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#1
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My pH is around 9 and I cannot get it to go down. In about a week's
time I've put in 3 bottles of Beckett pH Lower and now I've been adding a granular pH reducer with no success. The pond is roughly 3600 gallons. Even though the pond is about 3 weeks old and young ponds can show screwy pH values, I cannot explain the failure to reduce the pH because: 1) Ammonia level is 0 2) Total Alkalinity is around 100 (the tester shows a color that's about halfway between the one for 80 and the next for 120) 3) The rock border is not limestone. I don't know what it is, but I ensured that the rocks that I bought were not limestone. Sometimes the pH is a bit lower in the morning and I finally think that the pH is finally going to a good value but in the afternoon I'm back up to 9. It might actually be higher since 9 is the highest my tester will go. I have several plants that are potted in the sandy Florida soil and I cover the pots with that standard tan gravel found at Lowes. Some of my pots are on bricks, but bricks are made from clay and that's not known for changing pH values like concrete block. Some of my plants seem to be suffering from the high pH values. The new leaves on my Water Hyacinths have turned yellow and some other plants and aborb their nutrients directly from the water are not looking too good. I'm starting to get angry about this and I'm dumping larger quantities of pH reducer in the pond. I'm afraid that something might be preventing these chemicals from doing what they're supposed to be doing then all of a sudden my pH will drop to 5! What's going on? |
#2
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![]() "scs0" wrote in message oups.com... My pH is around 9 and I cannot get it to go down. In about a week's time I've put in 3 bottles of Beckett pH Lower and now I've been adding a granular pH reducer with no success. The pond is roughly 3600 gallons. Even though the pond is about 3 weeks old and young ponds can show screwy pH values, I cannot explain the failure to reduce the pH because: 1) Ammonia level is 0 2) Total Alkalinity is around 100 (the tester shows a color that's about halfway between the one for 80 and the next for 120) 3) The rock border is not limestone. I don't know what it is, but I ensured that the rocks that I bought were not limestone. Sometimes the pH is a bit lower in the morning and I finally think that the pH is finally going to a good value but in the afternoon I'm back up to 9. It might actually be higher since 9 is the highest my tester will go. I have several plants that are potted in the sandy Florida soil and I cover the pots with that standard tan gravel found at Lowes. Some of my pots are on bricks, but bricks are made from clay and that's not known for changing pH values like concrete block. Some of my plants seem to be suffering from the high pH values. The new leaves on my Water Hyacinths have turned yellow and some other plants and aborb their nutrients directly from the water are not looking too good. I'm starting to get angry about this and I'm dumping larger quantities of pH reducer in the pond. I'm afraid that something might be preventing these chemicals from doing what they're supposed to be doing then all of a sudden my pH will drop to 5! What's going on? How is your pond constructed? Is it made of concrete? If it is, you should have sealed the concrete before using it. The calcium hydroxide in the concrete will leach into the water and will cause a very high pH. If it is not concrete, you should test the pH of your tap water. If it is in the 7 range, then I would do a 50% water change, but do it slowly if you have animals in the pond. If the tap water also has a very high pH, I would contact your local water company because a pH of 9 in tap water is hazardous. I don't like adding pH reducers to any aquatic system. I prefer to make incremental pH changes by changing the water over time. Of course, if you have no fish or other animals in the pond, making a significant pH change isn't going to hurt much of anything. I'm also wondering about the pH of the sand you use for your plants. Some Florida sands have a very high pH because they are ocean sands, or derivitives thereof. If you have any unused sand lying around, you should test the pH of this sand. It could be your culprit. Finally, I wouldn't use sand for water plants anyway. You should use a heavy clay or a clay/gravel mix. |
#3
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scs0 wrote:
My pH is around 9 and I cannot get it to go down. In about a week's time I've put in 3 bottles of Beckett pH Lower and now I've been adding a granular pH reducer with no success. The pond is roughly 3600 gallons. Even though the pond is about 3 weeks old and young ponds can show screwy pH values, I cannot explain the failure to reduce the pH because: What on earth is the point of even _thinking_ about pH in a three week old pond? In another three weeks, whether you do anything or not, the pH will be different, anyway. Give it some time to settle, _then_ worry about pH. In any even, "pH Down", "pH Lower", or any of those things seem to have just about zero effect on ponds. If your alkilinity isn't changing, you haven't added enough acid to move the pH anyway. As for the fact that the "rock border is not limestone", you'd have been better off if it was. Limestone won't raise your pH to anything your fish or plants can't handle, and it helps cut down on swings. There's nothing wrong with a pH of 8 to 8.5. 'm starting to get angry about this and I'm dumping larger quantities of pH reducer in the pond.**I'm*afraid*that*something*might*be preventing these chemicals from doing what they're supposed to be doing then all of a sudden my pH will drop to 5! Probably. -- derek |
#4
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My pond is made from an EPDM liner so concrete construction is not an
issue. I'm glad you asked about the tap water pH because I forgot to mention that, I tested the pH last week and it was in the 7-8 range. I forget what it was but it was something pretty typical like 7.2 or 7.4. Over the weekend I finished up some work on the pond and filled it with an additional ~400 gallons or so of water. This was a combination of tap water and rainwater that poured on Saturday and I'm still having problems. I'm not sure what my sand's pH would be, I'm not right on the coast but I suppose the entire peninsula was right on the coast at one time or another. I would love to use clay soil. Up north I saw some native ponds that had a clay bottom and the smooth heavy texture seemed perfect for aquatic plants but I haven't been able to find clay anywhere. I've tried big outlets like Lowes and Home Depot. I've tried smaller nurseries, I tried two rock & gravel yards, and I've tried water garden speciality places and nobody sells clay. I always read about people using clay for aquatic plants but no one ever reveals the secret on where to buy it! I'm afraid of using kitty litter because I don't feel secure that its added perfumes and other additives would be safe in a pond with plants and fish. I tried an aquatic plant soil once, I think it was Scotts, and it was horrible. I had expected it to be granular clay that would disolve when wet, but the light chunks didn't dissolve at all. It was like trying to pot an aquatic plant in styrofoam balls. The stuff was too light and therefore had pitiful holding power. I can't believe its still on the market. Oh, and my pots aren't completely sand. I noticed that gravel always seems to sink into the planting medium so since gravel makes an adequate potting medium I mixed gravel into the pots. (It's probably a 75% sand to 25% gravel ratio though) |
#5
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There's nothing wrong with
a pH of 8 to 8.5. I've heard that high pH values aren't bad for fish, but I read that plants have a difficult time absorbing nurtients with a pH above 7.8 - especially the free floating ones. My Hyacinths are looking pretty sad and from what I read a high pH will cause the symptoms that I have seen with them. Maybe I am being a little too worried over this. The fish seem happy and the rooted aquatic plants are growing, since I live in Florida I will always have easy access to water hyacinths anytime I want them so maybe I should hold off on playing with the pH for a few more weeks. |
#6
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![]() "scs0" wrote in message oups.com... My pond is made from an EPDM liner so concrete construction is not an issue. I'm glad you asked about the tap water pH because I forgot to mention that, I tested the pH last week and it was in the 7-8 range. I forget what it was but it was something pretty typical like 7.2 or 7.4. Over the weekend I finished up some work on the pond and filled it with an additional ~400 gallons or so of water. This was a combination of tap water and rainwater that poured on Saturday and I'm still having problems. I'm not sure what my sand's pH would be, I'm not right on the coast but I suppose the entire peninsula was right on the coast at one time or another. I would love to use clay soil. Up north I saw some native ponds that had a clay bottom and the smooth heavy texture seemed perfect for aquatic plants but I haven't been able to find clay anywhere. I've tried big outlets like Lowes and Home Depot. I've tried smaller nurseries, I tried two rock & gravel yards, and I've tried water garden speciality places and nobody sells clay. I always read about people using clay for aquatic plants but no one ever reveals the secret on where to buy it! I'm afraid of using kitty litter because I don't feel secure that its added perfumes and other additives would be safe in a pond with plants and fish. I tried an aquatic plant soil once, I think it was Scotts, and it was horrible. I had expected it to be granular clay that would disolve when wet, but the light chunks didn't dissolve at all. It was like trying to pot an aquatic plant in styrofoam balls. The stuff was too light and therefore had pitiful holding power. I can't believe its still on the market. Oh, and my pots aren't completely sand. I noticed that gravel always seems to sink into the planting medium so since gravel makes an adequate potting medium I mixed gravel into the pots. (It's probably a 75% sand to 25% gravel ratio though) Hmmm. I suspect that it may be the Florida sand you are using, but I could be wrong. You should check the pH. If you don't have a pH kit for soil, you can take a fresh sample of the sand (not from the pots), and mix it with tap water in a small glass or jar (check the pH of the tap water first). Let the mixture sit for a few hours (one day might be better), then check the pH of the water. If it is in the same range or higher than your pond water, you've likely found your culprit. You can use bentonite clay as a substrate for plants, which you should be able to get at the building materials section of Lowes. Sometimes it comes in bags like concrete, and sometimes it comes in 5-gallon buckets. It's pretty cheap. Oh, I almost forgot. When using bentonite, it is a good idea to mix it with water in a small tub or other container. Mix it a little at a time because bentonite absorbs water like crazy and will swell to 20 times its dry volume. I have mixed a cup at a time with good results. The stuff will be very slippery and icky to touch. Once it has completely swelled as much as it is going to, then you can mix some gravel in with it and then plant your plants in the pot you are going to use, using the bentonite/gravel mixture for the substrate. Good luck. ~George~ ________________________ Here is a quicktime movie of my albino catfish beeing fed last year. He's much bigger now: http://home.insightbb.com/~jryates/catfish_eating.MOV |
#7
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![]() "scs0" wrote in message oups.com... My pond is made from an EPDM liner so concrete construction is not an issue. I'm glad you asked about the tap water pH because I forgot to mention that, I tested the pH last week and it was in the 7-8 range. I forget what it was but it was something pretty typical like 7.2 or 7.4. Over the weekend I finished up some work on the pond and filled it with an additional ~400 gallons or so of water. This was a combination of tap water and rainwater that poured on Saturday and I'm still having problems. I'm not sure what my sand's pH would be, I'm not right on the coast but I suppose the entire peninsula was right on the coast at one time or another. I would love to use clay soil. Up north I saw some native ponds that had a clay bottom and the smooth heavy texture seemed perfect for aquatic plants but I haven't been able to find clay anywhere. I've tried big outlets like Lowes and Home Depot. I've tried smaller nurseries, I tried two rock & gravel yards, and I've tried water garden speciality places and nobody sells clay. I always read about people using clay for aquatic plants but no one ever reveals the secret on where to buy it! I'm afraid of using kitty litter because I don't feel secure that its added perfumes and other additives would be safe in a pond with plants and fish. ## I never saw "clay" soil for sale. I dig it up right behind my house. Clay soil is just a dense fine particle soil. It also works it's way out of the pots and all over the pond. It's like mustard when wet. Pond plants do thrive in it though. For regular gardening I have to add sand and loads of compost. I tried an aquatic plant soil once, I think it was Scotts, and it was horrible. I had expected it to be granular clay that would disolve when wet, but the light chunks didn't dissolve at all. It was like trying to pot an aquatic plant in styrofoam balls. The stuff was too light and therefore had pitiful holding power. I can't believe its still on the market. ## Whatever sells...... Oh, and my pots aren't completely sand. I noticed that gravel always seems to sink into the planting medium so since gravel makes an adequate potting medium I mixed gravel into the pots. (It's probably a 75% sand to 25% gravel ratio though) -- McKoi.... the frugal ponder... ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#8
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![]() "scs0" wrote in message oups.com... There's nothing wrong with a pH of 8 to 8.5. I've heard that high pH values aren't bad for fish, but I read that plants have a difficult time absorbing nurtients with a pH above 7.8 - especially the free floating ones. My Hyacinths are looking pretty sad and from what I read a high pH will cause the symptoms that I have seen with them. ## Potash perks mine right up! I heaping TBS per 1000 gallons of water. Maybe I am being a little too worried over this. The fish seem happy and the rooted aquatic plants are growing, since I live in Florida I will always have easy access to water hyacinths anytime I want them so maybe I should hold off on playing with the pH for a few more weeks. ## I don't even bother to check mine anymore. :-) -- McKoi.... the frugal ponder... be silent, is the best answer to calumny." ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#9
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scs0 wrote:
My pond is made from an EPDM liner so concrete construction is not an issue. I'm glad you asked about the tap water pH because I forgot to mention that, I tested the pH last week and it was in the 7-8 range. I forget what it was but it was something pretty typical like 7.2 or 7.4. Over the weekend I finished up some work on the pond and filled it with an additional ~400 gallons or so of water. This was a combination of tap water and rainwater that poured on Saturday and I'm still having problems. I'm not sure what my sand's pH would be, I'm not right on the coast but I suppose the entire peninsula was right on the coast at one time or another. I would love to use clay soil. Up north I saw some native ponds that had a clay bottom and the smooth heavy texture seemed perfect for aquatic plants but I haven't been able to find clay anywhere. I've tried big outlets like Lowes and Home Depot. I've tried smaller nurseries, I tried two rock & gravel yards, and I've tried water garden speciality places and nobody sells clay. I always read about people using clay for aquatic plants but no one ever reveals the secret on where to buy it! I'm afraid of using kitty litter because I don't feel secure that its added perfumes and other additives would be safe in a pond with plants and fish. I tried an aquatic plant soil once, I think it was Scotts, and it was horrible. I had expected it to be granular clay that would disolve when wet, but the light chunks didn't dissolve at all. It was like trying to pot an aquatic plant in styrofoam balls. The stuff was too light and therefore had pitiful holding power. I can't believe its still on the market. Oh, and my pots aren't completely sand. I noticed that gravel always seems to sink into the planting medium so since gravel makes an adequate potting medium I mixed gravel into the pots. (It's probably a 75% sand to 25% gravel ratio though) If you still have some pH Down, drop a few drops of it on your rocks, sand, etc. You'll see bubbles as strong acid reacts with carbonate minerals if they are going to dissolve and change your pH. It's an easier test than trying to actually pH test a mineral. I'm using Schultz Aquatic Plant Soil from Home Depot now. It's made from a porous inert ceramic, and comes in fine gravel sized particles. I'm having no problems with it holding down my plants - I even have some watercress rooting in it. Maybe you'd like it better than Scotts. I've had the same problem as you finding plain clay kitty liter. I can't find anything that doesn't contain perfume or bacteriocides and they're all labeled "not for garden use." -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
#10
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![]() "Reel McKoi" wrote in message ... ## I never saw "clay" soil for sale. I dig it up right behind my house. Clay soil is just a dense fine particle soil. It also works it's way out of the pots and all over the pond. It's like mustard when wet. Pond plants do thrive in it though. For regular gardening I have to add sand and loads of compost. Not likely to be much clay soil where he lives in Florida. |
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Stubborn Ich problem | Gill Passman | General | 42 | April 19th 05 11:28 PM |