Greenish Tint!

[George Rice]

I would appreciate advice on how to eliminate the green tint in my pond
water. The water is "clear" in the sense that I can see the bottom but the
green tint, which I assume is algae related, is not good.

My system consists of the following:
- A 4000 gallon concrete pond (with black epoxy coating) ranging in depth
from 3 to 4 feet. We currently have about 15 large koi plus many fingerlings
from recent spawns.
- A re-circulation system that includes a 36 watt UV light and a large
Cyprio filter (18 brushes and 12 foam filter blocks). I clean the brushes
and foam blocks each week.
- The pond is in full sun much of the afternoon; but, about 35% of the
surface is covered by waterlilies.
- I treat the pond water according to the directions with "BZT Aquaculture"
which is a brand of "microencapsulated bacteria & enzymes."
George

[George Rice]

Thank you for the advice!

"K30a" > wrote in message
...
> Hi George,
>
> Sounds like a great pond and system that you have going!
>
> Actually algae is a good thing. It is just that ponders tend to overstock
and
> overfeed and don't always keep ahead of the debris so that single cell
algae,
> string algae and blue green algae thrive.
>
> I would not worry about a greenish tint. The single cell algae feeds the
zoo
> plankton that all your fingerlings fed on when they were infants. Unless
the UV
> light has killed all the zooplankton, does anyone know about this, Ingrid
> specifically?
>
> You say you are cleaning the foam blocks once a week. With dechlor-ed
and/or
> dechloramined water? Anything else will kill the bio-bugs.
>
> Others can answer regarding UV lights (I don't have one) and charcoal,
etc.
>
> I don't know if I can offer much more for you to do but I'll post the
looooong
> rec.ponds answer about algae. It has everything but the kitchen sink in
our
> collected answers.
>
>
> This is a collection of tips offered by readers of rec.ponds
> To achieve clear water, instead of pea soup green water, in your pond you
> should:
>
> ~ Realize that algae is tough! It exists in extreme conditions, like ice,
just
> fine. It has many, many different
> forms. It even has a home page!
http://www.nmnh.si.edu/botany/projects/algae/
> And, finally, without algae we wouldn't
> be here so we should treat it with a little respect ;-)
>
> ~ Learn as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and
realizing
> that new ponds must go through
> a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs.
>
> ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction
and
> addition of new water from time to time.
> She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the
plants,
> encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant.
> She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really
get
> out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they
may -
> lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes,
> hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call - whatever...
>
> ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty
fish
> chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage
> predators.
>
> ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons (after the first
> 1000) of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in.
>
> ~ Do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead
algae,
> rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new
algae to
> feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out).
>
> ~ Do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is
good
> algae and helps balance your pond.
>
> ~ Ignore a little string algae. Then remove it by hand.
>
> ~ Install bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and
debris.
>
> ~ Net the pond during the fall to keep leaves out of the pond.
>
> ~ Trim dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you
live
> in colder climates.
>
> ~ Lower your fish stocking, not over feeding fish - algae loves fish waste
> (lots of yummy phosphorous)
>
> ~ Add lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails,
iris,
> pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce
and
> lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the
> algae would like.
>
> ~ Shade - lilies, the floaters (water hyacinth and water lettuce) and
> artificial shade - shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with
vines,
> No sun for the algae.
>
> ~ Clean up debris from the bottom of the pond and
> stock snails to chew up the debris - less decaying stuff for algae food.
>
> ~ Cut back or stop fertilizing plants - same principle.
>
> ~ Plant in fine gravel and top with larger rocks if you have koi.
>
> ~ Mechanical filtration of the fish waste - usually a settling chamber in
your
> filter, or the first row of brushs, filter media.
> Do not overclean the filter.
>
> ~ Biological filtration - more than you think you need as your fish are
going
> to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or
your
> fish breeding in the pond. (This does not help with the algae problem but
> contributes to the overall health of your fish and any critters.
>
> ~ Construct a veggie filter - an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your
pond
> surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid
black
> mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to
plant
> in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond
> water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume.
Veggie
> filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for
bacteria to
> grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning - very
> important or you'll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here
to
> read a great description about how to build one
> http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html
> or
> A veggie filter can be as simple as floating water hyacinth at the top of
your
> stock tank filter. Mine get to be almost three feet tall with leaves as
big as
> my hand.
>
> ~ Purchase sludge eating product - concentrated bacteria culture.
>
> ~ Some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. And you have to
change
> the bulb every year.
>
> ~ Add a bale of barley straw to your pond for string algae. Read this
webpage
> http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html
>
> ~Phosphate Remover - It comes in a large clear container (maybe about
gallon
> sized) but it's also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It's
usually
> near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such
as
> ammonia remover and such.
> You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh
> bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You
need to
> soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet.
>
> ~ Read this web page for interesting theroy on the life and times of algae
> http://www.koiclubsandiego.org/GRENH2O.html
>
> ~ Make sacrifices to the Pond Goddess.
> Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball,
> a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter.
> Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water.
>
> ~ Patience, patience and eternal optimism.
>
>
> k30a

[George Rice]

Thank you for the advice!

"K30a" > wrote in message
...
> Hi George,
>
> Sounds like a great pond and system that you have going!
>
> Actually algae is a good thing. It is just that ponders tend to overstock
and
> overfeed and don't always keep ahead of the debris so that single cell
algae,
> string algae and blue green algae thrive.
>
> I would not worry about a greenish tint. The single cell algae feeds the
zoo
> plankton that all your fingerlings fed on when they were infants. Unless
the UV
> light has killed all the zooplankton, does anyone know about this, Ingrid
> specifically?
>
> You say you are cleaning the foam blocks once a week. With dechlor-ed
and/or
> dechloramined water? Anything else will kill the bio-bugs.
>
> Others can answer regarding UV lights (I don't have one) and charcoal,
etc.
>
> I don't know if I can offer much more for you to do but I'll post the
looooong
> rec.ponds answer about algae. It has everything but the kitchen sink in
our
> collected answers.
>
>
> This is a collection of tips offered by readers of rec.ponds
> To achieve clear water, instead of pea soup green water, in your pond you
> should:
>
> ~ Realize that algae is tough! It exists in extreme conditions, like ice,
just
> fine. It has many, many different
> forms. It even has a home page!
http://www.nmnh.si.edu/botany/projects/algae/
> And, finally, without algae we wouldn't
> be here so we should treat it with a little respect ;-)
>
> ~ Learn as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and
realizing
> that new ponds must go through
> a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs.
>
> ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction
and
> addition of new water from time to time.
> She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the
plants,
> encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant.
> She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really
get
> out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they
may -
> lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes,
> hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call - whatever...
>
> ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty
fish
> chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage
> predators.
>
> ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons (after the first
> 1000) of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in.
>
> ~ Do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead
algae,
> rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new
algae to
> feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out).
>
> ~ Do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is
good
> algae and helps balance your pond.
>
> ~ Ignore a little string algae. Then remove it by hand.
>
> ~ Install bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and
debris.
>
> ~ Net the pond during the fall to keep leaves out of the pond.
>
> ~ Trim dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you
live
> in colder climates.
>
> ~ Lower your fish stocking, not over feeding fish - algae loves fish waste
> (lots of yummy phosphorous)
>
> ~ Add lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails,
iris,
> pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce
and
> lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the
> algae would like.
>
> ~ Shade - lilies, the floaters (water hyacinth and water lettuce) and
> artificial shade - shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with
vines,
> No sun for the algae.
>
> ~ Clean up debris from the bottom of the pond and
> stock snails to chew up the debris - less decaying stuff for algae food.
>
> ~ Cut back or stop fertilizing plants - same principle.
>
> ~ Plant in fine gravel and top with larger rocks if you have koi.
>
> ~ Mechanical filtration of the fish waste - usually a settling chamber in
your
> filter, or the first row of brushs, filter media.
> Do not overclean the filter.
>
> ~ Biological filtration - more than you think you need as your fish are
going
> to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or
your
> fish breeding in the pond. (This does not help with the algae problem but
> contributes to the overall health of your fish and any critters.
>
> ~ Construct a veggie filter - an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your
pond
> surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid
black
> mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to
plant
> in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond
> water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume.
Veggie
> filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for
bacteria to
> grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning - very
> important or you'll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here
to
> read a great description about how to build one
> http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html
> or
> A veggie filter can be as simple as floating water hyacinth at the top of
your
> stock tank filter. Mine get to be almost three feet tall with leaves as
big as
> my hand.
>
> ~ Purchase sludge eating product - concentrated bacteria culture.
>
> ~ Some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. And you have to
change
> the bulb every year.
>
> ~ Add a bale of barley straw to your pond for string algae. Read this
webpage
> http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html
>
> ~Phosphate Remover - It comes in a large clear container (maybe about
gallon
> sized) but it's also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It's
usually
> near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such
as
> ammonia remover and such.
> You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh
> bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You
need to
> soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet.
>
> ~ Read this web page for interesting theroy on the life and times of algae
> http://www.koiclubsandiego.org/GRENH2O.html
>
> ~ Make sacrifices to the Pond Goddess.
> Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball,
> a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter.
> Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water.
>
> ~ Patience, patience and eternal optimism.
>
>
> k30a

[RichToyBox]

George,

How old is the UV light. The bulbs will continue to glow, but the intensity
falls off fairly quickly. They need to be changed at least once per year.
The rather low population of suspended algae should be being killed by the
UV if it working.

Do you have numbers for the ammonia and nitrites in your pond. I have found
that when my ammonia jumps for any reason, I end up with green water. Don't
know which came first or what the relationship is.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"George Rice" > wrote in message
...
> I would appreciate advice on how to eliminate the green tint in my pond
> water. The water is "clear" in the sense that I can see the bottom but the
> green tint, which I assume is algae related, is not good.
>
> My system consists of the following:
> - A 4000 gallon concrete pond (with black epoxy coating) ranging in depth
> from 3 to 4 feet. We currently have about 15 large koi plus many
fingerlings
> from recent spawns.
> - A re-circulation system that includes a 36 watt UV light and a large
> Cyprio filter (18 brushes and 12 foam filter blocks). I clean the brushes
> and foam blocks each week.
> - The pond is in full sun much of the afternoon; but, about 35% of the
> surface is covered by waterlilies.
> - I treat the pond water according to the directions with "BZT
Aquaculture"
> which is a brand of "microencapsulated bacteria & enzymes."
> George
>
>
>

[RichToyBox]

George,

How old is the UV light. The bulbs will continue to glow, but the intensity
falls off fairly quickly. They need to be changed at least once per year.
The rather low population of suspended algae should be being killed by the
UV if it working.

Do you have numbers for the ammonia and nitrites in your pond. I have found
that when my ammonia jumps for any reason, I end up with green water. Don't
know which came first or what the relationship is.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"George Rice" > wrote in message
...
> I would appreciate advice on how to eliminate the green tint in my pond
> water. The water is "clear" in the sense that I can see the bottom but the
> green tint, which I assume is algae related, is not good.
>
> My system consists of the following:
> - A 4000 gallon concrete pond (with black epoxy coating) ranging in depth
> from 3 to 4 feet. We currently have about 15 large koi plus many
fingerlings
> from recent spawns.
> - A re-circulation system that includes a 36 watt UV light and a large
> Cyprio filter (18 brushes and 12 foam filter blocks). I clean the brushes
> and foam blocks each week.
> - The pond is in full sun much of the afternoon; but, about 35% of the
> surface is covered by waterlilies.
> - I treat the pond water according to the directions with "BZT
Aquaculture"
> which is a brand of "microencapsulated bacteria & enzymes."
> George
>
>
>

[George Rice]

Thanks! The UV is about 1 season (6 months of use) old. I will check
nitrate and ammonia.
George

"RichToyBox" > wrote in message
. net...
> George,
>
> How old is the UV light. The bulbs will continue to glow, but the
intensity
> falls off fairly quickly. They need to be changed at least once per year.
> The rather low population of suspended algae should be being killed by the
> UV if it working.
>
> Do you have numbers for the ammonia and nitrites in your pond. I have
found
> that when my ammonia jumps for any reason, I end up with green water.
Don't
> know which came first or what the relationship is.
> --
> RichToyBox
> http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html
>
>
> "George Rice" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I would appreciate advice on how to eliminate the green tint in my pond
> > water. The water is "clear" in the sense that I can see the bottom but
the
> > green tint, which I assume is algae related, is not good.
> >
> > My system consists of the following:
> > - A 4000 gallon concrete pond (with black epoxy coating) ranging in
depth
> > from 3 to 4 feet. We currently have about 15 large koi plus many
> fingerlings
> > from recent spawns.
> > - A re-circulation system that includes a 36 watt UV light and a large
> > Cyprio filter (18 brushes and 12 foam filter blocks). I clean the
brushes
> > and foam blocks each week.
> > - The pond is in full sun much of the afternoon; but, about 35% of the
> > surface is covered by waterlilies.
> > - I treat the pond water according to the directions with "BZT
> Aquaculture"
> > which is a brand of "microencapsulated bacteria & enzymes."
> > George
> >
> >
> >
>
>

[George Rice]

Thanks! The UV is about 1 season (6 months of use) old. I will check
nitrate and ammonia.
George

"RichToyBox" > wrote in message
. net...
> George,
>
> How old is the UV light. The bulbs will continue to glow, but the
intensity
> falls off fairly quickly. They need to be changed at least once per year.
> The rather low population of suspended algae should be being killed by the
> UV if it working.
>
> Do you have numbers for the ammonia and nitrites in your pond. I have
found
> that when my ammonia jumps for any reason, I end up with green water.
Don't
> know which came first or what the relationship is.
> --
> RichToyBox
> http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html
>
>
> "George Rice" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I would appreciate advice on how to eliminate the green tint in my pond
> > water. The water is "clear" in the sense that I can see the bottom but
the
> > green tint, which I assume is algae related, is not good.
> >
> > My system consists of the following:
> > - A 4000 gallon concrete pond (with black epoxy coating) ranging in
depth
> > from 3 to 4 feet. We currently have about 15 large koi plus many
> fingerlings
> > from recent spawns.
> > - A re-circulation system that includes a 36 watt UV light and a large
> > Cyprio filter (18 brushes and 12 foam filter blocks). I clean the
brushes
> > and foam blocks each week.
> > - The pond is in full sun much of the afternoon; but, about 35% of the
> > surface is covered by waterlilies.
> > - I treat the pond water according to the directions with "BZT
> Aquaculture"
> > which is a brand of "microencapsulated bacteria & enzymes."
> > George
> >
> >
> >
>
>