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-   -   Still Newbie here, did some water tests, whats; next? (http://www.fishkeepingbanter.com/showthread.php?t=18716)

[email protected] March 10th 05 05:01 AM

Still Newbie here, did some water tests, whats; next?
 
Hi,

I got ahold of one of those master ater tests and here are the results:

Ammonia - 0
general Hardness - 180 (moderatly hard, very hard)
Carbonate hardness - 110
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8
Nitrites - 0

What does this mean?
What's my next step?

Btw what is the appropriate water temperature anyway?
My tank is currently at 24C, a friend with a tank said it should be
around 21-22C only??


Richard Sexton March 10th 05 05:18 AM

In article .com,
wrote:
Hi,

I got ahold of one of those master ater tests and here are the results:

Ammonia - 0
general Hardness - 180 (moderatly hard, very hard)
Carbonate hardness - 110
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8
Nitrites - 0

What does this mean?


It means you have a test kit and found your water was average.
180 ppm is "very hard". Wonder what they'd call my 1200ppm
water or LA's 800ppm water... "liquid rock" ? I'd call
180 ppm water just slightly ther other side of "soft".


--
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http://parts.mbz.org
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633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org

Elaine T March 10th 05 07:39 AM

Richard Sexton wrote:
In article .com,
wrote:

Hi,

I got ahold of one of those master ater tests and here are the results:

Ammonia - 0
general Hardness - 180 (moderatly hard, very hard)
Carbonate hardness - 110
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8
Nitrites - 0

What does this mean?



It means you have a test kit and found your water was average.
180 ppm is "very hard". Wonder what they'd call my 1200ppm
water or LA's 800ppm water... "liquid rock" ? I'd call
180 ppm water just slightly ther other side of "soft".


1200??? Ack! My 240 ppm GH water leaves the worst scale on my drinking
glasses and shower I've ever seen. Are you sure LA is up at 800? San
Diego and LA both have Colorado river water and my 240 ppm number is
from the water plant rather than a test kit so I know it's accurate.

Anyway, you should be able to keep most fish in that water. It's a
little high pH for REALLY sensitive fish like rams or discus.

--
__ Elaine T __
__'
http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__

Squeek March 10th 05 08:02 AM

Hi!
just letting you know that you dont need to use both PH test kits...

ONly use the high range PH if you are keeping fish that live in a high
PH....Other fish (like goldies and stuff) you can just use the low range ph
kit....
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I got ahold of one of those master ater tests and here are the results:

Ammonia - 0
general Hardness - 180 (moderatly hard, very hard)
Carbonate hardness - 110
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8
Nitrites - 0

What does this mean?
What's my next step?

Btw what is the appropriate water temperature anyway?
My tank is currently at 24C, a friend with a tank said it should be
around 21-22C only??




Richard Sexton March 10th 05 08:52 AM

It means you have a test kit and found your water was average.
180 ppm is "very hard". Wonder what they'd call my 1200ppm
water or LA's 800ppm water... "liquid rock" ? I'd call
180 ppm water just slightly ther other side of "soft".


1200??? Ack! My 240 ppm GH water leaves the worst scale on my drinking
glasses and shower I've ever seen. Are you sure LA is up at 800? San
Diego and LA both have Colorado river water and my 240 ppm number is
from the water plant rather than a test kit so I know it's accurate.


Yup, that's what the LA water district report said it was when
I lived there. It picks up a lot of hardness from the concrete
pipelines. And some radiation, but it's in "acceptible limits".

I got an RO filter after I read that...

Anyway, you should be able to keep most fish in that water. It's a
little high pH for REALLY sensitive fish like rams or discus.


Doesn't seem to bother anything.

--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org

Elaine T March 10th 05 09:04 AM

Richard Sexton wrote:
It means you have a test kit and found your water was average.
180 ppm is "very hard". Wonder what they'd call my 1200ppm
water or LA's 800ppm water... "liquid rock" ? I'd call
180 ppm water just slightly ther other side of "soft".



1200??? Ack! My 240 ppm GH water leaves the worst scale on my drinking
glasses and shower I've ever seen. Are you sure LA is up at 800? San
Diego and LA both have Colorado river water and my 240 ppm number is


from the water plant rather than a test kit so I know it's accurate.


Yup, that's what the LA water district report said it was when
I lived there. It picks up a lot of hardness from the concrete
pipelines. And some radiation, but it's in "acceptible limits".

I got an RO filter after I read that...


Anyway, you should be able to keep most fish in that water. It's a
little high pH for REALLY sensitive fish like rams or discus.



Doesn't seem to bother anything.

I meant the original poster for rams or discus. When my ex-husband kept
discus here, they needed a minimum of 50% weekly water changes to handle
the higher pH and hardness, and twice weekly was better. Otherwise they
went dark and striped and hid in the corner. I think the high pH
stressed them so that DOC and nitrates had to be at an absolute minimum.
Since rams are similar, I'm adding enough RO water to my tank with the
ram to drop the pH to about 7.2 and that's working much better. (I'm
guessing 8 the correct measurement for OP's water since it's hard to
read above 7.4 with bromthymol blue.)

--
__ Elaine T __
__' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__


Dick March 10th 05 11:16 AM

On 9 Mar 2005 21:01:10 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi,

I got ahold of one of those master ater tests and here are the results:

Ammonia - 0
general Hardness - 180 (moderatly hard, very hard)
Carbonate hardness - 110
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8
Nitrites - 0

What does this mean?
What's my next step?

Btw what is the appropriate water temperature anyway?
My tank is currently at 24C, a friend with a tank said it should be
around 21-22C only??


24c is 75f, I run my tanks about 77 - 78 f. I don't think your friend
has good information. However, check your LFS or check web sites that
sell fish. They usually indicate water temperature ranges for each
species.

Now that you know your water parameters, you can quit testing and get
down to "fishing."

dick

Geezer From The Freezer March 10th 05 11:40 AM



" wrote:

Hi,

I got ahold of one of those master ater tests and here are the results:

Ammonia - 0
general Hardness - 180 (moderatly hard, very hard)
Carbonate hardness - 110
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8
Nitrites - 0

What does this mean?
What's my next step?

Btw what is the appropriate water temperature anyway?
My tank is currently at 24C, a friend with a tank said it should be
around 21-22C only??


I'd consider doing nitrAte test too!!

Bill March 10th 05 02:59 PM

On 2005-03-10, wrote:
PH Low range - 7.6
PH high range - 8


Just a note, if you go off the scale on one pH test (like you did with
the first one you listed), that means that the pH can't be measured with
that test as it's out of its range. In other words, your pH is 8.0 --
the first kit couldn't accurately measure it, but the second one could.
FWIW, my pH is around 8.3.

Angrie.Woman March 10th 05 03:52 PM


"Squeek" wrote in message
...
Hi!
just letting you know that you dont need to use both PH test kits...

ONly use the high range PH if you are keeping fish that live in a high
PH....Other fish (like goldies and stuff) you can just use the low range
ph kit....


Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I thought that if your PH ended up at the high
end of the low range, you needed to use the next kit. I think that the low
end kit only goes so high, so if your water has a higher PH you need to use
the high end. But only the high end...

A




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