![]() |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 Hi all, My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my ammonia is approaching 2 ppm, my nitrite is just over 0.25 ppm and my nitrate is 5 ppm. These readings have not changed in the past ten days. The ammonia will decrease with a 25% water change, but NO2 and NO3 remain basically the same. The pH is 7.6, the tank temp is 75 F. Tank light is on for about 12 hours a day. No live plants. Feedings have been very restricted, with many skipped days. Should I just be patient or what? Why am I not seeing the ammonia drop if there is nitrite *and* nitrate present? TIA, Fred -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.3 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEX5/BJXD4LJUXJmMRAkmTAJ93N8+7aeUJsxTAP7RCdWiwhNGaVgCeK CEk 70VFWkstzkhl/g1hnx15DiU= =bdc9 -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- "Never put off till tomorrow what you can do the day after." --Alphonse Allais |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
"Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my ammonia is approaching 2 ppm, my nitrite is just over 0.25 ppm and my nitrate is 5 ppm. These readings have not changed in the past ten days. The ammonia will decrease with a 25% water change, but NO2 and NO3 remain basically the same. The pH is 7.6, the tank temp is 75 F. Tank light is on for about 12 hours a day. No live plants. Feedings have been very restricted, with many skipped days. ============= At this point if it was my tank I would try and get some "ripe" filter material from someone with a cycled tank. What about your favorite LFS? Surely they can spare you something to get your tank cycled. Over 2 months? Something doesn't sound right there........ but then, 6 fish... how large is this tank? Could there be chlorimines in your water, not chlorine? -- Koi-Lo.... Frugal ponding since 1995. Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Aquarium FAQ are at: http://faq.thekrib.com/ ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Koi-Lo wrote: "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my ammonia is approaching 2 ppm, my nitrite is just over 0.25 ppm and my nitrate is 5 ppm. At this point if it was my tank I would try and get some "ripe" filter material from someone with a cycled tank. What about your favorite LFS? Surely they can spare you something to get your tank cycled. Over 2 months? Something doesn't sound right there........ but then, 6 fish... how large is this tank? Could there be chlorimines in your water, not chlorine? The tank is 10 gallons. I use Aquasafe: 1/4 teaspoon for every 2.5 gallon bucket. I siphon off 2.5 gallons and put back 2.5 gallons (different, dedicated buckets). I assume that if there is nitrite and nitrate present that both sorts of bacteria are also present, no? Not a lot of fish, true...I had three neon tetras but they died pretty soon after introduction (I assume the pH was way off for them). I'm a patient person but I just want to know what could be causing the cycle to take so long, especially after having spent many, many hours researching and reading online and elsewhere to make everything right. I haven't found anything that addresses unusually protracted cycling. Again, the fish don't *appear* to be suffering, and they are very hungry and active. I just would like to add some more at some point... Thanks for the response. Fred -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.3 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEX6bTJXD4LJUXJmMRAnQ1AJ49HxYX2ZOvVwxz9neTZM abAJg1BQCdHvnj aRn3ZUYBP+shZwJzoNH6+Fw= =/8yE -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- "Never put off till tomorrow what you can do the day after." --Alphonse Allais |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
Frederick B. Henry Jr. wrote:
My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my ammonia is approaching 2 ppm, my nitrite is just over 0.25 ppm and my nitrate is 5 ppm. These readings have not changed in the past ten days. The ammonia will decrease with a 25% water change, but NO2 and NO3 remain basically the same. The pH is 7.6, the tank temp is 75 F. Tank light is on for about 12 hours a day. No live plants. Feedings have been very restricted, with many skipped days. Should I just be patient or what? Why am I not seeing the ammonia drop if there is nitrite *and* nitrate present? What water conditioner and ammonia test are you using? Ammonia bound by AmQuel, Prime, Ammo-Lock, and similar chloramine treatments registers on many test kits as free ammonia. -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to email me. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Altum wrote: Frederick B. Henry Jr. wrote: Should I just be patient or what? Why am I not seeing the ammonia drop if there is nitrite *and* nitrate present? What water conditioner and ammonia test are you using? Ammonia bound by AmQuel, Prime, Ammo-Lock, and similar chloramine treatments registers on many test kits as free ammonia. I use Tetra AquaSafe as a water conditioner. I have the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit that has pH, High pH, Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests (4 test tubes). I also have some dip stick tests (forget the brand, but the dip stick also does GH and KH). The ammonia has never gone over 2 ppm. The nitrite is only just shading over 0.25 ppm. Nitrate is always at 5 ppm. When the ammonia approches 2 ppm I do a water change. Feed sparingly, as I said. I am at a loss... Fred -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.3 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEX6vKJXD4LJUXJmMRAnmcAJ9h5nUPPM94wbSGk5DL/eaXyq4xHgCfThlS Ap3Co7R+0ckSxqlW5CMzoyU= =BfYO -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- "Never put off till tomorrow what you can do the day after." --Alphonse Allais |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
On Mon, 08 May 2006 20:17:07 -0000, "Frederick B. Henry Jr."
wrote: -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Koi-Lo wrote: "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my ammonia is approaching 2 ppm, my nitrite is just over 0.25 ppm and my nitrate is 5 ppm. At this point if it was my tank I would try and get some "ripe" filter material from someone with a cycled tank. What about your favorite LFS? Surely they can spare you something to get your tank cycled. Over 2 months? Something doesn't sound right there........ but then, 6 fish... how large is this tank? Could there be chlorimines in your water, not chlorine? The tank is 10 gallons. I use Aquasafe: 1/4 teaspoon for every 2.5 gallon bucket. I siphon off 2.5 gallons and put back 2.5 gallons (different, dedicated buckets). I assume that if there is nitrite and nitrate present that both sorts of bacteria are also present, no? Not a lot of fish, true...I had three neon tetras but they died pretty soon after introduction (I assume the pH was way off for them). I'm a patient person but I just want to know what could be causing the cycle to take so long, especially after having spent many, many hours researching and reading online and elsewhere to make everything right. I haven't found anything that addresses unusually protracted cycling. Again, the fish don't *appear* to be suffering, and they are very hungry and active. I just would like to add some more at some point... Thanks for the response. Fred Actually, 6 fish in a 10 gallon is a lot of fish for cycling, more than enough. Have you taken a sample of water to your lfs for testing? Can you bring home a cup of seasoned gravel from a lfs tank? Test kits can lie sometimes. How is your tank furnished? Gravel? Ornaments? Plants? Sponge in the filter? All places for bacteria to grab hold of and grow? If you have gravel, go easy on the vacuuming as you want bacteria to grow there. During the cycling phase, you don't want to be scrubbing anything to squeaky clean. Hmmm. -- Mister Gardener -- Pull the WEED to email me |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Mister Gardener wrote: On Mon, 08 May 2006 20:17:07 -0000, "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote: -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Koi-Lo wrote: "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my Actually, 6 fish in a 10 gallon is a lot of fish for cycling, more than enough. Have you taken a sample of water to your lfs for testing? Can you bring home a cup of seasoned gravel from a lfs tank? Test kits can lie sometimes. How is your tank furnished? Gravel? Ornaments? Plants? Sponge in the filter? All places for bacteria to grab hold of and grow? If you have gravel, go easy on the vacuuming as you want bacteria to grow there. During the cycling phase, you don't want to be scrubbing anything to squeaky clean. Hmmm. OK, here is the deal. I change the water only when the ammonia gets around or over that 2 ppm level. I don't vacumm the gravel, though I did in the beginning. I feed the fish *very* sparingly. I effectively have two testing kits: 1) aquarium pharma kit 2) dip stick. They coincide. My test kits are not off. There is brown algae growing like crazy (here in Chicago we have a high silica level). The water is hard as ell and clear. I only scrub the brown stuff off because it was literally obscuring my view. I use tap water treated with Aquasafe. My buckets are clean and dedicated. I just dons't know why it is taking so long.... :( Fred -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.3 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEX788JXD4LJUXJmMRArYZAKCHDb0zaULqOUutD1IEWw yL4htLDgCfdhqD Jrdsn0TchwNc0VGOiQ2tVYo= =kHgp -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- "Never put off till tomorrow what you can do the day after." --Alphonse Allais |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
Frederick B. Henry Jr. wrote:
I use Tetra AquaSafe as a water conditioner. I have the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit that has pH, High pH, Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests (4 test tubes). I also have some dip stick tests (forget the brand, but the dip stick also does GH and KH). The ammonia has never gone over 2 ppm. The nitrite is only just shading over 0.25 ppm. Nitrate is always at 5 ppm. When the ammonia approches 2 ppm I do a water change. Feed sparingly, as I said. I am at a loss... Forgot one other thing - do you have chlorine or chloramine? Here's what might be happening... Cloramine = ammonia + chlorine. Treat with normal dechlor, and you end up with quite a bit of free ammonia. Water conditioners designed for chloramines like AquaSafe, Ammo-Lock, Prime, and AmQuel react with the ammonia to make it nontoxic. This causes two problems: 1) The bound ammonia may not be available to feed filter bacteria. Kordon is the only manufacturer who has actually tested to be sure bacteria can break down the bound ammonia. I don't use other products in cycling tanks. 2) You can get spurious ammonia test readings. AP states that its MasterTest ammonia kit will test positive in the presence of AP Ammo-Lock bound ammonia. Kordon's AmQuel and AmQuel+ react directly with Nessler ammonia reagents and cause a high false positive reading with or without ammonia. (Salicylate kits change is yellow to greenish-yellow with increasing ammonia. Nessler kits go from clear to orange-yellow.) I use plain AmQuel and AP's Dry Tab kit and get reasonable ammonia readings. You could also try switching to Tetra's ammonia kit since Tetra claims it's compatible with AquaSafe. -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to email me. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
"Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Koi-Lo wrote: "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my ammonia is approaching 2 ppm, my nitrite is just over 0.25 ppm and my nitrate is 5 ppm. At this point if it was my tank I would try and get some "ripe" filter material from someone with a cycled tank. What about your favorite LFS? Surely they can spare you something to get your tank cycled. Over 2 months? Something doesn't sound right there........ but then, 6 fish... how large is this tank? Could there be chlorimines in your water, not chlorine? The tank is 10 gallons. I use Aquasafe: 1/4 teaspoon for every 2.5 gallon bucket. I siphon off 2.5 gallons and put back 2.5 gallons (different, dedicated buckets). I assume that if there is nitrite and nitrate present that both sorts of bacteria are also present, no? The nitrates may be coming from your tap. I get nitrates as high as 20ppm from my tap. :-( Not a lot of fish, true...I had three neon tetras but they died pretty soon after introduction (I assume the pH was way off for them). I'm a patient person but I just want to know what could be causing the cycle to take so long, especially after having spent many, many hours researching and reading online and elsewhere to make everything right. I haven't found anything that addresses unusually protracted cycling. Something apparently is. Or I would think so. Since ours is a multi-tank household and has been since the day of the flood, I seldom run into problems cycling a tank. Someone with more knowledge of cycling problems will come along I'm sure. Watch this spot. :-) Again, the fish don't *appear* to be suffering, and they are very hungry and active. I just would like to add some more at some point... Thanks for the response. Fred -- Koi-Lo.... Frugal ponding since 1995. Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
"Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... Feed sparingly, as I said. I am at a loss... =============== Feeding them *sparingly* could be causing stress for fish after 2 months. Excessive food and fish waste doesn't seem to be causing your problem. -- Koi-Lo.... Frugal ponding since 1995. Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
Hi, I also have the AP master test kit and never get a zero reading for
ammonia or nitrates. I've taken a sample to a LFS and they have used a different kit and told me it was clear. I always get the minimum reading. I've had this discussion with others on this board who also have the same problem. Take a sample to an LFS who uses a different kit and see what they say. I have to say that the dip strips that I've used haven't been at all impressive. I still use the AP test as i like the ease of testing. I just know to expect these reading. Hope this helps Mellie |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
On Mon, 08 May 2006 22:00:48 -0000, "Frederick B. Henry Jr."
wrote: -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Mister Gardener wrote: On Mon, 08 May 2006 20:17:07 -0000, "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote: -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Koi-Lo wrote: "Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... My 3 black neon tetras, 1 h. rasbora and 2 glowlight tetras seem very happy, and aside from the diatom/brown algae I have to scrub away with water changes, the tank is clear. Today, more than two months after I set up the 10g tank, and after even trying some (useless) Cycle, my Actually, 6 fish in a 10 gallon is a lot of fish for cycling, more than enough. Have you taken a sample of water to your lfs for testing? Can you bring home a cup of seasoned gravel from a lfs tank? Test kits can lie sometimes. How is your tank furnished? Gravel? Ornaments? Plants? Sponge in the filter? All places for bacteria to grab hold of and grow? If you have gravel, go easy on the vacuuming as you want bacteria to grow there. During the cycling phase, you don't want to be scrubbing anything to squeaky clean. Hmmm. OK, here is the deal. I change the water only when the ammonia gets around or over that 2 ppm level. I don't vacumm the gravel, though I did in the beginning. I feed the fish *very* sparingly. I effectively have two testing kits: 1) aquarium pharma kit 2) dip stick. They coincide. My test kits are not off. There is brown algae growing like crazy (here in Chicago we have a high silica level). The water is hard as ell and clear. I only scrub the brown stuff off because it was literally obscuring my view. I use tap water treated with Aquasafe. My buckets are clean and dedicated. I just dons't know why it is taking so long.... :( Fred I think we've asked all the right questions, and I think you gave all the right answers. And we're not getting very far. Has Richard logged in on this thread? Netmax maybe? Dr. Axelrod? -- Mister Gardener -- Pull the WEED to email me |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-08, Mellie101 wrote: Hi, I also have the AP master test kit and never get a zero reading for ammonia or nitrates. I've taken a sample to a LFS and they have used a different kit and told me it was clear. I always get the minimum reading. I've had this discussion with others on this board who also have the same problem. Take a sample to an LFS who uses a different kit and see what they say. I have to say that the dip strips that I've used haven't been at all impressive. I still use the AP test as i like the ease of testing. I just know to expect these reading. Hope this helps Mellie Thanks. I definitely will take a sample to the LFS. The dip stick tests I bought mainly because I wanted GH and KH readings (which the AP master kit lacks). But I find the colors far more difficult to interpret than the AP liquid tests. I know I have very hard water (lake Michigan water) and good buffering. pH stays around 7.5/6 Gee, maybe I should be keeping smelts or lake trout ;) -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.3 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEYLcmJXD4LJUXJmMRAuatAJwIneX5DcVuhizJlIHbBN FHPdVn/ACgiL6Y VNwKkFgwcqHsKcNWvKdx/S0= =ui8S -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- "Never put off till tomorrow what you can do the day after." --Alphonse Allais |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
I live in Madison, WI and can sympathize with your rock hard water. A
10 gal tank is pretty small for most African cichlids, but they thrive in my 54 gal corner tank. You might post a few questions to: http://www.cichlidforum.com/ asking what species would work for a 10 gal tank. What type of filtration are you using? The benefical bacteria will grow in your gravel and on your ornaments, but they will be abundant in a good sponge filter or bio wheel. I had a 2 gal tank with a UGF and it took quite a while to cycle - eventually the LFS squeezed the contents of one of his filters into a bag for me and I finally got the bugger cycled. |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
"Frederick B. Henry Jr." wrote in message ... -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 Thanks. I definitely will take a sample to the LFS. The dip stick tests I bought mainly because I wanted GH and KH readings (which the AP master kit lacks). But I find the colors far more difficult to interpret than the AP liquid tests. I know I have very hard water (lake Michigan water) and good buffering. pH stays around 7.5/6 Gee, maybe I should be keeping smelts or lake trout ;) ======================= Or African cichlids. ;-) -- Koi-Lo.... Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Aquarium FAQ are at: http://faq.thekrib.com/ ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 On 2006-05-09, ClownPleco wrote: I live in Madison, WI and can sympathize with your rock hard water. A 10 gal tank is pretty small for most African cichlids, but they thrive in my 54 gal corner tank. You might post a few questions to: http://www.cichlidforum.com/ asking what species would work for a 10 gal tank. What type of filtration are you using? The benefical bacteria will grow in your gravel and on your ornaments, but they will be abundant in a good sponge filter or bio wheel. I had a 2 gal tank with a UGF and it took quite a while to cycle - eventually the LFS squeezed the contents of one of his filters into a bag for me and I finally got the bugger cycled. A Whisper Bio-Filter. The readings today we ammonia between 1 - 2 ppm, nitrite approaching 0.5 ppm and nitrate approaching 10 ppm. So the nitrite and nitrate do seem to be climbing whereas the ammonia is definitely not spiking. Just seems to be taking an awful long time. I fed the fish and then did a 25% water change. Cheers, Fred -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.3 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEYNCDJXD4LJUXJmMRAigqAJ9nEYWRwI6q4MC/xEb6whEEG9cl2wCfXDnB MomfmRfKCxgJ4/vvtUAQ2Zk= =iY1Z -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- -- "Never put off till tomorrow what you can do the day after." --Alphonse Allais |
Still struggling to get tank cycled after more than two months
Fred wrote,
Just seems to be taking an awful long time... I fed the fish and then did a 25% water change... Sounds like what is called 'a never ending cycle'. Happens (sometimes) with a fishless cycle when ammonia is added everyday (feeding the filter). Stop adding ammonia every day (stop feeding the fish). Your nitrites should drop to 0 and end the cycle within a week to 10 days.............. Frank |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:47 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
FishKeepingBanter.com