135 gal project...
 

The one bit of glass you don't wanna crack is the bottem bit therefor a
layer of styrofoam is needed.
tank bases may expand, have a bit of gravel/sand on them or just not be
level (stand or tank)
a styro sheet prevents any of these things being a problem
it needs to be big enough to fit on you stand, tank goes onto stand and any
excess styro faom can be trimmed away.
do it tho, it saves massive drama later on
massive drama!!!
:-)

135 gal project...
 

Since I am not a big fan of drama I did in fact use styrofoam under the
tank. I look at it as an ounce of prevention is worth 3/4 ton of cure,
thanks to the many fine folks here in the group.

Update:
#A- The stand was clearcoated with a clear "polycrylic" water based
liquid that I sprayed on in two coats. I found on my other stands that
if I scrubbed the paint the splatter color would start to wear off. Now
I clear them with water proof stuff. (The deck clear was not good
because "natural clear" was not clear at all! It was brownish color
clear)
#B- The tank has styrofoam and is filled for a 24 hour leak test, hour
three and all is well.

swarvegorilla wrote:
The one bit of glass you don't wanna crack is the bottem bit therefor a
layer of styrofoam is needed.
it saves massive drama later on
massive drama!!!
:-)

I'm not a big fan of "massive drama". :)
Thanks, Karl.

P.s. One daunting thought I have been evading.... How does one do a 25%
water change on one of these monsters? That's like what, six+ 5 gallon
water juggs? Plus my other (55, 55, 29gal) tanks!
;\

135 gal project...
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
Since I am not a big fan of drama I did in fact use styrofoam under the
tank. I look at it as an ounce of prevention is worth 3/4 ton of cure,
thanks to the many fine folks here in the group.

Update:
#A- The stand was clearcoated with a clear "polycrylic" water based
liquid that I sprayed on in two coats. I found on my other stands that
if I scrubbed the paint the splatter color would start to wear off. Now
I clear them with water proof stuff. (The deck clear was not good
because "natural clear" was not clear at all! It was brownish color
clear)
#B- The tank has styrofoam and is filled for a 24 hour leak test, hour
three and all is well.

swarvegorilla wrote:
The one bit of glass you don't wanna crack is the bottem bit therefor a
layer of styrofoam is needed.
it saves massive drama later on
massive drama!!!
:-)

I'm not a big fan of "massive drama". :)
Thanks, Karl.

P.s. One daunting thought I have been evading.... How does one do a 25%
water change on one of these monsters? That's like what, six+ 5 gallon
water juggs? Plus my other (55, 55, 29gal) tanks!
;\


Ok so maybe this isn't for you.
But I use a powerhead pump connected to a bit of hose.
At first I gravel vacc (or just skim over surface for sand with a hose) into
a bucket.
Then I clean filter stuff in the bucket.
Then I chuck pump/hose into bucket and pump water onto garden.
I then put pump/hose into tank and pump it where ever.
Next I put the pump into a new plastic garbage bin that has decholinated
water with an airstone and heater in it. When the temp in bin is same as the
tank (or a degree cooler to trigger spawns) I pump/hose it to the tank.
Theres the curved 'U' bits that come with cannisters, usually for the intake
pipe.
Anyway one of them on the end of ya hose means you can hook it over the side
of a tank rather than hold it there.

Anyway I hate carrieing water.
If gravity can't do it for me than I use a pump.
If I need to drain a pond I hire a fire fighting pump.
time is money
But a broken back is.......
well just as lame as anything else that ruins sex.