Filter Won't Cycle

[Martin Bagshaw]

Hi

I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long. Nothing else,
no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air in with
the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12 days
ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.

I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for the
nitrite to spike and clear.

We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised around
1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water changes?
less water changes? supplementary water additives?

The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite should
be 0 so I'd like to get it down.

Thanks in anticipation

Martin.

[Donald Kerns]

Martin Bagshaw wrote:

> I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long. Nothing
> else, no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air
> in with the outlet which has been running continuously ever since.
> After 12 days ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm.
> After 4 weeks ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
>
> I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for
> the nitrite to spike and clear.
>
> We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
> around 1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more
> water changes? less water changes? supplementary water additives?

Greetings,

With a 5" fish in a 10 gallon tank you might not have enough surface
area to fully establish the bio-filter. (It's really too small for a
fish that size.)

I don't know the Fluval... Is there any chance you could add some filter
batting to it? How about a couple of plastic plants? Not be so
aggressive on filter cleaning, etc...

-D
--
"Faced with the choice between changing one's mind and proving
that there is no need to do so, almost everyone gets busy on the
proof." -Galbraith's Law

[[email protected]]

yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to drop and kill
the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding it. it will cycle
in 4-5 days. Ingrid

"Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:

>Hi
>
>I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long. Nothing else,
>no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
>On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air in with
>the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12 days
>ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
>ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
>
>I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for the
>nitrite to spike and clear.
>
>We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised around
>1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water changes?
>less water changes? supplementary water additives?
>
>The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite should
>be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
>
>Thanks in anticipation
>
>Martin.
>



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

[Martin Bagshaw]

"Donald Kerns" > wrote in message
...
> Martin Bagshaw wrote:
>
> > I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long. Nothing
> > else, no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> > On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air
> > in with the outlet which has been running continuously ever since.
> > After 12 days ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm.
> > After 4 weeks ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> >
> > I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for
> > the nitrite to spike and clear.
> >
> > We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
> > around 1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more
> > water changes? less water changes? supplementary water additives?
>
> Greetings,
>
> With a 5" fish in a 10 gallon tank you might not have enough surface
> area to fully establish the bio-filter. (It's really too small for a
> fish that size.)
>
> I don't know the Fluval... Is there any chance you could add some filter
> batting to it? How about a couple of plastic plants? Not be so
> aggressive on filter cleaning, etc...
>

Thanks for the response, the filter has two sponge elements in it, only a
simple design so no where for additional media to go as far as I can see.
I've got a couple of plastic plants I could put in, how would they effect
the performance of the filter?

Martin

[Martin Bagshaw]

Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk but I;ll
have a look after the holidays. We can get something called Stresszyme
which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as well

Cheers
Martin

> wrote in message
...
> yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to drop
and kill
> the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
> you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding it. it
will cycle
> in 4-5 days. Ingrid
>
> "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
>
> >Hi
> >
> >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long. Nothing
else,
> >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air in
with
> >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12 days
> >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
> >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> >
> >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for the
> >nitrite to spike and clear.
> >
> >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
around
> >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
changes?
> >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
> >
> >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite
should
> >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
> >
> >Thanks in anticipation
> >
> >Martin.
> >
>
>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> www.drsolo.com
> Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> endorsements or recommendations I make.

[Donald Kerns]

Martin Bagshaw wrote:

>
> Thanks for the response, the filter has two sponge elements in it,
> only a simple design so no where for additional media to go as far as
> I can see. I've got a couple of plastic plants I could put in, how
> would they effect the performance of the filter?

The bio-buggies need a) food (NH3 & NO2) b) oxygen c) room to grow
(filter, tank walls, plants, etc).

Your 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon tank is producing more ammonia (that
converts into nitrIte) than the current "bio-filtration" in your tank
can handle.

Since it has been cycling forever, and is stuck in the nitrItes phase,
my posit is that there is not enough surface area for the NO2->NO3
biobugs.

By adding plastic (or even live) plants you will increase the available
surface area... (Or batting in your filter or a 1/4 - 1/2 inch layer of
river rocks on the bottom of the tank...)

-D
--
"Faced with the choice between changing one's mind and proving
that there is no need to do so, almost everyone gets busy on the
proof." -Galbraith's Law

[Kodiak]

I had a similar issue, took 9 weeks to cycle. I think doing excessive
water changes is good for the fish, but maybe dosen't allow biobugs to
build up to critical mass.

Are you using dechlorinator or ageing your tapwater for your water changes?
What temp are you at? Did you try to crank up temp a bit?
I used Biozyme on two occasions. One time it didn't work,
the other time it did.

....Kodiak

"Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk but
I;ll
> have a look after the holidays. We can get something called Stresszyme
> which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as well
>
> Cheers
> Martin
>
> > wrote in message
> ...
> > yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to
drop
> and kill
> > the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
> > you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding it.
it
> will cycle
> > in 4-5 days. Ingrid
> >
> > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
> >
> > >Hi
> > >
> > >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long. Nothing
> else,
> > >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> > >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air in
> with
> > >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12
days
> > >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
> > >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> > >
> > >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for the
> > >nitrite to spike and clear.
> > >
> > >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
> around
> > >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
> changes?
> > >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
> > >
> > >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite
> should
> > >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
> > >
> > >Thanks in anticipation
> > >
> > >Martin.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> > www.drsolo.com
> > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> > endorsements or recommendations I make.
>
>

[Martin Bagshaw]

"Donald Kerns" > wrote in message
...
> Martin Bagshaw wrote:
>
> >
> > Thanks for the response, the filter has two sponge elements in it,
> > only a simple design so no where for additional media to go as far as
> > I can see. I've got a couple of plastic plants I could put in, how
> > would they effect the performance of the filter?
>
> The bio-buggies need a) food (NH3 & NO2) b) oxygen c) room to grow
> (filter, tank walls, plants, etc).
>
> Your 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon tank is producing more ammonia (that
> converts into nitrIte) than the current "bio-filtration" in your tank
> can handle.
>
> Since it has been cycling forever, and is stuck in the nitrItes phase,
> my posit is that there is not enough surface area for the NO2->NO3
> biobugs.
>
> By adding plastic (or even live) plants you will increase the available
> surface area... (Or batting in your filter or a 1/4 - 1/2 inch layer of
> river rocks on the bottom of the tank...)

OK that sounds reasonable to me, plastic plants went in this morning. I'll
keep you posted

Martin

[Martin Bagshaw]

Temp is ambient room temp cos got no heater in there, typically between 20 -
22 degrees
Don't use any form of treatment for the water just straight from the tap.
I've put some plastic plants in as suggested by Donald in the other thread
to increase the surface area for bugs to grow on, I'll keep you posted over
the next couple of weeks.

Cheers
Martin


"Kodiak" > wrote in message
...
> I had a similar issue, took 9 weeks to cycle. I think doing excessive
> water changes is good for the fish, but maybe dosen't allow biobugs to
> build up to critical mass.
>
> Are you using dechlorinator or ageing your tapwater for your water
changes?
> What temp are you at? Did you try to crank up temp a bit?
> I used Biozyme on two occasions. One time it didn't work,
> the other time it did.
>
> ...Kodiak
>
> "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk but
> I;ll
> > have a look after the holidays. We can get something called Stresszyme
> > which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as well
> >
> > Cheers
> > Martin
> >
> > > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to
> drop
> > and kill
> > > the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
> > > you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding it.
> it
> > will cycle
> > > in 4-5 days. Ingrid
> > >
> > > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
> > >
> > > >Hi
> > > >
> > > >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long.
Nothing
> > else,
> > > >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> > > >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air
in
> > with
> > > >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12
> days
> > > >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
> > > >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> > > >
> > > >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for
the
> > > >nitrite to spike and clear.
> > > >
> > > >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
> > around
> > > >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
> > changes?
> > > >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
> > > >
> > > >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite
> > should
> > > >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
> > > >
> > > >Thanks in anticipation
> > > >
> > > >Martin.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> > > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> > > www.drsolo.com
> > > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> > > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> > > endorsements or recommendations I make.
> >
> >
>
>

[Azul]

If you live in town, then normally the water is treated with either
chlorine or chloramine. Both of these can harm the fish and biobugs.
You should be using something to remove them from the water. If I
understand correctly, letting the water stand with an air stone
running for at least 24 hours will rid it of chlorine, but I don't
think that works for chloramine.



On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:22:44 +0000 (UTC), "Martin Bagshaw"
> wrote:

>Temp is ambient room temp cos got no heater in there, typically between 20 -
>22 degrees
>Don't use any form of treatment for the water just straight from the tap.
>I've put some plastic plants in as suggested by Donald in the other thread
>to increase the surface area for bugs to grow on, I'll keep you posted over
>the next couple of weeks.
>
>Cheers
>Martin
>
>
>"Kodiak" > wrote in message
...
>> I had a similar issue, took 9 weeks to cycle. I think doing excessive
>> water changes is good for the fish, but maybe dosen't allow biobugs to
>> build up to critical mass.
>>
>> Are you using dechlorinator or ageing your tapwater for your water
>changes?
>> What temp are you at? Did you try to crank up temp a bit?
>> I used Biozyme on two occasions. One time it didn't work,
>> the other time it did.
>>
>> ...Kodiak
>>
>> "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk but
>> I;ll
>> > have a look after the holidays. We can get something called Stresszyme
>> > which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as well
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> > Martin
>> >
>> > > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> > > yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to
>> drop
>> > and kill
>> > > the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
>> > > you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding it.
>> it
>> > will cycle
>> > > in 4-5 days. Ingrid
>> > >
>> > > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > >Hi
>> > > >
>> > > >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long.
>Nothing
>> > else,
>> > > >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
>> > > >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air
>in
>> > with
>> > > >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12
>> days
>> > > >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
>> > > >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
>> > > >
>> > > >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for
>the
>> > > >nitrite to spike and clear.
>> > > >
>> > > >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
>> > around
>> > > >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
>> > changes?
>> > > >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
>> > > >
>> > > >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite
>> > should
>> > > >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
>> > > >
>> > > >Thanks in anticipation
>> > > >
>> > > >Martin.
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> > > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
>> > > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
>> > > www.drsolo.com
>> > > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
>> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> > > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
>> > > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
>> > > endorsements or recommendations I make.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>


Azul

[Kodiak]

Martin,
Get a heater and crank up temp to 25
You absolutely must treat the tapwater before you dump in the tank.
The chlorine and chloramine in your tapwater is killing the biobugs.
Use Aquasafe or Aquaplus.

I imagine if your dumping tapwater straight in it must be colder and
maybe
shocking the bugs, you need to stabilize temperature of the TREATED
water
you add in.

Lastly, a 5" long goldfish is way too big for a 10 gallon tank, I just
picked up
a brand new 38 gallon tank for 49$CDN, they also had a 65gallon tank
for 89$CDN.
If you are in the states I am sure you can get one for alot cheaper. Go
for it, I am
sure you won't regret it, and your 5" Bruizer will be very greatful...
....:)

....Kodiak


"Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
...
> Temp is ambient room temp cos got no heater in there, typically between
20 -
> 22 degrees
> Don't use any form of treatment for the water just straight from the tap.
> I've put some plastic plants in as suggested by Donald in the other thread
> to increase the surface area for bugs to grow on, I'll keep you posted
over
> the next couple of weeks.
>
> Cheers
> Martin
>
>
> "Kodiak" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I had a similar issue, took 9 weeks to cycle. I think doing excessive
> > water changes is good for the fish, but maybe dosen't allow biobugs to
> > build up to critical mass.
> >
> > Are you using dechlorinator or ageing your tapwater for your water
> changes?
> > What temp are you at? Did you try to crank up temp a bit?
> > I used Biozyme on two occasions. One time it didn't work,
> > the other time it did.
> >
> > ...Kodiak
> >
> > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk but
> > I;ll
> > > have a look after the holidays. We can get something called Stresszyme
> > > which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as well
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Martin
> > >
> > > > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to
> > drop
> > > and kill
> > > > the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
> > > > you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding
it.
> > it
> > > will cycle
> > > > in 4-5 days. Ingrid
> > > >
> > > > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Hi
> > > > >
> > > > >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long.
> Nothing
> > > else,
> > > > >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> > > > >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi
air
> in
> > > with
> > > > >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12
> > days
> > > > >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4
weeks
> > > > >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> > > > >
> > > > >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for
> the
> > > > >nitrite to spike and clear.
> > > > >
> > > > >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have
stabilised
> > > around
> > > > >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
> > > changes?
> > > > >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
> > > > >
> > > > >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the
nitrite
> > > should
> > > > >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thanks in anticipation
> > > > >
> > > > >Martin.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> > > > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> > > > www.drsolo.com
> > > > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> > > > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> > > > endorsements or recommendations I make.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[LoaderLady]

Are you on town water Martin, or well? I have well water and don't add
conditioners. Well water doesn't have added chlorine or chloramines, unless
you add it yourself. If you will drink your water, it should be safe for
fish. I'm not very experienced, but I don't like adding chemicals if I can
help it. Of course, I won't take Tylenol if I can avoid it either, and I
eat organic when I can (it's expensive!). But, that's just me.

--
}<> Tammy <>{
Support the Canakin Project with me, by linking to your favorite store from
this address:
http://www.geocities.com/ontario_canakin All Proceeds will be used to
purchase equipment, fish, etc for the Canakin Project

Watkins Business Opportunity
www.tsginfo.com Enter code TD3796
Me and my fish Thank You!!
"Kodiak" > wrote in message
.. .
> Martin,
> Get a heater and crank up temp to 25
> You absolutely must treat the tapwater before you dump in the tank.
> The chlorine and chloramine in your tapwater is killing the biobugs.
> Use Aquasafe or Aquaplus.
>
> I imagine if your dumping tapwater straight in it must be colder and
> maybe
> shocking the bugs, you need to stabilize temperature of the TREATED
> water
> you add in.
>
> Lastly, a 5" long goldfish is way too big for a 10 gallon tank, I
just
> picked up
> a brand new 38 gallon tank for 49$CDN, they also had a 65gallon tank
> for 89$CDN.
> If you are in the states I am sure you can get one for alot cheaper.
Go
> for it, I am
> sure you won't regret it, and your 5" Bruizer will be very
greatful...
> ...:)
>
> ...Kodiak
>
>
> "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Temp is ambient room temp cos got no heater in there, typically between
> 20 -
> > 22 degrees
> > Don't use any form of treatment for the water just straight from the
tap.
> > I've put some plastic plants in as suggested by Donald in the other
thread
> > to increase the surface area for bugs to grow on, I'll keep you posted
> over
> > the next couple of weeks.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Martin
> >
> >
> > "Kodiak" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > I had a similar issue, took 9 weeks to cycle. I think doing excessive
> > > water changes is good for the fish, but maybe dosen't allow biobugs to
> > > build up to critical mass.
> > >
> > > Are you using dechlorinator or ageing your tapwater for your water
> > changes?
> > > What temp are you at? Did you try to crank up temp a bit?
> > > I used Biozyme on two occasions. One time it didn't work,
> > > the other time it did.
> > >
> > > ...Kodiak
> > >
> > > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk
but
> > > I;ll
> > > > have a look after the holidays. We can get something called
Stresszyme
> > > > which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as
well
> > > >
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Martin
> > > >
> > > > > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH
to
> > > drop
> > > > and kill
> > > > > the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
> > > > > you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding
> it.
> > > it
> > > > will cycle
> > > > > in 4-5 days. Ingrid
> > > > >
> > > > > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >Hi
> > > > > >
> > > > > >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long.
> > Nothing
> > > > else,
> > > > > >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> > > > > >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi
> air
> > in
> > > > with
> > > > > >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After
12
> > > days
> > > > > >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4
> weeks
> > > > > >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited
for
> > the
> > > > > >nitrite to spike and clear.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have
> stabilised
> > > > around
> > > > > >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
> > > > changes?
> > > > > >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the
> nitrite
> > > > should
> > > > > >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Thanks in anticipation
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Martin.
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > > > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> > > > > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> > > > > www.drsolo.com
> > > > > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > > > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> > > > > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> > > > > endorsements or recommendations I make.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[Martin Bagshaw]

Like I said, I'm using water straight from thetap, I'll pick up some
conditioner and give it a go

25 degrees! isn't that bordering on tropical! will the fish stand it or
boil?

Finally re 5" and 10 gallon tank the 5" is including his tail fin which is a
bit long and fancy, do you include fins etc in the measurements? if not he's
only about 4"

Martin

"Kodiak" > wrote in message
...
> I had a similar issue, took 9 weeks to cycle. I think doing excessive
> water changes is good for the fish, but maybe dosen't allow biobugs to
> build up to critical mass.
>
> Are you using dechlorinator or ageing your tapwater for your water
changes?
> What temp are you at? Did you try to crank up temp a bit?
> I used Biozyme on two occasions. One time it didn't work,
> the other time it did.
>
> ...Kodiak
>
> "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Thanks for the response, not sure if we can get biospira in the uk but
> I;ll
> > have a look after the holidays. We can get something called Stresszyme
> > which I think does a similar job so i'll ask around about that as well
> >
> > Cheers
> > Martin
> >
> > > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > yeah, keep the nitrites barely detectable. nitrites cause the pH to
> drop
> > and kill
> > > the biofilter. any algae in the tank yet?
> > > you can also get biospira but do a big water change before adding it.
> it
> > will cycle
> > > in 4-5 days. Ingrid
> > >
> > > "Martin Bagshaw" > wrote:
> > >
> > > >Hi
> > > >
> > > >I have a 10 gallon tank with one gold fish in, approx 5" long.
Nothing
> > else,
> > > >no gravel plants or ornaments just the fish.
> > > >On 24th of October I put a Fluval 2 filter in, set up to venturi air
in
> > with
> > > >the outlet which has been running continuously ever since. After 12
> days
> > > >ammonia spiked at 4-5 ppm with nitrite around 0.25 ppm. After 4 weeks
> > > >ammonia was reading 0 ppm and nitrite 2 ppm.
> > > >
> > > >I continued to change around 10% of the water weekly and waited for
the
> > > >nitrite to spike and clear.
> > > >
> > > >We are now 9 weeks down the line and nitrite seems to have stabilised
> > around
> > > >1.5 - 2 ppm. What do I have to do to cycle the filter? more water
> > changes?
> > > >less water changes? supplementary water additives?
> > > >
> > > >The fish appears quite happy and is eating ok but I know the nitrite
> > should
> > > >be 0 so I'd like to get it down.
> > > >
> > > >Thanks in anticipation
> > > >
> > > >Martin.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> > > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> > > www.drsolo.com
> > > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> > > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> > > endorsements or recommendations I make.
> >
> >
>
>

[Geezer From Freezer]

Martin, typically fish are measured in body size, not tail.

When you pick up a water conditioner make sure it treats chlorine and
chloramine. 25degrees is perfectly safe for a goldfish (especially fancies)
Fancies actually prefer warmer water!!

[Martin Bagshaw]

"Martin Bagshaw" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Donald Kerns" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Martin Bagshaw wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Thanks for the response, the filter has two sponge elements in it,
> > > only a simple design so no where for additional media to go as far as
> > > I can see. I've got a couple of plastic plants I could put in, how
> > > would they effect the performance of the filter?
> >
> > The bio-buggies need a) food (NH3 & NO2) b) oxygen c) room to grow
> > (filter, tank walls, plants, etc).
> >
> > Your 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon tank is producing more ammonia (that
> > converts into nitrIte) than the current "bio-filtration" in your tank
> > can handle.
> >
> > Since it has been cycling forever, and is stuck in the nitrItes phase,
> > my posit is that there is not enough surface area for the NO2->NO3
> > biobugs.
> >
> > By adding plastic (or even live) plants you will increase the available
> > surface area... (Or batting in your filter or a 1/4 - 1/2 inch layer of
> > river rocks on the bottom of the tank...)
>
> OK that sounds reasonable to me, plastic plants went in this morning. I'll
> keep you posted
>
Stop Press!!!

9th January and a test shows 0 nitrite!!! looks like the plastic plants
worked!!

Thanks for all advice

Martin

[Donald Kerns]

Martin Bagshaw wrote:

>> > By adding plastic (or even live) plants you will increase the
>> > available surface area... (Or batting in your filter or a 1/4 - 1/2
>> > inch layer of river rocks on the bottom of the tank...)
>>
>> OK that sounds reasonable to me, plastic plants went in this morning.
>> I'll keep you posted
>>
> Stop Press!!!
>
> 9th January and a test shows 0 nitrite!!! looks like the plastic
> plants
> worked!!

Glad something worked for you. Can you post the chemical level vs date
for your cycle?

-D
--
"Faced with the choice between changing one's mind and proving
that there is no need to do so, almost everyone gets busy on the
proof." -Galbraith's Law

[nativelaw]

"Donald Kerns" > wrote in message
...
> Martin Bagshaw wrote:
>
> >> > By adding plastic (or even live) plants you will increase the
> >> > available surface area... (Or batting in your filter or a 1/4 - 1/2
> >> > inch layer of river rocks on the bottom of the tank...)
> >>
> >> OK that sounds reasonable to me, plastic plants went in this morning.
> >> I'll keep you posted
> >>
> > Stop Press!!!
> >
> > 9th January and a test shows 0 nitrite!!! looks like the plastic
> > plants
> > worked!!
>
> Glad something worked for you. Can you post the chemical level vs date
> for your cycle?
>
> -D

Hi, I read this with interest as I have been cycling my daughter's tank for
a few weeks now and the nitrate levels are fine, ammonia fine but nitrites
read dangerous within minutes from every water change. I have one inch and
a half koi in a 10g tank. Water is fine but hard and I use no chemicals
(don't like them.) I have read so many conflicting things about water
changes during cycling but have settled at a 40% water change about every
other day (I let the water sit for a day in between). I have a Whisper
filter used for a 10-30g tank which has both the carbon and spongey filters
in it. No air machine hooked up, though I bought one.

I plan to go to a 20gal tank and get another fish but I want to master this
cycling thing first. Does it take more than a month often?

My other primary dumb question: Is the brown stuff that grows on the filter
and the plastic plants the good bacteria needed for cycling, BTW? Nothing I
read ever described what it actually looked like and I thought at first it
was a fungus of sorts but now I am wondering if that's "the good stuff" that
means the tank is beginning to cycle.

I just added a couple of plastic plants based upon this post as well.

Thanks in advance,
Andrea

[[email protected]]

if you dont do water changes to keep the nitrites down, you will 1. kill the fish and
2. kill off the biobugs.
do as many water changes as needed to keep the nitrites just barely detectable and
add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no additives, dissolve first, add slowly.
the salt will help the fish.
the koi is going to need a pond.
hard water is good for koi and GF
get rid of the carbon, do get the aeration going
yes, it takes more than a month unless you can find BioSpira and use that AS
DIRECTED.
brown stuff is fine, leave it alone for now. if you have light on the tank it will
eventually be replaced by green algae, which is a very good thing.
http://puregold.aquaria.net/ cycling in the care section
http://puregold.aquaria.net/pg/care/care1.htm#essentials


>Hi, I read this with interest as I have been cycling my daughter's tank for
>a few weeks now and the nitrate levels are fine, ammonia fine but nitrites
>read dangerous within minutes from every water change. I have one inch and
>a half koi in a 10g tank. Water is fine but hard and I use no chemicals
>(don't like them.) I have read so many conflicting things about water
>changes during cycling but have settled at a 40% water change about every
>other day (I let the water sit for a day in between). I have a Whisper
>filter used for a 10-30g tank which has both the carbon and spongey filters
>in it. No air machine hooked up, though I bought one.
>
>I plan to go to a 20gal tank and get another fish but I want to master this
>cycling thing first. Does it take more than a month often?
>
>My other primary dumb question: Is the brown stuff that grows on the filter
>and the plastic plants the good bacteria needed for cycling, BTW? Nothing I
>read ever described what it actually looked like and I thought at first it
>was a fungus of sorts but now I am wondering if that's "the good stuff" that
>means the tank is beginning to cycle.
>
>I just added a couple of plastic plants based upon this post as well.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Andrea
>



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

[nativelaw]

> wrote in message
...
> if you dont do water changes to keep the nitrites down, you will 1. kill
the fish and
> 2. kill off the biobugs.
> do as many water changes as needed to keep the nitrites just barely
detectable and
> add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no additives, dissolve first, add
slowly.

Will regular eating salt work or do I need aquarium salt?

> the salt will help the fish.
> the koi is going to need a pond.

Hmm... maybe I should double check my breeds. I thought it was koi but
didn't realize koi need ponds. It's white and orange. Can you not keep a
koi in a tank indefinitely?

> hard water is good for koi and GF
> get rid of the carbon, do get the aeration going

The filter it came with is the usual Tetra filter with a white outside and
carbon packets inside. Are you saying leave out the carbon packets?

> yes, it takes more than a month unless you can find BioSpira and use that
AS
> DIRECTED.
> brown stuff is fine, leave it alone for now. if you have light on the
tank it will
> eventually be replaced by green algae, which is a very good thing.

I have a light but one of the bulbs keeps blowing.


> http://puregold.aquaria.net/ cycling in the care section
> http://puregold.aquaria.net/pg/care/care1.htm#essentials

Thanks for these links! I'll read up.
>
>
> >Hi, I read this with interest as I have been cycling my daughter's tank
for
> >a few weeks now and the nitrate levels are fine, ammonia fine but
nitrites
> >read dangerous within minutes from every water change. I have one inch
and
> >a half koi in a 10g tank. Water is fine but hard and I use no chemicals
> >(don't like them.) I have read so many conflicting things about water
> >changes during cycling but have settled at a 40% water change about every
> >other day (I let the water sit for a day in between). I have a Whisper
> >filter used for a 10-30g tank which has both the carbon and spongey
filters
> >in it. No air machine hooked up, though I bought one.
> >
> >I plan to go to a 20gal tank and get another fish but I want to master
this
> >cycling thing first. Does it take more than a month often?
> >
> >My other primary dumb question: Is the brown stuff that grows on the
filter
> >and the plastic plants the good bacteria needed for cycling, BTW?
Nothing I
> >read ever described what it actually looked like and I thought at first
it
> >was a fungus of sorts but now I am wondering if that's "the good stuff"
that
> >means the tank is beginning to cycle.
> >
> >I just added a couple of plastic plants based upon this post as well.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Andrea
> >
>
>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> www.drsolo.com
> Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> endorsements or recommendations I make.

[Mel]

Don't use just regular cooking salt unless it has absolutely nothing else
added to it. Most salts bought for food consumption have anti caking agents
etc in them which should be avoided. Aquarium salt can be bought from most
pet shops and fish shops.
Mel.
"nativelaw" > wrote in message
...
>
>
>
> > wrote in message
> ...
> > if you dont do water changes to keep the nitrites down, you will 1. kill
> the fish and
> > 2. kill off the biobugs.
> > do as many water changes as needed to keep the nitrites just barely
> detectable and
> > add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no additives, dissolve first, add
> slowly.
>
> Will regular eating salt work or do I need aquarium salt?
>
> > the salt will help the fish.
> > the koi is going to need a pond.
>
> Hmm... maybe I should double check my breeds. I thought it was koi but
> didn't realize koi need ponds. It's white and orange. Can you not keep a
> koi in a tank indefinitely?
>
> > hard water is good for koi and GF
> > get rid of the carbon, do get the aeration going
>
> The filter it came with is the usual Tetra filter with a white outside and
> carbon packets inside. Are you saying leave out the carbon packets?
>
> > yes, it takes more than a month unless you can find BioSpira and use
that
> AS
> > DIRECTED.
> > brown stuff is fine, leave it alone for now. if you have light on the
> tank it will
> > eventually be replaced by green algae, which is a very good thing.
>
> I have a light but one of the bulbs keeps blowing.
>
>
> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/ cycling in the care section
> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/pg/care/care1.htm#essentials
>
> Thanks for these links! I'll read up.
> >
> >
> > >Hi, I read this with interest as I have been cycling my daughter's tank
> for
> > >a few weeks now and the nitrate levels are fine, ammonia fine but
> nitrites
> > >read dangerous within minutes from every water change. I have one inch
> and
> > >a half koi in a 10g tank. Water is fine but hard and I use no
chemicals
> > >(don't like them.) I have read so many conflicting things about water
> > >changes during cycling but have settled at a 40% water change about
every
> > >other day (I let the water sit for a day in between). I have a Whisper
> > >filter used for a 10-30g tank which has both the carbon and spongey
> filters
> > >in it. No air machine hooked up, though I bought one.
> > >
> > >I plan to go to a 20gal tank and get another fish but I want to master
> this
> > >cycling thing first. Does it take more than a month often?
> > >
> > >My other primary dumb question: Is the brown stuff that grows on the
> filter
> > >and the plastic plants the good bacteria needed for cycling, BTW?
> Nothing I
> > >read ever described what it actually looked like and I thought at first
> it
> > >was a fungus of sorts but now I am wondering if that's "the good stuff"
> that
> > >means the tank is beginning to cycle.
> > >
> > >I just added a couple of plastic plants based upon this post as well.
> > >
> > >Thanks in advance,
> > >Andrea
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> > www.drsolo.com
> > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> > endorsements or recommendations I make.
>
>

[nativelaw]

"Mel" > wrote in message
...
> Don't use just regular cooking salt unless it has absolutely nothing else
> added to it. Most salts bought for food consumption have anti caking
agents
> etc in them which should be avoided. Aquarium salt can be bought from most
> pet shops and fish shops.
> Mel.
> "nativelaw" > wrote in message
> ...
> >

Thanks Mel.

BTW I think the kind of fish I actually bought my daughter is not a koi but
a redcap Oranda.

<sheesh>

You'd think I'da paid attention : ).

At least I don't have to worry about a pond.

[nativelaw]

--
---
"nativelaw" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> "Mel" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Don't use just regular cooking salt unless it has absolutely nothing
else
> > added to it. Most salts bought for food consumption have anti caking
> agents
> > etc in them which should be avoided. Aquarium salt can be bought from
most
> > pet shops and fish shops.
> > Mel.
> > "nativelaw" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > >
>
> Thanks Mel.
>
> BTW I think the kind of fish I actually bought my daughter is not a koi
but
> a redcap Oranda.


Oops. No, that isn't right either. It looks just like a redcap Oranda but
without the warty head growth <g>. I give up, I can't remember and I can't
seem to find a picture that looks like this one.

Sorry for the rambling.

[[email protected]]

or water softening salt.

"Mel" > wrote:

>Don't use just regular cooking salt unless it has absolutely nothing else
>added to it. Most salts bought for food consumption have anti caking agents
>etc in them which should be avoided. Aquarium salt can be bought from most
>pet shops and fish shops.
>Mel.
>"nativelaw" > wrote in message
...
>>
>>
>>
>> > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > if you dont do water changes to keep the nitrites down, you will 1. kill
>> the fish and
>> > 2. kill off the biobugs.
>> > do as many water changes as needed to keep the nitrites just barely
>> detectable and
>> > add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no additives, dissolve first, add
>> slowly.
>>
>> Will regular eating salt work or do I need aquarium salt?
>>
>> > the salt will help the fish.
>> > the koi is going to need a pond.
>>
>> Hmm... maybe I should double check my breeds. I thought it was koi but
>> didn't realize koi need ponds. It's white and orange. Can you not keep a
>> koi in a tank indefinitely?
>>
>> > hard water is good for koi and GF
>> > get rid of the carbon, do get the aeration going
>>
>> The filter it came with is the usual Tetra filter with a white outside and
>> carbon packets inside. Are you saying leave out the carbon packets?
>>
>> > yes, it takes more than a month unless you can find BioSpira and use
>that
>> AS
>> > DIRECTED.
>> > brown stuff is fine, leave it alone for now. if you have light on the
>> tank it will
>> > eventually be replaced by green algae, which is a very good thing.
>>
>> I have a light but one of the bulbs keeps blowing.
>>
>>
>> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/ cycling in the care section
>> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/pg/care/care1.htm#essentials
>>
>> Thanks for these links! I'll read up.
>> >
>> >
>> > >Hi, I read this with interest as I have been cycling my daughter's tank
>> for
>> > >a few weeks now and the nitrate levels are fine, ammonia fine but
>> nitrites
>> > >read dangerous within minutes from every water change. I have one inch
>> and
>> > >a half koi in a 10g tank. Water is fine but hard and I use no
>chemicals
>> > >(don't like them.) I have read so many conflicting things about water
>> > >changes during cycling but have settled at a 40% water change about
>every
>> > >other day (I let the water sit for a day in between). I have a Whisper
>> > >filter used for a 10-30g tank which has both the carbon and spongey
>> filters
>> > >in it. No air machine hooked up, though I bought one.
>> > >
>> > >I plan to go to a 20gal tank and get another fish but I want to master
>> this
>> > >cycling thing first. Does it take more than a month often?
>> > >
>> > >My other primary dumb question: Is the brown stuff that grows on the
>> filter
>> > >and the plastic plants the good bacteria needed for cycling, BTW?
>> Nothing I
>> > >read ever described what it actually looked like and I thought at first
>> it
>> > >was a fungus of sorts but now I am wondering if that's "the good stuff"
>> that
>> > >means the tank is beginning to cycle.
>> > >
>> > >I just added a couple of plastic plants based upon this post as well.
>> > >
>> > >Thanks in advance,
>> > >Andrea
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> > List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
>> > http://puregold.aquaria.net/
>> > www.drsolo.com
>> > Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
>> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> > Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
>> > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
>> > endorsements or recommendations I make.
>>
>>
>



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

[Kodiak]

Over 1 month is normal, Don't feel bad, i have a 220gal
and changing 30% every day since day 22, I am on day 30
now and still reading 0.5ppm to 1ppm of Nitrites. The salt will
help the fish deal with the stress that Nitrite causes them.
My grocery store sells pickling salt that is non-iodized,
pure with no additives, much cheaper than the pet store.
I hover at 0.05 to 0.1% salt, that is about 1/2 to 1 tblspoon
per 5gal.

Just keep doing those water changes, for the longest time it will
seem like nothing is happening, then when things start to change
it will all clear up in 1 to 2 days after. It once took 8 weeks for
my 90gal, but I think my temp was too low (mid 60's).

....Kodiak




"nativelaw" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> "Donald Kerns" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Martin Bagshaw wrote:
> >
> > >> > By adding plastic (or even live) plants you will increase the
> > >> > available surface area... (Or batting in your filter or a 1/4 - 1/2
> > >> > inch layer of river rocks on the bottom of the tank...)
> > >>
> > >> OK that sounds reasonable to me, plastic plants went in this morning.
> > >> I'll keep you posted
> > >>
> > > Stop Press!!!
> > >
> > > 9th January and a test shows 0 nitrite!!! looks like the plastic
> > > plants
> > > worked!!
> >
> > Glad something worked for you. Can you post the chemical level vs date
> > for your cycle?
> >
> > -D
>
> Hi, I read this with interest as I have been cycling my daughter's tank
for
> a few weeks now and the nitrate levels are fine, ammonia fine but nitrites
> read dangerous within minutes from every water change. I have one inch
and
> a half koi in a 10g tank. Water is fine but hard and I use no chemicals
> (don't like them.) I have read so many conflicting things about water
> changes during cycling but have settled at a 40% water change about every
> other day (I let the water sit for a day in between). I have a Whisper
> filter used for a 10-30g tank which has both the carbon and spongey
filters
> in it. No air machine hooked up, though I bought one.
>
> I plan to go to a 20gal tank and get another fish but I want to master
this
> cycling thing first. Does it take more than a month often?
>
> My other primary dumb question: Is the brown stuff that grows on the
filter
> and the plastic plants the good bacteria needed for cycling, BTW? Nothing
I
> read ever described what it actually looked like and I thought at first it
> was a fungus of sorts but now I am wondering if that's "the good stuff"
that
> means the tank is beginning to cycle.
>
> I just added a couple of plastic plants based upon this post as well.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andrea
>
>

[nativelaw]

"Kodiak" > wrote in message
.. .
> Over 1 month is normal, Don't feel bad, i have a 220gal
> and changing 30% every day since day 22, I am on day 30
> now and still reading 0.5ppm to 1ppm of Nitrites. The salt will
> help the fish deal with the stress that Nitrite causes them.
> My grocery store sells pickling salt that is non-iodized,
> pure with no additives, much cheaper than the pet store.
> I hover at 0.05 to 0.1% salt, that is about 1/2 to 1 tblspoon
> per 5gal.
>
> Just keep doing those water changes, for the longest time it will
> seem like nothing is happening, then when things start to change
> it will all clear up in 1 to 2 days after. It once took 8 weeks for
> my 90gal, but I think my temp was too low (mid 60's).
>
> ...Kodiak

Thank you; now that you mentioned temperature, I was wondering about that,
too. I did not buy a heater for the tank; I plan to go out and get one, as
the tank has been about a constant 68-70 degrees and I am getting the clear
sense from reading here that during the cycling stage it should be higher.
I will go out and buy a heater and keep it around 75, and add some salt and
hopefully that will do the trick. Also I think I need to replace the tank
hood because the one I bought, the right bulb keeps dying within a day or
two after replacement and I'm sure the greater light would help too.

Thanks again,
Andrea

[Kodiak]

OK, but don't go above 75, although it's better for the biobugs,
warmer water holds less oxygen, and fish are already oxygen
compromised because of the Nitrite. Make sure you have a
big air stone in the tank.

....Kodiak

"nativelaw" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> "Kodiak" > wrote in message
> .. .
> > Over 1 month is normal, Don't feel bad, i have a 220gal
> > and changing 30% every day since day 22, I am on day 30
> > now and still reading 0.5ppm to 1ppm of Nitrites. The salt will
> > help the fish deal with the stress that Nitrite causes them.
> > My grocery store sells pickling salt that is non-iodized,
> > pure with no additives, much cheaper than the pet store.
> > I hover at 0.05 to 0.1% salt, that is about 1/2 to 1 tblspoon
> > per 5gal.
> >
> > Just keep doing those water changes, for the longest time it will
> > seem like nothing is happening, then when things start to change
> > it will all clear up in 1 to 2 days after. It once took 8 weeks for
> > my 90gal, but I think my temp was too low (mid 60's).
> >
> > ...Kodiak
>
> Thank you; now that you mentioned temperature, I was wondering about that,
> too. I did not buy a heater for the tank; I plan to go out and get one,
as
> the tank has been about a constant 68-70 degrees and I am getting the
clear
> sense from reading here that during the cycling stage it should be higher.
> I will go out and buy a heater and keep it around 75, and add some salt
and
> hopefully that will do the trick. Also I think I need to replace the tank
> hood because the one I bought, the right bulb keeps dying within a day or
> two after replacement and I'm sure the greater light would help too.
>
> Thanks again,
> Andrea
>
>

[nativelaw]

"Kodiak" > wrote in message
...
> OK, but don't go above 75, although it's better for the biobugs,
> warmer water holds less oxygen, and fish are already oxygen
> compromised because of the Nitrite. Make sure you have a
> big air stone in the tank.
>
> ...Kodiak

Air stone? I have two aquarium rocks (really I think they're ceramic
configurations...) I'll look up "air stone."
Tks.
Andrea