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Algae! UNCLE!
OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm
about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy |
On 2005-04-26, Shagster wrote:
OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Yeah, it's called fertilizer. The nutrients in your tank are off. http://plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9 http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm More links about dosing your tank: http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~jr...ry%20pmdd.html http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm Without knowing the details of your tank, one possible start would be to have as the only inhabitants of your tank some SAE and other algae eating fish. Don't feed the tank at all, and let the algae eaters eat the algae. And, try to get your nutrient levels under control. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
Shagster wrote:
OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
I WAS adding fert. to the tank, but I've stopped all of that.. Obviously,
something is off... But I'm not sure how to tell exactly WHAT that is... I'm going to start daily 95% water changes (and stop all fert.) and see how it goes.. Overfeeding is NOT a problem... Plus I have two flying foxes, one algae eater, and an otto... :( "js1" wrote in message ... On 2005-04-26, Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Yeah, it's called fertilizer. The nutrients in your tank are off. http://plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9 http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm More links about dosing your tank: http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~jr...ry%20pmdd.html http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm Without knowing the details of your tank, one possible start would be to have as the only inhabitants of your tank some SAE and other algae eating fish. Don't feed the tank at all, and let the algae eaters eat the algae. And, try to get your nutrient levels under control. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still
turning green within 3 days of a water change! "Elaine T" wrote in message m... Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
On 2005-04-26, Shagster wrote:
I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still turning green within 3 days of a water change! That's strange... the UV should work pretty good... should... What kind of plants do you have in there? It may be as simple as a nitrate/phosphate imbalance. What's your nitrate levels? You may want some nitrate sponges like Indian Fern or Anacharis. http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_viewer.php?id=52 You shouldn't dose unless you are measuring the levels. Plus, what other fish do you have in there besides the algae eaters? -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
On 2005-04-26, js1 wrote:
That's strange... the UV should work pretty good... should... Let me clarify... the UV filter should work good for the green water. Anything that passes through the UV light should get zapped. Worked great on my 4W/gal tank. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
Shagster wrote:
I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still turning green within 3 days of a water change! "Elaine T" wrote in message m... Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com Eek! That IS bad. I see why you're frustrated. BTW, your UV unit may need a new bulb or slower flow rate. It really should keep the green water at bay. The 95% water changes are a good plan and will lower nutrients to tapwater levels. Sort of a giant tank reset. Then you need to get nitrate and phosphate test kits and start watching nitrates and phosphates. Js1 gave you great links that will explain where to go from there. Come back and bug us for more info when you need it! -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
If he's getting green water within days of a wc then I would say the tank has'nt built up enough nitrifying bacteria yet. Free floating ammonia in the water column will always give you green water. Do a good gravel vacuum, clean your filter and start again, this time cycle the tank first! -- Kind Regards Cameron "Elaine T" wrote in message . .. Shagster wrote: I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still turning green within 3 days of a water change! "Elaine T" wrote in message m... Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com Eek! That IS bad. I see why you're frustrated. BTW, your UV unit may need a new bulb or slower flow rate. It really should keep the green water at bay. The 95% water changes are a good plan and will lower nutrients to tapwater levels. Sort of a giant tank reset. Then you need to get nitrate and phosphate test kits and start watching nitrates and phosphates. Js1 gave you great links that will explain where to go from there. Come back and bug us for more info when you need it! -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
Cycle the tank! It's been in operation for about 3 years now! The gravel
is terribly "dirty".. I'm not sure WHAT exactly all that "sludge" is... My fish are only fed 2x per week.....but there seems to be no end to the sludge.. I'll have to pull everything out and reset! Also, what can I do to get the algea off the plants?? Is there some type of water/bleach dip? "Happy'Cam'per" wrote in message ... If he's getting green water within days of a wc then I would say the tank has'nt built up enough nitrifying bacteria yet. Free floating ammonia in the water column will always give you green water. Do a good gravel vacuum, clean your filter and start again, this time cycle the tank first! -- Kind Regards Cameron "Elaine T" wrote in message . .. Shagster wrote: I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still turning green within 3 days of a water change! "Elaine T" wrote in message m... Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com Eek! That IS bad. I see why you're frustrated. BTW, your UV unit may need a new bulb or slower flow rate. It really should keep the green water at bay. The 95% water changes are a good plan and will lower nutrients to tapwater levels. Sort of a giant tank reset. Then you need to get nitrate and phosphate test kits and start watching nitrates and phosphates. Js1 gave you great links that will explain where to go from there. Come back and bug us for more info when you need it! -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
Shagster wrote:
Cycle the tank! It's been in operation for about 3 years now! The gravel is terribly "dirty".. I'm not sure WHAT exactly all that "sludge" is... My fish are only fed 2x per week.....but there seems to be no end to the sludge.. I'll have to pull everything out and reset! Also, what can I do to get the algea off the plants?? Is there some type of water/bleach dip? Ah - so you found the problem. Great! The sludge is broken down plant leaves and roots, fish droppings, and uneaten food. Bleach will set your plants back. Peroxide's a bit easier. However, most of us use algae eating fish, shrimp, and snails. You say you have 2 flying foxes - those aren't great algae eaters unless they're mislabeled C. siamensis. One "algae eater" - hopefully this isn't a Chinese algae eater because those don't eat much algae and get quite aggressive. One otocinclus - great algae eater, but you need about one otocinclus per 5 gallons for a heavily planted tank. They're shoaling too so he will appreciate company. Check out http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/ to learn about siamese algae eaters, chinese algae eaters, and flying foxes. My favorate algae eaters and scavengers are siamese algae eater Otocinclus spp. Ancistrus spp. - bristle nose plec Farlowella spp. - stick catfish Black mollies - 1 male, 2 female Ameca splendens - a bit aggressive and can be hard to find Amano shrimp Ramshorn snails (red are cool) - NOT the big columbian ramshorn Mystery snail - applesnail.net says how to identify the non-plant eating kind. How many and which depends on tank size and types of algae. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
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Thank you for the feedback.
"Elaine T" wrote in message ... Shagster wrote: Cycle the tank! It's been in operation for about 3 years now! The gravel is terribly "dirty".. I'm not sure WHAT exactly all that "sludge" is... My fish are only fed 2x per week.....but there seems to be no end to the sludge.. I'll have to pull everything out and reset! Also, what can I do to get the algea off the plants?? Is there some type of water/bleach dip? Ah - so you found the problem. Great! The sludge is broken down plant leaves and roots, fish droppings, and uneaten food. Bleach will set your plants back. Peroxide's a bit easier. However, most of us use algae eating fish, shrimp, and snails. You say you have 2 flying foxes - those aren't great algae eaters unless they're mislabeled C. siamensis. One "algae eater" - hopefully this isn't a Chinese algae eater because those don't eat much algae and get quite aggressive. One otocinclus - great algae eater, but you need about one otocinclus per 5 gallons for a heavily planted tank. They're shoaling too so he will appreciate company. Check out http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/ to learn about siamese algae eaters, chinese algae eaters, and flying foxes. My favorate algae eaters and scavengers are siamese algae eater Otocinclus spp. Ancistrus spp. - bristle nose plec Farlowella spp. - stick catfish Black mollies - 1 male, 2 female Ameca splendens - a bit aggressive and can be hard to find Amano shrimp Ramshorn snails (red are cool) - NOT the big columbian ramshorn Mystery snail - applesnail.net says how to identify the non-plant eating kind. How many and which depends on tank size and types of algae. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
Just one more thing you may try... I had green water when I first set up my
tank, as i'm sure we all did... My LFS recommended fresh water clams... They filter about 20 litres an hour (sorry, I don't know gallons) and don't have the same effect as some say UV units do on the water column... I put 2 in my 200litre tank and the green water was gone in one and a half days, I now keep one it at all times and he maintains everthing... Hope this helps... Justin. "Elaine T" wrote in message m... Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
In message , Justin
writes Just one more thing you may try... I had green water when I first set up my tank, as i'm sure we all did... My LFS recommended fresh water clams... They filter about 20 litres an hour (sorry, I don't know gallons) and don't have the same effect as some say UV units do on the water column... I put 2 in my 200litre tank and the green water was gone in one and a half days, I now keep one it at all times and he maintains everthing... that sounds very interesting. I managed to get rid of my green water by a) aggressive water changes (50% daily or every other day when daily wasn't possible) and b) adding a cheap box filter (airpump powered) to the tank. I think the combination was important, the water changes didn't seem to be helping on their own, except by diluting the algae. Within a week of starting the combination the water was absolutely crystal clear and has stayed that way (so far. This is a few weeks down the line only). I now leave the box filter on all day, it goes off at night. The green water outbreak coincided with the green hair algae which had been infesting EVERYTHING stopping growing. It is now growing again but very slowly. I don't have problem with green algae on rocks & driftwood, I think it looks natural and the goldfish eat vast quantities of it; it's been very good for them. I clean it off the glass with an old credit card if it starts to grow on there. Hope this helps... Justin. "Elaine T" wrote in message om... Shagster wrote: OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for me.... Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly?? Troy Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae. YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green. If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be fixed without chemicals. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com -- sophie www.freewebs.com/fishstuff (under construction. ish.) |
Just to add to the good advice you've already received.
Check your nitrates and phosphates and work on those. Algae loves both. I suspect that the sludge in the bottom of the tank is the real culprit - vacuum out as much out as possible - strip down as much as possble to acheive this. Check your tap water for nitrates and phosphates, the source water could also be contributing. Doing water changes with tap-water that is high in nitrates etc will not dilute the existing nitrates as much (or at least will not get them down to the minimum required). Plan on doing lots of water changes - perhaps 30 to 50% at a time a couple of times a week for a while until the nitrates are under control. Having done this, you could add a nitrate pad to your filter to keep it down. Also, clean your filters regularly (maybe once or twice a week at first) in tank water. The build up of detritus in the filter will often start feeding nitrates back into the system. Don't bother taking the chemical route, you need to fix the problem at source which is too many algae feeding nutrients - nitrate and phosphate. One other thought, in addition to the above, if you have planted aquarium, you could also add some CO2 (if you don't have it already) to get your plant growth up to it's maximum. Plants growing flat-out will use a lot more of the excess nutrients and so depriving the algae. Hope it helps Mark |
The bulb may not be good, replace it and it should take it out asap.
Regards, Tom Barr |
How big is the tank, do you use CO2? What brand is the UV/age?
Regards, Tom Barr |
It's a 29 Gallon tank, with CO2 injection right into the intake of my Fluval
204 canister filter.. I have a Turbo Twist 6x UV driven by a Quiet One 1200 pump... SUPPOSEDLY, the UV bulb is only about 4 months old.. I bought the unit used, so they may not have told the truth.. Troy wrote in message oups.com... How big is the tank, do you use CO2? What brand is the UV/age? Regards, Tom Barr |
On 2005-04-28, Troy Bruder wrote:
It's a 29 Gallon tank, with CO2 injection right into the intake of my Fluval 204 canister filter.. I have a Turbo Twist 6x UV driven by a Quiet One 1200 pump... How much lighting do you have in the 29G? -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
96 Watts.
"js1" wrote in message ... On 2005-04-28, Troy Bruder wrote: It's a 29 Gallon tank, with CO2 injection right into the intake of my Fluval 204 canister filter.. I have a Turbo Twist 6x UV driven by a Quiet One 1200 pump... How much lighting do you have in the 29G? -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
On 2005-04-29, Shagster wrote:
96 Watts. Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need to stock more plants. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
js1 wrote:
On 2005-04-29, Shagster wrote: 96 Watts. Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need to stock more plants. I had 60W of Tritons over a 29G and found it very managable too. If you don't have tremendously high light plants, I wonder if dropping the light a bit wouldn't help? Unless you're trying to grow submerged riccia or something, I don't know that you need that much light. I was growing bright red Rotala macrantha with no problems. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
O)kay, you have 96 watt of PC lighting over a small tank, you add CO2,
is this DIY or a Gas tank system? Either way, you need to make certain you have good high CO2 during the light cycle. 25-30ppm. As far as nutrients etc, adding them will not help nor hurt the algae. The UV should work fine, but something is wrong, most likely the bulb. Get a new one. In the meantime, don't worry, the algae will not hurt the plants, nor cause any problems, nor be going anywhere. Just be patient. After wards, the UV will roast the algae and this will not be a problem in the future again. Nutrient routine: 1/4 teaspoon KNO3, 1/16" KH2PO4 3x aweek 5mls of Trace mix, 3x a week. 50% weekly water change. Vacuum up any mulm/detritus and clean the equipment etc. Your tank will be very clean inside a couple of weeks and adding the new light will top things off. Add light for 10 hours. Regards, Tom Barr 3rd annual Plant Fest July 8-14th 2005! Get connected www.BarrReport.com Get the information |
Tom,
Thank you VERY much.. Right now, I have black algae all over the plants... You think it will go away?? Also, you mention 5ml of "Trace" mix.. Can you recommend one? THANKS! Troy wrote in message oups.com... O)kay, you have 96 watt of PC lighting over a small tank, you add CO2, is this DIY or a Gas tank system? Either way, you need to make certain you have good high CO2 during the light cycle. 25-30ppm. As far as nutrients etc, adding them will not help nor hurt the algae. The UV should work fine, but something is wrong, most likely the bulb. Get a new one. In the meantime, don't worry, the algae will not hurt the plants, nor cause any problems, nor be going anywhere. Just be patient. After wards, the UV will roast the algae and this will not be a problem in the future again. Nutrient routine: 1/4 teaspoon KNO3, 1/16" KH2PO4 3x aweek 5mls of Trace mix, 3x a week. 50% weekly water change. Vacuum up any mulm/detritus and clean the equipment etc. Your tank will be very clean inside a couple of weeks and adding the new light will top things off. Add light for 10 hours. Regards, Tom Barr 3rd annual Plant Fest July 8-14th 2005! Get connected www.BarrReport.com Get the information |
Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with
black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing replanting... THANKS! Troy "js1" wrote in message ... On 2005-04-29, Shagster wrote: 96 Watts. Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need to stock more plants. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
Shagster wrote:
Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing replanting... THANKS! Troy You need SAE to eat the black algae. Here's how to ID the fish. http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/ They're almost magical in their ablity to gradually clear the stuff out. "js1" wrote in message ... On 2005-04-29, Shagster wrote: 96 Watts. Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need to stock more plants. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
On 2005-04-30, Shagster wrote:
Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing replanting... The trick with SAE is not to feed them. That way, they will start looking for algae to eat instead of waiting for food. Maybe supplement their diet by feeding them once a week with algae wafers, but you just don't want them becoming dependent on your feeding. This is harder to do when you have other fish in the tank. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
No, the BBA will not go away on it's own, it will stop growing if you
add ample CO2, then it will no longer spread and new plant growth will appear. So trim it off. Add fresh plants if you need to trim off a lot. Keep the plant biomass up and the algae low. Bleaching is often suggested, but ther leaves look like crap afterwards and really don't recover well and offer no good support contribution for the plant. Beeter and easier to trim them off, replant with new plants and wait for the new growth to come in and then phase out cheapy plants. Next time, don't allow the tank to get that bad before you decide to treat and fix the issue. I know you did not know this to start with, but now you'll know what to do and how to do it. Then it becomes old hat and the same old thing over and over. TMG or Flourish are the two best Traces I feel. Sort of a subjective endorsement though. Regards, Tom Barr |
I have TWO of 'em.... Not the "fake" ones either... They ARE cleaning the
leaves... Since 5 straight days of water changes, plus manual cleaning of the plants, things are looking MUCH better. "js1" wrote in message ... On 2005-04-30, Shagster wrote: Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing replanting... The trick with SAE is not to feed them. That way, they will start looking for algae to eat instead of waiting for food. Maybe supplement their diet by feeding them once a week with algae wafers, but you just don't want them becoming dependent on your feeding. This is harder to do when you have other fish in the tank. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
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