On Mar 3, 10:47?pm, "Gwendolyn" wrote:
I was told that beta fish do not like bright lights or a lot of
movement in the water. They also don't like cold water being natives
of Thailand. In looking into heaters apparently you need to have a
water filter if you have a heater. The water can't be stagnant. So how
can I heat the water to a comfortable 70degrees and not upset our fish
with the motion of the filter? How much motion is bad? Is the amount
by a filter acceptable for Beta's?


Hi there.
I've been specializing in Bettas (2 t's and is properly pronounced
"bet-uh") for the past 29 years. I've also bred and raised many
batches of fry in my time. (not gloating, just giving you a little
background on me so that you can trust what I'm telling are facts).
Bettas aren't bothered by bright lights. They aren't botherred by
normal filtration. However, something like a poweder head is not good
at all, since it would create much too much current.
Most are kept in small bowls at shops only. It's the easiest way to
keep them until somebody buys them.
Tank mates can't be anything that would be considered fin nippers,
such as most Tetras, Barbs and most types of Cichlids.
Many of the of the live bearers are fine, and any of the Cory cats are
also fine.
Many also do well with African Dwarf Frogs (not to be confused with
African Clawed Frogs..those get HUGE, where as the dwarves stay quite
small).
All fish, no matter if they can breathe surface air too benifit from
filtration. It's quite a bad myth out there that Bettas don't need it.
All fish should have filtered tanks, unless the tanks are *heavily*
stocked with live plants and water changes are done 1-2 times weekly.
Now it's great that your Betta has gotten a 10g tank, instead of that
bowl. You mentioned heating it to a "comfortable" 70*f. That's a bit
too chilly for Bettas. They should be really be kept between 78-80*f
to thrive. Get a quality submersible heater and a thermomter.
A good filter for that size tank would be a HOB (hang on back) type
power filter. Forget about the under gravel filters as they are
outdated and can cause cess pools under the plastic plates if not
properly maintained. There best left for the seasoned hobbyist if used
at all.
Do weekly, 10-20% water changes on this tank. It'll go through a cycle
(the nitrifying bacteria colonies will be growing) and you have to
keep the ammonia levels down during this time period.
Feed him twice a day, small amounts. A quality flake for one feeding,
and a few frozen Bloodworms for the other is a great routine.
Frozen Brine Shrimp is also another good food.
If you don't understand the cycling process let me know and I can
provide you with several links.
Post any Q's you have, as none are too small or considered silly. You
may also email me directly if you like.
Here's another group that is moderated and won't have a bunch of
nonsense posts in bewteen actual fish related ones.

http://groups.google.com/group/The-F...m?lnk=li&hl=en