Well the important thing is to get the waterto 28 to 30 degrees C.
Remove carbon from filters and increase aeration, turn filters to create
surface disturbance or add airstones.
You then add your meds, perhaps a half dose first off and then a second one
3 days later.
Increase the temp speeds the life cycle up as the med which only lasts about
3 days in the water only kills the swimmer stage of the parasite.
Adding aquarium salt at 1 tablespoon per 20L may help wounds caused by the
parasites and help prevent fungus.
But relax, until ya spot those salt like grains on the fins you don't need
to be too worried and even then until it gets onto the eyes most fish can be
saved.
I have found driftwood soaks up malachite green so I usually try remove
large bits before treatment..... no proof there just something I have
noticed.




"Erin (Eugene)" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hi all and hope some of you may recall my topic "Beating the Heat" in
which I worried about the high temps our tanks were getting at with
this summer temperatures.

Took your advice and used the fan method, which worked...too well,
though, as my heater malfunctioned. What terrible timing for such a
disaster! We were out of town and the liklihood is the tanks got to
about 70 degrees at the lowest at least twice.

Now I'm obviously concerned about ich. We raised the temp to about 75
pretty quickly (within 30 minutes)...probably an error, but we weren't
thinking correctly, and were panicking a bit. I still am.

My botia striata is scaleless and treating ich may be difficult. The
internet says they can withstand temperatures at 72-73 at the lowest,
so 70 is not too much lower, but it IS lower.

Any words of advice? How likely is it that ich will develop? How deadly
is ich in loaches? And how do you botia enthusiasts recommend treating
it?

(cross-posted to alt.aquaria)