Algea Destroyer

['nutherBob]

I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and once a
week water changes, once a month complete water change and "scrub". I have
a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying or treatment will
hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.

'nutherBob

[Paulo]

Are you changing all the water once a month?

--
Paulo
"'nutherBob" > wrote in message
m...
> I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and once
a
> week water changes, once a month complete water change and "scrub". I
have
> a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying or treatment will
> hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.
>
> 'nutherBob
>
>

[battlelance]

On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 22:23:23 -0500, "Paulo" > wrote:

>Are you changing all the water once a month?

Even if he was, what does that have to do with alge?

He'll want to check his water supply for phosphates and see where
that stands. Next, post the tank water quality (nitrates, etc.) and
lastly, how long and how much light is there on the tank.

[Keith J.]

Most "algae destroyer" brands contain either cyanide, copper, or arsenic.
Yes, all of these are toxic to fish too.


"'nutherBob" > wrote in message
m...
> I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and once
a
> week water changes, once a month complete water change and "scrub". I
have
> a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying or treatment will
> hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.
>
> 'nutherBob
>
>

[Akom]

Since the others already pointed out that algae destroying chemicals are
most likely a bad idea, I should add that I also had the same problem in
my 55g Malawi tank (and not the other community tank with very similar ...
everything), and my most effective measure to date has been getting a
rhino pl*co... he can't be more than 3" in length but he seems to be able
to eat infinite amounts! He just does not stop. He cleaned up a thick
coat of algae mixed with fungus in under a month since I got him.

I also have a queen arabesque but he doesn't seem to come out during the
day at all and his effectiveness seems to be lower, despite him being
larger (5")

I guess what I'm saying is, different pl*cos - different results.



On Wed, 25 Feb 2004 03:20:07 +0000, 'nutherBob wrote:

> I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and
> once a week water changes, once a month complete water change and
> "scrub". I have a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying
> or treatment will hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.
>
> 'nutherBob

[Mephistopheles]

"'nutherBob" > wrote in
m:

> I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully
> and once a week water changes, once a month complete water
> change and "scrub". I have a plecky, and I was wondering using
> a algea destroying or treatment will hurt the pleco in my
> cichlid tank.
>
> 'nutherBob
>
>

The active ingredient in almost all anti-algae chemicals is the
herbicide simazine. However, this only controls certain types of
algae and has also been shown to stunt the growth of the young of
certain species of fish. Do a Google search for simazine if you
want more information. I tried it once, and do not recommend it.

As others have suggested, it is also generally not recommended to do
a "complete water change". Partial water changes are recommended to
prevent shocking the fish by making too abrupt of a change to their
water conditions.

Bristlenose plecos are most often recommended for algae control in
rift lake cichlid tanks. You might try one of those if you have
some other species.

Regards,
Meph

[Keith J.]

CORRECTION to my previous post ...

1. most SNAIL killing chemicals contain copper, arsenic, or cyanide.
2. most ALGAE killing chemicals contain herbicides, which are also toxic to
fish.

Same results if you use too much though, nearly everything in the tank dies.

I recommend you use strong chemicals like these only as a last resort, and
only if you are sure you know what you are doing.


"Keith J." > wrote in
message ...
> Most "algae destroyer" brands contain either cyanide, copper, or arsenic.
> Yes, all of these are toxic to fish too.
>
<snip>

[Bubba Joel]

I would suggest that you buy a UV inline sterilizer. Relatively inexpensive
and will destroy algae and parasites and bad bacteria and keep your tank
clean.



"'nutherBob" > wrote in message
m...
> I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and once
a
> week water changes, once a month complete water change and "scrub". I
have
> a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying or treatment will
> hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.
>
> 'nutherBob
>
>

[battlelance]

On Sun, 29 Feb 2004 22:43:52 GMT, "Bubba Joel"
> wrote:

>I would suggest that you buy a UV inline sterilizer. Relatively inexpensive
>and will destroy algae and parasites and bad bacteria and keep your tank
>clean.

I'd really love to know where you find these "inexpensive" UV
sterilizers, because the cheapest I've found was around $200 CDN - and
compared to a bottle of Alge Destroyer, that aint cheap.

[Dave Millman]

Bubba Joel wrote:

> I would suggest that you buy a UV inline sterilizer. Relatively inexpensive
> and will destroy algae and parasites and bad bacteria and keep your tank
> clean.

UV filters kill floating things, most notably green water algae and lots of
parasites that have a free-floating stage.

They don't do squat for the algae on the original poster's glass, since that's
not passing through the UV filter.

'nutherBob, if you are not growing plants in your cichlid tank, consider using
less light or light for a shorter period every day. 1 watt of flourescent light
per gallon won't encourage algae.

Some plecos are algae eaters (ancistrus in particular). Some are omnivors or
carnivors. Find out what kind you have, and what it wants to eat.

['nutherBob]

Thanks Dave, sorry I haven't been around to answer all the advice, I was put
in the hospital to raise money for a common purpose -- the hospital... go
figure...

The pleco is definitely an algae eater, I think he would eat right through
the glass. However, strange thing, I have no live plants, I've washed the
gravel, and have 1 - 10 watt flourescent bulb in the hood in the 10 gallon
tank.

I'll try another change today and keep the lights for viewing only since the
tank is in a naturally well lit area anyway.

I'll get back with you great folks as to my progress.

'nutherBob
Down with needles!!

"Dave Millman" > wrote in message
...
> Bubba Joel wrote:
>
> > I would suggest that you buy a UV inline sterilizer. Relatively
inexpensive
> > and will destroy algae and parasites and bad bacteria and keep your tank
> > clean.
>
> UV filters kill floating things, most notably green water algae and lots
of
> parasites that have a free-floating stage.
>
> They don't do squat for the algae on the original poster's glass, since
that's
> not passing through the UV filter.
>
> 'nutherBob, if you are not growing plants in your cichlid tank, consider
using
> less light or light for a shorter period every day. 1 watt of flourescent
light
> per gallon won't encourage algae.
>
> Some plecos are algae eaters (ancistrus in particular). Some are omnivors
or
> carnivors. Find out what kind you have, and what it wants to eat.
>

[Mark Stone]

"'nutherBob" > wrote in message >...
> I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and once a
> week water changes, once a month complete water change and "scrub". I have
> a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying or treatment will
> hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.
>
> 'nutherBob

Here's an algae solution that was suggested by Axelrod in the 1950s
that I've had the opportunity to use a couple of times: Arrange your
airstones to be in one end of the aquarium, to help with oxygenation
by rotating the water. Then turn off the lights and cover the aquarium
with a dark blanket for three or four days. Without light, the algae
dies. This process causes the algae to give off a lot of carbon
dioxide, hence the airstone placement. In my experience, this has
always worked, and hasn't harmed any of the fish. It's OK to lift the
blanket from time to time for feedings.

Axelrod actually suggests taping dark paper to the walls of the tank,
but I think the blanket is much easier.

After you kill off the algae, you need to investigate why you have the
problem in the first place. It could be lights left on too long; the
aquarium could be too close to a sunny window; you may need to
increase the frequency of partials to lower nitrate.

--Mark


Mark Stone tractorlegs at msn dot kom
OSCAR Lovers! http://www.geocities.com/cichlidiot_2000/oscar.html
The ".Edu" meens i are smart.

[battlelance]

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 14:36:59 GMT, "'nutherBob" >
wrote:


>I'll try another change today and keep the lights for viewing only since the
>tank is in a naturally well lit area anyway.

That's your problem right there. Natural light will make alge bloom
like there's no tomorrow.

I have a 80 gal and have had an alge bloom problem -forever-. Turns
out that at about 2:00 PM, the sun shines on the basement window,
through the vertical blinds, and lights up one corner of my tank. I
covered that area with a few pieces of blue backerboard, and presto,
perfectly clear water - and I leave my 30W & 25W flourescent tubes on
for 7 hrs a day.

[shanefosster]

Active ingredient in almost all anti-algae chemicals herbicide simazine. However, this is some type of control algae, has also been shown stunt the growth of young certain types of fish. Do a Google search for simazine, if you for more information. I tried again, not recommended.

[nelssoncraigg]

The alive additive in about all anti-algae chemicals is the herbicide simazine. However, this alone controls assertive types of algae and has as well been apparent to achievement the advance of the adolescent of certain breed of fish. Do a Google seek for simazine if you want added information.