Weird experience with incandescent light bulb plus....

[Daniel Morrow]

The swing arm lamp I have above my fancy guppy display and breeding
aquarium has been killing incandescent and I am pretty sure
fluorescent light bulbs screwed into it. I have a standard 15 watt
fluorescent hood light (in a standard aquarium top mount also. It
appears to be a lot dimmer all of the sudden and since noticing it the
fluorescent screw in bulb in my swing arm lamp died after 2 months (no
more) use. Since then I have been using incandescents in the swing arm
lamp and they dye in an hour or two which is why I don't use that lamp
anymore.

Could someone explain to me why the light bulbs in the swing arm lamp
die way too early? Up to now I have been keeping the screw in bulbs
about 6 inches above the water's surface, is it true according to my
friend that a little water on screw in bulbs from the bubbles bursting
at the surface of my aquarium will cause the screw in bulbs to be
destroyed? I have extensive hobbyist experience with electrical and
electronic equipment and I can't figure it out yet. I tested the
voltage at the swing arm lamp and it's a standard 120 volts ac
according to my multitester and the problem will not go away yet but I
am going to try moving the screw in bulb to the side of the aquarium
away from the bubbles and surface and see if that bulb lasts longer.

Could the tube fluorescent light be dying causing bad electricity on
the light circuit (electrically)? Could the ballast be pulling too
much current through the parallel-connected swing arm lamp destroying
the screw in bulbs (I have never heard of this before, after all it's
a parallel connection)? I tried an older tube fluorescent bulb with no
brighter light and an old tube fluorescent hood that has a built in
ballast and the light with both tube fluorescents on is still weak.
Both tubes have a automatic fluorescent light starter and they both
seem to work just fine if not for the tubes' dimness.

Also - I have one corkscrew valisneria and 1 standard valisneria
spiralis with one offshoot, one small Amazon sword plant, and two
narrow chain sword plants in this tank since about 2-3 weeks ago after
buying them by mail and they seem fine except I have noticed little to
no plant growth so far. Is this normal or do I need more light or
what? I did get them shipped to me from across the whole country so
they may have (almost definitely actually) been exposed to cold
temperatures, would that cause them to stop growing for a while? I've
had some elodea densia in this same tank for about 2 months now and
except for initial fast growth it just sits there, and some of the
elodea is dying (not enough light?). The water conditions are; ph -
about 6.8 - 6.9, soft water, and the tank has over filtration so there
should be no ammonia (not enough fish for otherwise yet) or nitrites
but may have significant nitrates which I understand should be good
for the plants from what I have heard. Thanks and later.

[Chuckles]

I dont know what to tell you about the plants since I am new to plants
too, but you electrical problem sounds like you have a corroded
connection somewheres. It could be in your light socket(where the light
bulb screws in(Most likley)), or another connection in the lamp wiring.
A corroded connection would give higher resistance at that point and
that increases heat. I have seen bad connections in the past bring on
untimely deaths to light bulbs. Hope this helps.

Daniel Morrow wrote:
> The swing arm lamp I have above my fancy guppy display and breeding
> aquarium has been killing incandescent and I am pretty sure
> fluorescent light bulbs screwed into it. I have a standard 15 watt
> fluorescent hood light (in a standard aquarium top mount also. It
> appears to be a lot dimmer all of the sudden and since noticing it the
> fluorescent screw in bulb in my swing arm lamp died after 2 months (no
> more) use. Since then I have been using incandescents in the swing arm
> lamp and they dye in an hour or two which is why I don't use that lamp
> anymore.
>
> Could someone explain to me why the light bulbs in the swing arm lamp
> die way too early? Up to now I have been keeping the screw in bulbs
> about 6 inches above the water's surface, is it true according to my
> friend that a little water on screw in bulbs from the bubbles bursting
> at the surface of my aquarium will cause the screw in bulbs to be
> destroyed? I have extensive hobbyist experience with electrical and
> electronic equipment and I can't figure it out yet. I tested the
> voltage at the swing arm lamp and it's a standard 120 volts ac
> according to my multitester and the problem will not go away yet but I
> am going to try moving the screw in bulb to the side of the aquarium
> away from the bubbles and surface and see if that bulb lasts longer.
>
> Could the tube fluorescent light be dying causing bad electricity on
> the light circuit (electrically)? Could the ballast be pulling too
> much current through the parallel-connected swing arm lamp destroying
> the screw in bulbs (I have never heard of this before, after all it's
> a parallel connection)? I tried an older tube fluorescent bulb with no
> brighter light and an old tube fluorescent hood that has a built in
> ballast and the light with both tube fluorescents on is still weak.
> Both tubes have a automatic fluorescent light starter and they both
> seem to work just fine if not for the tubes' dimness.
>
> Also - I have one corkscrew valisneria and 1 standard valisneria
> spiralis with one offshoot, one small Amazon sword plant, and two
> narrow chain sword plants in this tank since about 2-3 weeks ago after
> buying them by mail and they seem fine except I have noticed little to
> no plant growth so far. Is this normal or do I need more light or
> what? I did get them shipped to me from across the whole country so
> they may have (almost definitely actually) been exposed to cold
> temperatures, would that cause them to stop growing for a while? I've
> had some elodea densia in this same tank for about 2 months now and
> except for initial fast growth it just sits there, and some of the
> elodea is dying (not enough light?). The water conditions are; ph -
> about 6.8 - 6.9, soft water, and the tank has over filtration so there
> should be no ammonia (not enough fish for otherwise yet) or nitrites
> but may have significant nitrates which I understand should be good
> for the plants from what I have heard. Thanks and later.

[Daniel Morrow]

Chuckles > wrote in message >...
> I dont know what to tell you about the plants since I am new to plants
> too, but you electrical problem sounds like you have a corroded
> connection somewheres. It could be in your light socket(where the light
> bulb screws in(Most likley)), or another connection in the lamp wiring.
> A corroded connection would give higher resistance at that point and
> that increases heat. I have seen bad connections in the past bring on
> untimely deaths to light bulbs. Hope this helps.

Thanks Chuckles! What you said gives me something to look for in the
future possibly. In this instance however I am pretty much 100% sure
that what I experienced is thermal shock to the light bulb causing a
thin crack to appear in each one. I am currently on my fourth bulb and
two of the others definitely had cracks on them near the base of the
screw in socket. The glass at the base got hot and the glass on the
rest of it stayed cool - thermal shock (carefully heat a piece of
glass hot and drop it into cool water to see for yourself). The only
question now is why did the fluorescent screw in bulb only last for
only 2 months. I think my tube fluorescent light bulbs/tubes have been
worn out for a long time and the screw in fluorescent worked so good
(except for the limited life) that I didn't notice how weak the light
from the tubes were. Either that or I just got spoiled by the screw in
fluorescent light bulb being so bright and penetrating. Thanks and I
will be on the lookout for what you described. Later - Dan!

[Chuckles]

Daniel Morrow wrote:
> Chuckles > wrote in message >...
>
>>I dont know what to tell you about the plants since I am new to plants
>>too, but you electrical problem sounds like you have a corroded
>>connection somewheres. It could be in your light socket(where the light
>>bulb screws in(Most likley)), or another connection in the lamp wiring.
>> A corroded connection would give higher resistance at that point and
>>that increases heat. I have seen bad connections in the past bring on
>>untimely deaths to light bulbs. Hope this helps.
>
>
> Thanks Chuckles! What you said gives me something to look for in the
> future possibly. In this instance however I am pretty much 100% sure
> that what I experienced is thermal shock to the light bulb causing a
> thin crack to appear in each one. I am currently on my fourth bulb and
> two of the others definitely had cracks on them near the base of the
> screw in socket. The glass at the base got hot and the glass on the
> rest of it stayed cool - thermal shock (carefully heat a piece of
> glass hot and drop it into cool water to see for yourself). The only
> question now is why did the fluorescent screw in bulb only last for
> only 2 months. I think my tube fluorescent light bulbs/tubes have been
> worn out for a long time and the screw in fluorescent worked so good
> (except for the limited life) that I didn't notice how weak the light
> from the tubes were. Either that or I just got spoiled by the screw in
> fluorescent light bulb being so bright and penetrating. Thanks and I
> will be on the lookout for what you described. Later - Dan!

The screw in base probably has a little corrosion on it(possibly from
being close to the water). I would suggest either changing it, or for a
quick fix, get some sandpaper and sand the inside of the socket base.
Of course you want to unplug it first but I am sure you know that :p .
The higher the wattage, the more heat is built up in the socket, so a
lower watt bulb like your screw in flourescent could possibly last
longer. I am guessing that your flourescent blubs are using less
wattage. Good luck and hope that helps.

[Robert Dout]

(Daniel Morrow) wrote in message >...
> The swing arm lamp I have above my fancy guppy display and breeding
> aquarium has been killing incandescent and I am pretty sure
> fluorescent light bulbs screwed into it. I have a standard 15 watt
> fluorescent hood light (in a standard aquarium top mount also. It
> appears to be a lot dimmer all of the sudden and since noticing it the
> fluorescent screw in bulb in my swing arm lamp died after 2 months (no
> more) use. Since then I have been using incandescents in the swing arm
> lamp and they dye in an hour or two which is why I don't use that lamp
> anymore.
>
> Could someone explain to me why the light bulbs in the swing arm lamp
> die way too early? Up to now I have been keeping the screw in bulbs
> about 6 inches above the water's surface, is it true according to my
> friend that a little water on screw in bulbs from the bubbles bursting
> at the surface of my aquarium will cause the screw in bulbs to be
> destroyed? I have extensive hobbyist experience with electrical and
> electronic equipment and I can't figure it out yet. I tested the
> voltage at the swing arm lamp and it's a standard 120 volts ac
> according to my multitester and the problem will not go away yet but I
> am going to try moving the screw in bulb to the side of the aquarium
> away from the bubbles and surface and see if that bulb lasts longer.
>
> Could the tube fluorescent light be dying causing bad electricity on
> the light circuit (electrically)? Could the ballast be pulling too
> much current through the parallel-connected swing arm lamp destroying
> the screw in bulbs (I have never heard of this before, after all it's
> a parallel connection)? I tried an older tube fluorescent bulb with no
> brighter light and an old tube fluorescent hood that has a built in
> ballast and the light with both tube fluorescents on is still weak.
> Both tubes have a automatic fluorescent light starter and they both
> seem to work just fine if not for the tubes' dimness.
>
>

Sounds like a loose neutral the white wire side of the socket /plug /
receptical or wire connectors are not making good connections which
makes the voltage spike even though you cant see it on a meter

[alexmaark]

I accept one braid valisneria and 1 accepted valisneria spiralis with one offshoot, one baby Amazon brand plant, and two narrow alternation brand plants in this catchbasin back about 2-3 weeks ago after buying them by mail and they assume accomplished except I accept noticed little to no bulb advance so far.