replacing brake lines
 

I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on her
93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they said that
I have to bend the lines.

So instead of paying the dealership big money for their brake lines I just
went to the local auto supply store and picked up a 3/16 thread double
flared 30" steel line and installed it.

My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I
took out but does follow the same general path. I made sure I bent the
lines in a gentle curving fashion and there aren't any kinks. How do I know
that these lines are reliable as the factory ones? My bends are far from
being perfect but I think they will do the job. There was a clip holding
the old line to the axle but I didn't re-install it on the new line b/c I
figured that the steel clip will rub on the steel line thus eventually
puncturing the line. The factory line had the clip b/c the old line also
had a spring like winding around it to protect it.

Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two are
different lengths of threads. I screwed the longer threads into the rubber
line for the rear brakes (it didn't really screw in a whole lot but I didn't
see any leaks and the threads were screwed all the way in) and the shorter
threaded end into the wheel cylinder. In both instances when the screw in
fittings were completed tightened there were threads still exposed on both
ends of the line.

From what i've said does it sound like I installed these lines correctly?
The brakes work just fine and I didn't see any leaks and i even stomped on
the brake pedal to make sure it didn't sink to the floor.

I don't want my friend to crash her van b/c I made some mistake along the
way...

thanks

In article <g8IHd.128375$Xk.94621@pd7tw3no>, Steve wrote:
> My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I
> took out but does follow the same general path.

So long as it doesn't hit anything and nothing hits it, it will be fine.

> being perfect but I think they will do the job. There was a clip holding
> the old line to the axle but I didn't re-install it on the new line b/c I
> figured that the steel clip will rub on the steel line thus eventually
> puncturing the line. The factory line had the clip b/c the old line also
> had a spring like winding around it to protect it.

I usually paint the brake lines I make and I'll use some vacume hose in
place of the factory springs in the critical spots. Been doing it that
way for years and never had a problem because of it.

> Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two are
> different lengths of threads.

I've bought lines like that, doesn't matter unless one of ends it
goes into is particularly deep. My guess is there are some cars out there
that need the longer threaded fitting in some spots.

> From what i've said does it sound like I installed these lines correctly?

Sounds fine.

> The brakes work just fine and I didn't see any leaks and i even stomped on
> the brake pedal to make sure it didn't sink to the floor.

After bleeding I assume.

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005, Steve wrote:

> I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on
> her 93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they
> said that I have to bend the lines.

Right. Pre-formed lines are not supplied.

> So instead of paying the dealership big money for their brake lines I
> just went to the local auto supply store and picked up a 3/16 thread
> double flared 30" steel line and installed it.

Right, but it sounds like you left off the armor coil on the outside of
the line.

> My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I
> took out but does follow the same general path. I made sure I bent the
> lines in a gentle curving fashion and there aren't any kinks.

Good.

> There was a clip holding the old line to the axle but I didn't
> re-install it on the new line b/c I figured that the steel clip will rub
> on the steel line thus eventually puncturing the line. The factory line
> had the clip b/c the old line also had a spring like winding around it
> to protect it.

It's best to secure the line. If you don't feel you can use the steel
clip, use Tie-wraps or something. And yeah, you really do need the armor
coiling.

> Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two
> are different lengths of threads. I screwed the longer threads into the
> rubber line for the rear brakes (it didn't really screw in a whole lot
> but I didn't see any leaks and the threads were screwed all the way in)
> and the shorter threaded end into the wheel cylinder. In both instances
> when the screw in fittings were completed tightened there were threads
> still exposed on both ends of the line.

That's fine.

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 12:12:50 -0500, "Daniel J. Stern"
> wrote:

>On Thu, 20 Jan 2005, Steve wrote:
>
>> I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on
>> her 93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they
>> said that I have to bend the lines.
>
>Right. Pre-formed lines are not supplied.
>
>> So instead of paying the dealership big money for their brake lines I
>> just went to the local auto supply store and picked up a 3/16 thread
>> double flared 30" steel line and installed it.
>
>Right, but it sounds like you left off the armor coil on the outside of
>the line.
>
>> My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I
>> took out but does follow the same general path. I made sure I bent the
>> lines in a gentle curving fashion and there aren't any kinks.
>
>Good.
>
>> There was a clip holding the old line to the axle but I didn't
>> re-install it on the new line b/c I figured that the steel clip will rub
>> on the steel line thus eventually puncturing the line. The factory line
>> had the clip b/c the old line also had a spring like winding around it
>> to protect it.
>
>It's best to secure the line. If you don't feel you can use the steel
>clip, use Tie-wraps or something. And yeah, you really do need the armor
>coiling.
>
>> Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two
>> are different lengths of threads. I screwed the longer threads into the
>> rubber line for the rear brakes (it didn't really screw in a whole lot
>> but I didn't see any leaks and the threads were screwed all the way in)
>> and the shorter threaded end into the wheel cylinder. In both instances
>> when the screw in fittings were completed tightened there were threads
>> still exposed on both ends of the line.
>
>That's fine.


And the armour coiled lines ARE available from the aftermarket. They
bend nicer than the plain lines too. Roughly double the price, but
they are still pretty cheap.