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Neon Tetra problems already
The 8 Neon tetras will not eat what I offer them. The platys and gouramies
and one cory are eating everything. The Neon's just take the food in and spit it back out. One cory just hides by a rock. I've tried 5 different foods and the Neon's wont eat any of them. Suggestions anyone? -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 9, 10:21 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
The 8 Neon tetras will not eat what I offer them. The platys and gouramies and one cory are eating everything. The Neon's just take the food in and spit it back out. One cory just hides by a rock. I've tried 5 different foods and the Neon's wont eat any of them. Suggestions anyone? -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages:http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö I feed mine Tetra Crisps.Crumble them up to make them suitable in size and they scarf them up. I also feed Hikari Tropical Micro Wafers, which looks and is about the size of a piece of ground pepper. Mine also takes newly hatched brine shrimp, as well as frozen mysid.but I do not feed them that stuff as a main staple food, only as a treat on occasion. |
Neon Tetra problems already
"St. Clair" wrote in message ... What have you tried so far? Frozen bloodworms seem to always work for me. =============================== I tried the freeze dried HBH Soft & Moist food, Tetra tropical flakes, HBH Super Soft (with krill), AquaSelect Pacific Plankton and Aqua Betta (tiny pellets). One of the corys already died. Although it ate, all it did otherwise was swim frantically from one end of the tank to the other. The second cory is still hiding under the plants. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message ups.com... I feed mine Tetra Crisps.Crumble them up to make them suitable in size and they scarf them up. I also feed Hikari Tropical Micro Wafers, which looks and is about the size of a piece of ground pepper. Mine also takes newly hatched brine shrimp, as well as frozen mysid.but I do not feed them that stuff as a main staple food, only as a treat on occasion. ======================== Hi! I just tried crumbled "Crisps" and they spit them out also. I checked the PH and it's 7.2. The cory that was eating but swimming frantically from end to end of the tank died during the night. The other hasn't moved from under the tangle of anubia. The Neon's rejected 5 different foods now. How many days did yours not eat before accepting one of the foods you offered? -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 10, 10:55 am, "St. Clair"
wrote: how's your other stats ammonia: nitrite: nitrate: gh/kh: temp: i'd still recommend frozen bloodworms, not frieze dried. "Reel McKoi" wrote in message ... "Tristie" wrote in message oups.com... I feed mine Tetra Crisps.Crumble them up to make them suitable in size and they scarf them up. I also feed Hikari Tropical Micro Wafers, which looks and is about the size of a piece of ground pepper. Mine also takes newly hatched brine shrimp, as well as frozen mysid.but I do not feed them that stuff as a main staple food, only as a treat on occasion. ======================== Hi! I just tried crumbled "Crisps" and they spit them out also. I checked the PH and it's 7.2. The cory that was eating but swimming frantically from end to end of the tank died during the night. The other hasn't moved from under the tangle of anubia. The Neon's rejected 5 different foods now. How many days did yours not eat before accepting one of the foods you offered? -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I personally prefer top feed frozen over freeze dried........That is probably just me though as lots of folks use freeze dried. When I put fish inthe tanks they often times go and hide for a time, but within a few hours a day or so most they are right there with the rest eating and doing the fish thing. I just never found any of my neons or corys to be fussy eaters......especially the corys, they just always seem to hit the water and go to forageing for foods right off. Sure is strange with the albino corys as they are pretty well trouble free and easy keepers. |
Neon Tetra problems already
"St. Clair" wrote in message ... how's your other stats ammonia: nitrite: nitrate: gh/kh: temp: i'd still recommend frozen bloodworms, not frieze dried. =================== From the 55g tank: Ammonia - 0 Nirite - 0 Nitrate - 80 Total Hardness - 150 KH (alk) - 40ppm I'm getting different readings on PH: One kit says 7.2 - 7.4 The other kit says 6.2 (this makes no sense) From the faucet: Nitrate and Nitrite - 0 Total Hardbess - 150 KH (alk) - 300ppm PH - one kit - 7.6 PH - second kit - 7.6 (from the faucet they agreed) I went back to the store today with the dead cory to get credit. I was told they're having a problem with their system and the last shipment of fish. They came in extremely stressed. They believe it was heat-stress. I was given credit for another cory when the new shipment comes in - or whenever I feel they look good enough for a replacement. I don't want to spoil any fish with only frozen foods 'only' for obvious reasons. They're not always available in the stores here. I will try some frozen goodies I have for the fish that I use as a once a week treat. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message oups.com... I personally prefer top feed frozen over freeze dried........That is probably just me though as lots of folks use freeze dried. When I put fish inthe tanks they often times go and hide for a time, but within a few hours a day or so most they are right there with the rest eating and doing the fish thing. I just never found any of my neons or corys to be fussy eaters......especially the corys, they just always seem to hit the water and go to forageing for foods right off. Sure is strange with the albino corys as they are pretty well trouble free and easy keepers. ==================== Well there is definitely some problem with that shipment they got in as all the glass shrimp and feeder GF died. They had many other losses as well. I think these fish were indeed stressed somewhere along the line.... then I came along and they had to endure yet another change. One of the difficulties they're having is high PH... up to 8.2. They were starting to work on the system as I left. I offered them frozen (thawed) brine shrimp but they spit that out also. The platys and pearl groumies ate the shrimp just fine. It seems they want to eat, they show an interest in the food, but wont eat what's available. I'll wait until they get another shipment and see what comes in........ meanwhile I'm not going to add anymore fish to the tank. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Reel McKoi" wrote in
: Nitrate - 80 Dirty, dirty water! Although some fish can stand even 100 ppm nitrate, anything over 50 is bad and it is best not to let it get higher than 20 ppm (or 20 mg per liter, that's nearly the same). Is this a small tank? How many liters/gallons? Water changing routine? How many fish you have there and what species? Liisa |
Neon Tetra problems already
"St. Clair" wrote in message ... They only thing I notice is the NO3 reading is a bit high. It's been my experience usually anything above 20ppm causes issues, especially with smaller fish such as neons. In the lab, it usually causes organ failure. =================== It was a bit high. I added some hornwart to soak up the nitrates since I just did a 90% water change a week before I added the fish. I doubt they'd get organ failure in a day or two?!?!?! Today about 1/2 of them are taking some flakes. No Neon's have died. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Liisa Sarakontu" wrote in message 6... "Reel McKoi" wrote in : Nitrate - 80 Dirty, dirty water! Although some fish can stand even 100 ppm nitrate, anything over 50 is bad and it is best not to let it get higher than 20 ppm (or 20 mg per liter, that's nearly the same). Dirty water? The tank got a 90% water change shortly before I added the fish. The gravel bed was vacuumed and the Diatom run to remove fine particles. I can't stop feeding them, or stop them from passing waste nor can I do daily water changes. There were several ottos, 2 clown plecos and a reg pleco in the tank. Do you have a flow through system to keep nitrates below 20mg per liter? Is this a small tank? How many liters/gallons? Water changing routine? How many fish you have there and what species? The tank is a 55g set up for several years and contains live plants. Water changes are every 2 weeks. See above. I recently added 8 Neons, 2 small pearl graumies, 5 platys and the two corys (one died). -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
Check your tap water for nitrate levels - you may be adding nearly as much
as you are taking out! "St. Clair" wrote in message ... I would do a 50% water change weekly, see how that treats your nitrates. If you're doing it every two weeks and still getting 80 ppm, it's not enough and your fish will suffer long term effects. Unfortunately, the only real effective way of controlling nitrates is still through water changes. Plants help a little, yes, but only a little. Ion-exchange resigns help a little as well, but produce calcium and other minerals which harden your water which in your case you don't need. What water conditioner are you using? I would use Seachem's Prime as it not only eliminates chlorine but also detoxifies ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Plus, because it's concentrated, you save around 20 bucks compared to every other brand. (a capful treats 50 gallons versus others which are a capful treats 10 gallons). "Reel McKoi" wrote in message ... "Liisa Sarakontu" wrote in message 6... "Reel McKoi" wrote in : Nitrate - 80 Dirty, dirty water! Although some fish can stand even 100 ppm nitrate, anything over 50 is bad and it is best not to let it get higher than 20 ppm (or 20 mg per liter, that's nearly the same). Dirty water? The tank got a 90% water change shortly before I added the fish. The gravel bed was vacuumed and the Diatom run to remove fine particles. I can't stop feeding them, or stop them from passing waste nor can I do daily water changes. There were several ottos, 2 clown plecos and a reg pleco in the tank. Do you have a flow through system to keep nitrates below 20mg per liter? Is this a small tank? How many liters/gallons? Water changing routine? How many fish you have there and what species? The tank is a 55g set up for several years and contains live plants. Water changes are every 2 weeks. See above. I recently added 8 Neons, 2 small pearl graumies, 5 platys and the two corys (one died). -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"St. Clair" wrote in message ... No, they wouldn't get organ failure in a day or two, but the *first* symptom would be not eating. Even though hornwort will soak up nitrates, it won't at the speed you need. I would do another 50% change now and test again. Then do 50% water changes every 3rd day until you can get your nitrates at 20 or under. How many fish do you have in the 55? How often do you do water changes? ================================= There are 3 plecos, 2 are small clowns. There are 3 ottos. All these are small fish but the one plco which is about 4". Then I added 5 platys, 2 small pearl groumies, two small corycats and 8 neon's. They've only been in there something like a week. The tank is well established, contains live plants, is 79/80F and before getting the new fish I vacuumed the entire gravel bed, did a 90% water change and ran the Diatom filter for several hours to remove all fines. There is no way to do water changes without stressing these fish even more than they've endured in the past 2 weeks. They're having trouble with this shipment at the store and losing a lot of fish. I would not have bought them had I known this. The manager believes it was heat-stress, then to add more stress they're system kept going up to PH 8.2 and more, even with water changes and PH down. I'll be avoiding this store for awhile. I liked buying there as in the 2 years they've been in business I never once got a sick or diseased fish. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"St. Clair" wrote in message ... I would do a 50% water change weekly, see how that treats your nitrates. If you're doing it every two weeks and still getting 80 ppm, it's not enough and your fish will suffer long term effects. Unfortunately, the only real effective way of controlling nitrates is still through water changes. Plants help a little, yes, but only a little. Ion-exchange resigns help a little as well, but produce calcium and other minerals which harden your water which in your case you don't need. What water conditioner are you using? All I use is Sodium Thiosulfate which I buy as crystals by the tub, then mix my own as I've been doing for years. I don't use conditioners. I would use Seachem's Prime as it not only eliminates chlorine but also detoxifies ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Plus, because it's concentrated, you save around 20 bucks compared to every other brand. (a capful treats 50 gallons versus others which are a capful treats 10 gallons). -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"RichardB" wrote in message ... Check your tap water for nitrate levels - you may be adding nearly as much as you are taking out! ===================== I got a reading of zero from the faucet. But other times I got readings as high as 30. It varies and the test kits are so expensive these days I don't constantly test anymore. I hear more and more grumbles how this is becoming a hobby for the wealthy, not the average Jane and Joe like it once was. I've already been told on one of these groups that these kits you get in the petshops aren't accurate and to buy some other kit.... which was over $100 as I recall. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"St. Clair" wrote in message ... Well, using Prime would help your fish (it detoxifoes nitrates) since you don't want to do water changes. You do want to help them, don't you? ============================= Are you guaranteeing somehow the nitrates are the problem and the manager at the pet shop just made up the stress, PH8+ story? -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Reel McKoi" wrote in
: Do you have a flow through system to keep nitrates below 20mg per liter? Nope. Just 30 % or so weekly changes with clean (no nitrates or other nitrogen stuff) tapwater, quite a lot of living plants and most important: not too many fish and no overfeeding. The tank is a 55g ... I recently added 8 Neons, 2 small pearl graumies, 5 platys and the two corys (one died). There were several ottos, 2 clown plecos and a reg pleco in the tank. Anything called "regular pleco" is far too big for a 55g. Well, sometimes bristlenose plecos (Ancistrus) are sold as "common plecos", and they are ok in such tanks, but most often the "common plecos" are sailfin plecos (Pterygoplichthys or whatever their current genus name is) or Liposarcus plecos (again, the genus name has probably changed recently). They get half a meter long (over 1 foot) and they need HUGE tanks to be able to live happily. Other than that one fish, the tank doesn't sound overcrowded although it is a bad idea to add new fish to a tank with high nitrate level, and it is also a bad idea to add lots of new fish at the same time as the bacteria doesn't multiply that quickly and you can kill your fish with ammonia or nitrite even if the tank is old (like yours is). Cory cats are schooling fish, and it is not right to keep them in groups less than 5 individuals of same species. Do a 50 % water change (not 90 %, it is not a good idea to change water quality too much too quickly) and test nitrate immediately after that. Wait for 5 days or so and feed the tank normally and test nitrate again. If it had gone up again, you have clearly too many fish and/or feed far too much. In that latter case it would be good to test for nitrite too, just in case. And test with a drop test, if possible, not with paper slips as they are not that accurate. Liisa |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 12, 7:05 am, Tynk wrote:
On Sep 11, 4:41?pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote: "RichardB" wrote in message ... Check your tap water for nitrate levels - you may be adding nearly as much as you are taking out! ===================== I got a reading of zero from the faucet. ?But other times I got readings as high as 30. RM.... Being that this was an older tank, it's very possible it was going (or is) going through "old tank" syndrome. Even with your 90% water change before adding several new fish, it would have taken several more changes to do the job. If you don't want to stress the new fish any more than they already have been, you could consider doing more frequent, smaller water changes. You could daily small changes and stress them less than a large, once a week water change. I wouldn't do the *once every 2 weeks* on water changes with this tank. After you get the nitrates back down and the nitrifying bacteria have increased their numbers to handle the bio load of all the new arrivals, and the tank is back to being peachy, you could go back to your normal 2 week schedule. However, you might also want to stick with the smaller, weekly changes. As Tynk stated, your tank is most likely going through old tank syndrome. Besides the use of Prime which I also recommend, here are a few other suggestions for lowering your nitrates: *Perform a water change using a gravel vacuum to remove not just dirty water, but "mulm" that will decompose and enter the nitrogen cycle and eventually become nitrates. This can be a particular problem with Under Gravel Filters (UGF), decomposing organic debris will tend to build up under the filter plate. For these filters I recommend occasionally removing the lift tubes and placing a siphon into the opening and removing as much organic debris (mulm) as possible. Even without UGF, poor vacuuming procedures (or none at all) can contribute to high to high nitrates. Make sure and vacuum around and under ornaments as well, although be careful around live plants. *Proper filtration and maintenance; Make sure and regularly rinse in de-chlorinated or used aquarium water (never tap water) your bio filter media. This includes bio rings and balls commonly found in wet dry filters and canister filters, sponge filters, bio wheels, or any other media that is not changed in the filter. This is especially important with filters that tend to become "nitrate factories", which include in my experience (AND tests) to be; Canister Filters, Wet-Dry filters, and Emperor Filters. This is not to say these filters are bad, it is just important to not ignore properly cleaning these filters even though their large capacity makes it very easy to do. For more about this subject, please see this article: http://www.americanaquariumproducts....gen_Cycle.html You may have also a disease or virus present in your aquarium, so please watch for symptoms. One possible disease that shows little symptom is Ichthyophonus which is a fungus (not to be confused with ich). For mo http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com...s-in-fish.html You might consider SeaChem's Purigen as well. Although I do disagree with the statement about added hardness (or GH), studies have shown that hardness (not KH) controls pH spikes during hours of peak photosynthesis even when KH is adequate. Calcium is also important for proper osmoregulation as well. See these articles: http://www.americanaquariumproducts....iumPlants.html There is a graph here; http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/ClearPond.html Carl |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tynk" wrote in message ups.com... On Sep 11, 4:41�pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote: "RichardB" wrote in message ... Check your tap water for nitrate levels - you may be adding nearly as much as you are taking out! ===================== I got a reading of zero from the faucet. But other times I got readings as high as 30. RM.... Being that this was an older tank, it's very possible it was going (or is) going through "old tank" syndrome. Even with your 90% water change before adding several new fish, it would have taken several more changes to do the job. If you don't want to stress the new fish any more than they already have been, you could consider doing more frequent, smaller water changes. - - It's not the size of the water change, it's the removing the fluorescent lights (2 2-bulb fixtures), shutting off the filter and then adding water etc. I usually try to avoid stressing any new fish for at least a week. They're doing much better this morning. I think I'll give them until Friday, then start with 25% water changes every other day until the nitrates are below 20. I also added hornwart, a known nitrate hog and some elodia.... another nitrate lover. The outside 150g pools are just about always near zero with these plants doing their job. :-) You could daily small changes and stress them less than a large, once a week water change. I wouldn't do the *once every 2 weeks* on water changes with this tank. After you get the nitrates back down and the nitrifying bacteria have increased their numbers to handle the bio load of all the new arrivals, and the tank is back to being peachy, you could go back to your normal 2 week schedule. However, you might also want to stick with the smaller, weekly changes. -- I might do that since I only have the two tanks in the house now. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"carlrs" wrote in message oups.com... (Brevity snips) As Tynk stated, your tank is most likely going through old tank syndrome. This could very well be. I can't really know, but before I added any new fish the tank (and filter) were thoroughly cleaned, the gravel vacuumed until the water was darn near clear as the tank water. The glass was cleaned - and then it was refilled, dechlorinator added at time of filling. Then to make extra sure the water was as clean as possibly without breaking down the tank I ran the Diatom filter for a few hours, stirring the gravel over and over while it was running. There is no UGF in any of my tanks. I will definately check out the sites below. Thanks. ;-) All my filters are Aquaclears. For more about this subject, please see this article: http://www.americanaquariumproducts....gen_Cycle.html You may have also a disease or virus present in your aquarium, so please watch for symptoms. One possible disease that shows little symptom is Ichthyophonus which is a fungus (not to be confused with ich). For mo http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com...s-in-fish.html You might consider SeaChem's Purigen as well. Although I do disagree with the statement about added hardness (or GH), studies have shown that hardness (not KH) controls pH spikes during hours of peak photosynthesis even when KH is adequate. Calcium is also important for proper osmoregulation as well. See these articles: http://www.americanaquariumproducts....iumPlants.html There is a graph here; http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/ClearPond.html Carl -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Liisa Sarakontu" wrote in message 6... "Reel McKoi" wrote in : Do you have a flow through system to keep nitrates below 20mg per liter? Nope. Just 30 % or so weekly changes with clean (no nitrates or other nitrogen stuff) tapwater, quite a lot of living plants and most important: not too many fish and no overfeeding. The tank is a 55g ... I recently added 8 Neons, 2 small pearl graumies, 5 platys and the two corys (one died). There were several ottos, 2 clown plecos and a reg pleco in the tank. Anything called "regular pleco" is far too big for a 55g. I know this and when he gets another inch longer he'll have to go back to the pet shop like the other one did. Right now he's not that large. Other than that one fish, the tank doesn't sound overcrowded although it is a bad idea to add new fish to a tank with high nitrate level, and it is also a bad idea to add lots of new fish at the same time as the bacteria doesn't multiply that quickly and you can kill your fish with ammonia or nitrite even if the tank is old (like yours is). This is well known and good advice. The ammonia is at zero this morning. I didn't check the other parameters. Cory cats are schooling fish, and it is not right to keep them in groups less than 5 individuals of same species. I was starting with two because funds are limited. I'm retired with no income at all and my husband is semi-retired. Do a 50 % water change (not 90 %, it is not a good idea to change water quality too much too quickly) and test nitrate immediately after that. Wait for 5 days or so and feed the tank normally and test nitrate again. If it had gone up again, you have clearly too many fish and/or feed far too much. In that latter case it would be good to test for nitrite too, just in case. And test with a drop test, if possible, not with paper slips as they are not that accurate. The last test kit using drops was over $20. I'll see what the other store has........ -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 12, 12:11 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Liisa Sarakontu" wrote in message 6... "Reel McKoi" wrote in : Do you have a flow through system to keep nitrates below 20mg per liter? Nope. Just 30 % or so weekly changes with clean (no nitrates or other nitrogen stuff) tapwater, quite a lot of living plants and most important: not too many fish and no overfeeding. The tank is a 55g ... I recently added 8 Neons, 2 small pearl graumies, 5 platys and the two corys (one died). There were several ottos, 2 clown plecos and a reg pleco in the tank. Anything called "regular pleco" is far too big for a 55g. I know this and when he gets another inch longer he'll have to go back to the pet shop like the other one did. Right now he's not that large. Other than that one fish, the tank doesn't sound overcrowded although it is a bad idea to add new fish to a tank with high nitrate level, and it is also a bad idea to add lots of new fish at the same time as the bacteria doesn't multiply that quickly and you can kill your fish with ammonia or nitrite even if the tank is old (like yours is). This is well known and good advice. The ammonia is at zero this morning. I didn't check the other parameters. Cory cats are schooling fish, and it is not right to keep them in groups less than 5 individuals of same species. I was starting with two because funds are limited. I'm retired with no income at all and my husband is semi-retired. Do a 50 % water change (not 90 %, it is not a good idea to change water quality too much too quickly) and test nitrate immediately after that. Wait for 5 days or so and feed the tank normally and test nitrate again. If it had gone up again, you have clearly too many fish and/or feed far too much. In that latter case it would be good to test for nitrite too, just in case. And test with a drop test, if possible, not with paper slips as they are not that accurate. The last test kit using drops was over $20. I'll see what the other store has........ -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages:http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö RM If you decide to buy new or replacement test kits go with Seatest or Fastest brand kits;........they atre put out by AP or Somehting like that , who is a major player in aquatic products. They are about the best without gong to a commerical grade kit which can cost big bucks. For the most part most any kit is well within the pqarameters it is spec'd at for fish keeping purposes, however the Fastetst and Seatest kits initially cost a couple of bucks more, but the good thing is they are all drop or powder type kits, and once you have the initial kit you can buy refills for the kits and the price is like 60%..Overall the initial kit is not any more costly than any other commonly available kit, so you really save once you start with the refills. |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message ups.com... RM If you decide to buy new or replacement test kits go with Seatest or Fastest brand kits;........they atre put out by AP or Somehting like that , who is a major player in aquatic products. They are about the best without gong to a commerical grade kit which can cost big bucks. For the most part most any kit is well within the pqarameters it is spec'd at for fish keeping purposes, however the Fastetst and Seatest kits initially cost a couple of bucks more, but the good thing is they are all drop or powder type kits, and once you have the initial kit you can buy refills for the kits and the price is like 60%..Overall the initial kit is not any more costly than any other commonly available kit, so you really save once you start with the refills. ================ I'll take a look at them. I just recieved a new catalog today. Foster & Smith. They're having their Red Tag sale.... :-) -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tynk" wrote in message oups.com... Don't forget about checking *BigAlsonline.com*. On some things I have ordered in the past, they were the cheapest of several well known sites. So it's always worth a glance to check their site as well. ===================== I checked them out. They do have the cheapest prices! Unreal.... I bookmarked them as they'll be seeing some of my business. :-) -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tynk" wrote in message oups.com... I'm so glad I mentioned them. Now you can spend what ya save on more fish, hehe. = )~ ============================== Yeparoo! Pet Supermarket just got a new shipment of fish in today. They were unpacking them when I called. I don't go the first day because the poor little guys have got to be really stressed out. I'll go tomorrow and spend some $$$$. :-))) They're replacing the cory, plus I'm buying one or two more. I hope they got in more pearls so I can get a nice male for the 2 girls. Then I'll go from there..... I have to get off here and do the 1st water change on the 55g as the neon's are now eating fine. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 14, 3:43 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Tynk" wrote in message oups.com... I'm so glad I mentioned them. Now you can spend what ya save on more fish, hehe. = )~ ============================== Yeparoo! Pet Supermarket just got a new shipment of fish in today. They were unpacking them when I called. I don't go the first day because the poor little guys have got to be really stressed out. I'll go tomorrow and spend some $$$$. :-))) They're replacing the cory, plus I'm buying one or two more. I hope they got in more pearls so I can get a nice male for the 2 girls. Then I'll go from there..... I have to get off here and do the 1st water change on the 55g as the neon's are now eating fine. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages:http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö Interesting. The act of buying fish the day they arrive is a mixed lot. I personally prefer to buy fish as soon as they arrive, if they will dump out all fish except what I want and let my chosen fish stay in the same bag in the shipped water. Hard to do with most FW fish as they usually have a heap of them in the same bag, but with salt they often more thannot pack one or two to a bag, so its not a problem there. I have them add a shot of amquel to neutralize any ammonia that rises once the bag is opened, and carry them home. IO prefer to keep my fish out of most LFS water if I can help it. My frieind who is a manager at Petco will order me fish and when the fish gets ordered make a request for "x" number or such and such to be packed individually....... When fish arrive I am normaly there before the truck delivers, so I just get my bagged fish and pay and leave......... Lots of folks only temp acclimate, I acclimate with water form tank as well as temp, by use of a IV drip set over a period of 45 minutes to one hour. I use bottom halfs of plastic juice containers to place fish with bagged water in, and slowly dirp water form tank into the juice container. Once its up a bit, I syphon a good portion of it out, leaving just enough water to keep fish happy...........and repeat as often as needed until a period of 45 minutes to an hour is up, net the fish and place in the QT tank......Glad you got a replacement, or will be getting a replacement. Good to hear the neons are eating as well,. |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message oups.com... Interesting. The act of buying fish the day they arrive is a mixed lot. I personally prefer to buy fish as soon as they arrive, if they will dump out all fish except what I want and let my chosen fish stay in the same bag in the shipped water. Hard to do with most FW fish as they usually have a heap of them in the same bag, but with salt they often more thannot pack one or two to a bag, so its not a problem there. - The bags are loaded with fish so I can't do that. It would be nice if they shipped 2 to 4 in a bag. I'd take the whole bag before they're exposed to the shop water. I have them add a shot of amquel to neutralize any ammonia that rises once the bag is opened, and carry them home. IO prefer to keep my fish out of most LFS water if I can help it. My frieind who is a manager at Petco will order me fish and when the fish gets ordered make a request for "x" number or such and such to be packed individually....... When fish arrive I am normaly there before the truck delivers, so I just get my bagged fish and pay and leave......... - That's a good way to do it if you can. I try and get there the next morning. By then those that came in in bad shape are already gone (dead and removed) and the others more or less acclimated to the water in the store. Lots of folks only temp acclimate, I acclimate with water form tank as well as temp, by use of a IV drip set over a period of 45 minutes to one hour. I use bottom halfs of plastic juice containers to place fish with bagged water in, and slowly dirp water form tank into the juice container. Once its up a bit, I syphon a good portion of it out, leaving just enough water to keep fish happy...........and repeat as often as needed until a period of 45 minutes to an hour is up, net the fish and place in the QT tank. - I use a 1g container. I keep adding a little water at a time over several hours. When it's about 3/4s tank water I put them in the tank. ......Glad you got a replacement, or will be getting a replacement. Good to hear the neons are eating as well,. - So far so good but one neon vanished?!?!?!? Gone. I looked all over and couldn't find a body anywhere, even on the floor. If it died the pleco must have completely ate it. I removed the pleco to take back to the pet store tomorrow. He's gotten too big (4 to 5") and there are already algae eaters in the 55g. I did a 40% water change, checked the Nitrate and it's still at 80. I vacuumed the gravel again also. Then I set up another quarantine tank because I had to put my celestial eye GF in the quarantine tank. She can't live outside because she's almost blind and can't compete for food. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 14, 8:42 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Tristie" wrote in message oups.com... Interesting. The act of buying fish the day they arrive is a mixed lot. I personally prefer to buy fish as soon as they arrive, if they will dump out all fish except what I want and let my chosen fish stay in the same bag in the shipped water. Hard to do with most FW fish as they usually have a heap of them in the same bag, but with salt they often more thannot pack one or two to a bag, so its not a problem there. - The bags are loaded with fish so I can't do that. It would be nice if they shipped 2 to 4 in a bag. I'd take the whole bag before they're exposed to the shop water. I have them add a shot of amquel to neutralize any ammonia that rises once the bag is opened, and carry them home. IO prefer to keep my fish out of most LFS water if I can help it. My frieind who is a manager at Petco will order me fish and when the fish gets ordered make a request for "x" number or such and such to be packed individually....... When fish arrive I am normaly there before the truck delivers, so I just get my bagged fish and pay and leave......... - That's a good way to do it if you can. I try and get there the next morning. By then those that came in in bad shape are already gone (dead and removed) and the others more or less acclimated to the water in the store. Lots of folks only temp acclimate, I acclimate with water form tank as well as temp, by use of a IV drip set over a period of 45 minutes to one hour. I use bottom halfs of plastic juice containers to place fish with bagged water in, and slowly dirp water form tank into the juice container. Once its up a bit, I syphon a good portion of it out, leaving just enough water to keep fish happy...........and repeat as often as needed until a period of 45 minutes to an hour is up, net the fish and place in the QT tank. - I use a 1g container. I keep adding a little water at a time over several hours. When it's about 3/4s tank water I put them in the tank. .....Glad you got a replacement, or will be getting a replacement. Good to hear the neons are eating as well,. - So far so good but one neon vanished?!?!?!? Gone. I looked all over and couldn't find a body anywhere, even on the floor. If it died the pleco must have completely ate it. I removed the pleco to take back to the pet store tomorrow. He's gotten too big (4 to 5") and there are already algae eaters in the 55g. I did a 40% water change, checked the Nitrate and it's still at 80. I vacuumed the gravel again also. Then I set up another quarantine tank because I had to put my celestial eye GF in the quarantine tank. She can't live outside because she's almost blind and can't compete for food. -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages:http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö Hmmmmmmmmmm, you rasie still yet another interesting and often debated acclimation process. Its also a hotly debated item as to weather or not you can actually overdo acclimation, and further stress out a fish. The majority seem to say it is, and depending on the fish or item, usually a time limit of 45 minutes to an hour is sufficieint. I speak mainly from saal****er enthusiasts, but I am sure things are the same pretty well in FW too, plus it seems SW folks tend to go a lot overboard since SW fish seem to go through a lot more stressfull methods of capture, plus they usually cost a heap more than FW fish do.......and they most always ensure more paramters are met than fookls with FW fish do. I guess its allmy ywears with SW fish that has me doing it the same for all FW like I do SW fish. One easy way is put fish into container, out of bag. Take a contianer of water equal to what is in the container the fish is in. Add one third of that container of water to the container the fish is in, and wait 5 minutes. Then add another 1/3 of that container of water to the fish container.wait again 5 minutes..........and then add remaining water to container with fish........wait 5 minutes.total elapsed time is now 15 minutes since start of acclimation. Now pouor off 1/2 of that fishes container of water, and once again fill up a container with the same amount of water as in the fish container and repeat process of every 5 minutes times 3...............and after that do it one more time. Overall time will be 45 minutes..and fish shuold now be able to be netted and placed into the tank. I usually set an IV drip tube and let it drip into container until the amount inthe container doubles in about 20 to 30 minutes time, empty out half and repeat again, and then do it a third, then net fish and place in the appropriate tank. You can buy IV drip sets (no needles incuded) for under $6 at medical supply places without a perscriiption, or I get them from a nurse friend for free.......a suitable like item is easy and cheap to make with a piece of the hard ridgid aiir line tube and a length of airline tube. Use piece of ridgid tube and place in hot water to allow easy kink free forming, and shape into a cane shape so it will hang over tanks edge and extend intothe water approx 4 to 6 inches, and also a few inches on the outside of the tank. Slip on a length of airline, of approx 4 to 6 inches, and install a typical airline valve. The brass or metal ones work best but most any will do. Then stick on another length of airline that enables you to place a container for acclimating in on a nearby stand or table etc, or what ever is convienient. Now just start a syphon in the airline and adjust with the air valve to get a couple of drips per minute flow. You can also tie a single overhand knot in the airline and not use a valve and either tighten uip or loosen the knot to adjust flow, but a valve is so much easier to adjust. Now you have an acclimation tool that does not require any attention for the entire process if a large enough container is used to place fish in. I set a timer to remind me I have fish acclimating as I have been known to get side tracked. Does your LFS check for nitrate intheir water checks? If so I would carry a sample in and bump their readings against yours. Sometimes those kits even the drop or powder type do go crazy if they get hot or near or over shelf life. I simply do not trust strip types. |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message oups.com... Hmmmmmmmmmm, you rasie still yet another interesting and often debated acclimation process. Its also a hotly debated item as to weather or not you can actually overdo acclimation, and further stress out a fish. The majority seem to say it is, and depending on the fish or item, usually a time limit of 45 minutes to an hour is sufficieint. - - True, but sometimes there's such a difference in PH and/or hardness or TDS it takes longer. I've found, through sad experience, that fancy GF need a slow acclamation. This is why I no longer buy from Petco in the city. Our water is so different that the fish suffer stress just being acclimated. If they're not acclimated s-l-o-w-l-y they're gasping at the surface, and dead in 24 to 48 hours. :( One easy way is put fish into container, out of bag. Take a contianer of water equal to what is in the container the fish is in. Add one third of that container of water to the container the fish is in, and wait 5 minutes. Then add another 1/3 of that container of water to the fish container.wait again 5 minutes..........and then add remaining water to container with fish........wait 5 minutes.total elapsed time is now 15 minutes since start of acclimation. Now pouor off 1/2 of that fishes container of water, and once again fill up a container with the same amount of water as in the fish container and repeat process of every 5 minutes times 3...............and after that do it one more time. Overall time will be 45 minutes..and fish shuold now be able to be netted and placed into the tank. - - I know almost nothing about SW fish so wont comment on them. If the water parameters aren't vastly different (FW) this will defiantly work. :-) I always cover the non-translucent container to give them more of a feeling of security. And airstone aerates them. I usually set an IV drip tube and let it drip into container until the amount inthe container doubles in about 20 to 30 minutes time, empty out half and repeat again, and then do it a third, then net fish and place in the appropriate tank. - - That's a great idea if you can latch onto an IV drip. You can buy IV drip sets (no needles incuded) for under $6 at medical supply places without a perscriiption, or I get them from a nurse friend for free.......a suitable like item is easy and cheap to make with a piece of the hard ridgid aiir line tube and a length of airline tube. Use piece of ridgid tube and place in hot water to allow easy kink free forming, and shape into a cane shape so it will hang over tanks edge and extend intothe water approx 4 to 6 inches, and also a few inches on the outside of the tank. Slip on a length of airline, of approx 4 to 6 inches, and install a typical airline valve. The brass or metal ones work best but most any will do. Then stick on another length of airline that enables you to place a container for acclimating in on a nearby stand or table etc, or what ever is convienient. Now just start a syphon in the airline and adjust with the air valve to get a couple of drips per minute flow. You can also tie a single overhand knot in the airline and not use a valve and either tighten uip or loosen the knot to adjust flow, but a valve is so much easier to adjust. Now you have an acclimation tool that does not require any attention for the entire process if a large enough container is used to place fish in. I set a timer to remind me I have fish acclimating as I have been known to get side tracked. - - What a geat idea!!!!!!!!! :-) I love it. I tried bending rigid tubing one time after heating in hot water but it would kink. It refused to make a nice U curve. Darn..... I can't remember what I was bending it for. Does your LFS check for nitrate intheir water checks? If so I would carry a sample in and bump their readings against yours. Sometimes those kits even the drop or powder type do go crazy if they get hot or near or over shelf life. I simply do not trust strip types. - - I tested the water coming out of the faucet and it's zero on nitrates. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 15, 7:24 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Tristie" wrote in message oups.com... Hmmmmmmmmmm, you rasie still yet another interesting and often debated acclimation process. Its also a hotly debated item as to weather or not you can actually overdo acclimation, and further stress out a fish. The majority seem to say it is, and depending on the fish or item, usually a time limit of 45 minutes to an hour is sufficieint. - - True, but sometimes there's such a difference in PH and/or hardness or TDS it takes longer. I've found, through sad experience, that fancy GF need a slow acclamation. This is why I no longer buy from Petco in the city. Our water is so different that the fish suffer stress just being acclimated. If they're not acclimated s-l-o-w-l-y they're gasping at the surface, and dead in 24 to 48 hours. :( One easy way is put fish into container, out of bag. Take a contianer of water equal to what is in the container the fish is in. Add one third of that container of water to the container the fish is in, and wait 5 minutes. Then add another 1/3 of that container of water to the fish container.wait again 5 minutes..........and then add remaining water to container with fish........wait 5 minutes.total elapsed time is now 15 minutes since start of acclimation. Now pouor off 1/2 of that fishes container of water, and once again fill up a container with the same amount of water as in the fish container and repeat process of every 5 minutes times 3...............and after that do it one more time. Overall time will be 45 minutes..and fish shuold now be able to be netted and placed into the tank. - - I know almost nothing about SW fish so wont comment on them. If the water parameters aren't vastly different (FW) this will defiantly work. :-) I always cover the non-translucent container to give them more of a feeling of security. And airstone aerates them. I usually set an IV drip tube and let it drip into container until the amount inthe container doubles in about 20 to 30 minutes time, empty out half and repeat again, and then do it a third, then net fish and place in the appropriate tank. - - That's a great idea if you can latch onto an IV drip. You can buy IV drip sets (no needles incuded) for under $6 at medical supply places without a perscriiption, or I get them from a nurse friend for free.......a suitable like item is easy and cheap to make with a piece of the hard ridgid aiir line tube and a length of airline tube. Use piece of ridgid tube and place in hot water to allow easy kink free forming, and shape into a cane shape so it will hang over tanks edge and extend intothe water approx 4 to 6 inches, and also a few inches on the outside of the tank. Slip on a length of airline, of approx 4 to 6 inches, and install a typical airline valve. The brass or metal ones work best but most any will do. Then stick on another length of airline that enables you to place a container for acclimating in on a nearby stand or table etc, or what ever is convienient. Now just start a syphon in the airline and adjust with the air valve to get a couple of drips per minute flow. You can also tie a single overhand knot in the airline and not use a valve and either tighten uip or loosen the knot to adjust flow, but a valve is so much easier to adjust. Now you have an acclimation tool that does not require any attention for the entire process if a large enough container is used to place fish in. I set a timer to remind me I have fish acclimating as I have been known to get side tracked. - - What a geat idea!!!!!!!!! :-) I love it. I tried bending rigid tubing one time after heating in hot water but it would kink. It refused to make a nice U curve. Darn..... I can't remember what I was bending it for. Does your LFS check for nitrate intheir water checks? If so I would carry a sample in and bump their readings against yours. Sometimes those kits even the drop or powder type do go crazy if they get hot or near or over shelf life. I simply do not trust strip types. - - I tested the water coming out of the faucet and it's zero on nitrates. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages:http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö place end of ridgid airline tube in a pyrex measuring cup of bnoiling hot water for a minute or two, and pull it out and lay over a form such as a tall tapered beer glass or a rolling pin etc. It will just about form itself. A little kink in the bend is not gonna hurt anything, and it does best if yu do not try to bend it into to sharp a radius unless yu havea form made to support the sides of the tube to keep it from kinking. It should easily bend into a 1" radius which gives approx 2" between each leg which is more than sufficient to place over any aquariums top edge. I never aereate any fish in the acclimating container, as they are continually getting an influx of fresh water. I also keep the area shaded or dimly lit as well. No real big difference in SW or FW, other than the water they swim in, the principals are still the same......but SW fish certianly do not like aeration by way of an airstone, thats why yu never really see airstones used in SW setups. Corals etc do not tolerate that type of aeration either, but that is neither here or there with fish and acclimating them., since 99% of the LFS simply do nothing more than temp acclimate bty floating the bag until they get around to dumping them in the tanks......Just as a little bit of info. Shrimp etc are much harder to acclimate, yet with a drip acclimation as such they do very well. When a single cleaner shrimp costs $30 you certainly do not take chances, so drip acclimation works very well. Hmmmmmmmmmm.$30 for a single shrimp.but you can get a ton of shrimp for a [party of 2 at Red Lobster for that amount and have money left! Tell me fish keepers are not quite wrapped tight! ;-) |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message ups.com... place end of ridgid airline tube in a pyrex measuring cup of bnoiling hot water for a minute or two, and pull it out and lay over a form such as a tall tapered beer glass or a rolling pin etc. It will just about form itself. A little kink in the bend is not gonna hurt anything, ........ - - Will try this next time. :-) and it does best if yu do not try to bend it into to sharp a radius unless yu havea form made to support the sides of the tube to keep it from kinking. It should easily bend into a 1" radius which gives approx 2" between each leg which is more than sufficient to place over any aquariums top edge. I never aereate any fish in the acclimating container, as they are continually getting an influx of fresh water. I also keep the area shaded or dimly lit as well. No real big difference in SW or FW, other than the water they swim in, the principals are still the same......but SW fish certianly do not like aeration by way of an airstone, thats why yu never really see airstones used in SW setups. Corals etc do not tolerate that type of aeration either, but that is neither here or there with fish and acclimating them., since 99% of the LFS simply do nothing more than temp acclimate bty floating the bag until they get around to dumping them in the tanks......Just as a little bit of info. Shrimp etc are much harder to acclimate, yet with a drip acclimation as such they do very well. When a single cleaner shrimp costs $30 you certainly do not take chances, so drip acclimation works very well. Hmmmmmmmmmm.$30 for a single shrimp.but you can get a ton of shrimp for a [party of 2 at Red Lobster for that amount and have money left! Tell me fish keepers are not quite wrapped tight! ;-) - - You got that right. We're not only loosely wrapped but our elevators don't reach the top floor, we're two peas short of a casserole, we're not the sharpest knife in the draw.... $30 for one shrimp? Only if I won a lottery or some rich relative leaves me in their will. :-D -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Neon Tetra problems already
On Sep 9, 10:21 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
The 8 Neon tetras will not eat what I offer them. The platys and gouramies and one cory are eating everything. The Neon's just take the food in and spit it back out. One cory just hides by a rock. I've tried 5 different foods and the Neon's wont eat any of them. Suggestions anyone? -- RM.... My Pond & Aquarium Pages:http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö RM........An easy to acquire live food that is often overlooked is mosquito larvae. Neon Tetrae as well as betta and other fish go nuts over them. I forgot all about that when I replied to your question originally. I keep some "strategically" placed shallow containers in areas that skeeters love and collect them for my fish that I keep inside. Once they hit an aquarium there is no fear of them growing into a skeeter. ;-) I harvest mine by dumping the water into a container but use a brine shrimp net to catch the larvae. Thehj place water back in the original container for the next haarvest......The larvae I collect I place in a container along with all the other harvested batches of the day. I then rinse well under fresh water while in the net and feed directly into the tanks......Another good food that is easy to propagate and grow is daphina......I use an old 2.5 gal aquarium to propagate them in......swoosh of a brine shrimp net is all it takes to harvest them for feeding. Its been a few months since I rasied the daph, since most of my fish are outside on vacation yet....and my other foods are fine for those inside along with mosquito larvae. |
Neon Tetra problems already
"Tristie" wrote in message ups.com... RM........An easy to acquire live food that is often overlooked is mosquito larvae. Neon Tetrae as well as betta and other fish go nuts over them. I forgot all about that when I replied to your question originally. I keep some "strategically" placed shallow containers in areas that skeeters love and collect them for my fish that I keep inside. Once they hit an aquarium there is no fear of them growing into a skeeter. ;-) - - Now there's an idea. I can look in all the 30g tubs I grow the pond plants in tomorrow and see what I can find. They did start eating this weekend. I tried "thawed" blood worms and brine-shrimp but their mouths are too small. They didn't have baby brine shrimp. These are young Neon's. I'm offering a variety of foods and they're eating just about everything now. I harvest mine by dumping the water into a container but use a brine shrimp net to catch the larvae. Thehj place water back in the original container for the next haarvest......The larvae I collect I place in a container along with all the other harvested batches of the day. I then rinse well under fresh water while in the net and feed directly into the tanks......Another good food that is easy to propagate and grow is daphina......I use an old 2.5 gal aquarium to propagate them in......swoosh of a brine shrimp net is all it takes to harvest them for feeding. - - Where did you find the daphnia to start your tanks? It doesn't seem to occur naturally here. I only found some one time. It came in with some plants from the river I think. I haven't seen any since. Its been a few months since I rasied the daph, since most of my fish are outside on vacation yet....and my other foods are fine for those inside along with mosquito larvae. - - I'm gonna see what I can find in those tubs tomorrow. The drought here has lasted so long that natural ponds and streams have dried up. You can sit outside and have a few cups of coffee and not one mosquito will show up, and very few moths or other bugs and insects will appear. I don't know if it was those last abnormal killing frosts or the dry dead vegetation but we have a bug and insect shortage this year. We've also noticed there are a lot less frogs around the ponds and tanks. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
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