Bill,
I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. I
do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to do
with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP in
the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, in
your opinion?

Thanks,

Chip



"L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Chip,
> If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
> percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
> when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
> Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
> open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
> chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
> combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
> that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
> side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
> most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
> I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
> again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
> gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
> little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> WKJ wrote:
>>
>> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
>> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
>> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I
>> do
>> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
>> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
>> (almost)
>> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of
>> the
>> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
>> engine
>> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>>
>> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but
>> it
>> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
>> grabbed
>> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>>
>> 11) Engine Oiling:
>> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
>> gears.
>> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
>> TeamRush's
>> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
>> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
>> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
>> block,
>> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
>> up,
>> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>>
>> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
>> process,
>> if they exist.
>>
>> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that
>> and
>> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in
>> a
>> few locations before it get it back.
>>
>> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on
>> the
>> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
>> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is
>> not
>> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
>> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>>
>> Chip
>>
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