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betta tank



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 24th 04, 07:26 PM
Kay
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Default betta tank

Larry Blanchard wrote:
I'm setting up a ten gallon aquarium with a lot of live plants. I'm
putting a divider down the middle and one male betta on each side. My
question is filtration.

I've read that bettas, even in the inadequate containers that most use,
don't require filtration.

I know that the ammonia/nitrite bacteria will colonize the tank without
a filter. I know the live plants will absorb a lot of nitrates. I know
that one (not overfed) betta per five gallons doesn't generate much
waste.

Given this, I've decided to go without any filtration other than water
changes.

Any comments?


Any fish would benefit from filtration. But I have a betta in a 3 gallon
tank with live plants and I don't have a filter. I change the water
every 4 days. Hmm I have 2 battas each in a 3 gallons, maybe your idea
with the 10 would work out with mine!

Kay
  #2  
Old October 25th 04, 02:58 AM
IDzine01
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I wouldn't have a 10 gal without cycling it. I have two 10 gals each
with one betta and a 6 gal with one betta and all the tanks are cycled.
They benefit greatly from a cycled tank. You don't HAVE to cycle it but
you will HAVE to do 100% water changes instead and that's just a ton
more work for you. Plus, you'll be testing your water far more often
and have to be regulating all the water parameters at each 100% water
change. (It's a lot easier to keep the pH and temp stable when you're
only changing 20% of the water instead of 100%.

Bettas should not be exposed to any ammonia or nitrites. If anyone
tells you differently, they haven't battled the fin rot. Even exposure
to .25 ppm over time can cause a great deal of damage in these fish. .

I'd get filtration and cycle the tank (without the bettas) without a
doubt.

  #3  
Old October 25th 04, 03:49 AM
Billy
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"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
|
| Given this, I've decided to go without any filtration other than
water
| changes.
|
| Any comments?
|


Take it very slow. Add the plants well in advance of the Betta's, and
add the fish one at a time, seperated by as long as possible.
If you can, have the tank fishless-cycled before adding the
plants. It will cycle, and maintain the cycle given enough plants and
good water changes, but the bio-capacity will be low. An LFS that
used to be in this town had a 150 gallon tank with nothing but plants
for filtration, and a powerhead to keep the water from stagnating. It
was gorgeous. Had a 'not for sale' sign on it, and it always looked
teriffic. Had about 20 various tetras in it.


  #4  
Old October 25th 04, 05:00 PM
Anoif
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Filters are so cheap, and bettas like clean water as well as the next
fish. I suppose they might survive, but
will they [i:6324c31597]thrive[/i:6324c31597]?
__________________________________________________
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  #5  
Old October 25th 04, 05:22 PM
IDzine01
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I didn't see the post the other person wrote about cycling a tank
without a filter. Most of the bacteria in a cycled tank live in the
filter media so I'm not sure why they would advise you to do this. If
you're going to cycle your tank you need a filter. You'll be surprised
how fast two bettas will create ammonia in a 10 gal tank. Of course
each betta produces ammonia at a different rate and there are many
factors that lead to the build up of ammonia (filtration, type and
quantity of food, plants, etc)

Don't fall for the plant absorption method, it doesn't work. I can tell
you with 100% certainty that your plants are not going to be enough to
keep toxins out of the water. If you're going to try a tank cycling
experiment with any fish, (which I don't advise) bettas are not the
right choice. They are far to susceptible to the effects of toxins in
the water.

  #6  
Old October 25th 04, 05:23 PM
IDzine01
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I didn't see the post the other person wrote about cycling a tank
without a filter. Most of the bacteria in a cycled tank live in the
filter media so I'm not sure why they would advise you to do this. If
you're going to cycle your tank you need a filter. You'll be surprised
how fast two bettas will create ammonia in a 10 gal tank. Of course
each betta produces ammonia at a different rate and there are many
factors that lead to the build up of ammonia (filtration, type and
quantity of food, plants, etc)

Don't fall for the plant absorption method, it doesn't work. I can tell
you with 100% certainty that your plants are not going to be enough to
keep toxins out of the water. If you're going to try a tank cycling
experiment with any fish, (which I don't advise) bettas are not the
right choice. They are far to susceptible to the effects of toxins in
the water.

  #7  
Old October 26th 04, 01:10 AM
Billy
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"IDzine01" wrote in message
oups.com...
|
|
| Don't fall for the plant absorption method, it doesn't work. I can
tell
| you with 100% certainty that your plants are not going to be enough
to
| keep toxins out of the water.

I disagree. See my other post about the 150 gallon at the LFS.
Additionally, I have a 35 gallon, heavily planted tank. 2 years ago,
when my powerfilter died, it sat without any artificial filtration
for nearly 2 weeks, as I was beyond broke. I moved most of the fish
to another tank, but left about 15-20 inches of fish in it. (mostly
tetra's and the kuhli's, that I wouldn't have been able to catch
anyway) I added some hornwort, since it's a fast grower. The water
parameters stayed solid. No ammonia, minimal nitrate, no nitrite. I
didn't even do any water changes, because there simpy wasn't any
reason. I would stake my 75 gallon reef on a well planted 10gallon's
ability to keep up with 2 betta's assuming regular water changes.


  #9  
Old October 26th 04, 04:46 AM
Eric Schreiber
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Larry Blanchard wrote:

while I might not need the filtering ability, I would need
something to circulate the water, and a filter was as good
a way as any.


There are a couple makes of small, submersible filters that you could
probably hide in a tank pretty well. I'm using a Duetto DJ50 in my 10
gallon betta tank, and I think Fluval makes something similar as well.

The same person informed me I'd have to get a CO2 generator or my
plants would die.


As Billy noted, that's quite incorrect. A planted tank can do quite
well without supplemental CO2. My heavily planted 20 gallon used to
have CO2 injection, and it grew like mad. However, I got tired of
replacing yeast bottles, and so I haven't had CO2 running since
January. While not quite as fast growing, the tank is still doing
*very* well. Yesterday I removed a couple of armloads of plant
trimmings.

Much more important than CO2, in my opinion, is light. A standard
lighted hood for a ten gallon may not provide enough light - consider a
custom hood (if you're handy, you can build one yourself for about $50)
or using two regular light strips on the tank.

Of course, he also told me the plants I wanted wouldn't grow in our
7.0-7.8 PH water, but the atlas I've got gives allowable PH range and
all but one plant (Java Fern) would tolerate at least up to 7.5.


My water here is about 7.6 pH, and I've grown a wide variety of plants
with considerable success.

--
Eric Schreiber
www.ericschreiber.com
  #10  
Old October 26th 04, 09:16 AM
Vicki PS
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"Eric Schreiber" eric at ericschreiber dot com wrote in message
...
There are a couple makes of small, submersible filters that you could
probably hide in a tank pretty well. I'm using a Duetto DJ50 in my 10
gallon betta tank, and I think Fluval makes something similar as well.


Not sure if they're available where you are, but Resun have some very nifty
small internal power filters, eg. the Mini, and the Magi-Jet 200. Both
rated 200l/hr, and the Magi-Jet has a little spray bar attachment. Either
would work well in a 10 gallon. And they're cheap.

Vicki PS


 




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