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cleaned tank
"Pszemol" wrote in message ... "jthread" wrote in message ... The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out. Just this statement sugests that something is seriously wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be never too much sun/light in a reef tank! You do not limit the light intake, you increase the nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks. Red algae usually means too much phosphates. Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean? Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register. Nitrates 20ppm The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating. Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight. |
cleaned tank
"jthread" wrote in message ...
Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register. What test are you using? What is its expected acuracy? What is the lowest number on the scale? Do you have the reference sample to check if test is ok? Note, that phosphates are harder to measure, because desired concentrations are much, much lower miligrams than nitrates. Regular concentration of phosphates on natural reef are below 1mg/l, more at 0.5mg/l level. Red slime algae in my tanks appear when I have nitrates very low, below 1mg/L and phosphates above 1mg/l. Nitrates 20ppm The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating. Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight. Once again - sunlight IS NOT A PROBLEM in the reef tanks. If we have this chance, we would all like to have the reef tank under the skylight or with no roof at all :-) Red algae can be in many shapes and forms - to be more specific I was talking about red slime algae, cyanobacteria. This type can survive in the environment low in nitrate because it can syntethize nitrogen in the gaseous form diluted in the water. Other types of algae cannot do this trick so they need nitrates or ammonia in water as a source of nitrogen. All algae, including cyanobacteria (red slime) require phosphate as a source of phosphorus. Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria... |
cleaned tank
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Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria... Chemi-Clean works over night on red slime.. and its reef safe |
cleaned tank
"Pszemol" wrote in message ... "jthread" wrote in message ... Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register. What test are you using? What is its expected acuracy? What is the lowest number on the scale? Do you have the reference sample to check if test is ok? Note, that phosphates are harder to measure, because desired concentrations are much, much lower miligrams than nitrates. Regular concentration of phosphates on natural reef are below 1mg/l, more at 0.5mg/l level. Red slime algae in my tanks appear when I have nitrates very low, below 1mg/L and phosphates above 1mg/l. Nitrates 20ppm The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating. Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight. Once again - sunlight IS NOT A PROBLEM in the reef tanks. If we have this chance, we would all like to have the reef tank under the skylight or with no roof at all :-) Red algae can be in many shapes and forms - to be more specific I was talking about red slime algae, cyanobacteria. This type can survive in the environment low in nitrate because it can syntethize nitrogen in the gaseous form diluted in the water. Other types of algae cannot do this trick so they need nitrates or ammonia in water as a source of nitrogen. All algae, including cyanobacteria (red slime) require phosphate as a source of phosphorus. Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria... thanks for your input. i'm just saying that is where it is growing |
cleaned tank
"Peter Pan" wrote in message . ..
Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria... Chemi-Clean works over night on red slime.. and its reef safe From the biological point of view, it will kill the cyano and release all the nutrients back to the water column. So you are destined to have the tank back to ugly in weeks. |
cleaned tank
"Pszemol" wrote in message ... "Peter Pan" wrote in message . .. Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria... i meant less than 20. looked about 15 ppm pretty good for that tank. it's usually about 20 ppm. it has to do with the canister. (i think) maybe I should gut it and just use it to circulate water? the red slime is slime. it's gotta be - and there may be some other red bacteria growing. Vacuuming works the best. I take the rocks out and scrub them( in battery acid :-P) the other tank maintains 10ppm it is almost full of lr. that and a small filter and a protein skimmer. i never have to change. just replace evaporated water. |
cleaned tank
No no no, you need to scrub them in phosphoric acid. :-)
Wayne Sallee jthread wrote on 2/20/2008 11:25 PM: I take the rocks out and scrub them( in battery acid :-P) |
cleaned tank
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message ... No no no, you need to scrub them in phosphoric acid. :-) Wayne Sallee jthread wrote on 2/20/2008 11:25 PM: I take the rocks out and scrub them( in battery acid :-P) I was thinking of taking the guts out of my canister and put a couple of chunks of lr and a small filter disk. then change the disk about every three days. what do you think? backwash it with Clorox and drain 'o' |
cleaned tank
I would not recommend using a canister filter
containing live rock and filter fiber. If you want to take the guts out, then leave it gutless. Wayne Sallee jthread wrote on 2/21/2008 3:05 PM: I was thinking of taking the guts out of my canister and put a couple of chunks of lr and a small filter disk. then change the disk about every three days. what do you think? |
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