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New Tank Still Struggling??
On 24 Mar 2006 07:40:16 -0800, "Frank"
wrote: Seems like I acclimate quite a bit different than most people. I hace a 10 gal. quarantine tank that has a foot print of a 5 gal. tank, just twice as high. I only buy fish from a couple of mom and pop stores that I know they know how to treat and keep healthy fish. I only buy healthy active fish, fins erect, smooth skin with a wet look shine, clear Just before sitting down at my computer, I finally got my 10 gallon QT tank up and running. Seeded the filter with a very ripe biosponge from a very old tank, at the same time set up a couple of sponge filters in that old tank with a slow bubbling air pump, just to sit there for a few weeks and be ready for whatever whenever. -- Mister Gardener |
New Tank Still Struggling??
"Mr. Gardener" wrote in message
... On 24 Mar 2006 07:40:16 -0800, "Frank" wrote: Seems like I acclimate quite a bit different than most people. I hace a 10 gal. quarantine tank that has a foot print of a 5 gal. tank, just twice as high. I only buy fish from a couple of mom and pop stores that I know they know how to treat and keep healthy fish. I only buy healthy active fish, fins erect, smooth skin with a wet look shine, clear Just before sitting down at my computer, I finally got my 10 gallon QT tank up and running. Seeded the filter with a very ripe biosponge from a very old tank, at the same time set up a couple of sponge filters in that old tank with a slow bubbling air pump, just to sit there for a few weeks and be ready for whatever whenever. -- Mister Gardener Don't forget to periodically feed the tank's bacteria. A sprinkle of flake food should do. -- www.NetMax.tk |
New Tank Still Struggling??
Frank wrote:
Mr. Gardener wrote, more difficult for a fish to go from hard water to soft than it is to go from soft to hard. I don't know if it's true....... It's true - a sudden drop of 25% TDS will kill some species, mostly smaller species. You got me curious. A drop from 100 ppm to 75 ppm is a much larger drop than 10 ppm to 7.5 ppm. I like to do 50% water changes and if I do them weekly I don't seem to have any problems. It keeps the KH nice and high, my water stays very low in DOC, and the tank water is closer to tap water for when I decide to move fish around or put new ones in quarantine. What's the threshold where the TDS make less of a difference, or is there one? -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to reply. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
New Tank Still Struggling??
Again, Thanks for the responses.
I should have phrased it that I changed the 'bio-bag', leaving the bio-sponge in place, thinking that there would be enough bacteria in the sponge, gravel etc, to handle the load . . . but perhaps not. At this point, I'm chalking it up to a combination of the filter change, increasing the bio load, and acclimation. The other fish in the tank seem fine, then again, my original Molly survived the cycle period with high Ammonia/Nitrites so that doesn't surprise me. I never pour water from the lfs into my tank. I learned that on day 1. However, next time I will take more steps then floating the bag for 15 min to acclimate. Jon |
New Tank Still Struggling??
On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 12:50:41 -0500, "NetMax"
wrote: "Mr. Gardener" wrote in message .. . On 24 Mar 2006 07:40:16 -0800, "Frank" wrote: Seems like I acclimate quite a bit different than most people. I hace a 10 gal. quarantine tank that has a foot print of a 5 gal. tank, just twice as high. I only buy fish from a couple of mom and pop stores that I know they know how to treat and keep healthy fish. I only buy healthy active fish, fins erect, smooth skin with a wet look shine, clear Just before sitting down at my computer, I finally got my 10 gallon QT tank up and running. Seeded the filter with a very ripe biosponge from a very old tank, at the same time set up a couple of sponge filters in that old tank with a slow bubbling air pump, just to sit there for a few weeks and be ready for whatever whenever. -- Mister Gardener Don't forget to periodically feed the tank's bacteria. A sprinkle of flake food should do. Oh, I've already given the new tank a loading dose of ammonia, urea, probably some trace elements. A method mentioned in a TFH column. You didn't want to know before, you don't want to ask now. I think someone said TMI. -- Mister Gardener |
New Tank Still Struggling??
On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 17:52:41 GMT, Altum
wrote: Frank wrote: Mr. Gardener wrote, more difficult for a fish to go from hard water to soft than it is to go from soft to hard. I don't know if it's true....... It's true - a sudden drop of 25% TDS will kill some species, mostly smaller species. You got me curious. A drop from 100 ppm to 75 ppm is a much larger drop than 10 ppm to 7.5 ppm. I like to do 50% water changes and if I do them weekly I don't seem to have any problems. It keeps the KH nice and high, my water stays very low in DOC, and the tank water is closer to tap water for when I decide to move fish around or put new ones in quarantine. What's the threshold where the TDS make less of a difference, or is there one? Is this a rhetorical question? Hope so. -- Mister Gardener |
New Tank Still Struggling??
On 24 Mar 2006 11:31:03 -0800, "Frank"
wrote: Altum wrote, I like to do 50% water changes and if I do them weekly I don't seem to have any problems. Breeding and raising fish for 40+ years, I fed 5 and 6 times a day. A lot of my grow-out tanks were those cheap 29 gal. tanks, of which I raised as many as 150 fish to selling size. That took a couple of the larger air-driven sponge filters, an airstone or two, and a *lot* of water changing. After last feed for the day, I siphoned 15 to 20% of the water from the bottom and squeezed the filters clean, 24/7. This kept my tanks clean and the fish healthy. I always had trouble acclimating my fish into the different stores tanks - pH shock, back then! ... Today, it's the other way around - I buy fish from two different stores. They both keep healthy fish, but they don't change near as much water as I do. Their tanks/water is quite a bit softer than mine, and of corse today we don't call it pH shock anymore. Now it's TDS shock, even though most of the stores still call it pH shock. What's the threshold where the TDS make less of a difference, or is there one? ... Not wanting to misunderstand your question, I think the answer your looking for is 25%. I see what your getting at, 100ppm - 75ppm = 25ppm, 10ppm - 7.5ppm = 2.5ppm, but, is not the percentage of total volume the same? .............. Frank Another rhetorical question, I hope. I talked recently with my lfs about the wide difference between my water and his and he blah blah 90% of the fish he sells are so many generations away from their origins that they can do fine anywhere from 6.5 to 8.5 and all degrees of hardness. Yeah but . . . I'm thinking of bringing home some big jugs of his water to begin acclimating my young to his store a week or so before the fish get moved. He then told me that he and his supplier talked about some of the losses he's been seeing, especially in his rainforest fish and the guy's about got him talked into setting up a few tanks and maintaining them for his south american cats and angels and rams and stuff. I'm nudging him along, do it do it do it. -- Mister Gardener |
New Tank Still Struggling??
Frank wrote:
Altum wrote, snip What's the threshold where the TDS make less of a difference, or is there one? ... Not wanting to misunderstand your question, I think the answer your looking for is 25%. I see what your getting at, 100ppm - 75ppm = 25ppm, 10ppm - 7.5ppm = 2.5ppm, but, is not the percentage of total volume the same? .............. Frank Right. But a drop from 10 to 7.5 ppm shouldn't be as physiologically taxing as one from 100 to 75 ppm. Both would be 25% water changes. I guess I'm trying to ask whether you ALWAYS advocate changing only 25% of the water, or whether you can reach a point where it doesn't matter any more because the tank water is close enough to tap water. Are my regular 50% water changes harming my fish in ways that I can't see or measure? How about my betta at work who gets a 100% weekly water change. He seems fine... -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to reply. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
New Tank Still Struggling??
Mr. Gardener wrote:
On 24 Mar 2006 11:31:03 -0800, "Frank" wrote: Altum wrote, I like to do 50% water changes and if I do them weekly I don't seem to have any problems. Breeding and raising fish for 40+ years, I fed 5 and 6 times a day. A lot of my grow-out tanks were those cheap 29 gal. tanks, of which I raised as many as 150 fish to selling size. That took a couple of the larger air-driven sponge filters, an airstone or two, and a *lot* of water changing. After last feed for the day, I siphoned 15 to 20% of the water from the bottom and squeezed the filters clean, 24/7. This kept my tanks clean and the fish healthy. I always had trouble acclimating my fish into the different stores tanks - pH shock, back then! ... Today, it's the other way around - I buy fish from two different stores. They both keep healthy fish, but they don't change near as much water as I do. Their tanks/water is quite a bit softer than mine, and of corse today we don't call it pH shock anymore. Now it's TDS shock, even though most of the stores still call it pH shock. What's the threshold where the TDS make less of a difference, or is there one? ... Not wanting to misunderstand your question, I think the answer your looking for is 25%. I see what your getting at, 100ppm - 75ppm = 25ppm, 10ppm - 7.5ppm = 2.5ppm, but, is not the percentage of total volume the same? .............. Frank Another rhetorical question, I hope. I talked recently with my lfs about the wide difference between my water and his and he blah blah 90% of the fish he sells are so many generations away from their origins that they can do fine anywhere from 6.5 to 8.5 and all degrees of hardness. Yeah but . . . I'm thinking of bringing home some big jugs of his water to begin acclimating my young to his store a week or so before the fish get moved. He then told me that he and his supplier talked about some of the losses he's been seeing, especially in his rainforest fish and the guy's about got him talked into setting up a few tanks and maintaining them for his south american cats and angels and rams and stuff. I'm nudging him along, do it do it do it. -- Mister Gardener My places have the same water as me so I guess I'm lucky but I won't buy fish until they have totally aclimatised to the water (they usually give them 4 days unless there is a problem) I usually leave it at least 2 weeks. It has nothing to do with the origins in this case but the conditions that they are kept under....losses will be greater where water conditions see big variations (and I'm talking new purchased fish) - even where my local conditions are comparable however carefully I drip the water in I still see losses and this is with comparable water hardness/pH - it might be from other issues I don't know for sure.....If they set up tanks specifically for certain fish they need to label them clearly - one place I went to a few weeks ago clearly labelled that their Discus are kept in RO water with peat extract and so therefore great care needs to be taken when introducing them to local conditions.... Gill |
New Tank Still Struggling??
Altum wrote,
I guess what I'm trying to ask whether you ALWAYS advocate changing only 25% of the water....... I "ALWAYS" advocate changing *20%* - for those that only do small (20% or less) weekly water changes. Are my regular 50% water changes harming.......... Key word here is "regular". TDS in your tap water isn't going to suddenly change from week to week. Highly unlikely DOCs could build up quick enough within a week to change TDS unless you have a large fish/goldfish tank filtered with a canister filter. No, weekly 50% wate changes - your fish should be doing great! It's the people that only do 10 or 20% water changes every week or two and says their tank looks and test great. These are the people that kill their fish due to osmotic pressure shock ;-) ............ Frank |
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