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For carbon, leave it in for at most a week. You can
always dry out the carbon and use it again. But what you don't want is for your carbon to grow bacteria. Wayne Sallee Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 9:35 AM: Wayne Sallee wrote: Let all of your filtration be done by live rock, and live sand, and macro algae. I'm using a Canister with carbon only (No bio-media) I have some live sand in the tank and a DSB |
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Thanks Wayne, I'll give that a try
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"Peter Pan" wrote in message ... jthread wrote: "Peter Pan" wrote in message ... jthread wrote: finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op. tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates. I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days ago and IM back to 15 ppm.. I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15 ppm too high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm would be pretty good. Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you tried feeding less? My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false back. The nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one. I went from 5 ppm to 15 ppm in roughly 10 days. I've tried less feedings (every other day) I've also tried more frequent partials and still the nitrates climb. I'm not sure there is anything wrong with that. I don't even know how you could test so accurately. I think if you have any fish and you are feeding them you're going to have some nitrates. I was told to do my changes at 20 ppm. Are you feeding your invertebrates separate from you fish? Jim |
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I have a FOWLR no inverts...
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"Peter Pan" wrote in message
... I have a FOWLR no inverts... With a FOWLR, nitrates are much less of a concern than they are in a reef tank. Most fish can tolerate a sustained 40 ppm with no ill effects. No need to worry about anything around 20 or less. -- Steve |
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Steve Heath wrote:
"Peter Pan" wrote in message ... I have a FOWLR no inverts... With a FOWLR, nitrates are much less of a concern than they are in a reef tank. Most fish can tolerate a sustained 40 ppm with no ill effects. No need to worry about anything around 20 or less. Thanks, But I want to add some inverts/ soft corals and would like to get this under control before making the investment |
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"jthread" wrote in message ...
The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out. Just this statement sugests that something is seriously wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be never too much sun/light in a reef tank! You do not limit the light intake, you increase the nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks. Red algae usually means too much phosphates. Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean? |
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I think it's easier to keep nitrates down in a reef
tank with corals than it is in a tank without corals. The corals help take up the nitrates. Wayne Sallee Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 3:30 PM: I have a FOWLR no inverts... |
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Yep that's right. And also limit nutrient input.
And when you have fast coral growth you have a form of nutrient uptake. Wayne Sallee Pszemol wrote on 2/19/2008 9:38 PM: "jthread" wrote in message ... The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out. Just this statement sugests that something is seriously wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be never too much sun/light in a reef tank! You do not limit the light intake, you increase the nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks. Red algae usually means too much phosphates. Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean? |
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