On 4 Sep 2006 06:18:22 -0700, "bruce" > wrote:

>I don't know all the proper names for the components of the solenoid,
>but if you're referring to the circular contact on the shaft that goes
>down into the solenoid armature and would complete the circuit across
>the two contacts through the case of the solenoid, then yes. I removed
>the shaft and cleaned up all the way around the edge of it with a wire
>wheel. I also unbolted both of the contacts that pass through the case
>of the solenoid, and did the same to them both on the contacts and on
>the threads. My thinking being that the cleaner all the contacts are,
>the less resistence to current flow there will be. <snip>

Quite correct. Mr. Ohm's Law works every time.

> I'm clearly not
>having any current flow problems in the activation of the solenoid
>windings as I can distinctly hear that throwing and going clack, and
>we're not talking about the sort of clicking that you get when your
>battery is weak. <snip>

>I read some other posts that talked about Toyota's using the same sort
>of starter solenoid and having the solenoid contacts available (whereas
>our wonderful Chrysler dealers wouldn't). I think I'm going to pursue
>that next since those contacts are probably relatively cheap. <snip>

If the contacts are both clean and properly making, replacing them
won't do any good. The way to check them properly is to measure the
voltage drop across them when trying to use the started. To do this,
place a voltmeter across the battery connection and the motor terminal
and then crank the starter. Nippondensos generally (but not always)
have access to the motor side of the solenoid from the outside of the
case, so you shouldn't have muc problem doing this. When the motor
cranks and if the contacts are good, there should be as close to zero
voltage drop at this point as possible. However, if there's a high
resistance in the contactor circuit, you'll see a large voltage drop
here. Also, when/in the motor refuses to turn, you'll probably see
nearly full battery voltage here, so set your voltage meter (if it's
not autoranging) to accommodate 12 VDC.

If the contactor is good, you see little if any voltage drop and the
motor STILL won't turn, you're looking at stuck/dirty/worn brushes,
which on a Nippondenso, aren't that big a deal to change out. Brushes
for these are usually available at better auto parts outlets...NOT the
schlock chains, like Poop Boys and AutoBone.

Good luck!