"John " wrote in
message ...
Interesting that the ad says 995g, but the dimensions yield 955g and
the actual water capacity after the thickness is 875g (if filled to
the top) - but that's still one tank of a tank ;~). If you ever need
to
Amazing you picked up on that. I saw the "995" on the title of the
item, but always (in my mind) figured it was 955
Everyone rounds up, so I always check. Next someone might go and call it
a 1000g tank ;~), (actually with sump, it would be bigger than 1000g).
medicate or do any calculations, I would use 850g (accounting for the
substrate and rock work) and add the sump capacity if being used.
This seems like a good point to start. I just got a reality check. I
went broke treating the 120g for fungus, I cannot even imagine if I had
an outbreak in this tank. Like treating the ocean for ich.
Actually Ich is easy to treat for in large tanks. You can buy the
medicine by the gallon. Even the sulphur based drugs are manageable (try
not to think about the money too long), but it's the antibiotics that
will kill you. If you figure 25 cents a gallon, a typical three
treatment dosage will cost you $640 dollars. Recreational fish
wholesalers in the US have access to bulk quantites of antibiotics which
you then keep in your freezer, but the best is to follow a quarantine
program religiously so you don't have to medicate the tank, ever.
So if I used two cups of rock salt in 120g then 850 / 120 = 7.08 14
Cups of rock salt every month ...
Yes the largest Course Solar Water Softner Salt I can find.
I really don't have enough room for the 250 Gallon Reservoir
Tank/Sump that comes with the tank, and want to compact the
sump/filter.
What about a 55g wet/dry filter with 3" of foam at eh top and 15 to 30
gallons of bio balls?
That sounds like something I would do, so that doesn't mean that it would
actually work ;~). I think the challenge would be to spread the flow
uniformly across the top, and provide a 1st stage mechanical filtration
which would be easy to clean.
Water is pumped up through the tube, and the sand grains lift up to
allow the water to go through. The end result is that there is a tiny
gap
I did do some more research and found this info, but your description
is short and easier to understand.
3) NetMax, will the Reservoir Bed described here work for your idea
of an undergravel space to suck up the detritus? (Continuous Gravel
Filter)
I don't think so. Their reservoir bed appears to be a sump.
Duh - for some reason I was reading it as 7' X 2' X 2" Thinking it was
2" high.
It's going to depend on your fishload, but 1000 to 2000 gph is the
My guess too
biological, but you will need serious mechanical filtration and a good
flow to pick up their waste.
This I can get away using the sump without the FBF?
I'm not a particular fan of the FBF as it requires a little bit of
tweaking to get working just right and keep it working just right (ie:
the need to stay within a range of flow rates). I also don't like the
idea of centralizing so much biological functionality in a single
location (leaving the system more exposed to failure in my way of
thinking), but I'm also not a user so my opinion might not be that
worthwhile. Personally, if I was going to use FBF, I would design a
system just for it, using 2 tubes, 2 pumps and a large pre-filter with a
progressive overflow and a visual status indicator that even I wouldn't
miss.
The original 250g sump was about 30% of the fish-tank, which jives with
typical ratios I often see of around 20-30%. I don't know what science
was ever used to get to this ratio (a 20 or 30g is the right size to fit
in the stand of a 100g tank?), but I want to point out that your proposed
55g sump is around 6.5% of the fish tank. You might be pushing your
biological/mechanical limit in that direction, and with your carniverous
game fish, you might be pushing your waste production in the opposite
direction. While it's hard to imagine that a 55g filter would be too
small ;~), if it is, then you will need to service it more frequently, so
design and locate it for easy access.
Beer cases, start drinking.
Starting to wish I still drink bear
Seriously, tank weight (750lbs?) plus 875g x
8.75lbs/gal (7,665) plus rockwork (250lbs) = 3.9 tons. Stands are
easy, make sure the floor will take it.
6" reinforced concrete
Rebar is great stuff : )
Lumber works fine, making several box frames (ie:4x4) and fastening
them together,
Are 4 X 4's structually sounder that 2 X 6's and the uprights spaced 2'
apart would only have to support 800# each and 16' apart at 550#
OK - 4 X 4 uprights and 2 X 6 cross members. I was more concerned with
holding up the middle of the tank then the edges.
and then a layer of plywood and expanded polystyrene on top.
What is the purpose of the styro layer?
To compensate for surface irregularities between the stand and the bottom
of the tank, due to pre-existing interferers (variation in stand and tank
flatness, bolt heads, bottom tank trim etc), and irregularities due to
uneven expansion (ie: thermal expansion of materials, swelling of wood
from water ingress etc). It also provides a thermal insulation
increasing the isolation between the water and the ambient air
fluctuations.
10' length evenly supported (so if using beer cases, make sure the
bottles are all the same size ;~).
The I better use full strength beer, not light beer. What about a dark
lager?
Drink the beer first, the tank is held up with empties. This also helps
pay for the move (when you have to switch apartments or homes, you cash
in the bottles, and have one less thing to move too ;~).
If the fish load of the new tank is the same as the 120g (ie: you
moved the fish over), then the cycle might not be of any significance.
I'd do test measurements for a few days while feeding a little less.
The nice think about game fish is that I don't FEED them, they help
themselves to the other inhabitants of the tank.
That sounds cruel, so I'm hoping the other 'inhabitants' are shrimps,
worms, minnows, grocery seafood etc.
http://www.2cah.com/netmax/about/mytanks/POND2.jpg at around 800g, and
it
Cool, would yo uhelp me build one of those in my next project?
Ha, I want to build one for myself first. I actually have one under
construction, but it's tiny, only 4' high and I have no live creatures
planned for it.
used a pool pump and pool sand filter. The waterfall added lots of
O2.
hint: Peek into the pond newsgroup. They have lots of experience
with
Not a bad idea.
TANKS for the idea's, I will be back.
JOhn
We know you will be
)
cheers
--
www.NetMax.tk