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#1
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The last couple months, I have been noticing an increasing issue with
my 2 year-old 75g reef. Macro will no longer grow, and my mangrove is beginning to yellow. Green algaes are growing quicker than normal. My button polyps are receding. My other corals, inverts and fish seem fine. 75 gallon with 20g sump. Approx 600gph PC lighting temp 79F ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5 or less PH 7.8 PO4 0 11.5 KH Alk 4.11 meq/l calcium 400 SG 1.022 I know that the low nitrates likely are keeping the macro down and starving the mangrove. I'd like some tips on what I should be looking at, or could do to return my reef to the level it once thrived at. -- billy |
#2
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Hi;
It seems to me that your system is showing signs of isolation. Yes, if an ecosystem gets isolated it is depleted and no longer functional. Is this your case? I don't know. For your readings it seems that your system is not normal. In any system there is NO2, Ammonia and PO4. You see, your plants and bacteria need them. You need to feed each organism what they need if not, they will behave in unexpected ways, plants tend to lose their coloration, inverts tend to become fragile and fish get sick easily. In the wild, they just migrate, plants just spread. jrs "Billy" wrote in message ... The last couple months, I have been noticing an increasing issue with my 2 year-old 75g reef. Macro will no longer grow, and my mangrove is beginning to yellow. Green algaes are growing quicker than normal. My button polyps are receding. My other corals, inverts and fish seem fine. 75 gallon with 20g sump. Approx 600gph PC lighting temp 79F ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5 or less PH 7.8 PO4 0 11.5 KH Alk 4.11 meq/l calcium 400 SG 1.022 I know that the low nitrates likely are keeping the macro down and starving the mangrove. I'd like some tips on what I should be looking at, or could do to return my reef to the level it once thrived at. -- billy |
#3
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"Jaime R-S" wrote in message . ..
Is this your case? I don't know. For your readings it seems that your system is not normal. In any system there is NO2, Ammonia and PO4. What are you talking about ? Ammonia and nitrites are in a healthy fish tank at so low levels they are undetectable with our hobby-grade tests... And this is how you should read his test results: he has not run a lab test on his ammonia to detect micrograms or nano-grams per liter - he has used color test acurate enough to detect significant levels about 0.25-0.5mg/l and more. If he is saying he measured "0" he means he has less than 0.25mg/l ammonia (NH3+NH4+ together) in his water... Similar situation is with nitrites and phosphates... "Zero" simply means "less than my test is able to detect" thats all. His water measurements of ammonia and nitrites are perfectly ok. |
#4
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"Billy" wrote in message ...
The last couple months, I have been noticing an increasing issue with my 2 year-old 75g reef. Macro will no longer grow, and my mangrove is beginning to yellow. Green algaes are growing quicker than normal. My button polyps are receding. My other corals, inverts and fish seem fine. What green algae are we talking about ? Hair-type like Derbesia sp. or Bryopsis sp.? http://images.google.com/images?svnu...sia+sp&spell=1 http://images.google.com/images?svnu...&q=bryopsis+sp How about your algae grazers ? Do you have enough snails/hermits? A lot of algae growth means that they have food to grow... You measure low nutrients simply because you have enough algae to eat them faster they are produced. But nutrients ARE being constantly produced in your tank. Not knowing your tank a lot I would risk a suggestion to purchase more grazers to cope with green algae outbreak. Use www.reeftopia.com and order package of reef cleaning crew: 150 micro-blue legged hermits, couple of dozen small hermits, 100 micro astrea snails -- they will spread nicelly in your tank and start doing their job of eating green algae and produce waste in the form of nitrates and phosphate to fuel your macroalgae and mangrovies. Action of hermits will produce a lot of algae cuttlings in the water column so be prepared to use some floss in your filter to catch them before they reattach themselves. The reason I recommended small animals is that you can get many of them for a reasonable price and also being small, they will have no problem entering every single rock cavity larger animals have no access to... And do not worry - small animals will grow on your algae and become larger. Consider purchasing some shells for growing hermits to switch their homes too. Depending on how often you do water change you might consider increasing the rate or amount of water change and usage of the activated carbon to further remove water coloration... Outbreaks of green hair algae usually make the water yellow and full of smelly metabolic byproducts of algae wich are not good... |
#5
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I would also suggest that phosphate can read ZERO because they are being
used, not because they aren't present. A lot of algae growth would ten to support this conclusion -- the algae are consuming the PO4 therefore the test doesn't show it. Pszemol wrote: "Billy" wrote in message ... The last couple months, I have been noticing an increasing issue with my 2 year-old 75g reef. Macro will no longer grow, and my mangrove is beginning to yellow. Green algaes are growing quicker than normal. My button polyps are receding. My other corals, inverts and fish seem fine. What green algae are we talking about ? Hair-type like Derbesia sp. or Bryopsis sp.? http://images.google.com/images?svnu...sia+sp&spell=1 http://images.google.com/images?svnu...&q=bryopsis+sp How about your algae grazers ? Do you have enough snails/hermits? A lot of algae growth means that they have food to grow... You measure low nutrients simply because you have enough algae to eat them faster they are produced. But nutrients ARE being constantly produced in your tank. Not knowing your tank a lot I would risk a suggestion to purchase more grazers to cope with green algae outbreak. Use www.reeftopia.com and order package of reef cleaning crew: 150 micro-blue legged hermits, couple of dozen small hermits, 100 micro astrea snails -- they will spread nicelly in your tank and start doing their job of eating green algae and produce waste in the form of nitrates and phosphate to fuel your macroalgae and mangrovies. Action of hermits will produce a lot of algae cuttlings in the water column so be prepared to use some floss in your filter to catch them before they reattach themselves. The reason I recommended small animals is that you can get many of them for a reasonable price and also being small, they will have no problem entering every single rock cavity larger animals have no access to... And do not worry - small animals will grow on your algae and become larger. Consider purchasing some shells for growing hermits to switch their homes too. Depending on how often you do water change you might consider increasing the rate or amount of water change and usage of the activated carbon to further remove water coloration... Outbreaks of green hair algae usually make the water yellow and full of smelly metabolic byproducts of algae wich are not good... |
#6
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![]() "Charles" wrote in message .. . I would also suggest that phosphate can read ZERO because they are being used, not because they aren't present. A lot of algae growth would ten to support this conclusion -- the algae are consuming the PO4 therefore the test doesn't show it. Thank you all. pszemol, I'm a dumbass! Of course! My hermit poulation has dwindeled to almost nothing, it makes perfect sense that the hair algae is consuming the nutrients! I'm ordering a batch of blue-legs. I'm also getting a better overflow so I can install the mag9 I have sitting here, my current OF box can't handle the flow. Increased flow should help the overall health of my system, and I'm going to hunt up the receipt for my lights to determine exactly how old they are. billy |
#7
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Your salinity is to low it should be 1.025. You should measure 0
nitrate, any measure above 0 is bad. Ph should be above 8 |
#8
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The PH has always been about 7.8\7.9, and I know the salinity is a
bit lower than some say is optimal, but I've always run it a bit low. Both of these have been this way for 2 years. If there is one thing I've learned about reefing, there are no absolutes, no hard and fast rules outside of "you must use water". g As far as the nitrates, I disagree. I've seen FO tanks with nitrates around 100 that flourished, and reef tanks not much lower that flourished as well. The low nitrates are part of my issue here, they're so low my mangrove is starving! Anyone can read a book and recite 'optimal' water parameters. -- ¼á "pfishc" wrote in message oups.com... Your salinity is to sic low it should be 1.025. You should measure 0 nitrate, any measure above 0 is bad. Ph should be above 8 |
#10
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Jaime R-S wrote:
In any system there is NO2, Ammonia and PO4. No, there isn't. These items may be being constantly produced, but in a well balanced system, various occupants of the tanks are eating them as fast as they're coming in. Detectible traces of these items are signs of an imbalance. George Patterson Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to your slightly older self. |
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