Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my wife isn't
constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab up this
"pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4" x 1 1/2"
bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient, or should I
be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one in the
picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the driveshaft to
this yoke ...

/Peter

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if you don't
> have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel up with a
> couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion to hold it
> steady while tightening.
>
> They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and other kinds
> of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine wrong
> even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine shop!
>
> They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot do the
> preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you do, you
> fast have a dead box.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> >
> > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the pinion gear from
> > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for that. This is
a
> > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a wrench of
any
> > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for holding the
> > yoke.
> >
> > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers, hubs, and axle
> > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on to tighten
the
> > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's right?
> >
> > /Peter
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed out as the
> > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was up against
the
> > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds without
axles,
> > > for pinion test.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > >
> > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue Loc-Tite then.
> > > >
> > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and tighten the nut to
160
> > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and turned the
pinion
> > with
> > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it needs to be
> > tighter.
> > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard to tell
what's
> > lash
> > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a helper with
> > stronger
> > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake pedal hard
enough
> > to
> > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion nut.
> > > >
> > > > /Peter
> > > >
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that have loosened.
If
> > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is not sliding
up
> > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as the crush
> > sleeve
> > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them. Have you hit
it
> > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful in feeling
with
> > the
> > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's been re-used
a
> > > > couple of
> > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on it? Red or
Blue?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > /Peter