Hi Ct,

With a Hanna TDS Meter, you can test your Total Disolved Solids in your source
water, your RO output, and your DI output. If your DI output is higher than
your RO output, the DI is spent and needs to be replaced.

If you want to test your carbon filters, check for Chlorine on your RO output
(or DI, but not necessary). If it is higher than 0, the carbon is spent and
needs to be replaced.

If your general output is slower than you would expect this time of year, your
Sediment filter may be clogged. Rule of Thumb is to replace it every 6 months.
Please replace it with a 5 micron filter, not a .5 micron. The 5 micron will
grab out all the larger particles, but the .5 will simply clog up much much
faster. Unless you just want to replace that every month, that is.

I've done some checking on flush kits, and everything I've found on the topic
seems to indicate it is more hype than benefit. It does not rinse the RO
membrane in any form or fashion. Others may have more comments on it. It isn't
difficult to install one, but I just don't see the need.

Your source water is the cold water line. Ideally, output is optimal at 76F, so
with your colder source water the output will be slower. If you can coil about
25' of tubing in a bucket of water, and put in an aquarium heater to keep the
bucket water at 76F, your RO/DI's output should be relatively close to best
conditions, assuming your TDS aren't off the chart.

Marc


Ct Midnite wrote:

Was it Total Dissolved Solids that you said to test for to see if your
RO unit is working properly? If so what brand of test kit do you
recommend? Will spa tests work fine if I can get them locally?

Why again do you not recommend the flush kit?

And finally is it warm water that makes for better production or cold
water? I thought warm. And if so is it worth while to make some sort
of mixing system to warm the water? The water I'm running through is
very cold up here in Iowa. Probably 40 deg.

And again thanks for the unit.

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/

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