Keep in mind that salt doesn't evaporate with the water, so if you
kept dosing the same amount every time you did a water change, you
could end up with a high concentration of it.

yeah you are right, what I should have said was add a proportionate amount
of salt to how much water is changed.

I wouldn't use any medication "just because". The ones that are used
for flukes and whatnot generally have copper in it, which in high
concentractions (and it's not that high for fish), can end up killing
your fish, snails AND plants. Inverts beweare.

yeah this stuff doesn't actually contain copper, I will find the name of the
chemical and post it, it's mainly a wormer, but it works for gill problems
as well. the stuff worked for me anyway. it makes sense that the stress
that makes them scratch would open them up to paracites as well yeah?


Sodium bicarbonate will only raise the pH to a certain point where it
will cap. It would be quite a feat if you managed to make your water
"too hard" by just adding baking soda.

if the fish were raised in gh 50ppm, and you throw them in at the "proper"
150-200ppm, they aren't going to like it.

It really has nothing to do about how the fish are raised, and
everything to do about how quickly you raise water parameters - that's
why you ensure that you raise water properties such as pH, GH and KH
slowly to acclimatize the fish to these new conditions.
\
alot of breeders in my area don't worry about raising the hardness of their
water from what it is out of the tap. when I set up my tank, I raised the gh
and kh to around 200ppm, where it's only around 50ppm out of the tap. so I
was throwing in my fish from fairly soft water to very hard. this is what I
was getting at..