Light Kit Transformers

[stricks760]

Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . .

If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I
run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)

The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real
pondlights.

Thanks again!

[joe]

stricks760 wrote:

> If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I
> run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)
>
> The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
> run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real
> pondlights.

Absolutely. Although, I bought a 300w malibu transformer for, I think about
$100. After 2 months it died. Home depot is a great place. I took it back,
got another. Two months later - poof. One more time; two months later - yup.
So I bought a different brand (300w for $48) still going strong. Can't
remember the manufacturer, but email me privately and I'll go look.

Joe



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[John Rutz]

stricks760 wrote:
> Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . .
>
> If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I
> run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)
>
> The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
> run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real
> pondlights.
>
> Thanks again!
>
>
it will work just make sure its output is rated for the total wattagge
of your pond lites and a bit more

--





John Rutz
Z5 New Mexico

never miss a good oportunity to shut up

see my pond at:

http://www.fuerjefe.com

[Hank Pagel]

I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely
submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can do
it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one made
for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of
lexan, maybe.
I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be done
to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that.
> wrote in message
...
> The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because
> they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a
> failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC)
> can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is
a
> really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper
> transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for
> submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI
> protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that
> any wire splicing is done well away from the water.
>
> I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last
year.
> I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply
> house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright
LEDs.
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760"
>
> wrote:
>
> >Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . .
> >
> >If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home
Depot, can I
> >run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)
> >
> >The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
> >run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get
real
> >pondlights.
> >
> >Thanks again!
> >
>

[[email protected]]

for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED
lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to
replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting
resistor built in.

I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power
cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use
is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED
produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC.

The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue
for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster
lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall.




On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 12:56:54 -0400, "Hank Pagel"
> wrote:

>I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely
>submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can do
>it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one made
>for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of
>lexan, maybe.
> I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be done
>to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that.
> wrote in message
...
>> The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because
>> they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a
>> failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC)
>> can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is
>a
>> really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper
>> transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for
>> submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI
>> protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that
>> any wire splicing is done well away from the water.
>>
>> I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last
>year.
>> I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply
>> house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright
>LEDs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760"
>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . .
>> >
>> >If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home
>Depot, can I
>> >run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)
>> >
>> >The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
>> >run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get
>real
>> >pondlights.
>> >
>> >Thanks again!
>> >
>>
>
>

[Hank Pagel]

Thanks, Potting would be alot easier than a housing and a lot less
buoyant and noticeable in the daytime.
> wrote in message
...
> for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm
LED
> lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to
> replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting
> resistor built in.
>
> I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power
> cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use
> is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each
LED
> produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC.
>
> The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and
blue
> for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster
> lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall.
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 12:56:54 -0400, "Hank Pagel"
> > wrote:
>
> >I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely
> >submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can
do
> >it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one
made
> >for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of
> >lexan, maybe.
> > I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be
done
> >to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that.
> > wrote in message
> ...
> >> The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more
because
> >> they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a
> >> failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120
VAC)
> >> can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer
is
> >a
> >> really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the
cheaper
> >> transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for
> >> submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI
> >> protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure
that
> >> any wire splicing is done well away from the water.
> >>
> >> I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last
> >year.
> >> I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics
supply
> >> house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright
> >LEDs.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760"
> >
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions .
.. .
> >> >
> >> >If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home
> >Depot, can I
> >> >run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)
> >> >
> >> >The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
> >> >run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get
> >real
> >> >pondlights.
> >> >
> >> >Thanks again!
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
>

[malcolm]

best to put an inverse parallel diode across the LEDs too,
and an inline fuse so if the supply get reversed the fuse goes not the LEDs
regards malcolm

--
¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸
LED Headlamps and Sea Fishing UK
http://www.geocities.com/malc_hurn
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/seafishinguk
http://www.brockstock.org.uk


¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸


> wrote in message
...
> for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED
> lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to
> replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting
> resistor built in.
>
> I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power
> cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use
> is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED
> produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC.
>
> The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue
> for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster
> lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall.
>
>

[[email protected]]

Actually, the Sunbrite lamp replcament LEDs even have the diode built
into the package...



On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 01:59:32 -0500, "malcolm"
> wrote:

>best to put an inverse parallel diode across the LEDs too,
>and an inline fuse so if the supply get reversed the fuse goes not the LEDs
>regards malcolm
>
>--
>¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸
> LED Headlamps and Sea Fishing UK
> http://www.geocities.com/malc_hurn
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/seafishinguk
> http://www.brockstock.org.uk
>
>
>¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸
>
>
> wrote in message
...
>> for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED
>> lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to
>> replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting
>> resistor built in.
>>
>> I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power
>> cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use
>> is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED
>> produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC.
>>
>> The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue
>> for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster
>> lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall.
>>
>>
>

[malcolm]

good product then

> wrote in message
...
> Actually, the Sunbrite lamp replcament LEDs even have the diode built
> into the package...
>
>
>
> On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 01:59:32 -0500, "malcolm"
> > wrote:
>
> >best to put an inverse parallel diode across the LEDs too,
> >and an inline fuse so if the supply get reversed the fuse goes not the
LEDs
> >regards malcolm
> >
> >--
> >¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸
> > LED Headlamps and Sea Fishing UK
> > http://www.geocities.com/malc_hurn
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/seafishinguk
> > http://www.brockstock.org.uk
> >
> >
> >¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸
> >
> >
> > wrote in message
> ...
> >> for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED
> >> lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to
> >> replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting
> >> resistor built in.
> >>
> >> I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power
> >> cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use
> >> is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED
> >> produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC.
> >>
> >> The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue
> >> for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster
> >> lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall.
> >>
> >>
> >
>

[[email protected]]

from the past....

wrote:

>for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED
>lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to
>replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting
>resistor built in.
>
>I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power
>cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use
>is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED
>produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC.
>
>The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue
>for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster
>lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall.


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