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"Chris" wrote in message
ews.com... In article , eetmail- says... Waitaminute. You said "a few zebra danios and a couple of black tetras." Those aren't bottom feeders so I see you added more fish. You will need to be doing more and larger water changes. What is in your tank now? Sorry, my bad. I forgot to list two small Corys... Total fish in inches: 12. Total gallons: 29... -- Chris http://www.choxnpinz.com Holding out on us eh? Poor Corys didn't even count as fish :o( ;~) To answer your other post, the amount of water which can safely be changed is determined by how similar (or different) the change water is compared to the tank water (more similar = bigger changes possible). If you haven't changed the tank water in months, or you suspect/know the chemistry has significantly changed (like during cycling), then you should minimize the volume of the change. At the other extreme, if you change most of your water very frequently and have a low fish load, then you might not have any limitation to the volume being changed. It is possible to have a routine of frequent 100% changes (though this is a specialized application used to minimize DOC build up with grow-out tanks). Typical change is in the order of 20%. -- www.NetMax.tk |
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Chris wrote:
In article , eetmail- says... If your tapwater pH matches that of the tankwater, the hardness is similar, and you have matched the temperatures, it's fine to do big 50% water changes. The problem with a tank that contains ammonia is that tapwater typically has a higher pH than tankwater so if you change too much the pH of the tank changes and there is more ammonia in the toxic form. Using an ammonia neutralizer AmQuel or Ammo Lock will solve this problem. Granted, I don't know much, but I knew enough to keep a 7-gallon drinking-water jug in the same room, filled with tap water that has been pH balanced to match the tank and conditioned. When I do a chance, I let it sit outside for a couple of hours (in the sun) to warm it to the same temp as the tank before doing the change. Cool - that works. :-) For another option, I use a Python water changer to fill my tanks. I put the water conditioner directly in the tank, adjust the tap water to the right temperature, and fill away. I do frequent large water changes and my fish live at tapwater pH so I don't often have to worry about pH differences. I also don't have to try to lift 7 gallons of drinking water 5 feet high to fill my deepest tank! -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
"Chris" wrote in message ews.com... In article , says... The battery powered gravel vaccs work good except for one thing - the bags the vacced crud goes into doesn't hold the gunk inside so usually you end up with very cloudy water and little if any actual crud in the bag. Gravel vacs that use a siphon are superior because they don't dirty the tank spreading the crud all over the place like the battery powered ones, also the gravity vaccs change water at the same time and are safe for fry. The power of the battery powered ones are good - it's just that they tend to dirty a tank more than just about any other method. Good luck, later! I have a gravel vac that I use for water changes, but the water comes out so fast I end up filling the 5-gallon bucket before de-crudding half the tank. Is it safe to remove MORE than 20% of the water during a change? -- Chris http://www.choxnpinz.com I use a python gravel cleaner/filling setup - with that, you can limit the outflow on the siphon so you can clean all you want. I use the faucet in my sink to start the siphon and then move the hose to my tub so I don't have to use running water to keep the siphon going. Then I limit the flow with the valve on the python's hose. As long as your sink or tub is lower than your fish tank, then you can keep the flow going in this manner. Now that the weather is warmer, I can also run the hose out of the kitchen door onto my flowers and water them. I got the python for about $30 USD, but I would recommend springing for the extra 25 feet for the more expensive one, since we all seem to have a problem with adding more tanks then we need. My 25 foot just BARELY reaches my furthest tank, and I only have four of them... can't add more tanks without adding more to my python - I refuse to do without it!! btw, this does away with 5 gallon buckets... Which I get for free from work.... now I need to figure out what to do with the stack of them that I have... hmmm planters?? Unique light fixtures?? ---scott |
"Chris" wrote in message ews.com... In article , says... The battery powered gravel vaccs work good except for one thing - the bags the vacced crud goes into doesn't hold the gunk inside so usually you end up with very cloudy water and little if any actual crud in the bag. Gravel vacs that use a siphon are superior because they don't dirty the tank spreading the crud all over the place like the battery powered ones, also the gravity vaccs change water at the same time and are safe for fry. The power of the battery powered ones are good - it's just that they tend to dirty a tank more than just about any other method. Good luck, later! I have a gravel vac that I use for water changes, but the water comes out so fast I end up filling the 5-gallon bucket before de-crudding half Try using a smaller gravel vac like a marineland mini siphon kleen for approximately $04.00. It should make a big difference. Later! |
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