this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass

For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle. It takes time to learn how
to use a peen hammer ... just be patient it will all come to you as you
use it ---- dont lose patience or you'll break through the metal. a
thousand whacks should move sufficient metal to create a dimple.


In article >, wkearney99
> wrote:

> Ok, supposedly I was wrong about the 2.8L pan not fitting a 3.4L. If that's
> the case then what can I do to prevent a replacement pan from getting dinged
> by the axle? Somehow or another the pan managed to get whacked by the axle
> and the dent creased the pan enough to cause splits that leak.
>
> Anyone have a clue as to whether the gasket will work?
>
> While I'm in here what's it take to deal with a rear seal leak? It may or
> may not have one. This poor old beast had to pull several tons of dirt this
> spring and it seems like it might have developed a leak to the rear of the
> engine. Doesn't seem to be a valve cover so I'm left guessing about the
> rear seal. If I'm in there dealing with pan I might as well fix the rear if
> it's shot.
>
> Anyone got a good supplier they'd recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney
>
>