Activated carbon reactor

[Pszemol]

Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?

Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
forced through not around the bag...

I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...

How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?

[Wayne Sallee]

I've never been a big user of carbon, but at the
store, I used it a lot because you never know what
people are throwing in the tanks. I just used it in
the bag method, usually in a high flow area You can
leave it in a bag, and place it that way in your
reactor so that water is forced through it.
Panty-hose works real well in that it can be used to
conform to any spaces.

Wayne Sallee


Pszemol wrote on 9/15/2007 11:41 AM:
> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>
> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
> forced through not around the bag...
>
> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>
> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?

[TSJ]

On Sep 15, 10:55 am, Wayne Sallee > wrote:
> I've never been a big user of carbon, but at the
> store, I used it a lot because you never know what
> people are throwing in the tanks. I just used it in
> the bag method, usually in a high flow area You can
> leave it in a bag, and place it that way in your
> reactor so that water is forced through it.
> Panty-hose works real well in that it can be used to
> conform to any spaces.
>
> Wayne Sallee
>
>
> Pszemol wrote on 9/15/2007 11:41 AM:
>
>
>
> > Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
> > what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>
> > Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
> > water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
> > forced through not around the bag...
>
> > I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
> > reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
> > lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>
> > How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Why use carbon and remove beneficial stuff as well as junk. Carbon in
most cases is not needed, and a water change is more beneficial
overall.

[Pszemol]

"TSJ" > wrote in message ups.com...
> Why use carbon and remove beneficial stuff as well as junk. Carbon in
> most cases is not needed, and a water change is more beneficial
> overall.

I use carbon to remove discoloration.

What "beneficial stuff" carbon removes in your opinion?

[TSJ]

On Sep 15, 1:14 pm, "Pszemol" > wrote:
> "TSJ" > wrote in oglegroups.com...
> > Why use carbon and remove beneficial stuff as well as junk. Carbon in
> > most cases is not needed, and a water change is more beneficial
> > overall.
>
> I use carbon to remove discoloration.
>
> What "beneficial stuff" carbon removes in your opinion?

There is mixed ideas with AC./ Lots depends on the type or quality of
the AC as well, but it does do good at removing discoloratin and odor.
I believe and its also been proven that even the b est AC becomes
ineffective in a marine environment in short order, like 1 or two days
depending on disolved organic load...........and its also been proven
that AC also does a great job of removing rtoo much in the way of
biominerals and other useful materials as well, as the unwanted
disolved organics. However with the short life span in a marine
environment, I have my doubts if it will overly remove too much since
its proven it does not last long. Now if your changing out AC every
day or two then yes it can overdo the good with the bad....and yes
there is folks who are obsessed with changing out AC every day or
two.

I assume you do not have a protein skimmer. I personally prefer to
rely on my protein skimmer and water changes and use of RODI water.
Its been years since I even bought any AC. Just my observations.

[Pszemol]

"TSJ" > wrote in message ups.com...
> There is mixed ideas with AC./ Lots depends on the type or quality of
> the AC as well, but it does do good at removing discoloratin and odor.

Yes, it works very well at removing discoloation.
That is why I use it in my tank and see big difference
every time I change water...

If I do not use carbon, old water is yellow.
If I use carbon, old water is identical in color with fresh water.

Using carbon gives me water clarity and the best useage
of expensive lights over my tank. Yellowish colored water
filters out beneficial light waves and wastes light energy.

> I believe and its also been proven that even the b est AC becomes
> ineffective in a marine environment in short order, like 1 or two days
> depending on disolved organic load...........and its also been proven
> that AC also does a great job of removing rtoo much in the way of
> biominerals and other useful materials as well, as the unwanted
> disolved organics.

Can you name any of these beneficial biominerals whichs are
removed by the carbon?

Can you point me to the source where these two things are prooven?

> However with the short life span in a marine
> environment, I have my doubts if it will overly remove too much since
> its proven it does not last long. Now if your changing out AC every
> day or two then yes it can overdo the good with the bad....and yes
> there is folks who are obsessed with changing out AC every day or
> two.

I do not change carbon every day or two...
I kept it for the whole period between water changes.
This period varies with my lasyness from 3-4 weeks
to couple of months. Water stayed clear with carbon
even when carbon was there for months. This experience
tells me that carbon keeps working at removing discoloration
for weeks if not months.

> I assume you do not have a protein skimmer.

Yes, I use small skimmer but it does not prevent water discoloration.

> I personally prefer to
> rely on my protein skimmer and water changes and use of RODI water.
> Its been years since I even bought any AC. Just my observations.

Well, I am not going to tell you how to take care for your own tank,
but you can do one simple test for me during next water change.

Prepare two identical, empty, clean and white plastic buckets
(I use empty buckets from used up IO salt) and fill one with new,
freshly made sal****er. The second fill with water from your tank.
Then bring them close to each other and look down comparing
the water color. Tell me if your skimmer removed discoloration
as good as my carbon does... If the colors are IDENTICAL and
you cannot tell the difference which bucket contains fresh water
than I will agree with you that your skimmer works as good as carbon.
I am willing to bet that you will see the difference... it was obvious to me.

[TSJ]

On Sep 15, 2:27 pm, "Pszemol" > wrote:
> "TSJ" > wrote in oglegroups.com...
> > There is mixed ideas with AC./ Lots depends on the type or quality of
> > the AC as well, but it does do good at removing discoloratin and odor.
>
> Yes, it works very well at removing discoloation.
> That is why I use it in my tank and see big difference
> every time I change water...
>
> If I do not use carbon, old water is yellow.
> If I use carbon, old water is identical in color with fresh water.
>
> Using carbon gives me water clarity and the best useage
> of expensive lights over my tank. Yellowish colored water
> filters out beneficial light waves and wastes light energy.
>
> > I believe and its also been proven that even the b est AC becomes
> > ineffective in a marine environment in short order, like 1 or two days
> > depending on disolved organic load...........and its also been proven
> > that AC also does a great job of removing rtoo much in the way of
> > biominerals and other useful materials as well, as the unwanted
> > disolved organics.
>
> Can you name any of these beneficial biominerals whichs are
> removed by the carbon?
>
> Can you point me to the source where these two things are prooven?
>
> > However with the short life span in a marine
> > environment, I have my doubts if it will overly remove too much since
> > its proven it does not last long. Now if your changing out AC every
> > day or two then yes it can overdo the good with the bad....and yes
> > there is folks who are obsessed with changing out AC every day or
> > two.
>
> I do not change carbon every day or two...
> I kept it for the whole period between water changes.
> This period varies with my lasyness from 3-4 weeks
> to couple of months. Water stayed clear with carbon
> even when carbon was there for months. This experience
> tells me that carbon keeps working at removing discoloration
> for weeks if not months.
>
> > I assume you do not have a protein skimmer.
>
> Yes, I use small skimmer but it does not prevent water discoloration.
>
> > I personally prefer to
> > rely on my protein skimmer and water changes and use of RODI water.
> > Its been years since I even bought any AC. Just my observations.
>
> Well, I am not going to tell you how to take care for your own tank,
> but you can do one simple test for me during next water change.
>
> Prepare two identical, empty, clean and white plastic buckets
> (I use empty buckets from used up IO salt) and fill one with new,
> freshly made sal****er. The second fill with water from your tank.
> Then bring them close to each other and look down comparing
> the water color. Tell me if your skimmer removed discoloration
> as good as my carbon does... If the colors are IDENTICAL and
> you cannot tell the difference which bucket contains fresh water
> than I will agree with you that your skimmer works as good as carbon.
> I am willing to bet that you will see the difference... it was obvious to me.

The tanks I run skimmers on have very little if any at all
discoloration, but I do know what your talking about as its evident
when I change water on my unskimmed tanks. I run my skimmers on the
extreme dry side..and that tends to remove more organic material than
a wet skim, so I hear. As for where I got my info its all stuff I read
and heard of on various online websites and forums. At the one MACNA
Bob Fenner also stated the same basic stuff I posted earlier in
regards to carbon use. As to what minerals etc it removes, I guess it
can actually remove most any mineral since that what AC
does...........never really checked what it removes in regards to bio
minerals. I would have to think a lot depend so how much of a load is
on yur system as well as to how much proteins or doc is created and
needs to be removed..

[charlie]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "TSJ" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
>> There is mixed ideas with AC./ Lots depends on the type or quality of
>> the AC as well, but it does do good at removing discoloratin and odor.
>
> Yes, it works very well at removing discoloation.
> That is why I use it in my tank and see big difference
> every time I change water...
>
> If I do not use carbon, old water is yellow.
> If I use carbon, old water is identical in color with fresh water.
>
> Using carbon gives me water clarity and the best useage
> of expensive lights over my tank. Yellowish colored water
> filters out beneficial light waves and wastes light energy.
>
>> I believe and its also been proven that even the b est AC becomes
>> ineffective in a marine environment in short order, like 1 or two days
>> depending on disolved organic load...........and its also been proven
>> that AC also does a great job of removing rtoo much in the way of
>> biominerals and other useful materials as well, as the unwanted
>> disolved organics.
>
> Can you name any of these beneficial biominerals whichs are
> removed by the carbon?
>
> Can you point me to the source where these two things are prooven?
>
>> However with the short life span in a marine
>> environment, I have my doubts if it will overly remove too much since
>> its proven it does not last long. Now if your changing out AC every
>> day or two then yes it can overdo the good with the bad....and yes
>> there is folks who are obsessed with changing out AC every day or
>> two.
>
> I do not change carbon every day or two...
> I kept it for the whole period between water changes.
> This period varies with my lasyness from 3-4 weeks
> to couple of months. Water stayed clear with carbon
> even when carbon was there for months. This experience
> tells me that carbon keeps working at removing discoloration
> for weeks if not months.

the pores of activated carbon tend to clog up, stopping the absorbtion. it
depends upon what you're absorbing and how much is there.

i have an oceanclear filter and put a bag in the middle of the pleated
filter. i've also used a very fine nylon door screen in between layers of
carbon and other filtering material to contain it.

regards,
charlie

[Pszemol]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>
> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
> forced through not around the bag...
>
> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>
> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?

Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
will work efficiently there...
The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)

[TSJ]

On Sep 17, 12:58 pm, "Pszemol" > wrote:
> "Pszemol" > wrote in ...
> > Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
> > what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>
> > Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
> > water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
> > forced through not around the bag...
>
> > I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
> > reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
> > lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>
> > How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
>
> Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
> into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
> fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
> water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
> will work efficiently there...
> The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
> with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
> to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
> Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)

Well it is a known fact that discoloration in the water will affect
the PAR rating. I also know that judicial use of a skimmer, helps but
it does not remove all and does not remove some things that AC
removes, but AC does remove iodine, which is needed. Fortunately
Iodine is easy to replenish in most cases just by typical foods that
fokls feed......I have heard that yellowish cast water can reduce PAR
by as much as 1/2 in some cases. Skimmers are more effective if run
wet, but in my case I prefer to run them on the dry side, and reduce
daily chores of cup emptying.

As charlie stated, AC can and does become clogged, and can get clogged
very quickly, and then it becomes exactly what a reef tank is not
looking for, a nitrate factory. Its aperfect place to propagate
nitrogen from.all that trapped fopod and proteins etc, good oxy....its
a given..nitrate producer then. Then you have the spectrum chanmge
when water contains nitrates..........odds are you'll never notice it
in water, or have anything to measure it, but nitrates in water also
affect proper spectrum and PAR as well.even if water appears to be
free of discoloration. So right off use of carbon can induce nitrate
into the tank, it can strip minerals and compounds like iodine and
strontium, it can also leech phospate intot he water as phosporic acid
is used toprocess and wash activated charcoal..so fokls that do not
worry about rinsing charcoal can very well be adding phosphates into
the tank unknowlingly. Over time it is possible to get to levels that
create algae problems especially if yuur charcoal is being replaced on
a fairly short and consistent time frame..while your trying to reduce
induciton of nitrate from clogged carbon media.

I know I have good water on all of my tanks, and little to no
discoloration and have never had a need to run carbon. Only real time
I have ever use dit was when I used Saliferts Flat worm
killer.........but then I found a "new prooduct" to erradicate
flatworms and it also does a number on Bristle worms, unfortunately,
and did not use charcoal since and my tanks have been just fine. (LFS
here is real bad with corals they sell, as they have flatworm
problems...........but that is a hole other topic)

Do you have a PAR meter? It would be interesting to get some numbers,
along with nitrate and phosophate readings, and compile it into a
graph type chart and see what effects one obtains with weekly vrs
monthly carbon changes and no carbon vrs carbon plus skim and no skim
etc etc.........Makes me wish I now pickedup that PAR meter at the
yard sale the other month.

[Pszemol]

"TSJ" > wrote in message ups.com...
> Do you have a PAR meter? It would be interesting to get some numbers,
> along with nitrate and phosophate readings, and compile it into a
> graph type chart and see what effects one obtains with weekly vrs
> monthly carbon changes and no carbon vrs carbon plus skim and no skim
> etc etc.........Makes me wish I now pickedup that PAR meter at the
> yard sale the other month.

No, I do not have PAR meter.
And I do not have problem with nitrates, rather with too low nitrates.
My DSB is running with undetectable nitrates for a long time now.

[Pszemol]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
>> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
>> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>>
>> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
>> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
>> forced through not around the bag...
>>
>> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
>> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
>> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>>
>> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
>
> Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
> into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
> fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
> water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
> will work efficiently there...
> The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
> with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
> to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
> Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)

This is the stupidest idea ever :-)

I tested it and it caused carbon in the sock to turn
into a microparticles (crushed) and passed through
the sock coloring my water and covering everything
with black dust... Do not try it at home :-)))

[Tynk[_2_]]

On Oct 4, 3:29?pm, "Pszemol" > wrote:
> "Pszemol" > wrote in ...
> > "Pszemol" > wrote in ...
> >> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
> >> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>
> >> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
> >> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
> >> forced through not around the bag...
>
> >> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
> >> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
> >> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>
> >> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
>
> > Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
> > into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
> > fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
> > water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
> > will work efficiently there...
> > The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
> > with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
> > to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
> > Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)
>
> This is the stupidest idea ever :-)
>
> I tested it and it caused carbon in the sock to turn
> into a microparticles (crushed) and passed through
> the sock coloring my water and covering everything
> with black dust... Do not try it at home :-)))

My husband suggested placing the carbon
in a condom. That way the dust does not
seep into the water.

[TSJ]

On Oct 7, 10:36 am, Tynk > wrote:
> On Oct 4, 3:29?pm, "Pszemol" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Pszemol" > wrote in ...
> > > "Pszemol" > wrote in ...
> > >> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
> > >> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>
> > >> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
> > >> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
> > >> forced through not around the bag...
>
> > >> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
> > >> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
> > >> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>
> > >> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
>
> > > Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
> > > into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
> > > fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
> > > water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
> > > will work efficiently there...
> > > The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
> > > with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
> > > to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
> > > Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)
>
> > This is the stupidest idea ever :-)
>
> > I tested it and it caused carbon in the sock to turn
> > into a microparticles (crushed) and passed through
> > the sock coloring my water and covering everything
> > with black dust... Do not try it at home :-)))
>
> My husband suggested placing the carbon
> in a condom. That way the dust does not
> seep into the water.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Talk about a stupid idea. Placing carbon in a
condom................duh............it would be basically out of play
and do not good.May as well leave the carbon in a zip lock baggie.

[Dick]

On Mon, 8 Oct 2007 01:20:31 -0500, "Jeffrey St. Clair, Ph.D."
> wrote:

>These days, carbon is pretty much recommended only to remove meds from
>water. The cons outwiegh the pros, such as it doesn't filter microbes,
>nitrates, sodium or flouride. It also lowers dissolved oxygen levels
>significantly and also filters out needed elements, such as trace elements.
>
>"Tynk" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>> On Oct 4, 3:29?pm, "Pszemol" > wrote:
>>> "Pszemol" > wrote in
>>> ...
>>> > "Pszemol" > wrote in
>>> > ...
>>> >> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
>>> >> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>>>
>>> >> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
>>> >> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
>>> >> forced through not around the bag...
>>>
>>> >> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
>>> >> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
>>> >> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>>>
>>> >> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
>>>
>>> > Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
>>> > into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
>>> > fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
>>> > water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
>>> > will work efficiently there...
>>> > The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
>>> > with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
>>> > to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
>>> > Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)
>>>
>>> This is the stupidest idea ever :-)
>>>
>>> I tested it and it caused carbon in the sock to turn
>>> into a microparticles (crushed) and passed through
>>> the sock coloring my water and covering everything
>>> with black dust... Do not try it at home :-)))
>>
>> My husband suggested placing the carbon
>> in a condom. That way the dust does not
>> seep into the water.
>>
>
I have 5 tanks: 10 to 75 gal. I quit using carbon years ago except
with the prefilled frames. I see no change.

I have also gone from 20% water changes twice a week to 20% every few
months, determined by filter overflow and water debris.

My tanks all have heavy plant growth.

[KurtG]

Pszemol wrote:
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
> ...
>> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Other than hanging a bag filled with carbon in the sump,
>>> what do you use to make carbon work more efficiently?
>>>
>>> Tha idea with a bag works, but in my understanding
>>> water would penetrate carbon better if it was flowing
>>> forced through not around the bag...
>>>
>>> I was trying to put a layer of carbon in the phosphate
>>> reactor, but carbon is very light and it is easily
>>> lifted up with water and travels back to my tank...
>>>
>>> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
>>
>> Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
>> into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
>> fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
>> water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
>> will work efficiently there...
>> The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
>> with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
>> to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.
>> Sounds like a good idea - have to test it :-)
>
> This is the stupidest idea ever :-)
>
> I tested it and it caused carbon in the sock to turn
> into a microparticles (crushed) and passed through
> the sock coloring my water and covering everything with black dust... Do
> not try it at home :-)))


I use carbon in my phosphate reactor, but I put some floss on top of the
carbon to keep it from moving. I've also learned to run the filter in
some RO/DI water first to make sure there is no loose dust ready to go
into the tank. It seems that some carbon has problems and some do not.

I can't imagine using it in a filter sock as you discovered.

--Kurt

[Pszemol]

"KurtG" > wrote in message ...
> I can't imagine using it in a filter sock as you discovered.

Looks like I will pay penalty for experimenting... :-(
Not all animals are doing good with this black dust on them.
Some probably ingested these particles with water... sad thing.

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Dick" > wrote in message
...
>>
> I have 5 tanks: 10 to 75 gal. I quit using carbon years ago except
> with the prefilled frames. I see no change.
==================
I also quit using it years ago. I do keep some on hand but there are cobwebs
on the box. :-D
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[[email protected]]

the secret to great fish health. Ingrid

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 08:10:47 -0500, Dick > wrote:
>My tanks all have heavy plant growth.

[Pszemol]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
> "KurtG" > wrote in message ...
>> I can't imagine using it in a filter sock as you discovered.
>
> Looks like I will pay penalty for experimenting... :-(
> Not all animals are doing good with this black dust on them.
> Some probably ingested these particles with water... sad thing.

Well, the anemone, my pride, looks like it is spliting.

It started gaping couple of days ago and I noticed that
the bottom of its foot is visible through mouth opening.
The foot had small hole going through his body to the
substrate. Anemone continues to eat normally and stays
inflated with bubbles on the tips of the tentacles -healthy
look. Except this hole in his mouth :-) Fish were interesting
for couple of days in his guts accessible by gaping mouth...
I saw male and female clown picking on the guts.

Today afternoon I noticed the anemone slightly moved from
his usual position to the left, little smaller, and the gaping
of the mouth is quite dramatic now - about 2" diameter.
You could see base rock naked through his mouth whole
afternoon.

Now, just after midnight I see with the flashlight that
anemone is already not full circle - it is in shape of letter C.
One part is draging one direction than the rest of anemone.

Anemone stays inflated with bubbles on its tentacles tips
sporting healthy look during the whole process.

There were two major differences in the tank environment
which could be assumed a cause for splitting:

1. Change of intensity of lights new power compacts tubes
replaced over year old ones with brightly visible change.

2. Accident with the activated carbon dust...

I am not happy even if the anemone survives this event
and I will have two of them :-) I would preffered one
big anemone than two small ones in my tank. Especially that
the part of it is already moving in the unknown direction...

Will see what happens next :-(

[Pszemol]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
> Well, the anemone, my pride, looks like it is spliting.
>
> It started gaping couple of days ago and I noticed that
> the bottom of its foot is visible through mouth opening.
> The foot had small hole going through his body to the
> substrate. Anemone continues to eat normally and stays
> inflated with bubbles on the tips of the tentacles -healthy
> look. Except this hole in his mouth :-) Fish were interesting
> for couple of days in his guts accessible by gaping mouth...
> I saw male and female clown picking on the guts.
>
> Today afternoon I noticed the anemone slightly moved from
> his usual position to the left, little smaller, and the gaping
> of the mouth is quite dramatic now - about 2" diameter.
> You could see base rock naked through his mouth whole
> afternoon.
>
> Now, just after midnight I see with the flashlight that
> anemone is already not full circle - it is in shape of letter C.
> One part is draging one direction than the rest of anemone.
>
> Anemone stays inflated with bubbles on its tentacles tips
> sporting healthy look during the whole process.
>
> There were two major differences in the tank environment
> which could be assumed a cause for splitting:
>
> 1. Change of intensity of lights new power compacts tubes
> replaced over year old ones with brightly visible change.
>
> 2. Accident with the activated carbon dust...
>
> I am not happy even if the anemone survives this event
> and I will have two of them :-) I would preffered one
> big anemone than two small ones in my tank. Especially that
> the part of it is already moving in the unknown direction...
>
> Will see what happens next :-(

This morning there are two inflated anemones - one bigger
in the old place, looks like a big letter C, second one
on a different rock about 1/3 smaller than the "parent".
Oh well...

[Don Geddis]

"Pszemol" > wrote on Thu, 11 Oct 2007:
> This morning there are two inflated anemones - one bigger in the old place,
> looks like a big letter C, second one on a different rock about 1/3 smaller
> than the "parent". Oh well...

Photos?

__________________________________________________ _____________________________
Don Geddis http://reef.geddis.org/
Wanted, Dead or Alive: Schrodinger's Cat.

[Pszemol]

"Don Geddis" > wrote in message ...
> "Pszemol" > wrote on Thu, 11 Oct 2007:
>> This morning there are two inflated anemones - one bigger in the old place,
>> looks like a big letter C, second one on a different rock about 1/3 smaller
>> than the "parent". Oh well...
>
> Photos?

Sure... why not? Enjoy!

These photos were made yesterday evening around 9pm:
http://i24.tinypic.com/24v5kys.jpg
http://i24.tinypic.com/x3i9n4.jpg
http://i22.tinypic.com/mvi876.jpg
http://i24.tinypic.com/j9386f.jpg
http://i23.tinypic.com/nt89d.jpg

These were made around midnight when the anemone ring
was opened and become big letter C:
http://i23.tinypic.com/abqzd1.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/2cduyok.jpg
http://i23.tinypic.com/e99bbq.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/wsqsrm.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/2nsca2w.jpg
http://i24.tinypic.com/2pqmlc4.jpg

And these two a moment ago, small anemone is on the
left lower rock, not touching the overflow pilar at all:
http://i24.tinypic.com/67uufp.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/2ui7xno.jpg

Here are some pictures of the other anemone, 'rose' variety
mentioned in our other discussion. This one was in other,
10 gallon pico reef with two baby maroon clownfish I have
risen myself from eggs lied by the maroon pair in the main tank.

Pre injury pictures, beautiful specimen under power compacts:
http://i24.tinypic.com/1zx8nme.jpg
http://i24.tinypic.com/im077l.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/t7d82r.jpg
http://i23.tinypic.com/sl06yv.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/21omrnd.jpg
Here is the same anemone weeks after the tragic accident with
the power filter intake tube (AquaClear Mini) in the same tank
after it traveled on the other side of the tank, behind the rock,
next to the hiden behind the rock intake tube of the filter (removed).
http://i23.tinypic.com/vmvclj.jpg
http://i21.tinypic.com/4jn9kh.jpg
You can see almost whole oral disk was lacerated, only
one tentacle was left from the old oral disk - rest is regrown.
Anemone is still recovering and has a long road before it
will look as good as it looked before injury but it is already
fully healed inflating/deflating and eating normally.

[RubenD]

How many gallons is your tank/sump?

Or should I ask, how many tanks do you have?

Just curious =)

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "Don Geddis" > wrote in message
...
> > "Pszemol" > wrote on Thu, 11 Oct 2007:
> >> This morning there are two inflated anemones - one bigger in the old
place,
> >> looks like a big letter C, second one on a different rock about 1/3
smaller
> >> than the "parent". Oh well...
> >
> > Photos?
>
> Sure... why not? Enjoy!
>
> These photos were made yesterday evening around 9pm:
> http://i24.tinypic.com/24v5kys.jpg
> http://i24.tinypic.com/x3i9n4.jpg
> http://i22.tinypic.com/mvi876.jpg
> http://i24.tinypic.com/j9386f.jpg
> http://i23.tinypic.com/nt89d.jpg
>
> These were made around midnight when the anemone ring
> was opened and become big letter C:
> http://i23.tinypic.com/abqzd1.jpg
> http://i20.tinypic.com/2cduyok.jpg
> http://i23.tinypic.com/e99bbq.jpg
> http://i20.tinypic.com/wsqsrm.jpg
> http://i20.tinypic.com/2nsca2w.jpg
> http://i24.tinypic.com/2pqmlc4.jpg
>
> And these two a moment ago, small anemone is on the
> left lower rock, not touching the overflow pilar at all:
> http://i24.tinypic.com/67uufp.jpg
> http://i20.tinypic.com/2ui7xno.jpg
>
> Here are some pictures of the other anemone, 'rose' variety
> mentioned in our other discussion. This one was in other,
> 10 gallon pico reef with two baby maroon clownfish I have
> risen myself from eggs lied by the maroon pair in the main tank.
>
> Pre injury pictures, beautiful specimen under power compacts:
> http://i24.tinypic.com/1zx8nme.jpg
> http://i24.tinypic.com/im077l.jpg
> http://i20.tinypic.com/t7d82r.jpg
> http://i23.tinypic.com/sl06yv.jpg
> http://i20.tinypic.com/21omrnd.jpg
> Here is the same anemone weeks after the tragic accident with
> the power filter intake tube (AquaClear Mini) in the same tank
> after it traveled on the other side of the tank, behind the rock,
> next to the hiden behind the rock intake tube of the filter (removed).
> http://i23.tinypic.com/vmvclj.jpg
> http://i21.tinypic.com/4jn9kh.jpg
> You can see almost whole oral disk was lacerated, only
> one tentacle was left from the old oral disk - rest is regrown.
> Anemone is still recovering and has a long road before it
> will look as good as it looked before injury but it is already
> fully healed inflating/deflating and eating normally.

[Pszemol]

"RubenD" > wrote in message t...
> How many gallons is your tank/sump?
>
> Or should I ask, how many tanks do you have?
>
> Just curious =)

Not many gallons, really.
The brown anemone is in 58 gallons Oceanic + 10g sump.
The poor rose one is in 10 gallons pico reef.
There are two other tanks but they are more
utilitary than pretty...

[Ded Objekts In Veevoh]

On Oct 7, 9:36 am, someone wrote or was quoted in writing:
> > >> How do you put carbon to work in your reef tanks?
> > > Now I have an idea... what if I dump the carbon loose
> > > into the sock in the sump? The sock I am using is quite
> > > fine to prevent carbon escaping to the sump and the
> > > water is pretty well agitated in the sock so the carbon
> > > will work efficiently there...
> > > The sock lasts about a week or two before it clogs
> > > with dirt, so I could dump the sock with used up carbon
> > > to the garbagge and put new sock with new carbon portion.

Activated charcoal isn't my cup of tea, but that's because I'm
interested in supporting Daphnia and Moss.
I still hav charcoal on hand in case a fish comes down with something.
Then, I'd want to remove medication, right? Because all of my fish
would get the medication.

This plan with the sock makes sense to me if it's more
suitable or as suitable as the usual nylon that you can buy charcoal
in. With potted or rooted plants, I wouldn't worry about the trace
minerals being lost from the water. Those should be in the silt.

Someone might think I'm kidding about the Moss, but I hav a
Plecostomus, and it gets algae thins. I'm not sure that it will like
the substrate for moss that I'm sewing.

Trolls aren't people. They're off-topic posts with crummy langgwij
outbursts. Sometimes, they're sock puppets of seemingly normal people.
I hate it when they raise identity issues, because I know a lot about
dijital identity, and I believe it's mechanically sound.

So, the question is, would you phone someone, say someone at a pet
shop, with the same idea. And, if you did, would you ignore their
criticism and do it anyway.
_______
<a href="http://ecn.ab.ca/~brewhaha/">Brewjay's Babble Bin</a>