RO/DI choice

Hi
I wonder if these are good or no
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...tem=4309618491
Or do you have some other suggestions?
TIA

"Splitskull" wrote in message
...
Hi
I wonder if these are good or no
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...tem=4309618491
Or do you have some other suggestions?
TIA



Looks OK to me.... appears to have already added a flush valve and
another stage which I added to my RO/DI.

You should read up on the technology a bit...especially the mixed bed DI
part. It has drawbacks and cost mucho over the long haul.....

Find the real specs on the membrane and see if it can handle your
water.....

"Racf" wrote in message ...
You should read up on the technology a bit...especially the mixed bed DI
part. It has drawbacks and cost mucho over the long haul.....

What are the drawbacks of using mixed bed DI resins?

Subject: RO/DI choice
From: "Pszemol"
Date: 7/1/04 12:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

"Racf" wrote in message
...
You should read up on the technology a bit...especially the mixed bed DI
part. It has drawbacks and cost mucho over the long haul.....

What are the drawbacks of using mixed bed DI resins?

You probably can't recharge them. Typically, a heavy metal remover such as
Kent's toxic metal sponge can be recharged with muriatic acid whereas an
organic scavenger like seachem's hypersorb can be recharged with bleach. Once
you mix them, you can't recharge them anymore and will just have to eat the
cost of replacement whenever they get exhausted.

Personally, I just fill a clean trashcan with tapwater then dechlor and heat it
to temp. I filter it with a high grade carbon and phosphate remover along with
toxic metal sponge and hypersorb in a cannister filter. That way half the water
doesn't go down the drain as with an RO unit and I can recharge my resins
unlike with a mixed bed DI unit.

-M333

"Mandarin333" wrote in message ...
What are the drawbacks of using mixed bed DI resins?

You probably can't recharge them. Typically, a heavy metal remover such as
Kent's toxic metal sponge can be recharged with muriatic acid whereas an
organic scavenger like seachem's hypersorb can be recharged with bleach. Once
you mix them, you can't recharge them anymore and will just have to eat the
cost of replacement whenever they get exhausted.

Yes, this is a known fact rather than a hidden drawback... but ok.

Also, KENT makes a unit with two separate resin beds: anion/kation
and these you can recharge if you want. If you really want to deal
with acids and bases at home... Yes, if you have no small kids
running around it could be feasible, but otherwise... questionable.

KENT makes also a DI unit which works with tap water WITHOUT a RO
stage: this way you have NO WATER WASTED if you care so much about it.

In your last resort, when you really use them a lot, you can do
mixed resin separation yourself, recharge them, and mix them back.
I have found an article somewhere on the net describing the process
but do not remember where was it exactly.

Personally, I just fill a clean trashcan with tapwater then dechlor and heat it
to temp. I filter it with a high grade carbon and phosphate remover along with
toxic metal sponge and hypersorb in a cannister filter. That way half the water
doesn't go down the drain as with an RO unit and I can recharge my resins
unlike with a mixed bed DI unit.

What phosphate remover & heavy metal sponge do you use?

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...

In your last resort, when you really use them a lot, you can do
mixed resin separation yourself, recharge them, and mix them back.
I have found an article somewhere on the net describing the process
but do not remember where was it exactly.

What phosphate remover & heavy metal sponge do you use?

Is this the article you refering to, Pszemol?
http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/ditwp.html

CapFusion,....

"CapFusion" CapeFussion...@hotmail.., com wrote in message ...
In your last resort, when you really use them a lot, you can do
mixed resin separation yourself, recharge them, and mix them back.
I have found an article somewhere on the net describing the process
but do not remember where was it exactly.

Is this the article you refering to, Pszemol?
http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/ditwp.html

Yes, this is it - thank you... I should be better organized ;-)

"Simon O'Keeffe" wrote in message ...
So IMO give micro algae a go, You'lll find it can remove nutrients up to
10 times faster on average than most macros and is more stable and
provides a home for a larger quantity of inverts than the same area of
macro.
It's all good with micro algae.

Green hair algae is macro-algae too...
They call micro-algae only unicellular algae, green water.

You do not see people growing green hair algae for the risk
of introducing this stuff into the main tank - it looks ugly and
smothers delicate corals in your tank...
How do you keep hair algae to stay in your trays?

It come back to conditions. The conditions in the algae grow area are
preferd by algae so it grows there, there is also a lack of competition.
So when the main tank is grazed the nutrients end up in the algae filter
instead of back in the main tank.
Every tank with LR has hair algae spores, almost every surface in your
tank will have hair algae on it already. If your tank is healthy and
your grazers are keeping up you'll never see any hair algae on your
rocks, but this does not mean it's not there. My Algae filter strips the
nutrients from the water, in such an efficient manner that there is not
enough nutrients left to grow a visible amount pf algae in the main
tank. Lighting times spectrum and intensity are your weapons, and if
used correctly the hair algae is your best friend in the tank, I can't
believe experienced reefers are still scared of hair algae.
If you have a decent algae filter there is no way that the hair algae
could over take the main tank as there are just too few nutrients left,
for decent growth.
In one of my 4x2x2 tanks I run a 1000w MH (14k corallights) and there is
only a single hermit in the tank for grazing, there is very little
visible algae in the tank, and yet I still pull heaps out of the ATS
every fortnight. The other 4x2x2 I run 2 x 400w MH and this tank has
only a collector urchin for grazing. There is no visible algae in this
tank, only really strong coraline growth.
Also GHA is not a macro algae, micro- algae covers algae with no
vascular system AFAIK.
Most of the varietys are single cells but strands of cells are also in
this group.
Learn to use algae and dont be afraid of it, once you can grow it where
you want life is just too easy.
Well over 5 years later and I'm still very happy with my decision to go
with micro algae.
I'll never run a tank without some kind of micro algae filter.

Simon




Pszemol wrote:

"Simon O'Keeffe" wrote in message ...


So IMO give micro algae a go, You'lll find it can remove nutrients up to
10 times faster on average than most macros and is more stable and
provides a home for a larger quantity of inverts than the same area of
macro.
It's all good with micro algae.



Green hair algae is macro-algae too...
They call micro-algae only unicellular algae, green water.

You do not see people growing green hair algae for the risk
of introducing this stuff into the main tank - it looks ugly and
smothers delicate corals in your tank...
How do you keep hair algae to stay in your trays?

"Simon O'Keeffe" wrote in message
...

It come back to conditions. The conditions in the algae grow area are
preferd by algae so it grows there, there is also a lack of competition.
So when the main tank is grazed the nutrients end up in the algae filter
instead of back in the main tank.
Every tank with LR has hair algae spores, almost every surface in your
tank will have hair algae on it already. If your tank is healthy and
your grazers are keeping up you'll never see any hair algae on your
rocks, but this does not mean it's not there. My Algae filter strips the
nutrients from the water, in such an efficient manner that there is not
enough nutrients left to grow a visible amount pf algae in the main
tank. Lighting times spectrum and intensity are your weapons, and if
used correctly the hair algae is your best friend in the tank, I can't
believe experienced reefers are still scared of hair algae.
If you have a decent algae filter there is no way that the hair algae
could over take the main tank as there are just too few nutrients left,
for decent growth.
In one of my 4x2x2 tanks I run a 1000w MH (14k corallights) and there is
only a single hermit in the tank for grazing, there is very little
visible algae in the tank, and yet I still pull heaps out of the ATS
every fortnight. The other 4x2x2 I run 2 x 400w MH and this tank has
only a collector urchin for grazing. There is no visible algae in this
tank, only really strong coraline growth.
Also GHA is not a macro algae, micro- algae covers algae with no
vascular system AFAIK.
Most of the varietys are single cells but strands of cells are also in
this group.
Learn to use algae and dont be afraid of it, once you can grow it where
you want life is just too easy.
Well over 5 years later and I'm still very happy with my decision to go
with micro algae.
I'll never run a tank without some kind of micro algae filter.

Simon

Yeap, this should be the way how it work. Using natural way to remove
nutrient. Experience Reefer should not be scared of algae but know how to
use it to reefer advantage.

CapFusion,....