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"erik" wrote in message ... | This reminds me of how confusing things were when I first got started. | I read a couple of good books ( a couple of times each ) before I | started to "get it". I'll try to summarize a little here. | | | The Basics of Filtration for the Reef Aquarium | http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...3/beginner.htm | | These people are a little weird but they have a lot of good info | online. Look at the stuff about the "bullet proof reef" | http://www.garf.org | | Well done, erik. May I also point you to www.reefcentral.com if you haven't been there already. Absolutely the best reef\marine source I've ever found. billy --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 8/27/2004 |
erik wrote in message . ..
This reminds me of how confusing things were when I first got started. I read a couple of good books ( a couple of times each ) before I started to "get it". Erik Thank you very much for the clearest explanation of reef tank microbiology and biochemistry for beginners like us we have seen to date. Superb and really helpful. Now the dilemma. We are sitting here looking at our nice neat setup based on instructions from the original dealer who advised us. We also spoke with a dealer yesterday, seemed to be a pretty experienced guy, about whether he could help us make choices in terms of compatible stock. His first question was where we are headed - and we confirmed that we wanted a mixed tank with fish corels and crustaceans. Is second question was about the setup we have - and we explained to him the dual mechanical filter arrangement. At this point, he expressed his approval of the "more than adequate" filtration capacity and confirmed that the only thing missing was a skimmer. We also discussed the fact that we had been advised to use biomature fluid rather than live rock to drive the maturation process. He said there were different schools of thought but that the biomature route was the most reliable. He also confirmed that live rock could/should be added later (a third dealer confirmed this story last week). What we didn't discuss was substrate depth, though the original dealer advised a thin 1cm layer of corel sand, which we have gone with. So, the dilemma is whether to start again with a deep sand bed and live rock to drive the maturation process and form the foundation for biological recycling, with a skimmer added for the reasons we now understand (losing the canister and decommisioning the internal Juwel mechanical filter along the way) -OR- Try to adjust the setup we have to deal with the Nitrate accumulation problem and the associated algae proloferation issue. Let's assume for a minute that we wanted to exhaust the possibilities of the second option before driving down the "no mechanical filtration" route (because of the investment we have made and the advice we are receiving from dealers). Would the introduction of live rock and a deep sand bed not minimise the problem and make it manageable? Please don't misunderstand - we are not looking to disregard all of the great advice we are receiving, but before taking what to us seems like a drastic step which deviates from the books we have read and the views of the local guys, we want to make sure there is no other option for producing a relatively safe and stable reef environment This is a fascinating discussion though, and if nothing else, is confirming our commitment to getting to grips with this whole area, Cheers Dale and H |
You should run some carbon every now and then.
"MonkeyBoy" wrote in message ... "Billy" wrote in message ... "Toni" wrote in message . .. | | | | I would say yes to the skimmer.... trade the cannister filter in for it. | Agreed, cannister filters are not really a good choice for a reef tank, they manufacture nitrates at an alarming rate. Some reefers will tell stories of amazingly high nitrates for years on end, but it's just not worth the risk. Trade\sell the 204 and aquire the best skimmer you can afford. billy --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.744 / Virus Database: 496 - Release Date: 8/24/2004 I'm setting up my 10 gal reef (LR & LS) currently and was planning to use both a Prizm Skimmer (Deluxe model) as well as an Eheim 2211 canister filter. Are you saying that it's a bad idea to use the canister filter even in conjunction with the skimmer? Don't I need some form of mechanical filtration? Regards, MB |
"MonkeyBoy" wrote in message ... | | I'm setting up my 10 gal reef (LR & LS) currently and was planning to | use both a Prizm Skimmer (Deluxe model) as well as an Eheim 2211 | canister filter. Are you saying that it's a bad idea to use the | canister filter even in conjunction with the skimmer? Don't I need | some form of mechanical filtration? | I don't use any mechanical filtration in my 75. My cleanup crew keeps the particulates down. Every now and them I throw the magnum on to polish the water. FWIW, your Prizm Deluxe has a chamber for filter media. And no, I would NOT use the canister filter on a reef tank. A *good* skimmer is the key. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 8/27/2004 |
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Erik have given you the starting point. Local Fish Store {LFS) will sell you more than you need. If you want reef or close to reef, try the natural way as much as possible. Regarding about nitrate, the final stage of the cycle, can not be perform by mechanical device to be remove nitrate. Only bacteria can breakdown nitrate to harmless nitrogen gas from a DSB [Not from a shadow sand bed]. If you opt for some sort of device to remove ntirate, then try Protein Skimmer. Protein Skimmer remove any DOC or nutrient that maybe floating with the current. My suggestion is to remove any BiosFilteration or mechanical filteration. LR or any scanvenager like crab / shrimp / star / snail and even fish will remove any possible uneaten food. Suggestion: LR LS PS Varies scanvenger [commonly call janitoral crew]. On other note - try not to add any inhabitant until your new tank get cycled. Your water reading should be : Amnona / Nitrite / Nitrate = non-detectable. CapFusion,.... "Dale & H" wrote in message om... erik wrote in message . .. Erik Thank you very much for the clearest explanation of reef tank microbiology and biochemistry for beginners like us we have seen to date. Superb and really helpful. Now the dilemma. We are sitting here looking at our nice neat setup based on instructions from the original dealer who advised us. We also spoke with a dealer yesterday, seemed to be a pretty experienced guy, about whether he could help us make choices in terms of compatible stock. His first question was where we are headed - and we confirmed that we wanted a mixed tank with fish corels and crustaceans. Is second question was about the setup we have - and we explained to him the dual mechanical filter arrangement. At this point, he expressed his approval of the "more than adequate" filtration capacity and confirmed that the only thing missing was a skimmer. We also discussed the fact that we had been advised to use biomature fluid rather than live rock to drive the maturation process. He said there were different schools of thought but that the biomature route was the most reliable. He also confirmed that live rock could/should be added later (a third dealer confirmed this story last week). What we didn't discuss was substrate depth, though the original dealer advised a thin 1cm layer of corel sand, which we have gone with. So, the dilemma is whether to start again with a deep sand bed and live rock to drive the maturation process and form the foundation for biological recycling, with a skimmer added for the reasons we now understand (losing the canister and decommisioning the internal Juwel mechanical filter along the way) -OR- Try to adjust the setup we have to deal with the Nitrate accumulation problem and the associated algae proloferation issue. Let's assume for a minute that we wanted to exhaust the possibilities of the second option before driving down the "no mechanical filtration" route (because of the investment we have made and the advice we are receiving from dealers). Would the introduction of live rock and a deep sand bed not minimise the problem and make it manageable? Please don't misunderstand - we are not looking to disregard all of the great advice we are receiving, but before taking what to us seems like a drastic step which deviates from the books we have read and the views of the local guys, we want to make sure there is no other option for producing a relatively safe and stable reef environment This is a fascinating discussion though, and if nothing else, is confirming our commitment to getting to grips with this whole area, Cheers Dale and H |
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We also discussed the fact that we had been advised to use biomature fluid rather than live rock to drive the maturation process. He said there were different schools of thought but that the biomature route was the most reliable. He also confirmed that live rock could/should be added later (a third dealer confirmed this story last week). What we didn't discuss was substrate depth, though the original dealer advised a thin 1cm layer of corel sand, which we have gone with. snipped You "could" add live rock later, but if you wait until your tank cycles and stabilizes, adding the live rock then will cause problems, as there's always some dieoff of the "live" stuff in the rock. IMO you'd be much better off starting out with a deep sand bed and live rock as the base for your setup. It'll cost more, but be worth it in the long run. Plus the rock is so fascinating to watch as critters come out and things grow on it. AND the person who said that fish stores will sell you more than you need is absolutely right! Half the time they have no idea what they're talking about in regards to aquariums in general and reef tanks in particular. Cindy |
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