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Overdriving NO Tubes
"Boomer" wrote in message ... "Anyway, the guy that he knows did the mathmatical conversion and concluded the lights were using 130watts." I would like to have him show me that trick, as you can't. A bulb could be 6,000 lumens and be 100 watts or 6,000 lumens and 200 Watts. I think you misunderstood what he was saying. 1 watt at 555 nm = 683 lumens and different nm will give a different lumen. But then again if he was using a radiometric spectrophometer he could measure the output of different nm ranges and convert to lumens, as each nm value would have a different peak wattage and adding them up would tell you how many watts of light are being produced or delivered from the but not what the lights were using. It takes wattage to just get the bulb going before there is any light produced. -- Boomer Well, this is way over my head. I'm gonna keep my mouth shut until he shows up. Then you can bite HIS head off! =) ~Mort |
Overdriving NO Tubes
That would depend on allot of things, e.g. ballast, what " soft silver metals"are being,
ratios of those, metals, bulb type and size of lamp(wattage),etc. and do we only include visible light. In short here is an example of a common MH lamp ..........hmmmmm can't find my MH one Psz, so a 2 lamp one will have to suffice and it is scary. Lets say I under estimated it :-) A MH would be close. Energy Emission 4-foot GTE 40W T-12 UV = 0.16 W Violet = .72 WW Blue =1.98W Green = 2.35W Yellow -1.74 W Orange = 1.69W Red 0.18W Total watts of light delivered = 9.45 W = 100 % or 25 % of the 40 W is for just light and the other 75 % or 30 W is to drive it, plus it by-products. And in the other post I said 40 % for light 60 % to drive it And to add some more from a similar lamp but divided up with more meaning 100 % = 40 W 60 % UV, 24 W, that gives 21 % light + and an additional light of 2 % from the original input energy for a total = 23 % or 9.3W 38 % heat from the original input and 39 % heat from the UV for a total of 77 % using 30.7 W Of that 77 % , 36 % is infrared , 14.4 W and 41 % is convection and conduction for heat at 16.3 W So 77 % for heat and IR and 23 % actual light 16.3 + 14 .4 + 9.3 = 9.3 W of actual light -- Boomer Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php Want to See More ? Please Join Our Growing Membership www.coralrealm.com If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up "Pszemol" wrote in message ... : "Boomer" wrote in message ... : Yes Pszemol, the actual watts of light a bulb produces is way below its : "power consumption wattage." : A 100 watt bulb of x type may only produce 40 watts of light : : So bad? Only 40%? What could be the max efficiency of MH light source? |
Overdriving NO Tubes
Thanks - if you ever find similar detailed info for MH I would appreciate this.
"Boomer" wrote in message ... That would depend on allot of things, e.g. ballast, what " soft silver metals"are being, ratios of those, metals, bulb type and size of lamp(wattage),etc. and do we only include visible light. In short here is an example of a common MH lamp .........hmmmmm can't find my MH one Psz, so a 2 lamp one will have to suffice and it is scary. Lets say I under estimated it :-) A MH would be close. Energy Emission 4-foot GTE 40W T-12 UV = 0.16 W Violet = .72 WW Blue =1.98W Green = 2.35W Yellow -1.74 W Orange = 1.69W Red 0.18W Total watts of light delivered = 9.45 W = 100 % or 25 % of the 40 W is for just light and the other 75 % or 30 W is to drive it, plus it by-products. And in the other post I said 40 % for light 60 % to drive it And to add some more from a similar lamp but divided up with more meaning 100 % = 40 W 60 % UV, 24 W, that gives 21 % light + and an additional light of 2 % from the original input energy for a total = 23 % or 9.3W 38 % heat from the original input and 39 % heat from the UV for a total of 77 % using 30.7 W Of that 77 % , 36 % is infrared , 14.4 W and 41 % is convection and conduction for heat at 16.3 W So 77 % for heat and IR and 23 % actual light 16.3 + 14 .4 + 9.3 = 9.3 W of actual light |
Overdriving NO Tubes
"Mort" wrote in message y.com... Is anyone here familiar with overdriving NO fluorescent tubes? I met a DIYer today (Marc, that's the guy I told you about with those5 stage RO/DI units) that does this to his lamps. Apparently you replace the balast with a higher output Electronic ballast (About $10 from home depot) and it can double even triple the wattage of the bulb. It operates at a higher frequency and does not shorten the life of the bulb much at all. He's had a setup with a twin 30w 36" fixture that with this balast is putting out 130watts after 1 year. Will this trickery work for marine aquaria and corals??? ~Mort For anyone who is interested, I just finished overdriving a small fixture for a freshwater tank. The difference is amazing. However, I do not care for the color of these cheap bulbs. Part of the problem is that they are 15" tubes so my selection is very limited at the hardware store. All I could find out about these buls is that they are "cool white" but overdriven in a tank they are yellow, almost green. Anyway, I can pick up some 18,000K bulbs for $10ea or get the "aqua-glo" again for $10/ea. I know this info really isnt that useful for reefs (my apologies) but I figured I'd follow up for archiving purposes. HTH ~Mort |
Overdriving NO Tubes
overdriven
in a tank they are yellow, almost green. Mort, you seem to getting the same results I did some time back. If I may ask - what sort of ballast are you using? That's kinda the difference between King Marc's experience and mine. I used the PFO electronic while he used the Icecap I believe. James |
Overdriving NO Tubes
"Acrylics" wrote in message ... overdriven in a tank they are yellow, almost green. Mort, you seem to getting the same results I did some time back. If I may ask - what sort of ballast are you using? That's kinda the difference between King Marc's experience and mine. I used the PFO electronic while he used the Icecap I believe. James Hi James, I used one from the hardware store mfg by Sylvania. Again, the only thing I know about the bulbs is that they are "cool white" I have no idea what their actual Kelvin rating is. I found some 15" bulbs at an LFS that are 18,000K. I think I am going to try them. ~Mort |
Overdriving NO Tubes
snip
Again, the only thing I know about the bulbs is that they are "cool white" I have no idea what their actual Kelvin rating is. /snip I just found it on-line. The color rating is 4200K ~Mort |
Overdriving NO Tubes
Mort, what type of ballast are you using to light your bulbs? That is what
James was asking, not the bulb. Marc Mort wrote: I used one from the hardware store mfg by Sylvania. Again, the only thing I know about the bulbs is that they are "cool white" I have no idea what their actual Kelvin rating is. I found some 15" bulbs at an LFS that are 18,000K. I think I am going to try them. ~Mort -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
Overdriving NO Tubes
"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
... Mort, what type of ballast are you using to light your bulbs? That is what James was asking, not the bulb. Marc Oops, sorry I did not explain it well enough. The ballast is mfg by Sylvania. It is a 4X32 Electronic ballast (4 bulbs, 32 Watts ea). I am running 2 14 watt bulbs with it. If you guys want the model # I can get it for you. Lemme know. =) ~Mort |
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