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MIDPOSTED
"Dave M. Picklyk" wrote in message news:uEtxc.556$Dr.465@edtnps84... The N is my problem, I cut it out after seeing algae appearing on some stuff. Then I did a test and it was insanely high...the test kits sux...it was saying like 30ppm or so....maybe who knows the colors were all messed up (Nutrafin). Anyhoo, after getting rid of some fish I now I'm measure around 5 ppm which is supposed to be the ideal range...but I'm not sure if it's under 5 ppm like say 2 or 1 ppm...because the test kit sucks so much. Dave, maybe its just me and you, but due to events like living in a third world country I simply do not have access to all those groovy test kits I hear all of you talking about. Either they're non-existant or have simply been sitting on the shelf too long and are rendered useless. Test kits are highly overpriced here and as you say can sometimes be very difficult to read! Anyhow, I've given up on test kits and just use ranges. Here's what I do: Sunday: 50-70% water change on a 10 gallon. You can safely assume that with this w/c the nutrients have been reset to "very low". Lets consider them all zero. If you take my nutrient dosing from the post above I would dose a good 4ml's sometimes more depending on how I feel the plants are doing. 5ppm N is way too low (IME) and I try to push it up to between 15-20ppm N. I dose fleet enema (4-6 drops) and then dose traces (locally manufactured and cheap) 3-5ml. Mix up a new batch of co2 (I have 2 2litre coke bottles fed into the intake of an AC filter on a 10 gallon tank), new bottle bi-weekly. Ferts are dosed again on Wednesday night at lights out and again on Friday at lights out. This pretty much keeps my tank in top notch condition, sometimes I slip and don't change the bottle only to have small outbreaks of BBA. Otherwise the tank is pristine ![]() have 2 15watt cool white clip on desk lamps which work like a bomb. Every Sunday I do some vigorous pruning and then only have 1 of the lights on till say Thursday, by that time my Sessiflora has reached the top and is trailing over the water surface blocking light to the plants below (Windelov, anubias, crypts, java fern & Monnieri) this is when I switch on the 2nd light and blast 3wpg until the next Sunday water change. I can't afford the Lamotte kits ($156 CAN each plus ~$175 hazardous goods freight charge to bring accross the border) but I've heard of Salifert and some others that are much better than what I have. I think once I have the higher light cranked I need much more accurate measuring of nutrients in my aquarium. Everything becomes more difficult ![]() Actually you're making it difficult for yourself. The Nutrients can only be in an optimum range, you don't HAVE to be spot on, this indeed would be difficult. Ditch the test kits, they'll only give you grey hair and make your eyes squint. With 4wpg you would probably need to dose 4 times a week instead of 3 etc. Nutrient dosing is not cast in stone, there are only guidelines, it all depends on fishload, plant varieties and light & co2. Every aquarist is different. Be discerning and watch your plants relating to your dosing schedule, if they seem a bit frail at the end of the week then feed more, if they look good then maybe a tad less until you find 'your tank's' optimum schedule. As Einstein said: "Its all relative ![]() gardening mate. |
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Thanx Happy Camper...good stuff to keep in mind. Everything was going
perfectly (I had my nice routine and perfect balance) until 1. I noticed some algae growth 2. Stopped dosing NO3 (Assuming I had too much) 3. Increased light from 2.7wpg to 4wpg Jeez, I hope I can fix this mess. Dave. "Happy'Cam'per" wrote in message ... MIDPOSTED "Dave M. Picklyk" wrote in message news:uEtxc.556$Dr.465@edtnps84... The N is my problem, I cut it out after seeing algae appearing on some stuff. Then I did a test and it was insanely high...the test kits sux...it was saying like 30ppm or so....maybe who knows the colors were all messed up (Nutrafin). Anyhoo, after getting rid of some fish I now I'm measure around 5 ppm which is supposed to be the ideal range...but I'm not sure if it's under 5 ppm like say 2 or 1 ppm...because the test kit sucks so much. Dave, maybe its just me and you, but due to events like living in a third world country I simply do not have access to all those groovy test kits I hear all of you talking about. Either they're non-existant or have simply been sitting on the shelf too long and are rendered useless. Test kits are highly overpriced here and as you say can sometimes be very difficult to read! Anyhow, I've given up on test kits and just use ranges. Here's what I do: Sunday: 50-70% water change on a 10 gallon. You can safely assume that with this w/c the nutrients have been reset to "very low". Lets consider them all zero. If you take my nutrient dosing from the post above I would dose a good 4ml's sometimes more depending on how I feel the plants are doing. 5ppm N is way too low (IME) and I try to push it up to between 15-20ppm N. I dose fleet enema (4-6 drops) and then dose traces (locally manufactured and cheap) 3-5ml. Mix up a new batch of co2 (I have 2 2litre coke bottles fed into the intake of an AC filter on a 10 gallon tank), new bottle bi-weekly. Ferts are dosed again on Wednesday night at lights out and again on Friday at lights out. This pretty much keeps my tank in top notch condition, sometimes I slip and don't change the bottle only to have small outbreaks of BBA. Otherwise the tank is pristine ![]() have 2 15watt cool white clip on desk lamps which work like a bomb. Every Sunday I do some vigorous pruning and then only have 1 of the lights on till say Thursday, by that time my Sessiflora has reached the top and is trailing over the water surface blocking light to the plants below (Windelov, anubias, crypts, java fern & Monnieri) this is when I switch on the 2nd light and blast 3wpg until the next Sunday water change. I can't afford the Lamotte kits ($156 CAN each plus ~$175 hazardous goods freight charge to bring accross the border) but I've heard of Salifert and some others that are much better than what I have. I think once I have the higher light cranked I need much more accurate measuring of nutrients in my aquarium. Everything becomes more difficult ![]() Actually you're making it difficult for yourself. The Nutrients can only be in an optimum range, you don't HAVE to be spot on, this indeed would be difficult. Ditch the test kits, they'll only give you grey hair and make your eyes squint. With 4wpg you would probably need to dose 4 times a week instead of 3 etc. Nutrient dosing is not cast in stone, there are only guidelines, it all depends on fishload, plant varieties and light & co2. Every aquarist is different. Be discerning and watch your plants relating to your dosing schedule, if they seem a bit frail at the end of the week then feed more, if they look good then maybe a tad less until you find 'your tank's' optimum schedule. As Einstein said: "Its all relative ![]() Happy gardening mate. |
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