(almost) free plants

[LeighMo]

Continental U.S. only, you play shipping (priority mail). Paypal only, because
I want to mail them out this Saturday. Tanks are choked, because I was in
Hawaii for two weeks, visiting the 'rents for the holidays. I trimmed the
tanks back almost bald before I left, but still, the fish can hardly move now.
:-P

They are mostly fast-growing stem plants best suited for a tank with at least 2
wpg. Hygrophila, Limnophila, water sprite, hornwort, and lots more. Great for
someone who's starting out a new tank using Chuck's method
(http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_newtank.htm).

E-mail me privately if interested (mind the spamguard).

(And Bob, if you're still interested, let me know. I'd have e-mailed you, but
I lost your addy in a filing cabinet crash.)

Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[-=Almazick=-]

I might buy the plants from you but I sure need your advice again. I don't
know what to do now but I'm thinking to start from a scratch. Can you
please ID my algae. It looks like Hair or Brush Red Aglae. When it is
almost dead it turns to red color and dissappears.
http://s93457593.onlinehome.us/Algae.htm If I start from a scratch what is
the chance I will get that algae again? It takes over my plants and slowly
kills them one by one. How can I remove nitrates besides water change to
keep it under 10ppm? I started adding Algae destroyer (very very small
dosage) but it doesn't help.




"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...
> Continental U.S. only, you play shipping (priority mail). Paypal only,
because
> I want to mail them out this Saturday. Tanks are choked, because I was in
> Hawaii for two weeks, visiting the 'rents for the holidays. I trimmed the
> tanks back almost bald before I left, but still, the fish can hardly move
now.
> :-P
>
> They are mostly fast-growing stem plants best suited for a tank with at
least 2
> wpg. Hygrophila, Limnophila, water sprite, hornwort, and lots more.
Great for
> someone who's starting out a new tank using Chuck's method
> (http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_newtank.htm).
>
> E-mail me privately if interested (mind the spamguard).
>
> (And Bob, if you're still interested, let me know. I'd have e-mailed you,
but
> I lost your addy in a filing cabinet crash.)
>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[LeighMo]

>I might buy the plants from you but I sure need your advice again. I don't
>know what to do now but I'm thinking to start from a scratch. Can you
>please ID my algae. It looks like Hair or Brush Red Aglae.

Yup, that's what it is. I had that algae briefly, when I first set up my first
real planted tank.

>How can I remove nitrates besides water change to
>keep it under 10ppm?

If your plants grow well, they will remove nitrate. In fact, you may have to
add nitrate to your tank.

Have you seen Chuck's article on algae?

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm

He claims that a common cause of this problem is not enough nitrate! I think
that was why I had it. I put compact flourescent lights over my tank and a ton
of plants in it, and nitrates dropped to zero in days. Probably for the first
time in years. Being new at the time, I had no idea that could be a problem.

Try searching this newsgroup (at Google) on BBA, and you'll find a lot of
discussion on it. Pay no attention to those calling it Satanic. <g> It's
algae, uglier and tougher than most, but still just algae. SAEs eat it, which
is why planted tank folk like them so much. I think they prefer the tender new
growth, though, rather than the tough old stuff, so if your tank is heavily
infested, pruning leaves that are covered with algae will help, even if you
have SAEs.

I wouldn't start over. You need to learn to keep the tank in balance, or
you'll just the have same problem, with this or some other algae. You can cut
off infested leaves, which will help your tank look better right away. To fix
the problem in the long term, consider getting some true SAEs if you don't have
any, and adjust your nutrients. And if you got rid of a lot of stem plants,
well, maybe you got rid of too many, and need to add some back. :-)

I don't restrict nutrients to try to control algae. Not even phosphate. I
have a ton of phosphate in my tap water (40 ppm!). It hasn't caused algae
problems for me. As long as I don't let nitrate drop to zero in my tanks, I
don't have any algae problems.

Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[-=Almazick=-]

My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates always
stay 20-40ppm. I tried almost everything but nothing helps. I just can't
find the cause of the problem. By the way which one is it? Brush-Red or
Hair algae? What would you do in my shoes besides buying a true SAE. I
know how to balance the tank but nothing works :( I suspect the gravel is
bad. Algae keeps infecting my plants because of gravel. I believe, once I
start over I will destroy current algae so it won't grow back. I'm just a
little bit confused now because to start over will take me about a month to
do a cycle and cleaning everything in 70G tank. The funny thing is I tried
a few experiments by putting some plants in dark place for two weeks in a
bowl of water but algae isn't afraid of dark :) My lights stay up for 10
hours a day, I feed once a day, I do water change once a week about 20%,
etc. About 2 month ago I cut all my infected plants and everything was
perfect and a little later it started again.





"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...
> >I might buy the plants from you but I sure need your advice again. I
don't
> >know what to do now but I'm thinking to start from a scratch. Can you
> >please ID my algae. It looks like Hair or Brush Red Aglae.
>
> Yup, that's what it is. I had that algae briefly, when I first set up my
first
> real planted tank.
>
> >How can I remove nitrates besides water change to
> >keep it under 10ppm?
>
> If your plants grow well, they will remove nitrate. In fact, you may have
to
> add nitrate to your tank.
>
> Have you seen Chuck's article on algae?
>
> http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm
>
> He claims that a common cause of this problem is not enough nitrate! I
think
> that was why I had it. I put compact flourescent lights over my tank and
a ton
> of plants in it, and nitrates dropped to zero in days. Probably for the
first
> time in years. Being new at the time, I had no idea that could be a
problem.
>
> Try searching this newsgroup (at Google) on BBA, and you'll find a lot of
> discussion on it. Pay no attention to those calling it Satanic. <g>
It's
> algae, uglier and tougher than most, but still just algae. SAEs eat it,
which
> is why planted tank folk like them so much. I think they prefer the
tender new
> growth, though, rather than the tough old stuff, so if your tank is
heavily
> infested, pruning leaves that are covered with algae will help, even if
you
> have SAEs.
>
> I wouldn't start over. You need to learn to keep the tank in balance, or
> you'll just the have same problem, with this or some other algae. You can
cut
> off infested leaves, which will help your tank look better right away. To
fix
> the problem in the long term, consider getting some true SAEs if you don't
have
> any, and adjust your nutrients. And if you got rid of a lot of stem
plants,
> well, maybe you got rid of too many, and need to add some back. :-)
>
> I don't restrict nutrients to try to control algae. Not even phosphate.
I
> have a ton of phosphate in my tap water (40 ppm!). It hasn't caused algae
> problems for me. As long as I don't let nitrate drop to zero in my tanks,
I
> don't have any algae problems.
>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[N. Wise]

>My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates always
>stay 20-40ppm. I tried almost everything but nothing helps. I just can't
>find the cause of the problem. By the way which one is it? Brush-Red or
>Hair algae? What would you do in my shoes besides buying a true SAE. I
>know how to balance the tank but nothing works :( I suspect the gravel is
>bad. Algae keeps infecting my plants because of gravel. I believe, once I
>start over I will destroy current algae so it won't grow back. I'm just a
>little bit confused now because to start over will take me about a month to
>do a cycle and cleaning everything in 70G tank. The funny thing is I tried
>a few experiments by putting some plants in dark place for two weeks in a
>bowl of water but algae isn't afraid of dark :) My lights stay up for 10
>hours a day, I feed once a day, I do water change once a week about 20%,
>etc. About 2 month ago I cut all my infected plants and everything was
>perfect and a little later it started again.

You can start over all you want. You are still going to have algae problems.
Only when you listen to people on this newsgroup and start getting your
nutrients in balance are you going to have a tank that controls algae.

If your nitrates are not zero, then there is something else. What are the
measurements of your phosphate, iron and CO2 levels? Are you dosing potassium?
how much?

How do you think your gravel is causing algae? Gravel has nothing to do with
nutrients except in its role as a home for denitrifying bacteria.

N. Wise
http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[Luca Brazi]

"-=Almazick=-" > wrote in message news:<OrsLb.4117$8H.18427@attbi_s03>...
> My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates always
> stay 20-40ppm. I tried almost everything but nothing helps. I just can't
> find the cause of the problem. By the way which one is it? Brush-Red or
> Hair algae? What would you do in my shoes besides buying a true SAE. I
> know how to balance the tank but nothing works :( I suspect the gravel is
> bad. Algae keeps infecting my plants because of gravel. I believe, once I
> start over I will destroy current algae so it won't grow back. I'm just a
> little bit confused now because to start over will take me about a month to
> do a cycle and cleaning everything in 70G tank. The funny thing is I tried
> a few experiments by putting some plants in dark place for two weeks in a
> bowl of water but algae isn't afraid of dark :) My lights stay up for 10
> hours a day, I feed once a day, I do water change once a week about 20%,
> etc. About 2 month ago I cut all my infected plants and everything was
> perfect and a little later it started again.
>
>
>
>
>
> "LeighMo" > wrote in message
> ...
> > >I might buy the plants from you but I sure need your advice again. I
> don't
> > >know what to do now but I'm thinking to start from a scratch. Can you
> > >please ID my algae. It looks like Hair or Brush Red Aglae.
> >
> > Yup, that's what it is. I had that algae briefly, when I first set up my
> first
> > real planted tank.
> >
> > >How can I remove nitrates besides water change to
> > >keep it under 10ppm?
> >
> > If your plants grow well, they will remove nitrate. In fact, you may have
> to
> > add nitrate to your tank.
> >
> > Have you seen Chuck's article on algae?
> >
> > http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm
> >
> > He claims that a common cause of this problem is not enough nitrate! I
> think
> > that was why I had it. I put compact flourescent lights over my tank and
> a ton
> > of plants in it, and nitrates dropped to zero in days. Probably for the
> first
> > time in years. Being new at the time, I had no idea that could be a
> problem.
> >
> > Try searching this newsgroup (at Google) on BBA, and you'll find a lot of
> > discussion on it. Pay no attention to those calling it Satanic. <g>
> It's
> > algae, uglier and tougher than most, but still just algae. SAEs eat it,
> which
> > is why planted tank folk like them so much. I think they prefer the
> tender new
> > growth, though, rather than the tough old stuff, so if your tank is
> heavily
> > infested, pruning leaves that are covered with algae will help, even if
> you
> > have SAEs.
> >
> > I wouldn't start over. You need to learn to keep the tank in balance, or
> > you'll just the have same problem, with this or some other algae. You can
> cut
> > off infested leaves, which will help your tank look better right away. To
> fix
> > the problem in the long term, consider getting some true SAEs if you don't
> have
> > any, and adjust your nutrients. And if you got rid of a lot of stem
> plants,
> > well, maybe you got rid of too many, and need to add some back. :-)
> >
> > I don't restrict nutrients to try to control algae. Not even phosphate.
> I
> > have a ton of phosphate in my tap water (40 ppm!). It hasn't caused algae
> > problems for me. As long as I don't let nitrate drop to zero in my tanks,
> I
> > don't have any algae problems.
> >
> > Leigh
> >
> > http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Unfortunately, the *only* thing I had luck with in beating this algae
is SAEs--once it was established, I couldn't eradicate it by tweaking
nutrients or manual removal. While the SAEs were working (quickly I
might add), I used a UV unit in the assumption it would kill floating
spores and limit the spread. Whether it did or not isn't clear to me,
but it's something that might help.

[-=Almazick=-]

My nitrate level is around 20-40ppm, Co2 around 15ppm and I have no idea
about phosphate, potassium and iron level but I do add a little of bit
everything by using Seachem products and Leaf Zone. I can see a little bit
of brush algae on the top of my gravel and I assume it infects all my
plants. From what I read brush algae will grow as long as it is in the tank
and there is no way to kill it unless you get rid of it first to make sure
there are no algae pores in the tank and then as long as you balance the
tank you won't get brush algae again.








"N. Wise" > wrote in message
...
> >My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates
always
> >stay 20-40ppm. I tried almost everything but nothing helps. I just
can't
> >find the cause of the problem. By the way which one is it? Brush-Red or
> >Hair algae? What would you do in my shoes besides buying a true SAE. I
> >know how to balance the tank but nothing works :( I suspect the gravel
is
> >bad. Algae keeps infecting my plants because of gravel. I believe, once
I
> >start over I will destroy current algae so it won't grow back. I'm just
a
> >little bit confused now because to start over will take me about a month
to
> >do a cycle and cleaning everything in 70G tank. The funny thing is I
tried
> >a few experiments by putting some plants in dark place for two weeks in a
> >bowl of water but algae isn't afraid of dark :) My lights stay up for 10
> >hours a day, I feed once a day, I do water change once a week about 20%,
> >etc. About 2 month ago I cut all my infected plants and everything was
> >perfect and a little later it started again.
>
> You can start over all you want. You are still going to have algae
problems.
> Only when you listen to people on this newsgroup and start getting your
> nutrients in balance are you going to have a tank that controls algae.
>
> If your nitrates are not zero, then there is something else. What are the
> measurements of your phosphate, iron and CO2 levels? Are you dosing
potassium?
> how much?
>
> How do you think your gravel is causing algae? Gravel has nothing to do
with
> nutrients except in its role as a home for denitrifying bacteria.
>
> N. Wise
> http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[Empty]

(LeighMo) wrote in
:

> Try searching this newsgroup (at Google) on BBA, and you'll find a lot
> of discussion on it. Pay no attention to those calling it Satanic.
> <g> It's algae, uglier and tougher than most, but still just algae.
> SAEs eat it, which is why planted tank folk like them so much. I
> think they prefer the tender new growth, though, rather than the tough
> old stuff, so if your tank is heavily infested, pruning leaves that
> are covered with algae will help, even if you have SAEs.

Amano shrimp are far less picky, and will eat it with gusto all day.

~Empty

--
'You're not friends. You'll never be friends. You'll be in love till it
kills you both. You'll fight, and you'll shag, and you'll hate each other
till it makes you quiver, but you'll never be friends. Love isn't brains,
children, it's blood... blood screaming inside you to work its will. I may
be love's bitch, but at least I'm man enough to admit it.'
Spike

[Empty]

"-=Almazick=-" > wrote in
news:OrsLb.4117$8H.18427@attbi_s03:

> My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates
> always stay 20-40ppm. I tried almost everything but nothing helps.

Have you tested the nitrates in your tapwater?

~Empty

--
'You're not friends. You'll never be friends. You'll be in love till it
kills you both. You'll fight, and you'll shag, and you'll hate each other
till it makes you quiver, but you'll never be friends. Love isn't brains,
children, it's blood... blood screaming inside you to work its will. I may
be love's bitch, but at least I'm man enough to admit it.'
Spike

[Michi Henning]

"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...

> I don't restrict nutrients to try to control algae. Not even phosphate. I
> have a ton of phosphate in my tap water (40 ppm!). It hasn't caused algae
> problems for me. As long as I don't let nitrate drop to zero in my tanks, I
> don't have any algae problems.

I'd second that. I had persistent algae problems in my heavily planted tank,
with
a fairly small fish load. Nitrates were persistently at zero. I tried
everything
from reducing light to various commercial algae treatments, as well as
phosphate
and silicate remover, to no avail. Eventually, Tom Barr made me see the light:
lots of light with a regular fertilization regime has made the algae disappear.
I now keep the nitrate level around 10-15ppm, and phosphates are at around
0.5ppm, with 10 hours of quite intense lighting and CO2 injection. Result: no
more algae, crystal-clear water, and plants that grow like the Day of the
Triffids...

Cheers,

Michi.

--
Michi Henning Ph: +61 4 1118-2700
ZeroC, Inc. http://www.zeroc.com

[Eric Schreiber]

"-=Almazick=-" > wrote:

>My nitrate level is around 20-40ppm, Co2 around 15ppm and I have no idea
>about phosphate, potassium and iron level but I do add a little of bit
>everything by using Seachem products and Leaf Zone. I can see a little bit
>of brush algae on the top of my gravel and I assume it infects all my
>plants. From what I read brush algae will grow as long as it is in the tank
>and there is no way to kill it unless you get rid of it first to make sure
>there are no algae pores in the tank and then as long as you balance the
>tank you won't get brush algae again.

Until it comes in on a new plant or fish, or just blows in the window.
Gutting a tank to get rid of algae is a temporary solution.

Much better to just deal with the situation as it is. Tinker with your
water parameters. Add some fast growing plants (najas or hygro).
Change your lighting. For a really decent solution, toss an SAE or two
into the tank - mine work constantly to keep things tidy, and they do
a great job.

--
www.ericschreiber.com

[LeighMo]

>Amano shrimp are far less picky, and will eat it with gusto all day.

Really? I wonder if cherry shrimp like it?

I've never had BBA in the tank with the Amano shrimp. I did have some BBA once
in a my ghost shrimp tank. Never noticed them eating it, but they seem to be
distinctly more carnivorous than Amano shrimp.

FWIW, Amano shrimp are widely available now. If your LFS doesn't have them,
they will usually be happy to special order them for you. They are often
called "algae-eating shrimp" on the stock lists, so that's what you have to ask
for. They won't know what you're talking about if you ask for Amano shrimp.

When you go to pick them up, take some plant clippings from your tank. Ask the
clerk to put them in the bag with the shrimp for you. It will help with the
water quality. (Shrimp are very sensitive to ammonia and nitrite, which can
build up fast in that little plastic bag.) And it reduces stress for them.
Shrimp need something to cling to, or they freak out and try to cling to each
other, which freaks them out even more. IME, adding a few plant clippings to
the bag goes a long way toward reducing losses when you're bringing shrimp
home.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[LeighMo]

>My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates always
>stay 20-40ppm.

Then something is wrong. That is pretty high for a planted tank. Either
you're overstocked, or you are short of some other nutrient. What fish do you
have in the tank? How many, what size, etc.? What fertilizers do you use?

>By the way which one is it? Brush-Red or
>Hair algae?

Black Brush Algae, AKA Red Algae. The fact that it turns red when it dies is
the giveaway.

It's ugly stuff, but I haven't found it to be any different from other algae as
far as controlling it goes. I had it for awhile, but it went away when I got
the tank in balance. I didn't need to start over.

If you have room in the tank, maybe some Amano shrimp, like Empty suggested
would help.

Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[LeighMo]

>My nitrate level is around 20-40ppm, Co2 around 15ppm and I have no idea
>about phosphate, potassium and iron level but I do add a little of bit
>everything by using Seachem products and Leaf Zone.

Hmm. I don't think any of those products adds phosphate. Generally, that's
not a problem because fish food adds a lot of phosphate, but if you have a low
bio-load it could be. OTOH, if you have a high bio-load, that would explain
why you have trouble keeping your nitrate level down. <g>

> From what I read brush algae will grow as long as it is in the tank
>and there is no way to kill it unless you get rid of it first to make sure
>there are no algae pores in the tank and then as long as you balance the
>tank you won't get brush algae again.

I haven't found that to be true. And algae spores always find their way into
your tank somehow.

However, some kind of algae-eater is probably a good idea. As I recall, you
have a 65 gallon tank. That is large enough for a SAE or three. (They are
happiest in groups.) But SAEs are rambunctious fish, very active, fast
swimmers, that get rather large (5"-6"). If the rest of your fish are small,
shy types, Amano shrimp might be a better bet.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[-=Almazick=-]

Guys it is easy for you to say that it is easy to get rid of algae. I've
been fighting with my algae for about a year and now i'm just a little bit
exhausted. I uploaded more pics please take a look at it
http://s93457593.onlinehome.us/Algae.htm. This is the fish I have in my
tank: 2 Cardinals, 6 Otocinclus, 3 Angels, 3 Cory's (Bandit, Bronze,
Blochi), 3 Glass Catfish, 2 Perl Gourami's, 1 Bristlenose, 1 GAE (gold algae
eater), 1 Sailfin Molly. I was trying today to track down a true SAE but it
looks a lot harder than I expected. I can't even buy it over the net
because it is 20F outside :( By the way is there a place when I can go a
test my water for MicroNutrients I have no problems to pay $10-$20 for the
test. Like I said before Brush Algae growing on the top of my gravel and
keeps infecting plants. If there is no way to kill it then how should I
remove it from the gravel? Whenever I do water change I get rid of a little
bit of gravel but the gravel itself is infected with brush algae.











"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...
> >My plants grow fast and to keep low nitrates is very hard. Nitrates
always
> >stay 20-40ppm.
>
> Then something is wrong. That is pretty high for a planted tank. Either
> you're overstocked, or you are short of some other nutrient. What fish do
you
> have in the tank? How many, what size, etc.? What fertilizers do you
use?
>
> >By the way which one is it? Brush-Red or
> >Hair algae?
>
> Black Brush Algae, AKA Red Algae. The fact that it turns red when it dies
is
> the giveaway.
>
> It's ugly stuff, but I haven't found it to be any different from other
algae as
> far as controlling it goes. I had it for awhile, but it went away when I
got
> the tank in balance. I didn't need to start over.
>
> If you have room in the tank, maybe some Amano shrimp, like Empty
suggested
> would help.
>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[N. Wise]

>Guys it is easy for you to say that it is easy to get rid of algae. I've
>been fighting with my algae for about a year and now i'm just a little bit
>exhausted. I uploaded more pics please take a look at it
>http://s93457593.onlinehome.us/Algae.htm. This is the fish I have in my
>tank: 2 Cardinals, 6 Otocinclus, 3 Angels, 3 Cory's (Bandit, Bronze,
>Blochi), 3 Glass Catfish, 2 Perl Gourami's, 1 Bristlenose, 1 GAE (gold algae
>eater), 1 Sailfin Molly. I was trying today to track down a true SAE but it
>looks a lot harder than I expected. I can't even buy it over the net
>because it is 20F outside :( By the way is there a place when I can go a
>test my water for MicroNutrients I have no problems to pay $10-$20 for the
>test. Like I said before Brush Algae growing on the top of my gravel and
>keeps infecting plants. If there is no way to kill it then how should I
>remove it from the gravel? Whenever I do water change I get rid of a little
>bit of gravel but the gravel itself is infected with brush algae.

The reason people say it is easy to get rid of algae is because for them, it
is. I place myself in that category. Perhaps some of us who get it, lose
patience with those who do not. I just recently moved an old 55 gallon that
had been neglected for over a year. There was black hair algae on everything.
Now, three weeks later, algae is disappearing, and the plants are starting to
pearl again.

Try searching the archives for information on nutrient balance. It's all about
finding that balance. I wouldn't worry about testing for micro's. As long as
you are doing regular dosing of decent levels, you shouldn't have a prob.
Focus on the 3 main macros and iron. Keep those from reachign zero. Keep the
co2 and light at decent levels and the plants will always outcompete algae.

N. Wise
http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[N. Wise]

>
>"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...
>
>> I don't restrict nutrients to try to control algae. Not even phosphate. I
>> have a ton of phosphate in my tap water (40 ppm!). It hasn't caused algae
>> problems for me. As long as I don't let nitrate drop to zero in my tanks, I
>> don't have any algae problems.
>
>I'd second that. I had persistent algae problems in my heavily planted tank,
with
>a fairly small fish load. Nitrates were persistently at zero. I tried
everything
>from reducing light to various commercial algae treatments, as well as
phosphate
>and silicate remover, to no avail. Eventually, Tom Barr made me see the
>light: lots of light with a regular fertilization regime has made the algae
disappear.
>I now keep the nitrate level around 10-15ppm, and phosphates are at around
>0.5ppm, with 10 hours of quite intense lighting and CO2 injection. Result: no
>more algae, crystal-clear water, and plants that grow like the Day of the
Triffids...

Amen. A few years ago, I was beating people over the head to get them to
realize this. I get tired of people having algae and someone saying, "your
nitrates are too high" or "you have too much phosphate." Blah, blah. I have
had tanks with nitrates at 25 ppm and phosphates at 3 ppm-----no algae. Here's
the key to my success...........DON'T LET ANYTHING REACH ZERO.

If your nitrates are zero.....algae.

If your phosphate is zero....algae.

Not dosing potassium......algae.

(all assuming high light/co2, of course)



N. Wise
http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[Trina]

I'd be interested in some free or near free plants. I recently started
my 44 gal. 5-sided aquarium (been cycling for 5 weeks now and nitrites
still high but amonia low).
I live in Yukon, Canada and will pay all shipping plus moe if needed.
I'm looking for christmas moss (wall) and two large (cover aqaurium
heater & filter intake)to start.
I have low light (60 Hz, 17 watt full spectrum)with a space for one
more the same size, already glassed in and everything (just discovered
it under a cover..lol) not sure if you can get brighter ones the same
size, but would be a thought..
Will email pics to requestors :)

Cheers,
Trina

[-=Almazick=-]

It sounds very interesting. I might try to increase Iron dosage and we'll
see what happens. I just hope you are right. I have 144W and Pressurized
CO2. How bad was your black Brush algae?





"N. Wise" > wrote in message
...
> >Guys it is easy for you to say that it is easy to get rid of algae. I've
> >been fighting with my algae for about a year and now i'm just a little
bit
> >exhausted. I uploaded more pics please take a look at it
> >http://s93457593.onlinehome.us/Algae.htm. This is the fish I have in my
> >tank: 2 Cardinals, 6 Otocinclus, 3 Angels, 3 Cory's (Bandit, Bronze,
> >Blochi), 3 Glass Catfish, 2 Perl Gourami's, 1 Bristlenose, 1 GAE (gold
algae
> >eater), 1 Sailfin Molly. I was trying today to track down a true SAE but
it
> >looks a lot harder than I expected. I can't even buy it over the net
> >because it is 20F outside :( By the way is there a place when I can go a
> >test my water for MicroNutrients I have no problems to pay $10-$20 for
the
> >test. Like I said before Brush Algae growing on the top of my gravel and
> >keeps infecting plants. If there is no way to kill it then how should I
> >remove it from the gravel? Whenever I do water change I get rid of a
little
> >bit of gravel but the gravel itself is infected with brush algae.
>
> The reason people say it is easy to get rid of algae is because for them,
it
> is. I place myself in that category. Perhaps some of us who get it, lose
> patience with those who do not. I just recently moved an old 55 gallon
that
> had been neglected for over a year. There was black hair algae on
everything.
> Now, three weeks later, algae is disappearing, and the plants are starting
to
> pearl again.
>
> Try searching the archives for information on nutrient balance. It's all
about
> finding that balance. I wouldn't worry about testing for micro's. As
long as
> you are doing regular dosing of decent levels, you shouldn't have a prob.

> Focus on the 3 main macros and iron. Keep those from reachign zero. Keep
the
> co2 and light at decent levels and the plants will always outcompete
algae.
>
> N. Wise
> http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[-=Almazick=-]

I have another question. How often do you add Iron to the tank. I've been
testing my tank for Iron but it always shows 0 even after adding iron to the
tank. It is always undetectable. Can I keep adding Iron every second day?




"N. Wise" > wrote in message
...
> >Guys it is easy for you to say that it is easy to get rid of algae. I've
> >been fighting with my algae for about a year and now i'm just a little
bit
> >exhausted. I uploaded more pics please take a look at it
> >http://s93457593.onlinehome.us/Algae.htm. This is the fish I have in my
> >tank: 2 Cardinals, 6 Otocinclus, 3 Angels, 3 Cory's (Bandit, Bronze,
> >Blochi), 3 Glass Catfish, 2 Perl Gourami's, 1 Bristlenose, 1 GAE (gold
algae
> >eater), 1 Sailfin Molly. I was trying today to track down a true SAE but
it
> >looks a lot harder than I expected. I can't even buy it over the net
> >because it is 20F outside :( By the way is there a place when I can go a
> >test my water for MicroNutrients I have no problems to pay $10-$20 for
the
> >test. Like I said before Brush Algae growing on the top of my gravel and
> >keeps infecting plants. If there is no way to kill it then how should I
> >remove it from the gravel? Whenever I do water change I get rid of a
little
> >bit of gravel but the gravel itself is infected with brush algae.
>
> The reason people say it is easy to get rid of algae is because for them,
it
> is. I place myself in that category. Perhaps some of us who get it, lose
> patience with those who do not. I just recently moved an old 55 gallon
that
> had been neglected for over a year. There was black hair algae on
everything.
> Now, three weeks later, algae is disappearing, and the plants are starting
to
> pearl again.
>
> Try searching the archives for information on nutrient balance. It's all
about
> finding that balance. I wouldn't worry about testing for micro's. As
long as
> you are doing regular dosing of decent levels, you shouldn't have a prob.
> Focus on the 3 main macros and iron. Keep those from reachign zero. Keep
the
> co2 and light at decent levels and the plants will always outcompete
algae.
>
> N. Wise
> http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[N. Wise]

>
>I have another question. How often do you add Iron to the tank. I've been
>testing my tank for Iron but it always shows 0 even after adding iron to the
>tank. It is always undetectable. Can I keep adding Iron every second day?
>

You need to dose enough to get the levels to stay around 0.1ppm of chelated
iron. Maintain this level for best results.

N. Wise
http://members.aol.com/nwwise01/

[LeighMo]

>Guys it is easy for you to say that it is easy to get rid of algae. I've
>been fighting with my algae for about a year and now i'm just a little bit
>exhausted. I uploaded more pics please take a look at it
>http://s93457593.onlinehome.us/Algae.htm

Your plants look pale. Ordinarily I don't put too much stock in iron tests --
they are often unreliable -- but in your case, maybe that 0 iron number is
something to worry about.

Try increasing your fertilizing regimen until your plants are a nice, deep
green. Look at the photos of other people's planted tanks. That's the color
green yours should be.

(I've found that the dose recommended on the bottle is often very low for a
brighly light, densely planted, CO2-injected tank. You may have to add much
more.)

If increasing ferts doesn't help, then maybe it's something like phosphorus,
that isn't in your ferts. Your fish load is fairly light for a 65 gallon tank,
and if you are feeding very lightly, you might not have enough phosphorus. You
might try Seachem's new phosphorus supplement, and see if it helps.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[Empty]

(LeighMo) wrote in
:

>>Amano shrimp are far less picky, and will eat it with gusto all day.
>
> Really? I wonder if cherry shrimp like it?

No clue.

I had a bit of BBA growing on the fluorite in my 20 long, and I tossed some
Amanos in there. They will pick up a rock and slowly spin it, eating, much
like some alien version of corn on the cob.

~Empty
--
'You're not friends. You'll never be friends. You'll be in love till it
kills you both. You'll fight, and you'll shag, and you'll hate each other
till it makes you quiver, but you'll never be friends. Love isn't brains,
children, it's blood... blood screaming inside you to work its will. I may
be love's bitch, but at least I'm man enough to admit it.'
Spike