Re: Cloudy water after water change

[Poe Lim]

Don't change the water and clean the filter at the same time; you are
re-starting the cycling process. Ideally only change half the filter media
at a time, so that some bio-bugs remain. Have seen the same thing happen
when I changed the water AND cleaned all the filter media; what happaned was
power got turned off to the canister filter for over 24 hours, so all bugs
probably dead, so had to kill off what's left, and changed some water to get
rid of N build-up in the tank.

Cheers,
Poe

"Victor M. Martinez" > wrote in message
...

> I've been meaning to post here about the cloudiness that sets on my large
> tank after I make water changes and fertilize the plants. The small tank
> doesn't get it, just the big one. Yesterday I changed about 30% of the
> water and fertilized with Fluorish, Fluorish Iron, Fluorish Excel, plus I
> added some Freshwater Trace. Like clockwork, the water started turning
> cloudy about an hour after the water change. This morning it's cloudy, but
> it should start clearing this afternoon. I also cleaned the filter
> (Eheim), rinsing all the media in it.

[Victor M. Martinez]

Poe Lim > wrote:
>Don't change the water and clean the filter at the same time; you are
>re-starting the cycling process. Ideally only change half the filter media

Says who? That's not true if you are using a canister filter with biomedia
that is handled properly. I don't change *any* biomedia.
Like I said before, the water parameters were/are perfect (no ammonia, no
nitrite), which is a sure sign the biofilter is workign properly.

--
Victor M. Martinez

http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv

[Poe Lim]

"Victor M. Martinez" > wrote in message
...
> Poe Lim > wrote:

> >Don't change the water and clean the filter at the same time; you are
> >re-starting the cycling process. Ideally only change half the filter
media
>
> Says who? That's not true if you are using a canister filter with biomedia
> that is handled properly. I don't change *any* biomedia.
> Like I said before, the water parameters were/are perfect (no ammonia, no
> nitrite), which is a sure sign the biofilter is workign properly.

The cloudy water is a sign you have free floating bacteria (assuming it's a
white cloudy appearance) that are multiplying because it has more food
(ammonia & nitirites), because those in your canister is no longer able to
handle the full load. As I said, I have seen that when I did a large water
change and disinfected the (dead) media. The bio-media isn't the only place
the bugs colonise; they also live in the sponges, filter floss etc, and
perhaps in your case the balance is quite fine (as you said, only in the big
tank).

I also wonder what the reaction of Prime is like (I gather that's what you
use); is there sufficient time for the ammonia released to latched onto by
the free floating biobugs, and in the time immediately after the water
change, the system is overloaded. Does anyone know if the ammonia released
from the breakdown of chloramines, although converted to a non-harmful form
for fish, is still availalble o the bugs and plants?

I have to say though the chemical reaction theory is also plausible as your
water is very alkaline.

How do you feel about experimenting, and just changing one parameter at a
time, and see what causes the problem? <G>

Cheers,
Poe

[Racf]

"Victor M. Martinez" > wrote in message
...
> Poe Lim > wrote:
> >handle the full load. As I said, I have seen that when I did a large
water
> >change and disinfected the (dead) media. The bio-media isn't the only
place
>
> What makes you think I disinfected anything? I don't wash my biomedia.
Ever.
>
> >change, the system is overloaded. Does anyone know if the ammonia
released
> >from the breakdown of chloramines, although converted to a
non-harmful form
> >for fish, is still availalble o the bugs and plants?
>
> All water conditioners, including Prime, that neutralize chloramines
also take
> care of the clorine and the ammonia released.
>
> >I have to say though the chemical reaction theory is also plausible
as your
> >water is very alkaline.
>
> My tank water is not alkaline, but the tap water is.



How is this possible/being done?



>
> >How do you feel about experimenting, and just changing one parameter
at a
> >time, and see what causes the problem? <G>
>
> I'll try that. If only I remembered to fertilize weekly instead of
monthly.
> But my plants grow like weeds already, I don't want them to grow any
more. ;)
>
>
> --
> Victor M. Martinez
>
> http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv
>

[Victor M. Martinez]

Racf > wrote:
>> My tank water is not alkaline, but the tap water is.
>
>How is this possible/being done?

Normal metabolic processes in the tank reduce the pH of the water. I think
the alkalinit of the tap water is at least in part produced by CO2, so it's
easily removed by the plants.
The water pH usually hovers around 6.8-7.0, while the tap water is around
9.

--
Victor M. Martinez

http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv

[JR]

>All water conditioners, including Prime, that neutralize chloramines also
take
>care of the clorine and the ammonia released

Last week I read a post on another group. ie a guy changed water
had major death like 95% of things in tank, he threw out the old
bottle of conditioner and used a new bottle then things worked
as advertized. Might be a consideration.



JR,