NetMax wrote:
"Justice" wrote in message
news:Cmxdf.106716$y_1.10145@edtnps89...

NetMax wrote:

"Gill Passman" wrote in message
k...


Liz wrote:


OK, got it. I would then go with redundant filters and a flow meter
(something that can detect current) that could be connected to
_something_ (auto-dialer, computer, whatever) to send you a message.

I'm sure we'll all be interested in anything you come up with.

Liz

PS: Hubbies are so useful sometimes, aren't they? G

Yep...I'll keep you all posted. I'm going to make this part of my tank
upgrade project which will be set up with redundancy - I've got to
sell my car before I'm allowed to order the new tank (it's surplus to
requirements)

Gill

PS and yep they are g - he's also great at getting the Fluval's
restarted after maintenance - I end up with blisters and arm ache


In regards to the overtemperature monitoring, I would guess that this
would not be too difficult to locate. Ideally, one of the digital
aquarium remote thermometers would have a high limit detector, which
you could IO to a simple automotive type 12V relay open circuiting a
defective heater. This may be more work that it's worth, but the
expression is, once bit twice shy ;~).

In regards to the water flow detector, I prefer to use multiple
filters for a simple low-tech approach to redundancy. If you really
wanted a flow detector, then they do exist. Coincidentally, the post
below appeared in another newsgroup just a few days ago. I will
reprint it as the fellow was looking for feedback.

cut % paste begins:===============


Hi there

My name is Denis Gibbs, and I am a Director of a British Company
called
Before the Event Ltd, located at Cheltenham UK

I am a retired Marketing Director of a very large US Company, and I am
also
the inventor of a new water leak detector.
This was originally designed for washing machines etc. UK and US
patents
have been issued, and there is enormous interest in the traditional
field.

However something quite interesting has arisen - with particular
applications to aquaria. We are about to bring to the market a device
which
can plug into the water input tube of a fish tank. Just cut the
existing
tube and insert. This device - which has no moving parts - can monitor
whether water is present or not in the input tube If the pump fails,
or the
input tube becomes detached from the pump, then an alarm is given.
Special
electronics have been designed so that the battery - which operates
the
electronics - only looks at the circuit once per minute, and then only
for
about 50 millisecs. This really does conserve the battery. Although
the
present design covers an audible alarm, it would be possible to send
an
alarm signal to a mobile phone.
Or do virtually anything with the electronic circuitry.

Additionally we have incorporated an anti-syphon gizmo, which opens
the
inlet water pipe to air when then water flow ceases.
No more water all over the carpet.

I'm writing to you really just to get your reaction about the new
product.

Is such a device of interest to aquarium enthusiasts? Particularly in
the
US. If so, we can probably make it available in you country.

I look forsward to hearing from you.

Regards

Take Care

Denis Gibbs

cut % paste ends:===============

Maybe you can contact him and offer to test it. Positive results
could then be relayed to the newsgroup.
hth

for overheating you cold interprate a small radiator unit say on sold
for the pc market that would at least be adding cooler water to the
point needed seeing as you already have pumps set up for filration just
plunbing design.


Sounds like a good idea. Living in Canada, I haven't been very motivated
to find ways to cool my tanks (Edmonton is probably similar ;~)

i wish it is much colder here -30 not uncommon but less humed -20 here
frome my experience -10 there

, but this
is a real problem for many folks to the south. It would be possible to
have a stainless steel finned radiator along the back of the tank. I'm
not sure if the convection cooling achieved would be very strong, but
with controlled lighting (switching off when the water is too warm) the
radiator would probably offset the heat added by the powerhead, so the
tank could be made to run at room temperature (that's already progress).

I could add a couple of hose connectors, so that buyers in really warm
climates could add a coil of stainless steel tubing (instead of the
finned radiator), which they would run through their fridge or freezer.
Then the system needs a tiny thermostat valve, but it should work fine.