What to do now....

[Babel Fish]

Hi all, I'm sure you've heard all of this sort of thing before, but then I
guess that's what this forum is for right?

Here goes:

A month or two ago, I bought a Waterhome 3 (made by Hagen). It's a small
tank with an overhead filter which draws water out, takes it above into a
chamber, filters it, and drops it out the other side. We followed advice
from the shop which was to fill with water, put in de-chlorinator, bacteria
stuff and leave it for 4 days before introducing fish. [I've since read
that that was wrong]. Introduced 2 black moors. A week later, one had
died. The water was cloudy and the filter appeared not to be doing a lot.
Advice from aquatic shop: do regular 10% water changes every 2-3 days which
would clear out ammonia. Also says to feed small amount once per day (I was
feeding twice a day). Water appeared to be clearing. Got another fish
(probably not the best thing to do you may say). Black moor dies a couple
of weeks later. Clean the tank a bit more thoroughly, using a gravel pump
but taking no more than 50% of the original water out. Newer fish develops
fin rot. Treat fin rot with antibiotic as directed. Fish has died tonight.

What I am planning on doing is getting an undergravel filter to use as well
as the overhead filter since this will provide more filtration and hopefully
more oxygen in the tank. Do UG filters also act as airpumps? Do people
think this is a good idea? Also - the other thing is - should I keep my
existing water that the fin-rotted fish died in, or chuck it out and start
again?

Advice appreciated in advance. I want to keep the next fish I buy alive!

Thanks

BabelFish.

[Charles]

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 18:29:36 -0000, "Babel Fish"
> wrote:

>Hi all, I'm sure you've heard all of this sort of thing before, but then I
>guess that's what this forum is for right?
>
>Here goes:
>
>A month or two ago, I bought a Waterhome 3 (made by Hagen). It's a small
>tank with an overhead filter which draws water out, takes it above into a
>chamber, filters it, and drops it out the other side. We followed advice
>from the shop which was to fill with water, put in de-chlorinator, bacteria
>stuff and leave it for 4 days before introducing fish. [I've since read
>that that was wrong]. Introduced 2 black moors. A week later, one had
>died. The water was cloudy and the filter appeared not to be doing a lot.
>Advice from aquatic shop: do regular 10% water changes every 2-3 days which
>would clear out ammonia. Also says to feed small amount once per day (I was
>feeding twice a day). Water appeared to be clearing. Got another fish
>(probably not the best thing to do you may say). Black moor dies a couple
>of weeks later. Clean the tank a bit more thoroughly, using a gravel pump
>but taking no more than 50% of the original water out. Newer fish develops
>fin rot. Treat fin rot with antibiotic as directed. Fish has died tonight.
>
>What I am planning on doing is getting an undergravel filter to use as well
>as the overhead filter since this will provide more filtration and hopefully
>more oxygen in the tank. Do UG filters also act as airpumps? Do people
>think this is a good idea? Also - the other thing is - should I keep my
>existing water that the fin-rotted fish died in, or chuck it out and start
>again?
>
>Advice appreciated in advance. I want to keep the next fish I buy alive!
>
>Thanks
>
>BabelFish.

What to do is stop putting goldfish in there. Your tank holds 3
gallons, each goldfish should have 10 to 30 gallons for itself.

Clean out the tank as best you can and if you still want to use it,
put is some more suitable fish.

Guppies, zebra danios, white clouds, something small.


>

--

- Charles
-
-does not play well with others

[Mel]

I agree with the previous poster. A goldfish really needs 10 gallons minimum
to be healthy and happy. A small tank really isn't the right place for them
and you will have no success no matter how many new goldfish you buy. Your
tank is more suited to a few (only a few though) small tropical fish and if
you go down this route consider how big they will be when they are full
grown. Most fish bought in fish stores are juveniles and will grow like
weeds.
As for preparing your tank - I'd start from scratch again after your
previous problems. Also, it will be much easier on you and the fish if you
cycle the tank before you add the fish. Set the tank up, turn everything on,
add a big pinch of fish food every couple of days and leave it alone. The
fish food will rot, causing ammonia which will start your cycle. You need to
get yourself some test kits (essential whether you cycle this way, or with
fish), and test periodically for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Ammonia and
nitrite will spike then return to 0, and nitrates will appear. Your tank is
only cycled when your ammonia and nitrite have spiked and gone back to 0,
and your nitrate is over 0 but preferably under 20.This process can take
anything up to 2 months so patience is needed. Then, after a 30% water
change you are ready to add fish, but only one or two per week, 3 or 4 if
they are very very small. This allows your friendly bacteria to become
accustomed to the extra waste produced and avoids ammonia/nitrite spikes.
Hope this helps,
Mel.



"Charles" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 18:29:36 -0000, "Babel Fish"
> > wrote:
>
> >Hi all, I'm sure you've heard all of this sort of thing before, but then
I
> >guess that's what this forum is for right?
> >
> >Here goes:
> >
> >A month or two ago, I bought a Waterhome 3 (made by Hagen). It's a small
> >tank with an overhead filter which draws water out, takes it above into a
> >chamber, filters it, and drops it out the other side. We followed advice
> >from the shop which was to fill with water, put in de-chlorinator,
bacteria
> >stuff and leave it for 4 days before introducing fish. [I've since read
> >that that was wrong]. Introduced 2 black moors. A week later, one had
> >died. The water was cloudy and the filter appeared not to be doing a
lot.
> >Advice from aquatic shop: do regular 10% water changes every 2-3 days
which
> >would clear out ammonia. Also says to feed small amount once per day (I
was
> >feeding twice a day). Water appeared to be clearing. Got another fish
> >(probably not the best thing to do you may say). Black moor dies a
couple
> >of weeks later. Clean the tank a bit more thoroughly, using a gravel
pump
> >but taking no more than 50% of the original water out. Newer fish
develops
> >fin rot. Treat fin rot with antibiotic as directed. Fish has died
tonight.
> >
> >What I am planning on doing is getting an undergravel filter to use as
well
> >as the overhead filter since this will provide more filtration and
hopefully
> >more oxygen in the tank. Do UG filters also act as airpumps? Do people
> >think this is a good idea? Also - the other thing is - should I keep my
> >existing water that the fin-rotted fish died in, or chuck it out and
start
> >again?
> >
> >Advice appreciated in advance. I want to keep the next fish I buy alive!
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >BabelFish.
>
> What to do is stop putting goldfish in there. Your tank holds 3
> gallons, each goldfish should have 10 to 30 gallons for itself.
>
> Clean out the tank as best you can and if you still want to use it,
> put is some more suitable fish.
>
> Guppies, zebra danios, white clouds, something small.
>
>
> >
>
> --
>
> - Charles
> -
> -does not play well with others

[Donald Kerns]

Babel Fish wrote:

> Advice appreciated in advance. I want to keep the next fish I buy
> alive!
>

Here's your homework before you buy anymore fish...

http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/begin.html
http://puregold.aquaria.net/pg/care/care1.htm#essentials

Read both of these completely. We will be awaiting your return and
questions forthwith...

-Donald
--
"Faced with the choice between changing one's mind and proving
that there is no need to do so, almost everyone gets busy on the
proof." -Galbraith's Law