co2 reactor: Larger or multiple?

On a big tank with an overflow would it be better to use a very big reactor or
to use multiple reactors?

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I think it depends on the tank's water circulation. I have a 200 gal tank,
circulation is over 1200 gal/h, so I just use a very big reactor. But if the
turnover is very small, say once or twice the tank an hour, multiple
reactors would be good.

Cheers
Kenneth

"Paulio629" ¦b¶l¥ó
¤¤¼¶¼g...
On a big tank with an overflow would it be better to use a very big
reactor or
to use multiple reactors?




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I am only turning over the tank 3x an hour so I wil be trying the multiple
reactors. It would be simple to increase the flow but my Altums hide more when
the current is higher. Thanks for the info!


I think it depends on the tank's water circulation. I have a 200 gal tank,
circulation is over 1200 gal/h, so I just use a very big reactor. But if the
turnover is very small, say once or twice the tank an hour, multiple
reactors would be good.

Cheers
Kenneth

I've tried a number of different methods. We have a 100G tank with double
overflows.

- I had built a diffuser with balls in a chunk of PVC pipe. It worked, but
the ball stack kept getting clogged up by debris. Also got bubble in the
tank. After I while I got fed up with that and junked it.

- Then I tried feeding the CO2 into a cansiter filter. It worked really
well with the Magnum 350, but it never worked worth beans with my Eheim
2226. Depends on whether the impeller is at the top or bottom of the
canister. The CO2 will of course all build up at the top, and this is just
no good with impellers at the top. Magnum was at the bottom.

- The way I am doing it now works super. I have one of the Lifegard AF-92
heater modules. I inject the CO2 after the pump into the heater inlet under
the tank. The CO2 builds up at the top of the heater chamber. The only
place for it to go is into the water. I get 100% diffusion. No lost CO2 at
all, no bubbles ever in the tank. Even with DIY CO2 I can easily get 40PPM.
Highly recommended if you have such a heater.

Chris.

Suggest you consider:

1) Using your original reactor with bio balls on the output side of your
canister. Avoids the debris.

2) Run a powerhead, with a prefilter on it - through the original reactor.

3) Get two power reactors - the big ones - from Plantguild
http://www.plantguild.com/html/reactors.html
I have one in my 55 gal which works great.

--
Bob Alston

bobalston9 AT aol DOT com
"Chris_S" wrote in message
...
I've tried a number of different methods. We have a 100G tank with double
overflows.

- I had built a diffuser with balls in a chunk of PVC pipe. It worked,
but
the ball stack kept getting clogged up by debris. Also got bubble in the
tank. After I while I got fed up with that and junked it.

- Then I tried feeding the CO2 into a cansiter filter. It worked really
well with the Magnum 350, but it never worked worth beans with my Eheim
2226. Depends on whether the impeller is at the top or bottom of the
canister. The CO2 will of course all build up at the top, and this is
just
no good with impellers at the top. Magnum was at the bottom.

- The way I am doing it now works super. I have one of the Lifegard AF-92
heater modules. I inject the CO2 after the pump into the heater inlet
under
the tank. The CO2 builds up at the top of the heater chamber. The only
place for it to go is into the water. I get 100% diffusion. No lost CO2
at
all, no bubbles ever in the tank. Even with DIY CO2 I can easily get
40PPM.
Highly recommended if you have such a heater.

Chris.




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Why would I consider adding more hardware that does not work as good.
I don't know how you improve on 100% diffusion.

Chris.

Sorry Chris. I read your note too fast. I thought all options did not
work. Now I see you were chronicling the ones that didn't before stating
the final solution that did. Glad you got it working.

--
Bob Alston

bobalston9 AT aol DOT com
"Chris_S" wrote in message
.. .
Why would I consider adding more hardware that does not work as good.
I don't know how you improve on 100% diffusion.

Chris.




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Chris_S wrote:


- The way I am doing it now works super. I have one of the Lifegard AF-92
heater modules. I inject the CO2 after the pump into the heater inlet under
the tank. The CO2 builds up at the top of the heater chamber. The only
place for it to go is into the water. I get 100% diffusion. No lost CO2 at
all, no bubbles ever in the tank. Even with DIY CO2 I can easily get 40PPM.
Highly recommended if you have such a heater.

Chris.



I tried something similar and got temp swings from the changing gas
level. have you experienced the same?

Kris

My system works perfect. I have a 250W Ebo heater in the AF-92 module. The
heater is 18 Inches long. Even with a new batch of CO2 the gas pocket at
the top of the heater compartment is never more than an 1 Inch. The rest of
the heater is still completely surrounded by water. Never been a problem.
My temp stays within +/- 0.25F all the time.

I am really amazed at how fast the CO2 can now diffuse into the water. It
is under the pressure of the tank water, and it seems to force the CO2 into
the water very rapidly. Most of the time there is only a very small pocket
of gas at the top.

I think using a trapped pocket of gas is the best way to diffuse CO2 by far.
100% of the gas goes into the water and there are never any bubbles released
into the tank. The trick is having the right place to create a pocket. The
AF-92 heater module is ideal.

Chris.


"Kris" wrote in message
news:Iavpc.11002$j6.8512@edtnps84...
Chris_S wrote:


- The way I am doing it now works super. I have one of the Lifegard
AF-92
heater modules. I inject the CO2 after the pump into the heater inlet
under
the tank. The CO2 builds up at the top of the heater chamber. The only
place for it to go is into the water. I get 100% diffusion. No lost
CO2 at
all, no bubbles ever in the tank. Even with DIY CO2 I can easily get
40PPM.
Highly recommended if you have such a heater.

Chris.



I tried something similar and got temp swings from the changing gas
level. have you experienced the same?

Kris

(Paulio629) wrote in message ...
On a big tank with an overflow would it be better to use a very big reactor or
to use multiple reactors?

One good sized one and put more flow in the tank, Your Altums are not
having issues with the flow, I know, I've set up several tanks with
them.

You need to use a spray bar for an even return flow pattern if you
have areas with too much current.

6-8x an hour turnover was not a problem on a 155 gal tank.
You can also have plenty of plants which reduces flow considerably and
also drift wood can as well. Plenty of gental current and flow is
good, strong sections of high flow is not.

Good mixing will improve plant growth and ultimately fish health.
Many people remove the wet dry sections and use a bag filter/s that
use sumps these days and this seems to help also.

Flow pattern for ther return make a difference, have the spray bar
return the water along the back bottom and have the flow rise uop
through all the plants. This keeps the current right into the plants
and the fish from hiding in them.
Make sure to drill an antisiphon hole near the top of the spray bar.
The spray bar along the back bottom edge of the tank also is hidden
since most people plant plants:-)
So this is an ideal place for it and gives the best return for CO2
enrichment.

This method works for very large tanks, eg, 2000-4000 gal planted
tanks, that use a single large reactor. I know, I've built them for
tanks this large.

Regards,
Tom Barr