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-   -   Ro-Di water storage (http://www.fishkeepingbanter.com/showthread.php?t=3800)

Reaper June 2nd 04 12:30 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper



J Codling June 2nd 04 01:25 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off from the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them completely sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells

musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper





Cuprous June 2nd 04 03:16 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."


reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off from the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them completely sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells

musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper





Reaper June 2nd 04 04:11 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state it is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow the
H2O to flow.

Reaper



"Cuprous" wrote in message
...

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."


reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off from the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them completely

sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one

that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed

them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has

such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells

musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at

a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper







CapFusion June 2nd 04 07:13 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 

"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state it

is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow the
H2O to flow.


My guess would be the smell is from the bleach. Try to let it circulate and
if the smell still there.

Pure water should not smell that bad as it attract or absorb ion or
particale surronding the area. I have a pitcher fill with pure water [1ppm
TDS] sitting for a day [from morning until off work] at one time that I
forgotten to dump it into the sump. I did not notice any smell.

As for J Codling, yes, the pure water will absorb any ion charge since it
low [reactive] since there ion being remove during the filtering process.
Being bad for human stomach lining is debatable as regarding to health. But
so far, I have not seen any article or report that I am aware of indicating
that pure water cause death to anyone. On this note I just mention, drinking
RODI water simply does have much taste or pale. But best is to drink RO with
some small or minor impurity like say 3ppm or so. Your immune will have
something to do. Too healthy is not good either.

CapFusion,...



Cuprous June 2nd 04 08:17 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Clearing up some of your confusion:

There is a BIG difference between something that is a good sovent
versus something that is very reactive. Pure water is a very good
solvent for a varienty of salts. It DOES NOT react with these salts or
much of anythign for that matter...


On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:13:58 -0700, "CapFusion"
CapeFussion...@hotmail..,com wrote:


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state it

is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow the
H2O to flow.


My guess would be the smell is from the bleach. Try to let it circulate and
if the smell still there.

Pure water should not smell that bad as it attract or absorb ion or
particale surronding the area. I have a pitcher fill with pure water [1ppm
TDS] sitting for a day [from morning until off work] at one time that I
forgotten to dump it into the sump. I did not notice any smell.

As for J Codling, yes, the pure water will absorb any ion charge since it
low [reactive] since there ion being remove during the filtering process.
Being bad for human stomach lining is debatable as regarding to health. But
so far, I have not seen any article or report that I am aware of indicating
that pure water cause death to anyone. On this note I just mention, drinking
RODI water simply does have much taste or pale. But best is to drink RO with
some small or minor impurity like say 3ppm or so. Your immune will have
something to do. Too healthy is not good either.

CapFusion,...



CapFusion June 2nd 04 09:53 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 

"Cuprous" wrote in message
...
Clearing up some of your confusion:

There is a BIG difference between something that is a good sovent
versus something that is very reactive. Pure water is a very good
solvent for a varienty of salts. It DOES NOT react with these salts or
much of anythign for that matter...



Ok.... maybe you are right. Pure water can dissolve like salt. So it does
not react to any ION? Maybe I am in confusion as you stated. Does not pure
water have low ION since it being filter out? TDS meter normally can detect
any ION present [+/-] charge in the water but for those neutral ION it will
not be detect. Can you explain to me in detail. I would like to have better
understanding or the relationship. I alway thought in pure water form, any
ION near it, it will absorb [react]. Humm.... or maybe Boomer can explain
this to me or have a link.

CapFusion,...



CheezWiz June 3rd 04 04:47 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Here we go with that again.....
The saliva in our mouths adds enough stuff to the water to prevent that
BS...


"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state it

is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow the
H2O to flow.

Reaper



"Cuprous" wrote in message
...

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."


reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off from

the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them completely

sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off

otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one

that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed

them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has

such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells
musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O

at
a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper









CheezWiz June 3rd 04 04:53 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
From a post many moons ago.....


Found this scientific explanation as to why drinking pure water is harmless.
The body is pre-equipped to do this. By drinking pure water, one simply
reduces the risk of intake of "bad stuff" that could be in the water. Of
course the cost goes up as DI filters are not incredibly cheap. However they
are not incredibly expensive either....

"
As stated by DR Arthur L Guyton in 1991 The kidneys control the overall
concentrations of the constituants of body fluids. It filters about 180
liters of water per day, over 99% is reabsorbed and 1 to 1.5 liters are
eliminated as urine. If the osmolality of the fluid to be filtered by the
kidney is lower than normal, nervous and hormonal feedback cause the kidney
to excrete more water than normal and maintain the ion concentration in the
body at normal values. The opposite is true if the ion concentration of the
fluid to be filtered is higher than normal. The kidney homeostatic mechanism
keeps the body fluid osmolality normal.The three basic hormonal and nervous
control systemstriggered by abnormal ion concentrations are the antidiuretic
hormone (ADH) from the pituatary gland, aldosterone from the adrenal glands
and thirst because thirst is caused by a 1% rise in osmolality. Because of
these kidney control mechanisms, drinking one liter of water would cause the
urine output to increase about 9 times after 45 minutes and continue for
about two hours. Thus the concentrations of solutes in the blood and other
body fluids are quickly maintained by the the kidneythrough homeostasis.
these control mechanisms keep the sodium concentration at 7%. Calcium
concentration is controlled by parathyroid hormone to + a few percent in the
extracellular body fluid. Also, Saliva increases the ion concentrations
during water intake. The concentration of sodium chloride in saliva is
typically 15 milliequivalents per liter or 877 mg/L that of potassium is
about 30 milliequivalents per liter or 1170 mg/L. As low TDS water is
consumed, it is combined with saliva which increases the TDS before it
reaches the stomach to be absorbed. Each one millileter of saliva can
increase the TDS level in eight ounces water consumed by about 10 mg/L.
Basicly any changes from normal ion concentration will be corrected in one
minute or less because of the fast pace of water through the cell membranes.
Sosmall changes in osmolality (ion concentration)
are quicly brought to an equilibrium........
"

"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state it

is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow the
H2O to flow.

Reaper



"Cuprous" wrote in message
...

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."


reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off from

the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them completely

sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off

otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one

that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed

them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has

such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells
musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O

at
a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper









CapFusion June 3rd 04 05:10 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 

"CheezWiz" wrote in message
...
Here we go with that again.....
The saliva in our mouths adds enough stuff to the water to prevent that
BS...



Yes.... Many many many moon plus sun or season ago.
Saliva and other thing like lemon juice etc.

CapFusion,...



CapFusion June 3rd 04 05:12 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Do you have that link. This will be alot easier to point to if someone
similar ......

CapFusion,...


"CheezWiz" wrote in message
...
From a post many moons ago.....


Found this scientific explanation as to why drinking pure water is

harmless.
The body is pre-equipped to do this. By drinking pure water, one simply
reduces the risk of intake of "bad stuff" that could be in the water. Of
course the cost goes up as DI filters are not incredibly cheap. However

they
are not incredibly expensive either....

"
As stated by DR Arthur L Guyton in 1991 The kidneys control the overall
concentrations of the constituants of body fluids. It filters about 180
liters of water per day, over 99% is reabsorbed and 1 to 1.5 liters are
eliminated as urine. If the osmolality of the fluid to be filtered by the
kidney is lower than normal, nervous and hormonal feedback cause the

kidney
to excrete more water than normal and maintain the ion concentration in

the
body at normal values. The opposite is true if the ion concentration of

the
fluid to be filtered is higher than normal. The kidney homeostatic

mechanism
keeps the body fluid osmolality normal.The three basic hormonal and

nervous
control systemstriggered by abnormal ion concentrations are the

antidiuretic
hormone (ADH) from the pituatary gland, aldosterone from the adrenal

glands
and thirst because thirst is caused by a 1% rise in osmolality. Because of
these kidney control mechanisms, drinking one liter of water would cause

the
urine output to increase about 9 times after 45 minutes and continue for
about two hours. Thus the concentrations of solutes in the blood and other
body fluids are quickly maintained by the the kidneythrough homeostasis.
these control mechanisms keep the sodium concentration at 7%. Calcium
concentration is controlled by parathyroid hormone to + a few percent in

the
extracellular body fluid. Also, Saliva increases the ion concentrations
during water intake. The concentration of sodium chloride in saliva is
typically 15 milliequivalents per liter or 877 mg/L that of potassium is
about 30 milliequivalents per liter or 1170 mg/L. As low TDS water is
consumed, it is combined with saliva which increases the TDS before it
reaches the stomach to be absorbed. Each one millileter of saliva can
increase the TDS level in eight ounces water consumed by about 10 mg/L.
Basicly any changes from normal ion concentration will be corrected in one
minute or less because of the fast pace of water through the cell

membranes.
Sosmall changes in osmolality (ion concentration)
are quicly brought to an equilibrium........
"

"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state it

is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not

very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all

of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell

coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow

the
H2O to flow.

Reaper



"Cuprous" wrote in message
...

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."

reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off from

the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them completely

sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off

otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and

one
that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and

rinsed
them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has

such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water

smells
musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di

H2O
at
a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper











Matthew Comstock June 3rd 04 08:51 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Cuprous wrote:
Clearing up some of your confusion:

There is a BIG difference between something that is a good sovent
versus something that is very reactive. Pure water is a very good
solvent for a varienty of salts. It DOES NOT react with these salts or
much of anythign for that matter...



While it is true that solvation and reactivity are not the same, it is
clear you are not a chemist. Water is HIGHLY reactive as chemicals go.
It reacts with all sorts of things, in all sorts of ways. It is an
oxidizer and a reducing agent, an acid and a base, all sorts of things
depending on the circumstances. It is also a good solvent, but that is,
as you correctly stated, a different story entirely. There is very
little that doesn't react with water in one way or another.

-mat


CheezWiz June 4th 04 01:41 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
No,

It took a lot of reading to find the articles I quoted.... I am unable to
find them now...

http://216.239.51.104/search?q=cache...+overall&hl=en

http://www.aquarium-forum.com/reefs/...nd_219061.html



"CapFusion" CapeFussion...@hotmail..,com wrote in message
...
Do you have that link. This will be alot easier to point to if someone
similar ......

CapFusion,...


"CheezWiz" wrote in message
...
From a post many moons ago.....


Found this scientific explanation as to why drinking pure water is

harmless.
The body is pre-equipped to do this. By drinking pure water, one simply
reduces the risk of intake of "bad stuff" that could be in the water. Of
course the cost goes up as DI filters are not incredibly cheap. However

they
are not incredibly expensive either....

"
As stated by DR Arthur L Guyton in 1991 The kidneys control the overall
concentrations of the constituants of body fluids. It filters about 180
liters of water per day, over 99% is reabsorbed and 1 to 1.5 liters are
eliminated as urine. If the osmolality of the fluid to be filtered by

the
kidney is lower than normal, nervous and hormonal feedback cause the

kidney
to excrete more water than normal and maintain the ion concentration in

the
body at normal values. The opposite is true if the ion concentration of

the
fluid to be filtered is higher than normal. The kidney homeostatic

mechanism
keeps the body fluid osmolality normal.The three basic hormonal and

nervous
control systemstriggered by abnormal ion concentrations are the

antidiuretic
hormone (ADH) from the pituatary gland, aldosterone from the adrenal

glands
and thirst because thirst is caused by a 1% rise in osmolality. Because

of
these kidney control mechanisms, drinking one liter of water would cause

the
urine output to increase about 9 times after 45 minutes and continue for
about two hours. Thus the concentrations of solutes in the blood and

other
body fluids are quickly maintained by the the kidneythrough homeostasis.
these control mechanisms keep the sodium concentration at 7%. Calcium
concentration is controlled by parathyroid hormone to + a few percent in

the
extracellular body fluid. Also, Saliva increases the ion concentrations
during water intake. The concentration of sodium chloride in saliva is
typically 15 milliequivalents per liter or 877 mg/L that of potassium is
about 30 milliequivalents per liter or 1170 mg/L. As low TDS water is
consumed, it is combined with saliva which increases the TDS before it
reaches the stomach to be absorbed. Each one millileter of saliva can
increase the TDS level in eight ounces water consumed by about 10 mg/L.
Basicly any changes from normal ion concentration will be corrected in

one
minute or less because of the fast pace of water through the cell

membranes.
Sosmall changes in osmolality (ion concentration)
are quicly brought to an equilibrium........
"

"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal state

it
is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not

very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls all

of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell

coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to allow

the
H2O to flow.

Reaper



"Cuprous" wrote in message
...

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."

reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off

from
the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them

completely
sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off

otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and

one
that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and

rinsed
them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20

has
such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water

smells
musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di

H2O
at
a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper













Marc Levenson June 4th 04 07:28 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Hi Reaper,

I have found that I do not like the taste of RO/DI water whatsoever. It almost
taste like metal is in the water. If you own a TDS meter, you can see if that
is the problem. Otherwise, your containers might not be completely devoid of
the bleach you used.

If you like, clean them again with a 10:1 mixture of water & bleach. (10 parts
water to 1 part bleach). Scrub it well, then rinse it even better. Let it air
dry for 24 hours. Now your container should be safe to use, although I'm not
familiar with fiberglas containers myself. Are they even considered Food-Safe?

If you still have a problem with the water, you may have to put a circulation
pump in there to keep the water from sitting stagnant.

Also, where to you keep these containers? Are they sitting outdoors, in the
heat? Does sun cook the water? What is the lid made of? A small vent hole is
okay, but if you could cover it after the water is made, it would be even
better.

Marc


Reaper wrote:

I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper


--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com



CapFusion June 4th 04 05:03 PM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Thank for the link. I saw a few similar article but can not find it and
other link no longer valid.

CapFusion,...

"CheezWiz" wrote in message
...
No,

It took a lot of reading to find the articles I quoted.... I am unable to
find them now...


http://216.239.51.104/search?q=cache...tripod.com/ro_
di.html+As+stated+by+DR+Arthur+L+Guyton+in+1991+Th e+kidneys+control+the+over
all&hl=en

http://www.aquarium-forum.com/reefs/...nd_219061.html



"CapFusion" CapeFussion...@hotmail..,com wrote in message
...
Do you have that link. This will be alot easier to point to if someone
similar ......

CapFusion,...


"CheezWiz" wrote in message
...
From a post many moons ago.....


Found this scientific explanation as to why drinking pure water is

harmless.
The body is pre-equipped to do this. By drinking pure water, one

simply
reduces the risk of intake of "bad stuff" that could be in the water.

Of
course the cost goes up as DI filters are not incredibly cheap.

However
they
are not incredibly expensive either....

"
As stated by DR Arthur L Guyton in 1991 The kidneys control the

overall
concentrations of the constituants of body fluids. It filters about

180
liters of water per day, over 99% is reabsorbed and 1 to 1.5 liters

are
eliminated as urine. If the osmolality of the fluid to be filtered by

the
kidney is lower than normal, nervous and hormonal feedback cause the

kidney
to excrete more water than normal and maintain the ion concentration

in
the
body at normal values. The opposite is true if the ion concentration

of
the
fluid to be filtered is higher than normal. The kidney homeostatic

mechanism
keeps the body fluid osmolality normal.The three basic hormonal and

nervous
control systemstriggered by abnormal ion concentrations are the

antidiuretic
hormone (ADH) from the pituatary gland, aldosterone from the adrenal

glands
and thirst because thirst is caused by a 1% rise in osmolality.

Because
of
these kidney control mechanisms, drinking one liter of water would

cause
the
urine output to increase about 9 times after 45 minutes and continue

for
about two hours. Thus the concentrations of solutes in the blood and

other
body fluids are quickly maintained by the the kidneythrough

homeostasis.
these control mechanisms keep the sodium concentration at 7%. Calcium
concentration is controlled by parathyroid hormone to + a few percent

in
the
extracellular body fluid. Also, Saliva increases the ion

concentrations
during water intake. The concentration of sodium chloride in saliva is
typically 15 milliequivalents per liter or 877 mg/L that of potassium

is
about 30 milliequivalents per liter or 1170 mg/L. As low TDS water is
consumed, it is combined with saliva which increases the TDS before it
reaches the stomach to be absorbed. Each one millileter of saliva can
increase the TDS level in eight ounces water consumed by about 10

mg/L.
Basicly any changes from normal ion concentration will be corrected in

one
minute or less because of the fast pace of water through the cell

membranes.
Sosmall changes in osmolality (ion concentration)
are quicly brought to an equilibrium........
"

"Reaper" wrote in message
om...
Pure H2O is one of the best solvents, that is why in its normal

state
it
is
hard, full of minerals and other stuff it dissolved, pure H2O is not

very
good to drink because when it touches your stomach lining it pulls

all
of
the salt out of the cells, it is very reactive.

My thoughts are if it is lacking nutrients where is the musty smell

coming
from? and if it is reactive how is anything living in it?

My tanks are sealed the best I can because I need an air hole to

allow
the
H2O to flow.

Reaper



"Cuprous" wrote in message
...

"... RO/DI water is highly reactive, this includes air for sure."

reactive? Since when? Any type of water is about as inert as you

can
get

On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 00:25:39 GMT, "J Codling"
wrote:

If you're using this as drinking water it needs to be sealed off

from
the
air and stored in an NSF approved container. RO/DI water is

highly
reactive, this includes air for sure. Do you have them

completely
sealed
off? If not, then you will need to find a way to seal them off
otherwise
you're fighting a losing battle.

Hope that helps.

Jim


"Reaper" wrote in message
. com...
I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O)

and
one
that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and

rinsed
them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20

has
such a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water

smells
musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of

Di
H2O
at
a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper















Reaper June 5th 04 02:22 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Marc, thanks for replying, didn't think I would start heated discussion
about H2O chemistry, I learned some stuff, thanks all.

Back on point, about these containers, torpedo shaped.1 ( 45gal,RO/DI ) was
once a H2O filter for a house, it was filled with glass beads, it is 5.5'
tall and about 18" around, I put a bulkhead fitting on the bottom to access
the H2O, I found 2 90 degree bulkhead fittings at a marine surplus supply
store and put one on the top pointing down and one at the bottom pointing up
and put a piece of clear tubing between them for a site tube, similar to a
large coffee pot, also installed on the top a Kent Marine float valve, the
25 gal container is plumbed the same and it was specifically designed for
drinking H2O storage, I bleached similar to what you described, I am
thinking of using muriatic acid to clean them. I used the garbage can system
and had a similar musty metallic smell but not nearly as bad. On the top of
the 45gal container is a 4" cap that screws in it has an 1/8" hole in it, on
the 25gal container I use an upside-down paper plate until I can find
another screw in cap.

These containers are inside in a non air-conditioned room that gets to about
90 degrees during the day.

will try the circulation pump soon.

What do you think of peroxide as an alternative to chlorine as a storage
disinfectant?

Another alternative is to bubble ozone through the H2O.

Thanks,

Reaper

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
Hi Reaper,

I have found that I do not like the taste of RO/DI water whatsoever. It

almost
taste like metal is in the water. If you own a TDS meter, you can see if

that
is the problem. Otherwise, your containers might not be completely devoid

of
the bleach you used.

If you like, clean them again with a 10:1 mixture of water & bleach. (10

parts
water to 1 part bleach). Scrub it well, then rinse it even better. Let

it air
dry for 24 hours. Now your container should be safe to use, although I'm

not
familiar with fiberglas containers myself. Are they even considered

Food-Safe?

If you still have a problem with the water, you may have to put a

circulation
pump in there to keep the water from sitting stagnant.

Also, where to you keep these containers? Are they sitting outdoors, in

the
heat? Does sun cook the water? What is the lid made of? A small vent

hole is
okay, but if you could cover it after the water is made, it would be even
better.

Marc


Reaper wrote:

I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one

that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed

them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has such

a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells

musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at

a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper


--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com






Marc Levenson June 5th 04 04:20 AM

Ro-Di water storage
 
Man, I've got no idea. I only make up 10g at a time, which are kept in sealed
containers. I can open them up a week later and TDS is still 0. It could be
that over the years, something leached into those torpedo shaped cylinders and
now it is leaching out ever so slowly, especially now that you have RO/DI water
in there. That stuff is just begging for something to mix into it, and whatever
was in the fiberglas might be coming out.

Circulation is the first thing, carbon might be the next.

You might even test the water coming out of the unit after it has been stored
for a few hours, few days, and a week or more. There are tests for Chlorine,
Copper, Oxygen, Phosphate, Nitrate, Iodine, Ammonia and all of those are
potentially present in water, even after it has been filtered.

Marc


Reaper wrote:

Marc, thanks for replying, didn't think I would start heated discussion
about H2O chemistry, I learned some stuff, thanks all.

Back on point, about these containers, torpedo shaped.1 ( 45gal,RO/DI ) was
once a H2O filter for a house, it was filled with glass beads, it is 5.5'
tall and about 18" around, I put a bulkhead fitting on the bottom to access
the H2O, I found 2 90 degree bulkhead fittings at a marine surplus supply
store and put one on the top pointing down and one at the bottom pointing up
and put a piece of clear tubing between them for a site tube, similar to a
large coffee pot, also installed on the top a Kent Marine float valve, the
25 gal container is plumbed the same and it was specifically designed for
drinking H2O storage, I bleached similar to what you described, I am
thinking of using muriatic acid to clean them. I used the garbage can system
and had a similar musty metallic smell but not nearly as bad. On the top of
the 45gal container is a 4" cap that screws in it has an 1/8" hole in it, on
the 25gal container I use an upside-down paper plate until I can find
another screw in cap.

These containers are inside in a non air-conditioned room that gets to about
90 degrees during the day.

will try the circulation pump soon.

What do you think of peroxide as an alternative to chlorine as a storage
disinfectant?

Another alternative is to bubble ozone through the H2O.

Thanks,

Reaper

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
Hi Reaper,

I have found that I do not like the taste of RO/DI water whatsoever. It

almost
taste like metal is in the water. If you own a TDS meter, you can see if

that
is the problem. Otherwise, your containers might not be completely devoid

of
the bleach you used.

If you like, clean them again with a 10:1 mixture of water & bleach. (10

parts
water to 1 part bleach). Scrub it well, then rinse it even better. Let

it air
dry for 24 hours. Now your container should be safe to use, although I'm

not
familiar with fiberglas containers myself. Are they even considered

Food-Safe?

If you still have a problem with the water, you may have to put a

circulation
pump in there to keep the water from sitting stagnant.

Also, where to you keep these containers? Are they sitting outdoors, in

the
heat? Does sun cook the water? What is the lid made of? A small vent

hole is
okay, but if you could cover it after the water is made, it would be even
better.

Marc


Reaper wrote:

I have 2 fiberglass cylinders one that holds 45 gal (Di H2O) and one

that
holds 25 gal (Ro H2O) I bleached these tanks out for days and rinsed

them
thoroughly, one week after storing H2O in them the Ro tanks H20 has such

a
musty smell and taste, we cannot drink it, the Di tanks water smells

musty,
I do not try to store more than 10 gal of Ro H2O or 20 gal of Di H2O at

a
time unless I am going to do an H2O change (Di H2O).

Any suggestions? would a little peroxide help????

TIA,

Reaper


--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com




--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com




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