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-   -   A/C & Radiator fan not working (http://www.autobanter.com/showthread.php?t=13168)

Mike M December 4th 04 10:46 PM

A/C & Radiator fan not working
 
Recently my 1996 SC1 began to get hot in heavy traffic. Normally the
radiator fan will come on when the A/C is on or if the temp gauge reaches
1/2 way. In this case neither happened. In testing the components both the
fan and the A/C compressor work when 12v is applied directly to them. The
car has a single coolant temp sensor so the temp gauge would not work if the
coolant tem sensor was bad. No trouble codes from the computer and the fuses
and relays are all good. Any ideas would be appreciated.

mike



Blah blah December 5th 04 12:24 AM

In article >, fairmail53
@yahoo.com says...
> Recently my 1996 SC1 began to get hot in heavy traffic. Normally the
> radiator fan will come on when the A/C is on or if the temp gauge reaches
> 1/2 way. In this case neither happened. In testing the components both the
> fan and the A/C compressor work when 12v is applied directly to them. The
> car has a single coolant temp sensor so the temp gauge would not work if the
> coolant tem sensor was bad. No trouble codes from the computer and the fuses
> and relays are all good. Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> mike


Relay(s) maybe.

94SC2 December 5th 04 01:28 AM

see topic "cooling fan" Nov 27


Mike M December 5th 04 08:33 PM

Tried the relays.so all work OK.

"Blah blah" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, fairmail53
> @yahoo.com says...
>> Recently my 1996 SC1 began to get hot in heavy traffic. Normally the
>> radiator fan will come on when the A/C is on or if the temp gauge reaches
>> 1/2 way. In this case neither happened. In testing the components both
>> the
>> fan and the A/C compressor work when 12v is applied directly to them. The
>> car has a single coolant temp sensor so the temp gauge would not work if
>> the
>> coolant tem sensor was bad. No trouble codes from the computer and the
>> fuses
>> and relays are all good. Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> mike

>
> Relay(s) maybe.




Mike M December 5th 04 08:33 PM

Yes, I read that first. Thanks

"94SC2" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> see topic "cooling fan" Nov 27
>




Blah blah December 6th 04 07:34 AM

Oh oops I missed that in your post. Might have to start tracing your
power source up the line. Just have to make sure its commanded on. ECM
maybe... <i'm half asleep here...>

In article >, fairmail53
@yahoo.com says...
> Tried the relays.so all work OK.
>
> "Blah blah" > wrote in message
> ...
> > In article >, fairmail53
> > @yahoo.com says...
> >> Recently my 1996 SC1 began to get hot in heavy traffic. Normally the
> >> radiator fan will come on when the A/C is on or if the temp gauge reaches
> >> 1/2 way. In this case neither happened. In testing the components both
> >> the
> >> fan and the A/C compressor work when 12v is applied directly to them. The
> >> car has a single coolant temp sensor so the temp gauge would not work if
> >> the
> >> coolant tem sensor was bad. No trouble codes from the computer and the
> >> fuses
> >> and relays are all good. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >>
> >> mike

> >
> > Relay(s) maybe.

>
>
>


jdubsl2 December 7th 04 03:32 AM

"The car has a single coolant temp sensor so the temp gauge would not
work if the coolant tem sensor was bad."

This is not true. If you have never changed the CTS, change it to see
if your problem is solved. The original design CTS was made of resin,
which cracked due to the high heat of the coolant. The new, replacement
OE part is made of brass for durability. If the sensor is cracked, it
will not read the correct coolant temp (in your case, lower than it
really is) and the PCM will not command the fan on.
A bad CTS doesn't always set a DTC, either.


jdubsl2 December 7th 04 03:43 AM

The temperature guage will still operate on the IP cluster if the
sensor is bad.

You're headed in the right direction, though. The ECTS (engine
coolant temperature sensor). The original part was made of resin, which
cracked due to the high temperature of the coolant passing over it. The
new, redesigned OE part is made of brass for durability and to correct
this issue. If you replace it (I would, if you never have... $10 in
parts) be sure the contacts on the connector are clean.

Hopefully this won't be a double-post. The first time I tried, it
didn't show? New to this group. :-)



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