?) using a leather or felt pad on a
slow speed drill, keeping the slurry from getting too hot by spraying
water on it periodically. Does that sound right?

My first obstacle is that none of my local glass suppliers have these
products. I'm going to try astronomy sites next (they grind telescope
mirrors). Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could find cerium
oxide more locally using conventional retailers? (maybe Outcaste still
has some leftovers ;~). Ideally, it would come from some store most
people have access to, (to keep the web article more useful).

Also any advice before I start would be great! When I mined Google, I
read a lot of references to other powders which can be used, though I'll
probably only consider them for the finer polishing, rather than the
coarse surface preparation which will need a more aggressive abrasive to
start.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[kev]

On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion about...



> I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
> site is gone)

This site Netmax?

http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html


kev

--
Civilization.

An organized system of alternatives to the stone age - CJCherryh

[Charles Spitzer]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
> I have to re-silicone my tank's front pane, so as long as I have the
> glass out (sitting on sawhorses right now), I thought that I might try my
> hand at a little polishing, and if I learned anything useful, I'd post
> the process & results to a web site. It's a hefty piece (60"x24"x1/2"
> thick from a 120g tank), so it should be a good candidate for some abuse
> ;~). There are a lot of scratches (I bought the tank used, 30 years ago
> ;~) but 99% are much finer than a human hair.
>
> I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
> site is gone), and I'm quite sure that polishing glass is not an easy
> thing to do, requiring many hours of work. My understanding is that it's
> best to start with a coarse grit (cerium oxide, diamond dust?) and then
> move to a fine grit (jeweller's rouge?) using a leather or felt pad on a
> slow speed drill, keeping the slurry from getting too hot by spraying
> water on it periodically. Does that sound right?
>
> My first obstacle is that none of my local glass suppliers have these
> products. I'm going to try astronomy sites next (they grind telescope
> mirrors). Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could find cerium
> oxide more locally using conventional retailers? (maybe Outcaste still
> has some leftovers ;~). Ideally, it would come from some store most
> people have access to, (to keep the web article more useful).
>
> Also any advice before I start would be great! When I mined Google, I
> read a lot of references to other powders which can be used, though I'll
> probably only consider them for the finer polishing, rather than the
> coarse surface preparation which will need a more aggressive abrasive to
> start.
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>

you can buy the polishing compounds from glass or rock places.

http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html is one that i use.

[Iain Miller]

>
> Also any advice before I start would be great! When I mined Google, I
> read a lot of references to other powders which can be used, though I'll
> probably only consider them for the finer polishing, rather than the
> coarse surface preparation which will need a more aggressive abrasive to
> start.
> --

I used cerium oxide on my tank to good effect with an electric drill & a
felt pad about 1" in diameter that came with it as a kit. As you say you
need to keep it nice & wet to keep the temp down. Being the impatient sort
that I am I ran the drill quite fast & it still took a good hour to do an
area about 12" square. The glass they use in Fish tanks is bloody hard!

I.

[sophie]

In message >, NetMax
> writes
>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
>site is gone), and I'm quite sure that polishing glass is not an easy
>thing to do, requiring many hours of work. My understanding is that it's
>best to start with a coarse grit (cerium oxide, diamond dust?) and then
>move to a fine grit (jeweller's rouge?) using a leather or felt pad on a
>slow speed drill, keeping the slurry from getting too hot by spraying
>water on it periodically. Does that sound right?

Hi NetMax,

you could try rock shops (hobbyists places for rock collectors) for
grit; they sell a variety of grades of it for use in barrellers (aka
tumblers). It goes all the way down to "polish", which is finer than
fine grit, if you see what I mean. I'm not at all sure that rouge would
work on glass; my instinct says it wouldn't - I use it on silver and it
will _not_ polish out scratches in metal, what it does is put a high
gloss on a ready smoothed surface, and the metal gets incredibly hot
during the process.

I'm sure there must be a lot of places that sell what you what you need
online - this page may or may not be of some use, I haven;t looked at it
in depth:

http://www.metall.com.cn/cepp.htm

hth,

--
sophie

[NetMax]

"Larry Blanchard" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> says...
> >
> > I have to re-silicone my tank's front pane, so as long as I have the
> > glass out (sitting on sawhorses right now), I thought that I might
try my
> > hand at a little polishing, and if I learned anything useful, I'd
post
> > the process & results to a web site.
> >
> If the scratches are on the outside, or you can reverse the glass so
> that they are, there used to be a product sold at opticians for filling
> fine scratches in eyeglass lenses. Obviously, the filling couldn't
> distort anything :-).
>
> It may not work on glass, and may not even be available any more. But
> if it is give it a try - might save a lot of work.
>
> Even if that product doesn't work on glass, an optician may know of
> something that does.

That's a really clever idea. I have 10 square feet of glass with a lot
of small scratches so I'll need to get rid of most of them first. When
I'm finished, if I'm left with just a couple of scratches that I couldn't
get out, then I will definitely look into this. thanks!!
--
www.NetMax.tk

[NetMax]

"kev" > wrote in message
. 4...
> On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion about...
>
>
>
> > I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
> > site is gone)
>
> This site Netmax?
>
> http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>
>
> kev


Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was able
to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ . There
aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check Sophie's
suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches of
any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other directions
to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my application
(10 sq.ft.).
cheers & thanks again
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Steve]

NetMax wrote:

> "kev" > wrote in message
> . 4...
>
>>On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion about...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
>>>site is gone)
>>
>>This site Netmax?
>>
>>http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>>
>>
>>kev
>
>
>
> Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
> fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was able
> to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ . There
> aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check Sophie's
> suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
> carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches of
> any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other directions
> to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
> wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
> would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my application
> (10 sq.ft.).
> cheers & thanks again
If you can't find the sandpaper at a hardware store try a store that
sells automotive bodyshop supplies they should have #2000 some might
have #2500 as well.

[Charles Spitzer]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
> "kev" > wrote in message
> . 4...
> > On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion about...
> >
> >
> >
> > > I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
> > > site is gone)
> >
> > This site Netmax?
> >
> > http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
> >
> >
> > kev
>
>
> Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
> fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was able
> to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ . There
> aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check Sophie's
> suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
> carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches of
> any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other directions
> to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
> wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
> would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my application
> (10 sq.ft.).
> cheers & thanks again
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>

2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using the
sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't forget to
use water with any of these.

[Paul M. Cook©®]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
> I have to re-silicone my tank's front pane, so as long as I have the
> glass out (sitting on sawhorses right now), I thought that I might try my
> hand at a little polishing, and if I learned anything useful, I'd post
> the process & results to a web site. It's a hefty piece (60"x24"x1/2"
> thick from a 120g tank), so it should be a good candidate for some abuse
> ;~). There are a lot of scratches (I bought the tank used, 30 years ago
> ;~) but 99% are much finer than a human hair.
>
> I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
> site is gone), and I'm quite sure that polishing glass is not an easy
> thing to do, requiring many hours of work. My understanding is that it's
> best to start with a coarse grit (cerium oxide, diamond dust?) and then
> move to a fine grit (jeweller's rouge?) using a leather or felt pad on a
> slow speed drill, keeping the slurry from getting too hot by spraying
> water on it periodically. Does that sound right?
>
> My first obstacle is that none of my local glass suppliers have these
> products. I'm going to try astronomy sites next (they grind telescope
> mirrors). Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could find cerium
> oxide more locally using conventional retailers? (maybe Outcaste still
> has some leftovers ;~). Ideally, it would come from some store most
> people have access to, (to keep the web article more useful).
>
> Also any advice before I start would be great! When I mined Google, I
> read a lot of references to other powders which can be used, though I'll
> probably only consider them for the finer polishing, rather than the
> coarse surface preparation which will need a more aggressive abrasive to
> start.
>

I'm a DIY kind of guy but I can't help wondering if all the hassle is going
to be worth it. Wouldn't it be easier just to buy another new tank?
Certainly all those materials and tools are bound to add up to a price tag
close to a new 120. I paid 330 for my 150 and that included a stand, hood
and light fixture plus delivery.

Paul

[NetMax]

"Paul M. Cook©®" > wrote in message
...
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> . ..
> > I have to re-silicone my tank's front pane, so as long as I have the
> > glass out (sitting on sawhorses right now), I thought that I might
try my
> > hand at a little polishing, and if I learned anything useful, I'd
post
> > the process & results to a web site. It's a hefty piece
(60"x24"x1/2"
> > thick from a 120g tank), so it should be a good candidate for some
abuse
> > ;~). There are a lot of scratches (I bought the tank used, 30 years
ago
> > ;~) but 99% are much finer than a human hair.
> >
> > I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the Fitchfamily
> > site is gone), and I'm quite sure that polishing glass is not an easy
> > thing to do, requiring many hours of work. My understanding is that
it's
> > best to start with a coarse grit (cerium oxide, diamond dust?) and
then
> > move to a fine grit (jeweller's rouge?) using a leather or felt pad
on a
> > slow speed drill, keeping the slurry from getting too hot by spraying
> > water on it periodically. Does that sound right?
> >
> > My first obstacle is that none of my local glass suppliers have these
> > products. I'm going to try astronomy sites next (they grind
telescope
> > mirrors). Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could find
cerium
> > oxide more locally using conventional retailers? (maybe Outcaste
still
> > has some leftovers ;~). Ideally, it would come from some store most
> > people have access to, (to keep the web article more useful).
> >
> > Also any advice before I start would be great! When I mined Google,
I
> > read a lot of references to other powders which can be used, though
I'll
> > probably only consider them for the finer polishing, rather than the
> > coarse surface preparation which will need a more aggressive abrasive
to
> > start.
> >
>
> I'm a DIY kind of guy but I can't help wondering if all the hassle is
going
> to be worth it. Wouldn't it be easier just to buy another new tank?
> Certainly all those materials and tools are bound to add up to a price
tag
> close to a new 120. I paid 330 for my 150 and that included a stand,
hood
> and light fixture plus delivery.
>
> Paul

Good point. I was quoted $250 for a new sheet of glass, $400 for a new
tank. So far, $14 for silicone, $15 for cerium oxide, $8 sandpaper. I
expect to spend another $15 for sandpaper and another $14 for silicone.
If I can keep the expenses under $100 ($60 expected), and I achieve
something new and get to post information to help others, the math works
for me ;~).
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Cindy]

> I'm a DIY kind of guy but I can't help wondering if all the hassle is
> going to be worth it. Wouldn't it be easier just to buy another new
> tank? Certainly all those materials and tools are bound to add up to
> a price tag close to a new 120. I paid 330 for my 150 and that
> included a stand, hood and light fixture plus delivery.
>
> Paul

Huh, how'd you manage that? I paid $500 for my 150 with only a glass top
and single light fixture, and $375 for the wrought-iron stand. Both custom
made, though.

Cindy

[Paul M. Cook©®]

"Cindy" > wrote in message
. com...
>
> > I'm a DIY kind of guy but I can't help wondering if all the hassle is
> > going to be worth it. Wouldn't it be easier just to buy another new
> > tank? Certainly all those materials and tools are bound to add up to
> > a price tag close to a new 120. I paid 330 for my 150 and that
> > included a stand, hood and light fixture plus delivery.
> >
> > Paul
>
> Huh, how'd you manage that? I paid $500 for my 150 with only a glass top
> and single light fixture, and $375 for the wrought-iron stand. Both
custom
> made, though.


How'd I do it? I walked into the shop, saw the price tag and said "I'll
take one."

Paul

[Joe Crowder]

> > If the scratches are on the outside, or you can reverse the glass so
> > that they are, there used to be a product sold at opticians for filling
> > fine scratches in eyeglass lenses. Obviously, the filling couldn't
> > distort anything :-).
> >
> > It may not work on glass, and may not even be available any more. But
> > if it is give it a try - might save a lot of work.
> >
> > Even if that product doesn't work on glass, an optician may know of
> > something that does.
>
> That's a really clever idea. I have 10 square feet of glass with a lot
> of small scratches so I'll need to get rid of most of them first. When
> I'm finished, if I'm left with just a couple of scratches that I couldn't
> get out, then I will definitely look into this. thanks!!
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>
I've seen ads for this product latekly on TV (in MA, USA). Didn't pay any
attention. Just assumed they were the usual infomercial BS. If I see the
ad again I'll get you the contact info.

Joe

[NetMax]

"Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message
...
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> . ..
> > "kev" > wrote in message
> > . 4...
> > > On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion
about...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the
Fitchfamily
> > > > site is gone)
> > >
> > > This site Netmax?
> > >
> > > http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
> > >
> > >
> > > kev
> >
> >
> > Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
> > fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was
able
> > to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ .
There
> > aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check
Sophie's
> > suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
> > carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches
of
> > any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other
directions
> > to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
> > wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
> > would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my
application
> > (10 sq.ft.).
> > cheers & thanks again
> > --
> > www.NetMax.tk
> >
>
> 2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using
the
> sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
> loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't
forget to
> use water with any of these.


I've been told that a #2000 sandpaper is equivalent to a #3000 in diamond
dust. In any case, finding #2000 in discs is proving to be a problem.
There are still a few glass shops and auto-body shops to check out (if
something was too easy, then anybody could do it ;~).
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Bill Hudson]

NetMax wrote:
> "Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>
>>>"kev" > wrote in message
. 4...
>>>
>>>>On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion
>
> about...
>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the
>
> Fitchfamily
>
>>>>>site is gone)
>>>>
>>>>This site Netmax?
>>>>
>>>>http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>kev
>>>
>>>
>>>Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
>>>fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was
>
> able
>
>>>to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ .
>
> There
>
>>>aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check
>
> Sophie's
>
>>>suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
>>>carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches
>
> of
>
>>>any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other
>
> directions
>
>>>to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
>>>wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
>>>would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my
>
> application
>
>>>(10 sq.ft.).
>>>cheers & thanks again
>>>--
>>>www.NetMax.tk
>>>
>>
>>2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using
>
> the
>
>>sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
>>loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't
>
> forget to
>
>>use water with any of these.
>
>
>
> I've been told that a #2000 sandpaper is equivalent to a #3000 in diamond
> dust. In any case, finding #2000 in discs is proving to be a problem.
> There are still a few glass shops and auto-body shops to check out (if
> something was too easy, then anybody could do it ;~)


Well, they're not discs but...
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?cookietest=1&sku=9930


--
Bill Hudson

The email address above is a spamtrap. My real address
is hudsonwj at yahoo dot com

[NetMax]

"Bill Hudson" > wrote in message
...
> NetMax wrote:
>> "Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>>
>>>>"kev" > wrote in message
. 4...
>>>>
>>>>>On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion
>>
>> about...
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the
>>
>> Fitchfamily
>>
>>>>>>site is gone)
>>>>>
>>>>>This site Netmax?
>>>>>
>>>>>http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>kev
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
>>>>fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was
>>
>> able
>>
>>>>to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ .
>>
>> There
>>
>>>>aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check
>>
>> Sophie's
>>
>>>>suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
>>>>carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches
>>
>> of
>>
>>>>any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other
>>
>> directions
>>
>>>>to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
>>>>wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
>>>>would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my
>>
>> application
>>
>>>>(10 sq.ft.).
>>>>cheers & thanks again
>>>>--
>>>>www.NetMax.tk
>>>>
>>>
>>>2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using
>>
>> the
>>
>>>sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
>>>loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't
>>
>> forget to
>>
>>>use water with any of these.
>>
>>
>>
>> I've been told that a #2000 sandpaper is equivalent to a #3000 in diamond
>> dust. In any case, finding #2000 in discs is proving to be a problem.
>> There are still a few glass shops and auto-body shops to check out (if
>> something was too easy, then anybody could do it ;~)
>
>
> Well, they're not discs but...
> http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?cookietest=1&sku=9930
>
>
> --
> Bill Hudson
>
> The email address above is a spamtrap. My real address
> is hudsonwj at yahoo dot com

Hmmm, you are replying on a post which is 2 years old. Is this indicative
of how fast you think I work? ;~). Actually I have finished my polishing
*cough* and I siliconed the glass back into the tank, but have not filled it
with water yet. Ordinarily I get a significant bow over 5' so I was
thinking of adding a cross-brace and/or a stainless steel trim this time.
This will change the shape and of course my glass covers won't fit anymore
(they were designed to accommodate the bow).

In regards to the glass polishing *cough*, you will have to wait until I
have water in, to conclusively comment on what poor a job I did, however I
have developed a certain level of experience (notice I didn't say expertise)
in this project, and without even seeing the results, I think my advice
would be that if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, then forget
about trying to smooth it out.

Thanks for the link on the sandpaper, bookmarked.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Bill Hudson]

NetMax wrote:
> "Bill Hudson" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>NetMax wrote:
>>
>>>"Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>
>>>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>"kev" > wrote in message
. 4...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion
>>>
>>>about...
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the
>>>
>>>Fitchfamily
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>site is gone)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>This site Netmax?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>kev
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
>>>>>fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was
>>>
>>>able
>>>
>>>
>>>>>to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ .
>>>
>>>There
>>>
>>>
>>>>>aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check
>>>
>>>Sophie's
>>>
>>>
>>>>>suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
>>>>>carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches
>>>
>>>of
>>>
>>>
>>>>>any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other
>>>
>>>directions
>>>
>>>
>>>>>to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
>>>>>wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
>>>>>would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my
>>>
>>>application
>>>
>>>
>>>>>(10 sq.ft.).
>>>>>cheers & thanks again
>>>>>--
>>>>>www.NetMax.tk
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
>>>>loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't
>>>
>>>forget to
>>>
>>>
>>>>use water with any of these.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I've been told that a #2000 sandpaper is equivalent to a #3000 in diamond
>>>dust. In any case, finding #2000 in discs is proving to be a problem.
>>>There are still a few glass shops and auto-body shops to check out (if
>>>something was too easy, then anybody could do it ;~)
>>
>>
>>Well, they're not discs but...
>>http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?cookietest=1&sku=9930
>>
>>
>>--
>>Bill Hudson
>>
>>The email address above is a spamtrap. My real address
>>is hudsonwj at yahoo dot com
>
>
> Hmmm, you are replying on a post which is 2 years old. Is this indicative
> of how fast you think I work? ;~). Actually I have finished my polishing
> *cough* and I siliconed the glass back into the tank, but have not filled it
> with water yet. Ordinarily I get a significant bow over 5' so I was
> thinking of adding a cross-brace and/or a stainless steel trim this time.
> This will change the shape and of course my glass covers won't fit anymore
> (they were designed to accommodate the bow).
>
> In regards to the glass polishing *cough*, you will have to wait until I
> have water in, to conclusively comment on what poor a job I did, however I
> have developed a certain level of experience (notice I didn't say expertise)
> in this project, and without even seeing the results, I think my advice
> would be that if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, then forget
> about trying to smooth it out.
>
> Thanks for the link on the sandpaper, bookmarked.

Yah, I saw the date of your post *after* I replied. For some reason
your old post cropped up in my newsfeed, I have *no* idea why. At any
rate, I hope the sandpaper link proves useful in the future.

I wonder how well the #12,000 grit would work on acrylic...

--
Bill Hudson

The email address above is a spamtrap. My real address
is hudsonwj at yahoo dot com

[lgb]

In article >,
says...
> I wonder how well the #12,000 grit would work on acrylic..
>
Try a motorcycle dealer. They have all sorts of products for removing
scratches from acrylic windshields - and Lexan ones, which is a whole
different process.

--
BNSF = Build Now, Seep Forever

[Dick]

On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 16:34:15 -0400, "NetMax"
> wrote:

>"Bill Hudson" > wrote in message
...
>> NetMax wrote:
>>> "Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>
>>>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>>>
>>>>>"kev" > wrote in message
. 4...
>>>>>
>>>>>>On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion
>>>
>>> about...
>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the
>>>
>>> Fitchfamily
>>>
>>>>>>>site is gone)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>This site Netmax?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>kev
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
>>>>>fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was
>>>
>>> able
>>>
>>>>>to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ .
>>>
>>> There
>>>
>>>>>aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check
>>>
>>> Sophie's
>>>
>>>>>suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
>>>>>carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches
>>>
>>> of
>>>
>>>>>any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other
>>>
>>> directions
>>>
>>>>>to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
>>>>>wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
>>>>>would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my
>>>
>>> application
>>>
>>>>>(10 sq.ft.).
>>>>>cheers & thanks again
>>>>>--
>>>>>www.NetMax.tk
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using
>>>
>>> the
>>>
>>>>sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
>>>>loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't
>>>
>>> forget to
>>>
>>>>use water with any of these.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I've been told that a #2000 sandpaper is equivalent to a #3000 in diamond
>>> dust. In any case, finding #2000 in discs is proving to be a problem.
>>> There are still a few glass shops and auto-body shops to check out (if
>>> something was too easy, then anybody could do it ;~)
>>
>>
>> Well, they're not discs but...
>> http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?cookietest=1&sku=9930
>>
>>
>> --
>> Bill Hudson
>>
>> The email address above is a spamtrap. My real address
>> is hudsonwj at yahoo dot com
>
>Hmmm, you are replying on a post which is 2 years old. Is this indicative
>of how fast you think I work? ;~). Actually I have finished my polishing
>*cough* and I siliconed the glass back into the tank, but have not filled it
>with water yet. Ordinarily I get a significant bow over 5' so I was
>thinking of adding a cross-brace and/or a stainless steel trim this time.
>This will change the shape and of course my glass covers won't fit anymore
>(they were designed to accommodate the bow).
>
>In regards to the glass polishing *cough*, you will have to wait until I
>have water in, to conclusively comment on what poor a job I did, however I
>have developed a certain level of experience (notice I didn't say expertise)
>in this project, and without even seeing the results, I think my advice
>would be that if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, then forget
>about trying to smooth it out.
>
>Thanks for the link on the sandpaper, bookmarked.

I found a small scratch on the outside of my 75 gallon front glass. I
could barely see it, but could feel it with my fingernail. So, I
decided to smooth it out. Well, it is now larger and can be seen with
little effort. So, too rough a smoothing agent. I decided to try
with toothpaste. I rubbed and rubbed. Some progress, but I finally
gave in.

That was over 2 years ago, scratch still there, but my fear that it my
spread has not happened. I decided to leave well enough, alone.

dick

[jw 111]

"Dick" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 16:34:15 -0400, "NetMax"
> > wrote:
>
>>"Bill Hudson" > wrote in message
...
>>> NetMax wrote:
>>>> "Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>>>>
>>>>>>"kev" > wrote in message
. 4...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>On 27 Jul 2004, the world was enlightened by NetMax's opinion
>>>>
>>>> about...
>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I couldn't find any web sites describing the process (the
>>>>
>>>> Fitchfamily
>>>>
>>>>>>>>site is gone)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>This site Netmax?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>http://www.fitchfamily.com/glass.html
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>kev
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Everyone's answers have been very helpful. For whatever reason, the
>>>>>>fitchfamily link is now working for me again (thanks Kev), so I was
>>>>
>>>> able
>>>>
>>>>>>to speak with Rob Kulakofsky of http://www.facetingmachines.com/ .
>>>>
>>>> There
>>>>
>>>>>>aren't too many sources of cerium oxide (I didn't get to check
>>>>
>>>> Sophie's
>>>>
>>>>>>suggestion, but http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/superox.html does
>>>>>>carry it, thanks Charles). Cerium will not really remove scratches
>>>>
>>>> of
>>>>
>>>>>>any significance (it is a polisher), so Rob gave me some other
>>>>
>>>> directions
>>>>
>>>>>>to prepare the surface (I'm off to the hardware store to find a #2000
>>>>>>wet/dry silicone carbide paper). The other grinding compounds which
>>>>>>would work (ie: diamond dust) would be too expensive in my
>>>>
>>>> application
>>>>
>>>>>>(10 sq.ft.).
>>>>>>cheers & thanks again
>>>>>>--
>>>>>>www.NetMax.tk
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>2000 is way too rough, although you could use the cerium after using
>>>>
>>>> the
>>>>
>>>>>sandpaper. also, you'd need a LOT of sandpaper. it's much easier to use
>>>>>loose grit and a power tool, and you can get 2000-4000 grit. don't
>>>>
>>>> forget to
>>>>
>>>>>use water with any of these.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've been told that a #2000 sandpaper is equivalent to a #3000 in
>>>> diamond
>>>> dust. In any case, finding #2000 in discs is proving to be a problem.
>>>> There are still a few glass shops and auto-body shops to check out (if
>>>> something was too easy, then anybody could do it ;~)
>>>
>>>
>>> Well, they're not discs but...
>>> http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?cookietest=1&sku=9930
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bill Hudson
>>>
>>> The email address above is a spamtrap. My real address
>>> is hudsonwj at yahoo dot com
>>
>>Hmmm, you are replying on a post which is 2 years old. Is this indicative
>>of how fast you think I work? ;~). Actually I have finished my polishing
>>*cough* and I siliconed the glass back into the tank, but have not filled
>>it
>>with water yet. Ordinarily I get a significant bow over 5' so I was
>>thinking of adding a cross-brace and/or a stainless steel trim this time.
>>This will change the shape and of course my glass covers won't fit anymore
>>(they were designed to accommodate the bow).
>>
>>In regards to the glass polishing *cough*, you will have to wait until I
>>have water in, to conclusively comment on what poor a job I did, however I
>>have developed a certain level of experience (notice I didn't say
>>expertise)
>>in this project, and without even seeing the results, I think my advice
>>would be that if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, then
>>forget
>>about trying to smooth it out.
>>
>>Thanks for the link on the sandpaper, bookmarked.
>
> I found a small scratch on the outside of my 75 gallon front glass. I
> could barely see it, but could feel it with my fingernail. So, I
> decided to smooth it out. Well, it is now larger and can be seen with
> little effort. So, too rough a smoothing agent. I decided to try
> with toothpaste. I rubbed and rubbed. Some progress, but I finally
> gave in.
>
> That was over 2 years ago, scratch still there, but my fear that it my
> spread has not happened. I decided to leave well enough, alone.
>
> dick

many years ago i took a deep scratch out of a car windscreen using wet and
dry rubbing paper. the paper wears smooth so using the finest grade at the
end and letting it wear smooth you end up with a surface that can then be
polished up using T-Cut the paint cutting cream. if you use plenty of wet
and dry to cut well into the scratch you can quickly remove the scratch by
hand. no power tools or expensive grit needed. go for it.

[Gazoo0]

Go to your nearest Rock & Gem Shop where they sell Lapidary and Stone
polishing tools. They have rubber disks impregnated with grit going down to
very fine grades. They can be used on Dremel tools and the like. I once
blended a chip, on the edge of a tank using these. By polishing the sharp
edges clean, I reduced any possible notching effect.

Take Care
Ross