Trying Java fern

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

Now that I'm using rainwater mixed with my liquid rocks from the tap, I
picked up 2 really nice Java Ferns. I used rubber bands to secure them to
large lava rocks. I have the water down to PH 7.2 - 7.4 now. I have to
check the hardness again. No more fish died and the store replaced 6 of the
neons. All are thriving. My tap water is only fit for African Cichlids.
:-(
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Tynk[_4_]]

On Dec 19, 6:49 pm, "Reel McKoi" > wrote:
> Now that I'm using rainwater mixed with my liquid rocks from the tap, I
> picked up 2 really nice Java Ferns. I used rubber bands to secure them to
> large lava rocks. I have the water down to PH 7.2 - 7.4 now. I have to
> check the hardness again. No more fish died and the store replaced 6 of the
> neons. All are thriving. My tap water is only fit for African Cichlids.
> :-(
> --
>
> RM....
> Zone 6. Middle TN USA
> ~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

Regular cotton thread works good and by the time the roots attach the
threads will be or be close to being rotted away........Attaching to
submerged substrate like dirift wood or rocks etc is the best way to
go with Java Fern..........run some peat in that hob filter and help
it get the ph down, and turn it into a south american cichlid tank
with neons etc.............I find those south american tanks to be
much nicer than a african tank as the fish are much more compatible
with each other that is available out there to buy.............and not
much other than old mbuna etc can be put with them or other typical
african cichlids.........I also like the look of tea colored water in
a south american tank......and drift wood can do this as well as
adding peat.........in addition to bringing down PH.

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...
Regular cotton thread works good and by the time the roots attach the
threads will be or be close to being rotted away........Attaching to
submerged substrate like dirift wood or rocks etc is the best way to
go with Java Fern..........run some peat in that hob filter and help
it get the ph down, and turn it into a south american cichlid tank
with neons etc.............I find those south american tanks to be
much nicer than a african tank as the fish are much more compatible
with each other that is available out there to buy.............and not
much other than old mbuna etc can be put with them or other typical
african cichlids.........I also like the look of tea colored water in
a south american tank......and drift wood can do this as well as
adding peat.........in addition to bringing down PH.
=============================================
The "mostly tetra tank" is already full. :-) The water is a bit tea
colored from the leaves that fall into these 30g rain tubs under the eves.
The fish are thriving now. What a difference! The bettas are even more
active and colorful. I don't have any cichlids at all. The one tank is
manly tetras with a some groumies and 3 clowns, a few otos, a rubbermouth
and a clown pleco. This second 55g only has a few platys, a few otos and
the rubbermouth pleco. I'm in no hurry to add to it. I may make it a live
bearer tank if I can find some decent mollies. I like swords but they're too
aggressive and they jump like crazy.

I'm having a real problem with that damn black algae again and have no idea
why. I'm using that Flourish-Excel that was recommended on the plant group
last year and it's useless. The poster there swore algae can't live in a
tank with FE. That is total crapola! Algae thrives with FE, both green and
the black type.
--

RM....
Frugal ponding since 1995.
rec.ponder since late 1996.
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Tynk[_5_]]

On Dec 20, 3:35 pm, "Reel McKoi" > wrote:
> "Tynk" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> Regular cotton thread works good and by the time the roots attach the
> threads will be or be close to being rotted away........Attaching to
> submerged substrate like dirift wood or rocks etc is the best way to
> go with Java Fern..........run some peat in that hob filter and help
> it get the ph down, and turn it into a south american cichlid tank
> with neons etc.............I find those south american tanks to be
> much nicer than a african tank as the fish are much more compatible
> with each other that is available out there to buy.............and not
> much other than old mbuna etc can be put with them or other typical
> african cichlids.........I also like the look of tea colored water in
> a south american tank......and drift wood can do this as well as
> adding peat.........in addition to bringing down PH.
> =============================================
> The "mostly tetra tank" is already full. :-) The water is a bit tea
> colored from the leaves that fall into these 30g rain tubs under the eves.
> The fish are thriving now. What a difference! The bettas are even more
> active and colorful. I don't have any cichlids at all. The one tank is
> manly tetras with a some groumies and 3 clowns, a few otos, a rubbermouth
> and a clown pleco. This second 55g only has a few platys, a few otos and
> the rubbermouth pleco. I'm in no hurry to add to it. I may make it a live
> bearer tank if I can find some decent mollies. I like swords but they're too
> aggressive and they jump like crazy.
>
> I'm having a real problem with that damn black algae again and have no idea
> why. I'm using that Flourish-Excel that was recommended on the plant group
> last year and it's useless. The poster there swore algae can't live in a
> tank with FE. That is total crapola! Algae thrives with FE, both green and
> the black type.
> --
>
> RM....
> Frugal ponding since 1995.
> rec.ponder since late 1996.
> Zone 6. Middle TN USA
> ~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

I beat the black algae when I had it one time by changing my bulbs
out. Florescent tubes loose correct color temps and they shift the
color spectrum after they get so old. Have you tried changing out your
bulbs. I found if I change mine about every 18 to 24 months or so, I
do not get black algae and I do not add any FE to my tanks.......I add
very little of any kind of fertilizer and everything does just
great..........The only plants the black algae would grow on was my
amazon swords or any that resembled swords........I have my lights on
approx 9 1/2 hours at most.......works for me. Also the correct
bulbs make a big difference. I use 6700K or 7200K bulbs for all my
freshwater tanks.I toss out the bulbs normally supplied with tank
light fixtures etc as they leave a lot to be desired and are ok, if
you do not have plants, but suck when it comes to live plants, which
all of my tanks have..............I never had good results with the so
called plant bulbs or gro-lux bulbs either........hanging over the
wifes violets they are fine, but sucked when it came to aquarium
plants.

I do have one tank that I run a 10K bulb in and thats because I have a
madagascar dwarf lilly and a nice Helvola miniature lily in that tank
so that 10 k bulb is on at 9am and off at 6pm....but there is a 6500K
bulb that is on before (on at 9am during and after (off at approx 7pm)
the 10K bulb is on. The 10 k is just about a must have for the water
lillys if you want them to bloom indoors..........if your satisfied
with just leaves then the lower specturm bulbs (6500 and 7200) are
just fine.......Right now I have 5 blooms on my Helvola (which is a
miniature yellow/chrome plant) zand its nice to have it bloom most all
year round indoors in a fish tank.......

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...

I beat the black algae when I had it one time by changing my bulbs
out. Florescent tubes loose correct color temps and they shift the
color spectrum after they get so old. Have you tried changing out your
bulbs.

* Yep! In fact all 4 reflectors have new bulbs. Cools and warm whites.

I found if I change mine about every 18 to 24 months or so, I
do not get black algae and I do not add any FE to my tanks.......I add
very little of any kind of fertilizer and everything does just
great..........

* I have to use a fertilizer or the plants lose color (go chlorotic) and
start to fail. Even with aquarium plant fertilizer the vals are starting to
fail.

The only plants the black algae would grow on was my
amazon swords or any that resembled swords........I have my lights on
approx 9 1/2 hours at most.......works for me. Also the correct
bulbs make a big difference. I use 6700K or 7200K bulbs for all my
freshwater tanks.

* I didn't check mine. I Just picked some cool white and warm white. Lights
are on 10 to 12 hrs a day. There are 4 40w bulbs per 55g tank. I tried less
and couldn't keep any plants alive but floating hornwart. The water is at
78F. These are regular shop lights, not aquarium fixtures.

I toss out the bulbs normally supplied with tank
light fixtures etc as they leave a lot to be desired and are ok, if
you do not have plants, but suck when it comes to live plants, which
all of my tanks have..............I never had good results with the so
called plant bulbs or gro-lux bulbs either........hanging over the
wifes violets they are fine, but sucked when it came to aquarium
plants.

I do have one tank that I run a 10K bulb in and thats because I have a
madagascar dwarf lilly and a nice Helvola miniature lily in that tank
so that 10 k bulb is on at 9am and off at 6pm....but there is a 6500K
bulb that is on before (on at 9am during and after (off at approx 7pm)
the 10K bulb is on. The 10 k is just about a must have for the water
lillys if you want them to bloom indoors..........if your satisfied
with just leaves then the lower specturm bulbs (6500 and 7200) are
just fine.......Right now I have 5 blooms on my Helvola (which is a
miniature yellow/chrome plant) zand its nice to have it bloom most all
year round indoors in a fish tank.......

* I have three of them (minis) in the tanks out back. The intense heat this
summer didn't do my lilies much good. They didn't bloom as well as they
usually do. My tanks just sport the usual common aquarium plants.
--

RM....
..
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Tynk[_4_]]

On Dec 20, 6:24 pm, "Reel McKoi" > wrote:
> "Tynk" > wrote in message
snip>
> * Yep! In fact all 4 reflectors have new bulbs. Cools and warm whites.
>
snip
> * I didn't check mine. I Just picked some cool white and warm white. Lights
> are on 10 to 12 hrs a day. There are 4 40w bulbs per 55g tank. I tried less
> and couldn't keep any plants alive but floating hornwart. The water is at
> 78F. These are regular shop lights, not aquarium fixtures.
>snip

BUT...........what kelvin is the cool and warm bulbs you bought? Are
they run of the mill bulbs commonly found in Lowes or Wally World for
use in household / shop light fixtures?
Check into bulbs that are rated for plants in an aquarium like those
from URI or Coralife..........buy your bulbs according to Kelvin
rating not warm or cool or sunlight..........I bet you find out there
is a difference in the bulbs over the common florescent bulbs you can
buy in big box stores etc. Proper light can also playb a part on them
not getting yellow as plants do a certain amount of photo-synthesis,
and proper specturm of light means a lot......all plants are not
critical but there are some that require lighting within the mwave
length that they are commonly found at for them to thrive and do
right. You can get the proper 7200K etc bulbs in all the lenghts any
other florescent bulb is available in from 10" to 96 inches in
length..........even in a sal****er setup lights is the key player
when it comes to having algae blooms.....the other main player is
water that contains too much nitrate or phosphates, which is usually
more beneficial to a FW than a SW setup though......than it is a reef
tank..

[Tynk[_4_]]

RM
You do know that light green plants usually always require more
intense lighting and kelvin temp rating that is closer to natural sun
than dark green plants, right? You can pretty well get by on standard
supplied bulbs in a aquarium hood with most dark green plants. The
light green plants will definately go poor with improper lights.

[Tynk[_4_]]

I would not be afraid to bet, with proper kelvin ratings on the bulbs
you could get by with two or even one bulb @ 40Watts each on a 55 gal
tank without a problem..provided they are not too far off the surface
of the water. For proper light dispersal, the reflectors really need
to be polished metal (alum or stainless).......If I was a gambling
individual, I would bet your lights are your main problem in regards
to plant growth.

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...
> On Dec 20, 6:24 pm, "Reel McKoi" > wrote:
>> * I didn't check mine. I Just picked some cool white and warm white.
>> Lights
>> are on 10 to 12 hrs a day. There are 4 40w bulbs per 55g tank. I tried
>> less
>> and couldn't keep any plants alive but floating hornwart. The water is at
>> 78F. These are regular shop lights, not aquarium fixtures.
>>snip

> BUT...........what kelvin is the cool and warm bulbs you bought?

What does Kelvin mean? Where would I find that information?

Are
> they run of the mill bulbs commonly found in Lowes or Wally World for
> use in household / shop light fixtures?

Yes. I got them at Wally World.

> Check into bulbs that are rated for plants in an aquarium like those
> from URI or Coralife..........buy your bulbs according to Kelvin
> rating not warm or cool or sunlight..........

Kelvin rating? What rating should they be when there are four 40w bulbs
over a 55g tank? Where is the rating found and does it go by a different
name?

I bet you find out there
> is a difference in the bulbs over the common florescent bulbs you can
> buy in big box stores etc. Proper light can also playb a part on them
> not getting yellow as plants do a certain amount of photo-synthesis,
> and proper specturm of light means a lot......all plants are not
> critical but there are some that require lighting within the mwave
> length that they are commonly found at for them to thrive and do
> right. You can get the proper 7200K etc bulbs in all the lenghts any
> other florescent bulb is available in from 10" to 96 inches in
> length.........

Do you mean the "light output" when you say Kelvin? I already threw away
the packaging these new bulbs came in.

..even in a sal****er setup lights is the key player
> when it comes to having algae blooms.....the other main player is
> water that contains too much nitrate or phosphates, which is usually
> more beneficial to a FW than a SW setup though......than it is a reef
> tank..
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...
> RM
> You do know that light green plants usually always require more
> intense lighting and kelvin temp rating that is closer to natural sun
> than dark green plants, right? You can pretty well get by on standard
> supplied bulbs in a aquarium hood with most dark green plants. The
> light green plants will definately go poor with improper lights.
===============================
When I buy plants here they're always about the same color - a medium green.
I think all the chains get them from the same supplier.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...
>I would not be afraid to bet, with proper kelvin ratings on the bulbs
> you could get by with two or even one bulb @ 40Watts each on a 55 gal
> tank without a problem..provided they are not too far off the surface
> of the water. For proper light dispersal, the reflectors really need
> to be polished metal (alum or stainless).......If I was a gambling
> individual, I would bet your lights are your main problem in regards
> to plant growth.
==============================
What do you recommend then? I know nothing about lighting. I've always just
used the regular bulbs from Lowe's, WW ect. They're usually a few bucks
each and I replace them maybe every 18 months to 2 years. I really should
write the dates on them. Light Output ranges from 2000 to 6500.
--

RM....
Frugal ponding since 1995.
rec.ponder since late 1996.
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Larry Blanchard]

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:24:14 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:

> I found if I change mine about every 18 to 24 months or so, I
> do not get black algae and I do not add any FE to my tanks.......I add
> very little of any kind of fertilizer and everything does just
> great..........
>
> * I have to use a fertilizer or the plants lose color (go chlorotic) and
> start to fail. Even with aquarium plant fertilizer the vals are starting to
> fail.

Are you using fertilizer tablets or a liquid? I bury one of the tablets
under each plant as I plant it. Seems to last at least a year and by then
I'm ready to re-landscape :-).

The reason I ask is that I read somewhere that the buried tablets don't
encourage algae as much as the liquid fertilizers do.

[Larry Blanchard]

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:23:39 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:

> What does Kelvin mean? Where would I find that information?

Most of the better bulbs will have it listed on them as, for example,
"6500K" where the K stands for Kelvin. BTW, 6500K seems to work for me.

[Tynk[_4_]]

On Dec 20, 11:04*pm, Larry Blanchard > wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:24:14 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:
> > I found if I change mine about every 18 to 24 months or so, I
> > do not get black algae and I do not add any FE to my tanks.......I add
> > very little of any kind of fertilizer and everything does just
> > great..........
>
> > * I have to use a fertilizer or the plants lose color (go chlorotic) and
> > start to fail. Even with aquarium plant fertilizer the vals are starting to
> > fail.
>
> Are you using fertilizer tablets or a liquid? *I bury one of the tablets
> under each plant as I plant it. *Seems to last at least a year and by then
> I'm ready to re-landscape :-).
>
> The reason I ask is that I read somewhere that the buried tablets don't
> encourage algae as much as the liquid fertilizers do.

Exactly.............bury or push the tablet in under the plants as you
plant them and the feertilizer lasts a lot long and does not lead to
algae growth.......I use pieces of regular ppond plant tablets on
occassion but most times I go without any additional fertilizer.
Pushing the fertilizer in under the substrate and plant puts more of
it for use by the plant instead of free floating around the tank in
liquid or dissolved form for algae to use.

[Tynk[_4_]]

On Dec 20, 9:29*pm, "Reel McKoi" > wrote:
> "Tynk" > wrote in message
>
> ...>I would not be afraid to bet, with proper kelvin ratings on the bulbs
> > you could get by with two or even one bulb *@ 40Watts each on a 55 gal
> > tank without a problem..provided they are not too far off the surface
> > of the water. For proper light dispersal, the reflectors really need
> > to be polished metal (alum or stainless).......If I was a gambling
> > individual, I would bet your lights are your main problem in regards
> > to plant growth.
>
> ==============================
> What do you recommend then? *I know nothing about lighting. I've always just
> used the regular bulbs from Lowe's, WW ect. *They're usually a few bucks
> each and I replace them maybe every 18 months to 2 years. *I really should
> write the dates on them. *Light Output ranges from 2000 to 6500.
> --
>
> RM....
> Frugal ponding since 1995.
> rec.ponder since late 1996.
> Zone 6. *Middle TN USA
> ~~~~ *}<((((*> *~~~ * }<{{{{(ö>

If those are the bulbs your using its no wonder your having black
alage troubles..............YOu can expect to pay much more for a
proper bulb than the general run of the mill florescent bulbs form WW
or Lowes etc. Things is those bulbs may be sufficient most times to
provide light for plants that are not submerged, but aquarium plants
are submerged. NOw to us in viewing the tank the water may appear
clean and clear, but its not really..........and it does not take much
distance under the water to eat up what specturm of light is available
and produce poor results. Those big box store bulbs just do not have
the proper spectrum to provide plants with what they need.........(gro
lux included) The vast majority of bulbs that come with aquariums and
hoods etc are geared at being trhe cheapest available and only suited
for minimal plant at most growth but mainly aimed at enabling the
person to see their fish, and fish do not really require any specific
light specturm to grow and thrive.its for human benefit that the tanks
are illuminated........

Lighting can get confusing in lots of cases and just using a piece of
egg crate over the top of a fish tank to prevent fish from jumping out
can also distort and cause light to spill "outside" the tank and not
inside where its needed, but the human eye does not really see it that
way as were looking at general illumination and brightness we actually
see.........even though its light outside the tank where it does not
do any good at all. Believe it or not, egg crate grill which is
commonly used for aquarium tank tops has a proper side to put down and
as much as 65% of the light can be wasted if its not placed properly.
Take a bucket, a plain white clean plastic bucket or other container.
(has to be white) and fill it with water out of the
tap.....................and then take a container of whater from the
fish tank............notice how the tanks water is discolored or a
pale yellow or off color, but its not clear like fresh tap water is?
Well thats caused by dissolved organics and proteins. That
discoloration alone can influenece how much light actually penetrates
to the plants deeper down in the tank, and were looking at an average
of 16+ inches on an average 29 gal or greater sized
tank............................so by traveling down that distance in
discolored water your getting very very little of any benefits of the
light, but what light your getting is ample and of the correct wave
length to grow black alage and other things...........such as dark
green plants...........So on top of dissolved junk discoloring the
water your water is tea colored from leaves etc it only compounds gthe
problems. The plants need to utilize light waves inthe red and yuellow
catagory and these colors are lost early on in the water column.
Plants use yellow and red spectrums for photosynthesis.and common shop
light bulbs just do not have the proper phosphors needed to generate
those colors especially at depths......I know you have heard the watts
per gal rule.but thats really a crock of crap............and not
worth playing with............it really has no merit. Using that rule
you would have sufficeint wattage, but its not wattage alone that is
needed, besides your actual color spectrums are not reaching the
plants for them to benefit.

Be prepared to pay much more than a few bucks a bulb for a 40 watt
bulb thats correct for underwater plants.

[Tynk[_4_]]

On Dec 20, 11:06*pm, Larry Blanchard > wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:23:39 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:
> > What does Kelvin mean? Where would I find that information?
>
> Most of the better bulbs will have it listed on them as, for example,
> "6500K" where the K stands for Kelvin. *BTW, 6500K seems to work for me.

65ooK may work in lots of appications especially if none of the
p[lants are light demanding, and water depth is not
excessive.......but its all together possible that one may have to
also include higher kelvin rating as well...7500K or even a 10K as its
all dependant on water clarity, depth, amount of plants, water
parameters in so myuch as nutrients available, and quanity of lights
and how high lights are off the top of the tanks..............Usually
one can get by without 10K in most FW tanks, as 10K washes out a loot
of colors and may also cause plants to be just as poor as too little
of light. In a SW tank critters placed under too bright of light will
actually melt or bleach out.........and FW is no different except they
usually bleach out or fail to grow and thrive......and algae is kick
started............Only real method is use a PAR meter, but since PAR
meters are not cheap, about all one can do is experiment.........and
let the shop bulbs for household use not in an aquarium unless its a
fish only tank with plastic plants.

RM.......go to Big ALs and read about the various light bulbs in the
discriptions...........or go to Drs Foster and Smith as they also have
a few articles on what bulbs to use for what..........its just minor
info they give but may give you more ideas overall. The sal****er
world gets more into lighting than FW folks seem to, but the same
principals apply..........

[Tynk[_4_]]

> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:23:39 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:
> > What does Kelvin mean? Where would I find that information?

Kelvin "K" is the term used to describe what "color" temperature a
bulb radiates.............nothing to do with farenheit or celsius
temperatures. .................Odds are your monitor has a temperature
adjustment on its controls...........or it may be called color
correctness control.............your TV also has it..............and
to make things right with lots of plants and halt headaches from algae
its necessary to have the correct color temps from the
lights...........the descriptions "Warm Sun, Cool", etc may work ok
for shop lights and womens makeup colors in general but are too varied
and loose to be applied to aquarium lighting in general if one is
intent to properly keep live plants of various species without algae
and other hassles........but like I said be prepared to spend much
more than a couple of bucks per bulb.........and your gonna have to
spend it every 18 or so months since the wave length or color
specturms shift...........after use.

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...

<Brevity snip of good information>

Be prepared to pay much more than a few bucks a bulb for a 40 watt
bulb thats correct for underwater plants.
==================================
What bulbs do you recommend? These are 55g tanks about 20" high, about 18"
from the gravel to water surface. The plants are the usual mix of vals,
crypts, water wisteria, ruby hygrophila, Java moss and fern, ludwigia etc.
I'll see if I can find them locally if you give me a brand name etc. And how
many bulbs per tank do you recommend? It seems the tanks are too dark with
only two 40w bulbs per tank.
--

RM....

Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Larry Blanchard" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:23:39 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:
>
>> What does Kelvin mean? Where would I find that information?
>
> Most of the better bulbs will have it listed on them as, for example,
> "6500K" where the K stands for Kelvin. BTW, 6500K seems to work for me.
======================================
All I see is the wattage, length and "output." Is the output and Kelvin the
same thing? I can get bulbs with an output from 2000 to 6500. As I recall
the packages said Output 2200 etc.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Tynk" > wrote in message
...
RM.......go to Big ALs and read about the various light bulbs in the
discriptions...........or go to Drs Foster and Smith as they also have
a few articles on what bulbs to use for what..........its just minor
info they give but may give you more ideas overall. The sal****er
world gets more into lighting than FW folks seem to, but the same
principals apply..........
===========================
Will do. The last time I tried to find the best bulbs I ended up more
confused than when I started.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }<((((*> ~~~ }<{{{{(ö>

[Reel McKoi[_10_]]

"Larry Blanchard" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:24:14 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:
>
>> I found if I change mine about every 18 to 24 months or so, I
>> do not get black algae and I do not add any FE to my tanks.......I add
>> very little of any kind of fertilizer and everything does just
>> great..........
>>
>> * I have to use a fertilizer or the plants lose color (go chlorotic) and
>> start to fail. Even with aquarium plant fertilizer the vals are starting
>> to
>> fail.
>
> Are you using fertilizer tablets or a liquid?

I have and use both. I also use Flourish Excel but it's expensive and
worthless. The algae loves it.

I bury one of the tablets
> under each plant as I plant it. Seems to last at least a year and by then
> I'm ready to re-landscape :-).

I'm using the Tetra tabs and see no difference in vals. The crypts and last
surviving Sword are responding to the tabs but the algae are suffocating
them. The otos, clown plecos and rubberlipped pleco aren't eating the
algae. If they are they're not making a dent in it.

> The reason I ask is that I read somewhere that the buried tablets don't
> encourage algae as much as the liquid fertilizers do.

The liquids aren't supposed to stimulate algae since they don't contain
nitrogen and phosphate. It was suggested I do a few major water changes and
vacuum the gravel thoroughly... the problem continued unabated.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
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