I would not remove the stand floor if it's high
enough above the house floor. If the bottom of the
stand looks like 4 2x4's on their side, and the
stand floor on top of that, then you could modify
the front 2x4 by cutting out an arch, so that you
have full access to under the stand.

Wayne Sallee



Patrick wrote on 1/11/2008 8:13 PM:
Dave,

Thank you for this suggestion. I really like the idea, and would never
have thought about doing this. The stand does have a "floor" under the
cabinet, so unless I do what Wayne suggested and modify it, maybe by
removing the stand "floor", I would only be able to seal the outside
part of the stand, but I think that would still give me a better measure
of protection the wood floor.

Thanks Patrick


atomweaver" wrote in message
...


You really don't want to put anything between the tank and the floor.
What
I'd say you want to do is isolate whatever water hits the floor from the
wooden structure of the tank stand. When you find the right place for
the
tank, run a wide bead of silicone caulk against it and the floor, and run
the bead both a half-inch up onto the wood of the stand (more of a flat
ribbon of caulk at that point, than it is a caulk bead), and a half-inch
over the floor itself, to form a caulk 'dam' a half-inch high. Do the
same
thing on the inside of the stand frame, if the stand has an open-bottom
interior.
Then, just like a caulked tub, for 5 or 10 bucks, your stand will be
isolated from the water, no wicking under the frame, and the floor can
still be easily cleaned/mopped up. Silicone caulks can be peeled off of
finished wood with a minimal amount of residue to clean up, if you
ever had
to move the tank. Just keep an eye out for if the tank gets bumped,
as the
caulk bead could crack. Its a cheap/easy patch repair if you catch sight
of a crack.

DaveZ
Atom Weaver