cleaned tank
 

finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


--
Jim

cleaned tank
 

jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days
ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

cleaned tank
 

A two man operation to remove red algae? What method
are you using?

Wayne Sallee



jthread wrote on 2/18/2008 6:53 PM:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.

cleaned tank
 

Live rock, live sand, and lighted refugium with sand
and macro algae, and if you want,,, live rock rubble.

Wayne Sallee



Peter Pan wrote on 2/18/2008 9:22 PM:
jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days
ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

cleaned tank
 

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
A two man operation to remove red algae? What method are you using?

Wayne Sallee


Just a bucket and a siphon hose. The counter is so high I have my wife
control the flow of the siphon. I could do it by myself but it would take
more water to clean up the tank. Also, because it is a tall tank I rigged up
a handle for the siphon hose to reach the bottom.

The algae growth is slower now that I arranged the fans so they are covering
more of the tank. The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just
too much light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping by just
vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.

cleaned tank
 

"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days
ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15 ppm too
high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm would be pretty
good.

Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you tried
feeding less?

My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false back. The
nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one.

cleaned tank
 

jthread wrote:
"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days
ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15 ppm too
high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm would be pretty
good.

Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you tried
feeding less?

My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false back. The
nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one.


I went from 5 ppm to 15 ppm in roughly 10 days. I've tried less
feedings (every other day) I've also tried more frequent partials and
still the nitrates climb.

cleaned tank
 

Let all of your filtration be done by live rock, and
live sand, and macro algae.

Wayne Sallee



Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 8:54 AM:
jthread wrote:
"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few
days ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15
ppm too high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm
would be pretty good.

Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you tried
feeding less?

My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false
back. The nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one.

I went from 5 ppm to 15 ppm in roughly 10 days. I've tried less
feedings (every other day) I've also tried more frequent partials and
still the nitrates climb.

cleaned tank
 

And protein skimmer.

Wayne Sallee



Wayne Sallee wrote on 2/19/2008 9:29 AM:
Let all of your filtration be done by live rock, and live sand, and
macro algae.

Wayne Sallee



Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 8:54 AM:
jthread wrote:
"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few
days ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15
ppm too high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm
would be pretty good.

Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you
tried feeding less?

My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false
back. The nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one.

I went from 5 ppm to 15 ppm in roughly 10 days. I've tried less
feedings (every other day) I've also tried more frequent partials and
still the nitrates climb.

cleaned tank
 

Wayne Sallee wrote:
Let all of your filtration be done by live rock, and live sand, and
macro algae.

I'm using a Canister with carbon only (No bio-media) I have some live
sand in the tank and a DSB

cleaned tank
 

For carbon, leave it in for at most a week. You can
always dry out the carbon and use it again. But what
you don't want is for your carbon to grow bacteria.

Wayne Sallee



Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 9:35 AM:
Wayne Sallee wrote:
Let all of your filtration be done by live rock, and live sand, and
macro algae.

I'm using a Canister with carbon only (No bio-media) I have some live
sand in the tank and a DSB

cleaned tank
 

The reason that you don't want your carbon to grow
bacteria is because you are trying to get your
nitrates down.

You might also want to try a second nitrate test kit
of a different brand to make sure that you are
getting accurate readings.

Wayne Sallee



Wayne Sallee wrote on 2/19/2008 10:47 AM:
For carbon, leave it in for at most a week. You can always dry out the
carbon and use it again. But what you don't want is for your carbon to
grow bacteria.

Wayne Sallee



Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 9:35 AM:
Wayne Sallee wrote:
Let all of your filtration be done by live rock, and live sand, and
macro algae.

I'm using a Canister with carbon only (No bio-media) I have some live
sand in the tank and a DSB

cleaned tank
 

Thanks Wayne, I'll give that a try

cleaned tank
 

"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
jthread wrote:
"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
jthread wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.


I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days
ago and IM back to 15 ppm..

I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15 ppm
too high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm would be
pretty good.

Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you tried
feeding less?

My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false back.
The nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one.
I went from 5 ppm to 15 ppm in roughly 10 days. I've tried less feedings
(every other day) I've also tried more frequent partials and still the
nitrates climb.

I'm not sure there is anything wrong with that. I don't even know how you
could test so accurately. I think if you have any fish and you are feeding
them you're going to have some nitrates. I was told to do my changes at 20
ppm.
Are you feeding your invertebrates separate from you fish?

Jim

cleaned tank
 

I have a FOWLR no inverts...

cleaned tank
 

"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
I have a FOWLR no inverts...

With a FOWLR, nitrates are much less of a concern than they are in a reef
tank. Most fish can tolerate a sustained 40 ppm with no ill effects. No
need to worry about anything around 20 or less.

--
Steve

cleaned tank
 

Steve Heath wrote:
"Peter Pan" wrote in message
...
I have a FOWLR no inverts...

With a FOWLR, nitrates are much less of a concern than they are in a reef
tank. Most fish can tolerate a sustained 40 ppm with no ill effects. No
need to worry about anything around 20 or less.

Thanks, But I want to add some inverts/ soft corals and would like to
get this under control before making the investment

cleaned tank
 

"jthread" wrote in message ...
The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just
too much light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.

Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.

Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

cleaned tank
 

I think it's easier to keep nitrates down in a reef
tank with corals than it is in a tank without
corals. The corals help take up the nitrates.

Wayne Sallee



Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 3:30 PM:
I have a FOWLR no inverts...

cleaned tank
 

Yep that's right. And also limit nutrient input.

And when you have fast coral growth you have a form
of nutrient uptake.

Wayne Sallee



Pszemol wrote on 2/19/2008 9:38 PM:
"jthread" wrote in message
...
The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much
light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.

Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.

Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

cleaned tank
 

And every reef keeper should have a good sized
refugium with macro algae.

Wayne Sallee



Wayne Sallee wrote on 2/20/2008 9:20 AM:
Yep that's right. And also limit nutrient input.

And when you have fast coral growth you have a form of nutrient uptake.

Wayne Sallee



Pszemol wrote on 2/19/2008 9:38 PM:
"jthread" wrote in message
...
The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much
light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.

Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.

Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

cleaned tank
 

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"jthread" wrote in message
...
The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much light.
I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.

Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.

Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register.

Nitrates 20ppm

The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating. Fish would be fat
if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight.

cleaned tank
 

"jthread" wrote in message ...
Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register.

What test are you using? What is its expected acuracy?
What is the lowest number on the scale?
Do you have the reference sample to check if test is ok?

Note, that phosphates are harder to measure, because
desired concentrations are much, much lower miligrams
than nitrates. Regular concentration of phosphates on
natural reef are below 1mg/l, more at 0.5mg/l level.

Red slime algae in my tanks appear when I have nitrates
very low, below 1mg/L and phosphates above 1mg/l.

Nitrates 20ppm

The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating.
Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight.

Once again - sunlight IS NOT A PROBLEM in the reef tanks.
If we have this chance, we would all like to have the
reef tank under the skylight or with no roof at all :-)

Red algae can be in many shapes and forms - to be more
specific I was talking about red slime algae, cyanobacteria.
This type can survive in the environment low in nitrate
because it can syntethize nitrogen in the gaseous form
diluted in the water. Other types of algae cannot do
this trick so they need nitrates or ammonia in water
as a source of nitrogen. All algae, including cyanobacteria
(red slime) require phosphate as a source of phosphorus.

Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

cleaned tank
 

s.

Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

Chemi-Clean works over night on red slime.. and its reef safe

cleaned tank
 

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"jthread" wrote in message
...
Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register.

What test are you using? What is its expected acuracy?
What is the lowest number on the scale?
Do you have the reference sample to check if test is ok?

Note, that phosphates are harder to measure, because
desired concentrations are much, much lower miligrams
than nitrates. Regular concentration of phosphates on
natural reef are below 1mg/l, more at 0.5mg/l level.

Red slime algae in my tanks appear when I have nitrates
very low, below 1mg/L and phosphates above 1mg/l.

Nitrates 20ppm

The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating.
Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight.

Once again - sunlight IS NOT A PROBLEM in the reef tanks.
If we have this chance, we would all like to have the
reef tank under the skylight or with no roof at all :-)

Red algae can be in many shapes and forms - to be more
specific I was talking about red slime algae, cyanobacteria.
This type can survive in the environment low in nitrate
because it can syntethize nitrogen in the gaseous form
diluted in the water. Other types of algae cannot do
this trick so they need nitrates or ammonia in water
as a source of nitrogen. All algae, including cyanobacteria
(red slime) require phosphate as a source of phosphorus.

Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

thanks for your input. i'm just saying that is where it is growing

cleaned tank
 

"Peter Pan" wrote in message . ..
Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

Chemi-Clean works over night on red slime.. and its reef safe

From the biological point of view, it will kill the cyano
and release all the nutrients back to the water column.
So you are destined to have the tank back to ugly in weeks.

cleaned tank
 

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"Peter Pan" wrote in message
. ..
Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

i meant less than 20. looked about 15 ppm

pretty good for that tank. it's usually about 20 ppm.

it has to do with the canister. (i think) maybe I should gut it and just use
it to circulate water?

the red slime is slime. it's gotta be - and there may be some other red
bacteria growing. Vacuuming works the best. I take the rocks out and scrub
them( in battery acid :-P)



the other tank maintains 10ppm it is almost full of lr. that and a small
filter and a protein skimmer.

i never have to change. just replace evaporated water.

cleaned tank
 

No no no, you need to scrub them in phosphoric acid. :-)

Wayne Sallee



jthread wrote on 2/20/2008 11:25 PM:
I take the rocks out and scrub
them( in battery acid :-P)

cleaned tank
 

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
No no no, you need to scrub them in phosphoric acid. :-)

Wayne Sallee



jthread wrote on 2/20/2008 11:25 PM:
I take the rocks out and scrub them( in battery acid :-P)

I was thinking of taking the guts out of my canister and put a couple of
chunks of lr and a small filter disk. then change the disk about every three
days. what do you think?

backwash it with Clorox and drain 'o'

cleaned tank
 

I would not recommend using a canister filter
containing live rock and filter fiber. If you want
to take the guts out, then leave it gutless.

Wayne Sallee



jthread wrote on 2/21/2008 3:05 PM:
I was thinking of taking the guts out of my canister and put a couple of
chunks of lr and a small filter disk. then change the disk about every three
days. what do you think?

Jthread cleaned toilet tank and got shit all over himself....
 

On Feb 18, 5:53*pm, "jthread" wrote:
finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.

tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.

--
Jim

Rigged yea righr rigged, the ****ing blind leading the blind is what
this post as well as this usenet gorup is about.........and this group
in particular leads them all in having the largest collection of
assholes that are capable of using a computer, and in all relaity they
should be only doing the job intended for assoles and that is
providing a hole to get rid of bodily wastes.......not typing and
replying on a computer......in a public
group........CLUELESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!