5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

Gill Passman wrote:
Tynk wrote:
I have to agree with Koi-Lo about Swords.
They get pretty large, and that's not even including the "sword" at the
end of the tail which ends up being about as long as their body is.
A 5g just isn't going to be able to house Swords....especially a Hex.
Just by having that shape of a tank limits your choices even more.


I hate the difference in measurements between the UK and US ( :-) )

Just checked the box of one of my 20L tanks - 20L = 5.3 US
galls....although looking at the tanks I still think they would be too
small for swords...

Sorry to be pedantic on the size maybe it should have read "bigger than
20L" :-)

Gill
Just checked the box of one of my 20L tanks - 20L = 5.3 US
galls....although looking at the tanks I still think they would be too
small for swords...

Sorry to be pedantic on the size maybe it should have read "bigger than
20L" :-)
Hmm...it's possible Gill that when somebody that doesn't use metric and says "20L" that they mean a 20 gallon "long", instead of a 20 gallon H (high).
I like to write it like this, 20gL or 20gH...the g standing for
gallons. If I didn't write it like that before...my mistake.

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

"Gill Passman" wrote in message
.. .
Tynk wrote:
I have to agree with Koi-Lo about Swords.
They get pretty large, and that's not even including the "sword" at the
end of the tail which ends up being about as long as their body is.
A 5g just isn't going to be able to house Swords....especially a Hex.
Just by having that shape of a tank limits your choices even more.


I hate the difference in measurements between the UK and US ( :-) )

Just checked the box of one of my 20L tanks - 20L = 5.3 US
galls....although looking at the tanks I still think they would be too
small for swords...

$ A 20L would be a long 20g long tank. That size can comfortably house 3 or
4 swordtails (with good filtration) and a few other smaller fish. I don't
see these 20Ls around anymore. Since they love to jump their tanks must be
well covered.

Sorry to be pedantic on the size maybe it should have read "bigger than
20L" :-)

Gill
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

Tynk wrote:
Gill Passman wrote:
Tynk wrote:
I have to agree with Koi-Lo about Swords.
They get pretty large, and that's not even including the "sword" at the
end of the tail which ends up being about as long as their body is.
A 5g just isn't going to be able to house Swords....especially a Hex.
Just by having that shape of a tank limits your choices even more.


I hate the difference in measurements between the UK and US ( :-) )

Just checked the box of one of my 20L tanks - 20L = 5.3 US
galls....although looking at the tanks I still think they would be too
small for swords...

Sorry to be pedantic on the size maybe it should have read "bigger than
20L" :-)

Gill
Just checked the box of one of my 20L tanks - 20L = 5.3 US
galls....although looking at the tanks I still think they would be too
small for swords...

Sorry to be pedantic on the size maybe it should have read "bigger than
20L" :-)
Hmm...it's possible Gill that when somebody that doesn't use metric and says "20L" that they mean a 20 gallon "long", instead of a 20 gallon H (high).
I like to write it like this, 20gL or 20gH...the g standing for
gallons. If I didn't write it like that before...my mistake.

*This is what I originally replied, but only the "I like to write it
like this" part was posted. How odd. Sorry if that didn't make any
sense at first....only part of what I wrote showed up the first
time....yet when I hit reply to my post...it showed up in the quoted
text. Very odd for sure.

Hmm...it's possible Gill that when somebody that doesn't use metric
and says "20L" that they mean a 20 gallon "long", instead of a 20
gallon H (high).
I like to write it like this, 20gL or 20gH...the g standing for
gallons. If I didn't write it like that before...my mistake.

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

Koi-lo wrote:

"Gill Passman" wrote in message
.. .

Tynk wrote:

I have to agree with Koi-Lo about Swords.
They get pretty large, and that's not even including the "sword" at the
end of the tail which ends up being about as long as their body is.
A 5g just isn't going to be able to house Swords....especially a Hex.
Just by having that shape of a tank limits your choices even more.


I hate the difference in measurements between the UK and US ( :-) )

Just checked the box of one of my 20L tanks - 20L = 5.3 US
galls....although looking at the tanks I still think they would be too
small for swords...


$ A 20L would be a long 20g long tank. That size can comfortably house
3 or
4 swordtails (with good filtration) and a few other smaller fish. I don't
see these 20Ls around anymore. Since they love to jump their tanks must be
well covered.

Sorry to be pedantic on the size maybe it should have read "bigger than
20L" :-)

Gill

let's clear up the confusion :-)....20L is the standard abreviation for
20 litres over here in the UK/Europe - which is 5.3 US gallons...

20 gallons is an entirely different thing and IMO more than acceptable
to house Swords....

Oh, the joy of two nations separated by a common language - grin

Gill

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

Gill Passman wrote:
let's clear up the confusion :-)....20L is the standard abreviation
for 20 litres over here in the UK/Europe - which is 5.3 US gallons...

To be pedantic: the correct abbreviation according to ISO for liter is a
lower-case l not an upper-case L.
Of course this can lead to confusion if l and 1 are very similar in certain
fonts.

jue

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

"John D. Goulden" wrote in message
...
I'm leaning toward a male betta and maybe one of the small albino
catfish later on to help keep the tank kind of clean.

Due to differing environmental requirements, bettas and cats are not a
good mix. Bettas need a heater (at least 78F - 80F) and a touch of
aquarium salt in the water; cats do better in cooler water (70F or cooler)
with no added salt.
Corydoras catfish, with a few exceptions that are not albino, need the same
temperature range as Bettas.

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta & Cat or 2 small fish & Cat?
 

Due to differing environmental requirements, bettas and cats are not a good
mix. Bettas need a heater (at least 78F - 80F) and a touch of aquarium salt
in the water; cats do better in cooler water (70F or cooler) with no added
salt.

I don't know that I agree John. Bettas and Corys can do great together.
I keep both (not in the same tank) but the parameters and additives are
the same for both tanks. Aquarium salt is an option and personally I
think it's just one more thing to keep track of. Others will argue that
the salt can do more harm then good. "Overslimification" (word I made
up to mean stimulating the slime coat to be too, um, slimy)

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta follow up
 

Welcome back to the hobby. = )

A late thanks to you and your comments, Tynk. Here's an update since
my last posts:

I did get a male betta the evening of that post, he's red with some
blue-violet and I do enjoy having him. Here's some shots I have
posted:

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/Albu...a=31996266&f=0

The first 3 photos are a couple of days after I first got him, the last
four were taken earlier today. I try not to overfeed, he has a good
appetite. I use Hakari's betta bio-gold bits; baby brine shrimp-for
added roughage, Wardley's tropical flakes-came with the tank, and
bloodworms-so variety is there. I don't feed him all these things at
the same time, and feed about twice a day, and about 1-2 days in the
week I feed him once. I think he's part pig, would eat every few hours
if allowed. He swims around well, love to watch him.

When I bought him his fins seemed just a little bit ragged, seems they
still are, maybe more-so. Should I do more frequent/smaller water
changes? Say 10-15% every few days, and touch up with aquarium salt?
The gravel washer I have works but siphons out the water so fast; next
time I use it I'll keep a better eye on it, remove Rudolf (doesn't like
the net ;O ) and maybe stir it up more to get a good vacuum. I wound
up cutting the vacuum tube with a Dremel, it was too long-so I cut it
down to about 4 inches. I've seen a smaller diameter vacuum tube
online, might try to get that (or just make one) so I don't loose so
much water so fast.

I did the first water change-half the amount, on 12/8, and today I did
a 3 gallon out of about 4.8gals water change. 3 days ago I did add
some Fungus clear (Jungle, 1/2 tab), not the eliminator, I did not take
the carbon out of my filter (probably got wasted). I used and measured
(for the 3 gallons replaced) AquaSafe, stress coat, stress zyme, ace, 1
tsp aquarium salt, and about 1/2 hour after the change, 5 drops of
quick clear. Enough chemicals...
I left the filter in-should I change it out (it's been in only a week)
or should I wait until next week after a small water change and then
replace it? I guess that Fungus eliminator got neutralized in the
carbon I might try again.
When I first put him in the tank, he seemed glad for all the room to
swim in. He'd make and have his bubble nests. After I did the first
water change, and I "disturbed/destroyed" his nest, he hasn't made one
since.

I did get an air stone with a small pump and gang-valve adjustment set
up, after reading you need to add oxygen when adding certain water
treatments like a.c.e. He will play with the bubbles-not set high,
just a stream, but I don't leave it on. I'm hoping those 2 Lily bulbs
will sprout soon-due 12/17-so he can have a leaf to rest on. I have
some Java Moss ordered, so he can rest or hide on that too.

I tested our tap water, it seems to have no ammonia, but it looked like
the tank water I tested before the water change had a little: I had a
"safe" on nitrates, "caution" on nitrites, 150 hardness, 120
alkalinity, 7-7.2ph . I tested 2.5 hours after the water change, seems
no ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0 nitrates,150 on hardness, 120-150 alkalinity,
6.8-7ph..

I know I have a bit to learn, I think I get caught up in the technical
side, but I'm keeping an eye on his fins. I think I can add a tad more
salt for theraputic benefits for his fins, not just a maintenance dose.
If that doesn't seem to work I might order some Kanaplex or Maracyn.
The manager in pets at WalMart (he has tanks, birds, dogs...) said he's
never used testing kits, he claims let nature take it's course. It
does seem that his fins are growing, and the two long/thin fins in the
front behind his gills have white/light blue tips. I read this
indicates new growth. (Does't look like anything bad). Hope i'm not
worrying too much...

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta follow up
 

ko57 wrote:
Welcome back to the hobby. = )

A late thanks to you and your comments, Tynk. Here's an update since
my last posts:

I did get a male betta the evening of that post, he's red with some
blue-violet and I do enjoy having him. Here's some shots I have
posted:

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/Albu...a=31996266&f=0

The first 3 photos are a couple of days after I first got him, the last
four were taken earlier today. I try not to overfeed, he has a good
appetite. I use Hakari's betta bio-gold bits; baby brine shrimp-for
added roughage, Wardley's tropical flakes-came with the tank, and
bloodworms-so variety is there. I don't feed him all these things at
the same time, and feed about twice a day, and about 1-2 days in the
week I feed him once. I think he's part pig, would eat every few hours
if allowed. He swims around well, love to watch him.

When I bought him his fins seemed just a little bit ragged, seems they
still are, maybe more-so. Should I do more frequent/smaller water
changes? Say 10-15% every few days, and touch up with aquarium salt?
The gravel washer I have works but siphons out the water so fast; next
time I use it I'll keep a better eye on it, remove Rudolf (doesn't like
the net ;O ) and maybe stir it up more to get a good vacuum. I wound
up cutting the vacuum tube with a Dremel, it was too long-so I cut it
down to about 4 inches. I've seen a smaller diameter vacuum tube
online, might try to get that (or just make one) so I don't loose so
much water so fast.

I did the first water change-half the amount, on 12/8, and today I did
a 3 gallon out of about 4.8gals water change. 3 days ago I did add
some Fungus clear (Jungle, 1/2 tab), not the eliminator, I did not take
the carbon out of my filter (probably got wasted). I used and measured
(for the 3 gallons replaced) AquaSafe, stress coat, stress zyme, ace, 1
tsp aquarium salt, and about 1/2 hour after the change, 5 drops of
quick clear. Enough chemicals...
I left the filter in-should I change it out (it's been in only a week)
or should I wait until next week after a small water change and then
replace it? I guess that Fungus eliminator got neutralized in the
carbon I might try again.
When I first put him in the tank, he seemed glad for all the room to
swim in. He'd make and have his bubble nests. After I did the first
water change, and I "disturbed/destroyed" his nest, he hasn't made one
since.

I did get an air stone with a small pump and gang-valve adjustment set
up, after reading you need to add oxygen when adding certain water
treatments like a.c.e. He will play with the bubbles-not set high,
just a stream, but I don't leave it on. I'm hoping those 2 Lily bulbs
will sprout soon-due 12/17-so he can have a leaf to rest on. I have
some Java Moss ordered, so he can rest or hide on that too.

I tested our tap water, it seems to have no ammonia, but it looked like
the tank water I tested before the water change had a little: I had a
"safe" on nitrates, "caution" on nitrites, 150 hardness, 120
alkalinity, 7-7.2ph . I tested 2.5 hours after the water change, seems
no ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0 nitrates,150 on hardness, 120-150 alkalinity,
6.8-7ph..

I know I have a bit to learn, I think I get caught up in the technical
side, but I'm keeping an eye on his fins. I think I can add a tad more
salt for theraputic benefits for his fins, not just a maintenance dose.
If that doesn't seem to work I might order some Kanaplex or Maracyn.
The manager in pets at WalMart (he has tanks, birds, dogs...) said he's
never used testing kits, he claims let nature take it's course. It
does seem that his fins are growing, and the two long/thin fins in the
front behind his gills have white/light blue tips. I read this
indicates new growth. (Does't look like anything bad). Hope i'm not
worrying too much...
First let me say, congrats on the new boy. He's a pretty one and will
soon be spoiled. = )
I guess I'll be the first to mention that you need to slow down, back
away and maybe even walk far away from adding so many chemicals and
medications in the tank.
The less chemicals the better.
I don't remember what A.C.E. is, but you had at least 3 other
dechlorinators doing the same exact purpose, cycling product that
doesn't work, something to clear cloudy water and a fungus medication,
and then salt. Woah! That's a alot of chemicals.
Why are you treating him for fungus? You didn't mention any fungus,
just so fins being a little raggedy when you bought him.
Bettas fins regenerate very easily, very quickly, and usually without
any need for medications. Nature made them heal up so easily and fast
because of their fighting nature. You need to be able to heal up fast
in the wild to keep on surviving.
You only need one dechlorinater. StresCoat is great. I use it myself.
However, it doesn't remove chloramine. I know it says it detoxifies
chloramines on the bottle, but I called the company. Chloramine is
chlorine and ammonia bonded together. A regular chlorine remover will
take care of the chlorine, but leave the ammonia behind. Stress Coat
breaks the bond, detoxifies the chlorine, and leaves the ammonia. It
even tells you to use another product to remove the ammonia!
Anywa, call your local water dept and ask if they use chloramine in the
water and tell them you have a fish tank and need to know which water
conditioner to use.
If they do use Chloramine, then get Amquel. Ity'll take care of both
the chlorine and ammonia.
As for the cycling product...it a waste of money. Wrong bacteria.
The salt is ok, but don't go to up to a medication type amount of it.
Just a little is fine, but when you add anythig else, they would have
to be compatible with salt in their water.
Keep up on weekly water changes with only one water conditioner! lol
Now if the Betta isn't sick and just had some minor fin damage from
shipping, etc..then stop medicating him.
Get back to me on the "is he sick or not" thing. I hope he's not and
that he's just a bit of a raggedy man.

5gal Hex-bio wheel-Betta follow up
 

Tynk,

I hear you loud and clear. Not to be over-concerned about his fins,
but I've noticed from one day to the next another small piece has torn
off. I had noticed after adding a little salt to the tank, then the
next day testing, found the ammonia, nitrates & nitrites a little
higher than usual. That evening did another partial water change, 1
gallon, and did change the filter. ACE is made by Jungle Labs, I guess
it is something like AmQuel, it removes ammonia and chloramine from tap
water. I tested the water today, seems the nitrates were at almost 10,
nitrites were at .5, lower than the 20, and 1 after the change. Water
seems softer-75-than usual, kh at 120, ph at 6.8. That is usually at 7
or 7.2 from the faucet. Ammonia was not exactly 0, but not at .25 (the
next indicator) either, I'd say somewhere in between.

Last night I didn't feed him, this morning fed just a little. I think
I need to back off on that also, even though his appetite is very
good-don't want to see him on Slim Fast. I'll keep doing smaller, more
frequent water changes and watch the feeding-not too much. But that
ACE seems to work okay. I guess the tank/biowheel are cycling?
Hopefully...

Thanks,
Kerry