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Old October 10th 06, 10:28 AM posted to rec.aquaria.freshwater.misc
swarvegorilla
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Default Large Water Changes When Playing With Water Chemistry


"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
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On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 12:22:45 +1000, "swarvegorilla"
wrote:


Maybe you could help me with a more specific scenario?

I have a 55 gal planted tank. Tap water is pH 7.2, kH2, GH 5.
I have large chunks of Malaysian driftwood, that after 6 months
preparation probably still aren't ready for a tank, but look good
anyway. When sitting in tap water it causes a pH crash in no time. So
I'm preventing that in the tank with crushed coral in the filter. But
I still need to do large weekly water changes due to the driftwood
soup and fertilizer routine.

Now I'd like to add CO2 injection. I'm, expecting to add more crushed
coral to further raise the kH to a suitable level. If all goes
according to plan there would be a difference between the tank and tap
of about pH 6.8 & 7.2, kH 2 & 4 or so, GH yet unknown.

Is this too extreme for big water changes for Angels, blue rams,
otocinculous, Amano & Red Cherry Shrimp, Tai Flying fox, SAE's? Or
does it also have to do with the individual and its health?

Thanks


Not quite your setup, but I have a 55 with CO2, crushed coral, Otos and
SAEs, etc. I'm sort of doing the EI thing too, except I don't add
Nitrates. My PH is at 6.8, KH was 5 last time I checked and tap water is
about PH 7.4, although harder in the winter. I change about 40% of the
water every week with no obvious signs of distress. I've lost a couple of
Otos along the way, but I really can't attribute this to water changes.

I change about 50% of the water on the Gold Fish tank every week and the
smallest fish will occasionally start flashing. If this happens I will
stop refilling and add the rest of the water later. I suspect it's the
large change in the Nitrates causing the one fish to flash. A better
solution is in the works.


nitrates, among other things.
changes in water chemistry will affect the fish surfaces exposed to it.
Slowing down when you notice a reaction is always a good plan.
I go by the theory that if your fish look relieved when you water change
then your not doing enough of them!
Ideal reaction is..... no reaction!
:-)
Ottos need a fair amount of food to browse on too
Have been having great results, not crowding and feeding vege flake and
frozen.