View Full Version : Various Symptoms
dan-tucker
December 29th 03, 10:28 AM
Hi,
We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to fall ill
overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the dorsal fin was
flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very restricted
movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before righting
itself again.
We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to which
there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder treatment
which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has not helped
in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged. The fish
will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing symptoms of
Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm not sure
whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current condition.
The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
Thanks in advance for any help received
dan...
Mel
December 29th 03, 11:46 AM
How long have you had the fish and have you introduced anything new to the
tank at all? Also, what size is the tank and what is your maintenance
schedule with it?
The very first thing you should do is test for ammonia, nitrite, and
nitrates in the original tank and the bowl the fish is in now. (Incidently a
bowl is not a good environment for a goldfish especially when he/she is
ill). If you don't have kits to test for this you can either buy them which
is a good investement, or take a sample of your water to your lfs who will
test it for you. Take a pen and paper and get the exact results and write
them down, then post them here. Don't take what the employee says as gospel
as their advise isn't always correct and they are more interested in making
money than the welfare of the fish in most cases.
Mel.
"dan-tucker" > wrote in message
...
> Hi,
>
> We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to fall ill
> overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the dorsal fin
was
> flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very restricted
> movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before righting
> itself again.
>
> We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to which
> there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder
treatment
> which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has not
helped
> in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged. The
fish
> will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
> www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing symptoms
of
> Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm not
sure
> whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current
condition.
>
> The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
>
> Thanks in advance for any help received
>
> dan...
>
>
dan-tucker
December 29th 03, 12:10 PM
Hi Mel, thanks for your reply.
I have had the fish for 2 years and nothing new has been introduced to the
tank recently. The tank is round, 24cm in diameter and 17cm high. I replace
the water with tap water that has been left out overnight, once every 10 to
14 days on average.
I do not own a test kit but will see if my local pet store will test some
water for me, so I can post some results.
In your experience, if the problem can be diagnosed and treated, is a fish
able to recover from the symptoms I described below? The tail is now very
badly rotten although the breathing and balance problems do not appear to
have worsened
Thanks
dan...
"Mel" > wrote in message
...
> How long have you had the fish and have you introduced anything new to
the
> tank at all? Also, what size is the tank and what is your maintenance
> schedule with it?
> The very first thing you should do is test for ammonia, nitrite, and
> nitrates in the original tank and the bowl the fish is in now. (Incidently
a
> bowl is not a good environment for a goldfish especially when he/she is
> ill). If you don't have kits to test for this you can either buy them
which
> is a good investement, or take a sample of your water to your lfs who will
> test it for you. Take a pen and paper and get the exact results and write
> them down, then post them here. Don't take what the employee says as
gospel
> as their advise isn't always correct and they are more interested in
making
> money than the welfare of the fish in most cases.
> Mel.
>
>
>
> "dan-tucker" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi,
> >
> > We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to fall
ill
> > overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the dorsal
fin
> was
> > flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very
restricted
> > movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before
righting
> > itself again.
> >
> > We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to
which
> > there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder
> treatment
> > which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has not
> helped
> > in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged. The
> fish
> > will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
> > www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing
symptoms
> of
> > Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm not
> sure
> > whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current
> condition.
> >
> > The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help received
> >
> > dan...
> >
> >
>
>
Carlos
December 29th 03, 01:06 PM
You did correct in putting the fish into another tank to treat it.
Antibiotics will kill the bacteria in a comunity tank, bringing havoc.
Water pollution is the main concern for disease in fish. It brings about
everything into them. You did right in putting the fish out and with new
water, but this can also bring stress to the fish. Due to the many
conditions of this fish I will advise inmediate care with medications,
1. tail rot : can be bacterial or fungal, bacterial is just ragged fins,
fungal ragged fins and a white line around the edge, recommended treatment:
TC capsules for the first or Fungus cure for the last, both if it has both
and its not uncommon to see both at the same time.
2. gill disease : bacterial : fish are seen gasping and very red gills,
parasitic in addition to the above very small white gill worms can be seen,
if its bacterial NALA gram or EM tablets or Furan 2, parasitic I believe
there is no cure.
3. Clamped fins I believe is due to the tail and fin rot.
4. Swim bladder problems maybe due to the poor condition of this fish.
Advice and only if its in your heart (I read this in a book once and thank
God I never had to do it): If you see this fish with no response in a few
days or so, then and only then you should do euthanasia.
How to do it: Put the fish in a container with water, and placed it in the
freezer. The fish metabolism will slow down slowly and stop. The humane
thing about this is that the fish will not suffer, you will find it upright
and not in a contorted position.
I hope this helps.
"dan-tucker" > wrote in message
...
> Hi,
>
> We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to fall ill
> overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the dorsal fin
was
> flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very restricted
> movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before righting
> itself again.
>
> We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to which
> there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder treatment
> which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has not helped
> in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged. The
fish
> will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
> www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing symptoms of
> Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm not
sure
> whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current condition.
>
> The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
>
> Thanks in advance for any help received
>
> dan...
>
>
Toni
December 29th 03, 06:59 PM
"dan-tucker" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Mel, thanks for your reply.
>
> I have had the fish for 2 years and nothing new has been introduced to the
> tank recently. The tank is round, 24cm in diameter and 17cm high. I
replace
> the water with tap water that has been left out overnight, once every 10
to
> 14 days on average.
>
I would recommend a *much* larger "tank" and much more frequent water
changes..
Not to be too critical, but that size container is no place for goldfish.
It's a miracle they've survived as long as they have.
--
Toni <sigh...>
http://www.cearbhaill.com/goldfish.htm
Mel
December 29th 03, 10:33 PM
Given the right conditions a goldfish can often make a miraculous recovery
even when they look in a really bad state so don't give up on him yet.
From what you've said I really think that your problem stems from poor
water quality. It sounds as if the fish are in severely cramped conditions
(each goldfish should have a minimum of 10 gallons of water each to stay
happy and healthy), and in conditions such as these the water quickly
becomes polluted, literally poisoning the fish. In an adequately sized tank,
because of the volume of water this doesn't happen as long as regular
partial water changes are carried out.
In a tank the size of yours it would be impossible to keep the water
quality perfect, but to try to improve things for the fish, start doing 50%
water changes (with temperature matched, dechlorinated water) daily in the
original tank and the bowl the sick fish is in. This will dilute any toxins
in the water. Buy yourself a gravel vacuum too (not very expensive) and
vacuum the gravel throughly each time you do a water change as this will
improve your water quality. If you try to get the water quality as perfect
as you can your fish will be much better prepared to fight their ailments.
Test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates as suggested before as this will let
you know how your water quality really is. Ammonia should always be at 0,
nitrite at 0 and nitrate below 20. Anything above this isn't safe for the
fish.
I'd also add some salt (aquarium salt) to both tanks as this will make
things easier for the fish and help aid healing and stop infection. Adding
medications at the moment probably isn't a good idea as the water quality
should be your main concern and getting this right will probably improve
things no end anyway. Add the salt at a rate of 3 tablespoons per every 5
gallons of water and remember to replace the appropriate amount of salt with
each water change. So for example, if you remove and replace 5 gallons of
water, add another 3 tablespoons of salt. (Dissolve the salt in a little
tank water before adding).
If you don't have one already get a filter (a fluval one would be good) as
these really are a must with goldfish. You should aim to turn the volume of
your water over 8-10 times per hour)and add an airstone to add extra oxygen
too.
Mel.
"dan-tucker" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Mel, thanks for your reply.
>
> I have had the fish for 2 years and nothing new has been introduced to
the
> tank recently. The tank is round, 24cm in diameter and 17cm high. I
replace
> the water with tap water that has been left out overnight, once every 10
to
> 14 days on average.
>
> I do not own a test kit but will see if my local pet store will test
some
> water for me, so I can post some results.
>
> In your experience, if the problem can be diagnosed and treated, is a
fish
> able to recover from the symptoms I described below? The tail is now
very
> badly rotten although the breathing and balance problems do not appear
to
> have worsened
>
> Thanks
> dan...
>
> "Mel" > wrote in message
> ...
> > How long have you had the fish and have you introduced anything new
to
> the
> > tank at all? Also, what size is the tank and what is your maintenance
> > schedule with it?
> > The very first thing you should do is test for ammonia, nitrite, and
> > nitrates in the original tank and the bowl the fish is in now.
(Incidently
> a
> > bowl is not a good environment for a goldfish especially when he/she
is
> > ill). If you don't have kits to test for this you can either buy them
> which
> > is a good investement, or take a sample of your water to your lfs who
will
> > test it for you. Take a pen and paper and get the exact results and
write
> > them down, then post them here. Don't take what the employee says as
> gospel
> > as their advise isn't always correct and they are more interested in
> making
> > money than the welfare of the fish in most cases.
> > Mel.
> >
> >
> >
> > "dan-tucker" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to
fall
> ill
> > > overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the
dorsal
> fin
> > was
> > > flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very
> restricted
> > > movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before
> righting
> > > itself again.
> > >
> > > We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to
> which
> > > there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder
> > treatment
> > > which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has
not
> > helped
> > > in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged.
The
> > fish
> > > will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
> > > www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing
> symptoms
> > of
> > > Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm
not
> > sure
> > > whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current
> > condition.
> > >
> > > The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for any help received
> > >
> > > dan...
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
December 30th 03, 01:02 AM
http://users.megapathdsl.net/~solo/puregold/disease/treatment/trtmnt.htm#TUB_TO_TUB
move the fish to fresh water every day. add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no
additives, dissolve first before adding fish. red gills are good, bright cherry red
is best. yes, it sounds like toxic water.
http://users.megapathdsl.net/~solo/puregold/home.html
Ingrid
"dan-tucker" > wrote:
>Hi,
>
>We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to fall ill
>overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the dorsal fin was
>flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very restricted
>movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before righting
>itself again.
>
>We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to which
>there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder treatment
>which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has not helped
>in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged. The fish
>will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
>www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing symptoms of
>Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm not sure
>whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current condition.
>
>The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
>
>Thanks in advance for any help received
>
>dan...
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
December 30th 03, 01:08 AM
95% of the time tail rot is due to crappy water conditions. especially if there is
no flashing which indicates a parasite of some kind.
healthy gills are bright cherry red.
98% of clamped fins is due to crappy water conditions.
authentic swim bladder problems are rare and are believed to be caused by toxic
crappy water problems and/or toxins destroying the head kidney.
dumping medications into the water without knowing what the real problem is (95% of
the time the problem is crappy water) simply adds toxic chemicals to water that is
already toxic which leads to dead fish faster than they would have without the
"medications". Most medications in the typical LFS are totally useless.
Ingrid
"Carlos" > wrote:
>1. tail rot :
>2. gill disease : bacterial : fish are seen gasping and very red gills,
>3. Clamped fins I believe is due to the tail and fin rot.
>4. Swim bladder problems maybe due to the poor condition of this fish.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
Azul
December 30th 03, 01:24 AM
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:33:48 -0000, "Mel" > wrote:
>
> Given the right conditions a goldfish can often make a miraculous recovery
>even when they look in a really bad state so don't give up on him yet.
> From what you've said I really think that your problem stems from poor
>water quality. It sounds as if the fish are in severely cramped conditions
>(each goldfish should have a minimum of 10 gallons of water each to stay
>happy and healthy), and in conditions such as these the water quickly
>becomes polluted, literally poisoning the fish. In an adequately sized tank,
>because of the volume of water this doesn't happen as long as regular
>partial water changes are carried out.
> In a tank the size of yours it would be impossible to keep the water
>quality perfect, but to try to improve things for the fish, start doing 50%
>water changes (with temperature matched, dechlorinated water) daily in the
>original tank and the bowl the sick fish is in. This will dilute any toxins
>in the water. Buy yourself a gravel vacuum too (not very expensive) and
>vacuum the gravel throughly each time you do a water change as this will
>improve your water quality. If you try to get the water quality as perfect
>as you can your fish will be much better prepared to fight their ailments.
>Test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates as suggested before as this will let
>you know how your water quality really is. Ammonia should always be at 0,
>nitrite at 0 and nitrate below 20. Anything above this isn't safe for the
>fish.
> I'd also add some salt (aquarium salt) to both tanks as this will make
>things easier for the fish and help aid healing and stop infection. Adding
>medications at the moment probably isn't a good idea as the water quality
>should be your main concern and getting this right will probably improve
>things no end anyway. Add the salt at a rate of 3 tablespoons per every 5
>gallons of water and remember to replace the appropriate amount of salt with
>each water change. So for example, if you remove and replace 5 gallons of
>water, add another 3 tablespoons of salt. (Dissolve the salt in a little
>tank water before adding).
> If you don't have one already get a filter (a fluval one would be good) as
>these really are a must with goldfish. You should aim to turn the volume of
>your water over 8-10 times per hour)and add an airstone to add extra oxygen
>too.
> Mel.
>
> "dan-tucker" > wrote in message
...
> > Hi Mel, thanks for your reply.
> >
> > I have had the fish for 2 years and nothing new has been introduced to
>the
> > tank recently. The tank is round, 24cm in diameter and 17cm high. I
>replace
> > the water with tap water that has been left out overnight, once every 10
>to
> > 14 days on average.
> >
> > I do not own a test kit but will see if my local pet store will test
>some
> > water for me, so I can post some results.
> >
> > In your experience, if the problem can be diagnosed and treated, is a
>fish
> > able to recover from the symptoms I described below? The tail is now
>very
> > badly rotten although the breathing and balance problems do not appear
>to
> > have worsened
> >
> > Thanks
> > dan...
> >
> > "Mel" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > How long have you had the fish and have you introduced anything new
>to
> > the
> > > tank at all? Also, what size is the tank and what is your maintenance
> > > schedule with it?
> > > The very first thing you should do is test for ammonia, nitrite, and
> > > nitrates in the original tank and the bowl the fish is in now.
>(Incidently
> > a
> > > bowl is not a good environment for a goldfish especially when he/she
>is
> > > ill). If you don't have kits to test for this you can either buy them
> > which
> > > is a good investement, or take a sample of your water to your lfs who
>will
> > > test it for you. Take a pen and paper and get the exact results and
>write
> > > them down, then post them here. Don't take what the employee says as
> > gospel
> > > as their advise isn't always correct and they are more interested in
> > making
> > > money than the welfare of the fish in most cases.
> > > Mel.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "dan-tucker" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > We own two goldfish and on Christmas Eve one of them seemed to
>fall
> > ill
> > > > overnight. The head became swollen, the gills red inside, the
>dorsal
> > fin
> > > was
> > > > flat to the body and the tail was clamped. The fish has very
> > restricted
> > > > movement and often falls over onto it's side momentarily before
> > righting
> > > > itself again.
> > > >
> > > > We immediately moved it to some fresh water in a separate bowl, to
> > which
> > > > there was a very slight improvement. We bought some swimbladder
> > > treatment
> > > > which we have administered with some aquarium salt but this has
>not
> > > helped
> > > > in the slightest. Now the tail is rotting and appears very ragged.
>The
> > > fish
> > > > will still eat if food is held sufficiently close for it to take
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone have any suggestions please as from looking at the
> > > > www.goldfishinfo.com diagnostic guide it appears to be showing
> > symptoms
> > > of
> > > > Gill Flukes, Clamped Fins, Tail Rot and Swim Bladder problems. I'm
>not
> > > sure
> > > > whether I am able to effectively treat the fish in it's current
> > > condition.
> > > >
> > > > The other goldfish has been absolutely fine
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance for any help received
> > > >
> > > > dan...
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Azul
Azul
December 30th 03, 01:29 AM
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:33:48 -0000, "Mel" > wrote:
> Add the salt at a rate of 3 tablespoons per every 5
>gallons of water and remember to replace the appropriate amount of salt with
>each water change. So for example, if you remove and replace 5 gallons of
>water, add another 3 tablespoons of salt. (Dissolve the salt in a little
>tank water before adding).
Hi Mel,
I believe that is too much salt. Here is a quote from Ingrid's
Puregold site.
"A solution of one teaspoon per gallon is 0.132% salt. So 1 tablespoon
per 5 gallons is around 0.1%
A LOW concentration is up to 0.1%. This concentration will not hurt
most plants and is what is typically used in ponds and tanks. Addition
to fresh water is done over 3 days."
Hope this helps everyone.
Azul
Azul
December 30th 03, 02:48 AM
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:02:35 GMT, wrote:
>add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no
Is there a reason for the discrepancy between what you are saying here
and your website info?
"So 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons is around 0.1%"
Azul
Mel
December 30th 03, 11:38 AM
3 tablespoons per 5 gallons is a 0.3% solution and I use it at this
strength if I ever have any problems with no bad affects on the fancy
goldies at all. As long as you add it gradually the bio-bugs never seem to
be affected, although it probably will kill plants. I remove mine to a
seperate bucket just in case. You can actually kill ich by using a salt
solution at this strength for 2 weeks with no ich meds at all. It also helps
a lot of other problems.
Mel.
"Azul" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:33:48 -0000, "Mel" > wrote:
>
> > Add the salt at a rate of 3 tablespoons per every 5
> >gallons of water and remember to replace the appropriate amount of salt
with
> >each water change. So for example, if you remove and replace 5 gallons
of
> >water, add another 3 tablespoons of salt. (Dissolve the salt in a
little
> >tank water before adding).
>
> Hi Mel,
>
> I believe that is too much salt. Here is a quote from Ingrid's
> Puregold site.
>
> "A solution of one teaspoon per gallon is 0.132% salt. So 1 tablespoon
> per 5 gallons is around 0.1%
> A LOW concentration is up to 0.1%. This concentration will not hurt
> most plants and is what is typically used in ponds and tanks. Addition
> to fresh water is done over 3 days."
>
> Hope this helps everyone.
>
>
>
> Azul
December 30th 03, 03:12 PM
anything greater than 0.1% should be used short term, 0.3% can cause tail shredding
and burns when used for longer than a couple days. It does work with ich, but I am
unconvinced it treats anything else. Ingrid
"Mel" > wrote:
> 3 tablespoons per 5 gallons is a 0.3% solution and I use it at this
>strength if I ever have any problems with no bad affects on the fancy
>goldies at all. As long as you add it gradually the bio-bugs never seem to
>be affected, although it probably will kill plants. I remove mine to a
>seperate bucket just in case. You can actually kill ich by using a salt
>solution at this strength for 2 weeks with no ich meds at all. It also helps
>a lot of other problems.
> Mel.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
December 30th 03, 03:14 PM
start with small amounts work up. fish with no salt will typically start blowing off
quite a bit of ammonia when the salt is run up to 0.1%. for somebody trying to deal
with toxic water, this isnt a good idea.. Ingrid
Azul > wrote:
>On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:02:35 GMT, wrote:
>
>>add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no
>
>Is there a reason for the discrepancy between what you are saying here
>and your website info?
>
>"So 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons is around 0.1%"
>
>Azul
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
Carlos
December 30th 03, 08:59 PM
so to clear things up.......? how much salt?
> wrote in message
...
> start with small amounts work up. fish with no salt will typically start
blowing off
> quite a bit of ammonia when the salt is run up to 0.1%. for somebody
trying to deal
> with toxic water, this isnt a good idea.. Ingrid
>
> Azul > wrote:
>
> >On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:02:35 GMT, wrote:
> >
> >>add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no
> >
> >Is there a reason for the discrepancy between what you are saying here
> >and your website info?
> >
> >"So 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons is around 0.1%"
> >
> >Azul
>
>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
> http://puregold.aquaria.net/
> www.drsolo.com
> Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
> compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
> endorsements or recommendations I make.
December 30th 03, 11:22 PM
1 tsp per 5 gallons work up to 3 teaspoons per 5. Ingrid
"Carlos" > wrote:
>so to clear things up.......? how much salt?
>
>
> wrote in message
...
>> start with small amounts work up. fish with no salt will typically start
>blowing off
>> quite a bit of ammonia when the salt is run up to 0.1%. for somebody
>trying to deal
>> with toxic water, this isnt a good idea.. Ingrid
>>
>> Azul > wrote:
>>
>> >On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:02:35 GMT, wrote:
>> >
>> >>add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons, no
>> >
>> >Is there a reason for the discrepancy between what you are saying here
>> >and your website info?
>> >
>> >"So 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons is around 0.1%"
>> >
>> >Azul
>>
>>
>>
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
>> http://puregold.aquaria.net/
>> www.drsolo.com
>> Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
>> compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
>> endorsements or recommendations I make.
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
suzicreamcheese
January 1st 04, 11:55 PM
You won't believe this but I have a fancy-finned goldfish that will
display swim bladder symptoms if I feed him anything but frozen
veggies (thawed, of course). When he first showed symptoms I did a web
search and found out about the frozen pea trick - you feed the fish a
thawed, well cut up frozen pea(discard the pea's outer shell first).
Then you can also fast a day or two.
The pea worked. Problem is - whenever I gave the fish regular food
or thawed bloodworms or brine he would stay at the top or bottom and
show signs of bladder imbalance. As long as I keep him on veggies he
is fine and swims happily. Can you believe?
SuziCreamCheese - and PS, water quality is not an issue with me. I
maintain many tanks and have years of experience!
Vissy Dartae
January 2nd 04, 04:40 AM
(suzicreamcheese) wrote in message >...
> You won't believe this but I have a fancy-finned goldfish that will
> display swim bladder symptoms if I feed him anything but frozen
> veggies (thawed, of course).
This is almost certainly constipation, not swim bladder. Constipation
is real common in fancies because of their short fat round bodies--
the digestive organs aren't as efficient because of the shape they are
confined in. There are lots of opinions on how to treat it.
Some other options: No food one day/week; alternate the types of food
regularly between veggies and other stuff; try feeding just once a
day. Keep feeding those veggies if they keep him normal.
Also watch out for high nitrates-- they can cause floating issues.
Good luck.
it is the amount that is usually a problem. extremely tiny amounts will not cause
floatiness. most people feed fish like they were large animals. but they dont
require anywhere near the amount of food most people are feeding. and wet food
really helps with floaters, as does warm water. INgrid
(suzicreamcheese) wrote:
>You won't believe this but I have a fancy-finned goldfish that will
>display swim bladder symptoms if I feed him anything but frozen
>veggies (thawed, of course). When he first showed symptoms I did a web
>search and found out about the frozen pea trick - you feed the fish a
>thawed, well cut up frozen pea(discard the pea's outer shell first).
>Then you can also fast a day or two.
> The pea worked. Problem is - whenever I gave the fish regular food
>or thawed bloodworms or brine he would stay at the top or bottom and
>show signs of bladder imbalance. As long as I keep him on veggies he
>is fine and swims happily. Can you believe?
>SuziCreamCheese - and PS, water quality is not an issue with me. I
>maintain many tanks and have years of experience!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
LoaderLady
January 4th 04, 02:40 AM
What about a gel food? You can make them yourself. I feed soaked flakes in
morning and home-made gel food (veggies and tuna in one, and veggies and dew
worms in other) in the evening. My guppies also get gel food, but the
Angel's don't seem to like it. They are more carnivorous, though, from what
I understand. I can send you a basic recipe if you would like...
BTW, gel food does sink, and is made from 1/3 peas so it should work with
your fish. Might be worth a try.
--
}<> Tammy <>{
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"suzicreamcheese" > wrote in message
om...
> You won't believe this but I have a fancy-finned goldfish that will
> display swim bladder symptoms if I feed him anything but frozen
> veggies (thawed, of course). When he first showed symptoms I did a web
> search and found out about the frozen pea trick - you feed the fish a
> thawed, well cut up frozen pea(discard the pea's outer shell first).
> Then you can also fast a day or two.
> The pea worked. Problem is - whenever I gave the fish regular food
> or thawed bloodworms or brine he would stay at the top or bottom and
> show signs of bladder imbalance. As long as I keep him on veggies he
> is fine and swims happily. Can you believe?
> SuziCreamCheese - and PS, water quality is not an issue with me. I
> maintain many tanks and have years of experience!
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