my wet dry diagram
 

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
what do ya guys think, heres a paint drawing of my wet dry siphon system.
all the equip is hanging or on the floor.
wolfhedd




I like it, but since you're going this far, I'd really recommend a
pump-driven skimmer rather than the airstone-driven one. What size is the
tank, and how much water will the sump hold?

My 2 cents.

my wet dry diagram
 

ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the time with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and renew my dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum supplements, which will run me
about the cost of the skimmer i imagine first, then i have to come up with
another 80 dollars again for the skimmer. so thats twice over budget, so
theres goin to be a coup0le month lag here until i get this skimmer i fear.
the sump is 6 gal, the tank is 55-0r60 gal, not sure, need to mesure and
calculate. only had it 10 yrs, lol. think its 55.

i have a neat idea for those of you that dont like to add water frequently,
reduces maintence, easy. I took a 5 gal bucket last week, brought it home
with fresh RO, like usual, but got an idea this time, took a siphon hose,
attached it to sump, now theyre one. have 4 more gallons on my sump now.
works in two ways, incase of poweroutage, more space in sump, about 9 gals,
and incase of vacation, i can add as m any of these 5 gal buckets with 4 gal
of water in them as i like, in fast i could fill my living floor with them
daisy chaining them to eachother with a connectinig siphon hose on each.
this will all siphon into the sump as the sump line gets lower than the
buckets. of course this is impractical, but you get the idea(ie... a 20
gallon flat wide sump next to a refugium inside a tamk stands bowels) .
i would keep a lid on the reseviour to keep water as clean as possible, when
you need to add water to your tank, add it to the resorviour to keep from
stirring up the sump contents.

2 things to remember,
resorvior waterline must be no higher than ideal sump water height, (unless
resorvior is watertight then it wouldnt be a siphon, and you would be
redesigning my idea, lol)

and THIS WILL NOT ADD TO YOUR TANKS TOTAL VOLUME OF CIRCULATED FILTERED
WATER. it will only add a backup system to keep water level from being
reduced as quickly, there-by REDUCING MAINTENANCE.

wolfhedd

p.s. if i totally confused anyone, i can send you a paint diagram sometime

"Dinky" wrote in message
news:bHDkb.596751$cF.261138@rwcrnsc53...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
what do ya guys think, heres a paint drawing of my wet dry siphon
system.
all the equip is hanging or on the floor.
wolfhedd




I like it, but since you're going this far, I'd really recommend a
pump-driven skimmer rather than the airstone-driven one. What size is the
tank, and how much water will the sump hold?

My 2 cents.

my wet dry diagram
 

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and renew my dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but the salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd be testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete it more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't dose what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad scientist :)

kc

my wet dry diagram
 

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and renew my
dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but the salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd be
testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete it more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't dose
what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad scientist :)

kc



my nitrate is 200ppb,(0.2ppm), calcium is around 600ppm, a little high yes
but not hurting much, ph is 8.3 salinity 1.026. ammonia 0.0. why fret the
adding of the good stuff? you should see the population boom of thousands
of hot pink tube worms with bright white stems, the thousands of
brownish-purple soft tube worms with soft stems, and then theres these
sponge ball looking things, that they cant figure out even WHAT THEY ARE.
THEY LOOK LIKE SEA URCHIN EMBRYOS, EXTEND THEIR TENTACLE ARMS, ATTACH TO
ROCK, THEN BREAK OFF TO MULTIPLY. those are all over my tank too. It said
on the side of the bottle of phyto plankton will aid in propagation, thats
exactly what it did, it said on the side of the dKh bottle that it would
keep alkinity at a buffering level, did just that. so i have exceptional
base life growth because of the added chemicals. understand, these are only
elements and minerals, and alkalinity buffers that i put into my tank,
besides the aupplemental addition of iodine which is THE MOST ESSENTIAL
ELEMENT IN THE OCEAN according to some marine biologists, and iron, which is
only used to keep the plants healty and good to supplement every once in a
while. What are my base acropora and wierd looking jelly balls, and the tube
worms, and the yellow zoanthids supposed to eat? i add phytoplankton for
them once to twice a week approx, the instructions state to add daily or
every other day depending on animal load.

wolfhedd

my wet dry diagram
 

so isnt it ok to be using these chemicals since they seem to be being used
up by the tank, and since i DO test my water, and that there is more method
to my madness than you assumed? lol

wolfhedd


"wolfhedd" wrote in message
k.net...

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the
time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and renew my
dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but the
salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd be
testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete it more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't dose
what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad scientist
:)

kc



my nitrate is 200ppb,(0.2ppm), calcium is around 600ppm, a little high yes
but not hurting much, ph is 8.3 salinity 1.026. ammonia 0.0. why fret the
adding of the good stuff? you should see the population boom of thousands
of hot pink tube worms with bright white stems, the thousands of
brownish-purple soft tube worms with soft stems, and then theres these
sponge ball looking things, that they cant figure out even WHAT THEY ARE.
THEY LOOK LIKE SEA URCHIN EMBRYOS, EXTEND THEIR TENTACLE ARMS, ATTACH TO
ROCK, THEN BREAK OFF TO MULTIPLY. those are all over my tank too. It
said
on the side of the bottle of phyto plankton will aid in propagation, thats
exactly what it did, it said on the side of the dKh bottle that it would
keep alkinity at a buffering level, did just that. so i have exceptional
base life growth because of the added chemicals. understand, these are
only
elements and minerals, and alkalinity buffers that i put into my tank,
besides the aupplemental addition of iodine which is THE MOST ESSENTIAL
ELEMENT IN THE OCEAN according to some marine biologists, and iron, which
is
only used to keep the plants healty and good to supplement every once in a
while. What are my base acropora and wierd looking jelly balls, and the
tube
worms, and the yellow zoanthids supposed to eat? i add phytoplankton for
them once to twice a week approx, the instructions state to add daily or
every other day depending on animal load.

wolfhedd

my wet dry diagram
 

you test strontium, iodine and moly???

and all are being consumed at larger rates then water changes can replenish
them?

kc

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
nk.net...
so isnt it ok to be using these chemicals since they seem to be being used
up by the tank, and since i DO test my water, and that there is more
method
to my madness than you assumed? lol

wolfhedd


"wolfhedd" wrote in message
k.net...

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet
cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the
time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and renew
my
dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but the
salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd be
testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete it
more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't dose
what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad scientist
:)

kc



my nitrate is 200ppb,(0.2ppm), calcium is around 600ppm, a little high
yes
but not hurting much, ph is 8.3 salinity 1.026. ammonia 0.0. why fret
the
adding of the good stuff? you should see the population boom of
thousands
of hot pink tube worms with bright white stems, the thousands of
brownish-purple soft tube worms with soft stems, and then theres these
sponge ball looking things, that they cant figure out even WHAT THEY
ARE.
THEY LOOK LIKE SEA URCHIN EMBRYOS, EXTEND THEIR TENTACLE ARMS, ATTACH TO
ROCK, THEN BREAK OFF TO MULTIPLY. those are all over my tank too. It
said
on the side of the bottle of phyto plankton will aid in propagation,
thats
exactly what it did, it said on the side of the dKh bottle that it would
keep alkinity at a buffering level, did just that. so i have
exceptional
base life growth because of the added chemicals. understand, these are
only
elements and minerals, and alkalinity buffers that i put into my tank,
besides the aupplemental addition of iodine which is THE MOST ESSENTIAL
ELEMENT IN THE OCEAN according to some marine biologists, and iron,
which
is
only used to keep the plants healty and good to supplement every once in
a
while. What are my base acropora and wierd looking jelly balls, and the
tube
worms, and the yellow zoanthids supposed to eat? i add phytoplankton
for
them once to twice a week approx, the instructions state to add daily or
every other day depending on animal load.

wolfhedd

my wet dry diagram
 

no, wasnt aware that tests were needed for those, or that they were even
available, so i decided to do the math. i read the percentages of iodine,
not iodide, on the bottle of essential elements, or coral vite, whichever of
the two has it in it, then i add that to what i supplement with the bottle
of iodine to come up with the total tank intake. To come up with dosage,
take lowest value of recommended amount to feed/amount of animal load, which
in is a ratio under 1 because i have small animal load and multiply by
dosge which is a capful or 5ml. so it ends up being about 4 ml/2wks and i
take that in half so as not to over dose. so basically i give 4-5 ml a
month of iodine a month, and change the water 4 times in that given month,
before starting the next cycle. strontium ends up being twice week 5ml,
then water change. iodine hasnt been added but once in last 2/1/2 months,
iron hasnt been added in last 3 mos, because of hair algae boom. do you
think that the strontium or iodine at the reates i use them ar harmful to
anything? tank is 55-60 gal, sump 6 gal.

wolfhedd

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...
you test strontium, iodine and moly???

and all are being consumed at larger rates then water changes can
replenish
them?

kc

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
nk.net...
so isnt it ok to be using these chemicals since they seem to be being
used
up by the tank, and since i DO test my water, and that there is more
method
to my madness than you assumed? lol

wolfhedd


"wolfhedd" wrote in message
k.net...

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet
cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the
time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and
renew
my
dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but the
salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd be
testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete it
more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't
dose
what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad
scientist
:)

kc



my nitrate is 200ppb,(0.2ppm), calcium is around 600ppm, a little high
yes
but not hurting much, ph is 8.3 salinity 1.026. ammonia 0.0. why fret
the
adding of the good stuff? you should see the population boom of
thousands
of hot pink tube worms with bright white stems, the thousands of
brownish-purple soft tube worms with soft stems, and then theres these
sponge ball looking things, that they cant figure out even WHAT THEY
ARE.
THEY LOOK LIKE SEA URCHIN EMBRYOS, EXTEND THEIR TENTACLE ARMS, ATTACH
TO
ROCK, THEN BREAK OFF TO MULTIPLY. those are all over my tank too. It
said
on the side of the bottle of phyto plankton will aid in propagation,
thats
exactly what it did, it said on the side of the dKh bottle that it
would
keep alkinity at a buffering level, did just that. so i have
exceptional
base life growth because of the added chemicals. understand, these
are
only
elements and minerals, and alkalinity buffers that i put into my tank,
besides the aupplemental addition of iodine which is THE MOST
ESSENTIAL
ELEMENT IN THE OCEAN according to some marine biologists, and iron,
which
is
only used to keep the plants healty and good to supplement every once
in
a
while. What are my base acropora and wierd looking jelly balls, and
the
tube
worms, and the yellow zoanthids supposed to eat? i add phytoplankton
for
them once to twice a week approx, the instructions state to add daily
or
every other day depending on animal load.

wolfhedd

my wet dry diagram
 

i cant make a WAG (wild a$$ guess) as to what your system needs. you have to
detremin that by testing, which you can get a test kit for those listed.
some arent so cheap tho.

kc

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
no, wasnt aware that tests were needed for those, or that they were even
available, so i decided to do the math. i read the percentages of iodine,
not iodide, on the bottle of essential elements, or coral vite, whichever
of
the two has it in it, then i add that to what i supplement with the bottle
of iodine to come up with the total tank intake. To come up with dosage,
take lowest value of recommended amount to feed/amount of animal load,
which
in is a ratio under 1 because i have small animal load and multiply by
dosge which is a capful or 5ml. so it ends up being about 4 ml/2wks and i
take that in half so as not to over dose. so basically i give 4-5 ml a
month of iodine a month, and change the water 4 times in that given month,
before starting the next cycle. strontium ends up being twice week 5ml,
then water change. iodine hasnt been added but once in last 2/1/2 months,
iron hasnt been added in last 3 mos, because of hair algae boom. do you
think that the strontium or iodine at the reates i use them ar harmful to
anything? tank is 55-60 gal, sump 6 gal.

wolfhedd

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...
you test strontium, iodine and moly???

and all are being consumed at larger rates then water changes can
replenish
them?

kc

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
nk.net...
so isnt it ok to be using these chemicals since they seem to be being
used
up by the tank, and since i DO test my water, and that there is more
method
to my madness than you assumed? lol

wolfhedd


"wolfhedd" wrote in message
k.net...

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet
cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of
the
time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and
renew
my
dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but
the
salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd
be
testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps
require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete
it
more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't
dose
what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad
scientist
:)

kc



my nitrate is 200ppb,(0.2ppm), calcium is around 600ppm, a little
high
yes
but not hurting much, ph is 8.3 salinity 1.026. ammonia 0.0. why
fret
the
adding of the good stuff? you should see the population boom of
thousands
of hot pink tube worms with bright white stems, the thousands of
brownish-purple soft tube worms with soft stems, and then theres
these
sponge ball looking things, that they cant figure out even WHAT THEY
ARE.
THEY LOOK LIKE SEA URCHIN EMBRYOS, EXTEND THEIR TENTACLE ARMS,
ATTACH
TO
ROCK, THEN BREAK OFF TO MULTIPLY. those are all over my tank too.
It
said
on the side of the bottle of phyto plankton will aid in propagation,
thats
exactly what it did, it said on the side of the dKh bottle that it
would
keep alkinity at a buffering level, did just that. so i have
exceptional
base life growth because of the added chemicals. understand, these
are
only
elements and minerals, and alkalinity buffers that i put into my
tank,
besides the aupplemental addition of iodine which is THE MOST
ESSENTIAL
ELEMENT IN THE OCEAN according to some marine biologists, and iron,
which
is
only used to keep the plants healty and good to supplement every
once
in
a
while. What are my base acropora and wierd looking jelly balls, and
the
tube
worms, and the yellow zoanthids supposed to eat? i add
phytoplankton
for
them once to twice a week approx, the instructions state to add
daily
or
every other day depending on animal load.

wolfhedd

my wet dry diagram
 

i took your advice, and now am down to using only using turbo calc,
superbuffer, and an occasional, bi monthly, addition of only coral acell,
phytoplankton, then monthly essential elements and coral vite. keeping the
iron, iodine on the shelf, and wont re-up on my strontium.
The Mad Sciencetist is not mad anymore, haha.

wolfhedd

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...

"wolfhedd" wrote in message
ink.net...
ah, hah, good advice, thankyou. its the thing i would like, yet cant
afford. anything over 40 dollars gets kinda expensize most of the time
with
my budget. i have to buy another 5 gallon bucket of salt and renew my
dKh
buffer solution, and strontium and molybendum
supplements,........................



I'd venture to guess your just wasting money on all of these but the salt.

unless you have a system that consumes these elements, and you'd be
testing
for them rather then just adding it because a bottle said
so...............you don't need to be adding them. sps/lps require
strontium if they are in large numbers in the system and deplete it more
then the water changes replenish it.

get the skimmer, then test kits before you dose anything. don't dose
what
you don't need in a system just because you like to play mad scientist :)

kc