Specific Gravity
 

Bought my tank setup, but the previous owner kept the salinity/specific
gravity at north of 1.026 to keep "parasites down". I've been slowly
lowering it to 1.024 which is at the top of the green zone for all my SG
float calibrations.

But, then I read that anywhere between 1.022 and 1.026 is normal, but
that a low salinity is needed to get rid of parasites.

It could be that both ends of the spectrum are deadly to parasites. Any
comments on this?

And, then what is the best level for a reef aquarium w/ anemone, corals,
and eventually a refugium.

--Kurt

Specific Gravity
 

Why so worried about parasites ?
They make medicine for that...
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...l0/medications

With regard to specific gravity from past conversations in this group,
measuring specific
gravity is only approximate anyway. Seems like we all get different
readings from different gadgets. Keep it somewhere in the middle of the
range and
you will have no problems.

You want to keep parasites at bay get yourself a few Neon Gobies and a
cleaner shrimp.
http://sealifeflorida.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=147
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...cfm?pCatId=696

I believe a U.V. Sterilizer is also used to destroy parasites...but again
medication is available.

If salinity is too high or too low you will stress your tank (fish, inverts
etc...)


"KurtG" wrote in message
...

Bought my tank setup, but the previous owner kept the salinity/specific
gravity at north of 1.026 to keep "parasites down". I've been slowly
lowering it to 1.024 which is at the top of the green zone for all my SG
float calibrations.

But, then I read that anywhere between 1.022 and 1.026 is normal, but that
a low salinity is needed to get rid of parasites.

It could be that both ends of the spectrum are deadly to parasites. Any
comments on this?

And, then what is the best level for a reef aquarium w/ anemone, corals,
and eventually a refugium.

--Kurt

Specific Gravity
 

Normally if a fish has a parasite its common practice to do
hyposalinity which is when the SG is reduced to 1.019. The influx of
more fresh water kills the parasites. It works. I can;t say about high
sg doing the same. I run all my tanks at 1.026 since I like a reef
tank, and have never had a problem. At one point in time I used to
run tanks at 1.023 and 78/79 or so degrees and they did alright, but
at 1.026 and 81-82 deg they do fantastic.

What I would like to know is why neon gobys copst as muchs they do for
them being easy to tank raise, or at least thats what I have been
told. Here they sell for $20 for a NG of 1/2-3/4" length. Sure was a
bargin that day they had 1 to 1.25" NG at Petco for $9.95. It was the
one and only time they have ever stocked in any neon gobys.


-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!

Specific Gravity
 

TheRock wrote:

I believe a U.V. Sterilizer is also used to destroy parasites...but again
medication is available.

A U/V sterilizer will slow down the spread of diseases like oodinium, but it's
not a cureall.

George Patterson
Forgive your enemies. But always remember who they are.

Specific Gravity
 

KurtG wrote:

Bought my tank setup, but the previous owner kept the salinity/specific
gravity at north of 1.026 to keep "parasites down". I've been slowly
lowering it to 1.024 which is at the top of the green zone for all my SG
float calibrations.

Keeping the salinity high dehydrates the occupants of the tank. Not a good idea.

But, then I read that anywhere between 1.022 and 1.026 is normal, but
that a low salinity is needed to get rid of parasites.

A low salinity will reduce parasites; in fact, a short freshwater bath will
eliminate many parasites. This is used by quite a few retail stores to reduce
the introduction of diseases when they buy livestock.

And, then what is the best level for a reef aquarium w/ anemone, corals,
and eventually a refugium.

Every text I've read says 1.023 is best.

Consider also the fact that your livestock supplier, whether local or mail
order, will be keeping stock in water very close to 1.023 sg. If your salinity
is significantly different, you subject every new purchase to unnecessary shock
when you acclimate it to your tank.

George Patterson
Forgive your enemies. But always remember who they are.

Specific Gravity
 

I belive the 1.023 is a happy medium, but its not the "ideal" sg. Look
at that online graph of reef temps and SG of the world. The SG of
1.026 is closer to being actual than 1.023 is. I use sal****er that I
collect iunt he Gulf of Mexico and its always been pretty well dead on
1.026 as fas a sg is concerned and even in the pan handle region which
is not considered tropical or even sub tropics a water temp from about
May through October of 82 or more is not uncommon. Jusyt looking at
the online graph again depiects a reef temp of in the high 70's is not
in the range of the majority of reefs from where the majority of the
fish sold and kept comes from.

I really thtink by going at the mid to lower extremes one has a
better chance of possibly evading a problem on a screw up so its more
a safety margin. Its easy to see with a max SG of 1.026 and temps of
82 or so it leaves little rooms for error in a lot of cases.

Just my 2 cents on temp and SG parameters.

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 17:09:14 GMT, George Patterson
wrote:

KurtG wrote:

Bought my tank setup, but the previous owner kept the salinity/specific
gravity at north of 1.026 to keep "parasites down". I've been slowly
lowering it to 1.024 which is at the top of the green zone for all my SG
float calibrations.

Keeping the salinity high dehydrates the occupants of the tank. Not a good idea.

But, then I read that anywhere between 1.022 and 1.026 is normal, but
that a low salinity is needed to get rid of parasites.

A low salinity will reduce parasites; in fact, a short freshwater bath will
eliminate many parasites. This is used by quite a few retail stores to reduce
the introduction of diseases when they buy livestock.

And, then what is the best level for a reef aquarium w/ anemone, corals,
and eventually a refugium.

Every text I've read says 1.023 is best.

Consider also the fact that your livestock supplier, whether local or mail
order, will be keeping stock in water very close to 1.023 sg. If your salinity
is significantly different, you subject every new purchase to unnecessary shock
when you acclimate it to your tank.

George Patterson
Forgive your enemies. But always remember who they are.



-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!

Specific Gravity
 

TheRock wrote:
Why so worried about parasites ?
They make medicine for that...
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...l0/medications

Not worried about parasites, but I am concerned about salinity levels.
There's lots of conflicting information.

Specific Gravity
 

hahahahaha, ain;t that the truth. One will run a tank at lowest
parameters of temp and SG and cal etc and state they have excellent
results, another will run it at max parameters and then there are
those that go well over or well below and have good results. Allyo
ucan do is experiiment and make notes. Its easy to start off with a sg
of say 1.023 and increase it over a period of time and observe.
NO harm wil be done if its done slowly to allow acclimation and to
allow time for any changes to affect the tank and see its results,
thus inticing the next increase or decrease.

As to oarasites, I QT all new inhabitants, and remove any problematic
fish and treat in a QT tank not in the DT tank. If say fish in DT
acquired Ich, then that DT wiol be emptied of fish or anyhtng that can
get Ich for at least 6 weeks or more and fish treated in QT. Give the
DT a chance to die off of Ich bugs before I reintroduce fish back to
it. I only put calcium sup ( B-Ionic 2 part) or Seachem Reef Calcium
and food in my DT nothing else.

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 12:32:08 -0500, KurtG
wrote:

TheRock wrote:
Why so worried about parasites ?
They make medicine for that...
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...l0/medications

Not worried about parasites, but I am concerned about salinity levels.
There's lots of conflicting information.



-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!

Specific Gravity
 

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 09:45:16 -0600, Tristan
wrote:

Normally if a fish has a parasite its common practice to do
hyposalinity which is when the SG is reduced to 1.019.

Hello Tristan,

I think that the figure should read "reduce down to SG 1.012 over a
period of a few days" and maintain that level for at least 2 weeks.
Then increase back to full-strength over a few days. 1.019 will not
eliminate ich. Obviously inverts should not be subjected to this
treatment.

Regards, Fishnut.

The influx of
more fresh water kills the parasites. It works. I can;t say about high
sg doing the same. I run all my tanks at 1.026 since I like a reef
tank, and have never had a problem. At one point in time I used to
run tanks at 1.023 and 78/79 or so degrees and they did alright, but
at 1.026 and 81-82 deg they do fantastic.

What I would like to know is why neon gobys copst as muchs they do for
them being easy to tank raise, or at least thats what I have been
told. Here they sell for $20 for a NG of 1/2-3/4" length. Sure was a
bargin that day they had 1 to 1.25" NG at Petco for $9.95. It was the
one and only time they have ever stocked in any neon gobys.


-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!

Specific Gravity
 

Yep your right, typo........


On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 14:44:46 GMT, wrote:

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 09:45:16 -0600, Tristan
wrote:

Normally if a fish has a parasite its common practice to do
hyposalinity which is when the SG is reduced to 1.019.

Hello Tristan,

I think that the figure should read "reduce down to SG 1.012 over a
period of a few days" and maintain that level for at least 2 weeks.
Then increase back to full-strength over a few days. 1.019 will not
eliminate ich. Obviously inverts should not be subjected to this
treatment.

Regards, Fishnut.

The influx of
more fresh water kills the parasites. It works. I can;t say about high
sg doing the same. I run all my tanks at 1.026 since I like a reef
tank, and have never had a problem. At one point in time I used to
run tanks at 1.023 and 78/79 or so degrees and they did alright, but
at 1.026 and 81-82 deg they do fantastic.

What I would like to know is why neon gobys copst as muchs they do for
them being easy to tank raise, or at least thats what I have been
told. Here they sell for $20 for a NG of 1/2-3/4" length. Sure was a
bargin that day they had 1 to 1.25" NG at Petco for $9.95. It was the
one and only time they have ever stocked in any neon gobys.


-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!



-------
I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!