Hi Chip,
If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on that
side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and the
gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

WKJ wrote:
>
> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, I do
> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before I
> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to (almost)
> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy of the
> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the engine
> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>
> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, but it
> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've grabbed
> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>
> 11) Engine Oiling:
> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor gears.
> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. TeamRush's
> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug in
> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the block,
> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is up,
> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>
> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the process,
> if they exist.
>
> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products that and
> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined in a
> few locations before it get it back.
>
> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances on the
> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that is not
> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the one
> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>
> Chip
>
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