Like watching grass grow...

First I thought the research phase would take forever- it seemed I would
never get a handle on the most basic of reef issues.

Then came the assembling- waiting for equipment shipments and redoing the
plumbing yet again- it seemed an uphill battle just to get two aquariums
plumbed together.

Then came the real patience tester- making 200 gallons of RO/DI water.....
one dripping drop at a time.

But today?
I'm waiting for the first half of my "package" from Tampa Bay Sal****er to
get here.
Now *this* is a waiting game.


--
Toni rocks TODAY!!
http://www.cearbhaill.com/reef.htm

"Toni" wrote in message
hlink.net...
First I thought the research phase would take forever- it seemed I would
never get a handle on the most basic of reef issues.

Then came the assembling- waiting for equipment shipments and redoing the
plumbing yet again- it seemed an uphill battle just to get two aquariums
plumbed together.

Then came the real patience tester- making 200 gallons of RO/DI water.....
one dripping drop at a time.

But today?
I'm waiting for the first half of my "package" from Tampa Bay Sal****er to
get here.
Now *this* is a waiting game.


--
Toni rocks TODAY!!
http://www.cearbhaill.com/reef.htm



my ro/di system is pretty strange, it starts out making about a gallon an
hour, but after a while it kicks into overdrive and starts making 2-4
gallons an hour. It makes the most when I forget about it and go to sleep.
Then I wake up in the middle of the night and remember I was making water.
I run to the garage and, believe it or not, stop the system literally inches
from over flowing my 45 gallon tub. Everyone is saying, I can just hear it,
"get a valve". Yeah, I know. I went to the LFS and they wanted like $150
for a valve and since then I have not bothered with a solution.

A Kent Float Switch is $15.

Marc


plaguebeast wrote:

my ro/di system is pretty strange, it starts out making about a gallon an
hour, but after a while it kicks into overdrive and starts making 2-4
gallons an hour. It makes the most when I forget about it and go to sleep.
Then I wake up in the middle of the night and remember I was making water.
I run to the garage and, believe it or not, stop the system literally inches
from over flowing my 45 gallon tub. Everyone is saying, I can just hear it,
"get a valve". Yeah, I know. I went to the LFS and they wanted like $150
for a valve and since then I have not bothered with a solution.

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

A Kent Float Switch is $15.

it doesnt cut off waste water, but would keep the overflow from happening.

kc

"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message
...
|
|
| A Kent Float Switch is $15.
|
| it doesnt cut off waste water, but would keep the overflow from
happening.
| kc

But, if you hook up that float switch (notice they didn't say valve) to a
solenoid, it could be made to shut off the supply, instead of the output. A
much better solution, IMO.

Kev

Once the supply side is stopped, the waste line should stop with 30 seconds.

I like Kevin's method even better.

Marc


Dragon Slayer wrote:

A Kent Float Switch is $15.

it doesnt cut off waste water, but would keep the overflow from happening.

kc

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

guess the newer versions have improved. all the older ones I have had or
dealt with had a valve that was called a "shut off" that used two lines to
turn off the waste when the lever was moved to the off position. without
the waste water hooked to it they always ran waste water out.

how does the newer ones work?

kc

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
Once the supply side is stopped, the waste line should stop with 30
seconds.

I like Kevin's method even better.

Marc


Dragon Slayer wrote:

A Kent Float Switch is $15.

it doesnt cut off waste water, but would keep the overflow from
happening.

kc

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

What you are desribing sounds a lot like a ASOV (Auto Shut Off Valve). When you
close the supply side, the waste side turns off in 15 to 30 seconds. If it is
still running, the ASOV may need to be replaced.

The ASOV has 4 tubes going into it, so when replacing it is important to put
them in the correct order.

There is also a tiny check valve that comes out of the RO membrane housing that
I don't completely understand (grin) but if it is faulty, the unit won't turn
off.

Marc


Dragon Slayer wrote:

guess the newer versions have improved. all the older ones I have had or
dealt with had a valve that was called a "shut off" that used two lines to
turn off the waste when the lever was moved to the off position. without
the waste water hooked to it they always ran waste water out.

how does the newer ones work?

kc

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
Once the supply side is stopped, the waste line should stop with 30
seconds.

I like Kevin's method even better.

Marc


Dragon Slayer wrote:

A Kent Float Switch is $15.

it doesnt cut off waste water, but would keep the overflow from
happening.

kc

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com



--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

I put a lawn sprinkler valve and float on the supply side of mine and it
works flawless.
24v valve $15.00 (Home Depot)
magnetic float switch $6.00 (bought on e-bay)
24v transformer (a door bell transformer is cheaper than the one they sell
for the sprinkler valve) $12.00 (Home Depot)
bell wire 100' $10.00 (Home Depot)
David Young
"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
What you are desribing sounds a lot like a ASOV (Auto Shut Off Valve).
When you
close the supply side, the waste side turns off in 15 to 30 seconds. If
it is
still running, the ASOV may need to be replaced.

The ASOV has 4 tubes going into it, so when replacing it is important to
put
them in the correct order.

There is also a tiny check valve that comes out of the RO membrane housing
that
I don't completely understand (grin) but if it is faulty, the unit won't
turn
off.

Marc


Dragon Slayer wrote:

guess the newer versions have improved. all the older ones I have had
or
dealt with had a valve that was called a "shut off" that used two lines
to
turn off the waste when the lever was moved to the off position.
without
the waste water hooked to it they always ran waste water out.

how does the newer ones work?

kc

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
Once the supply side is stopped, the waste line should stop with 30
seconds.

I like Kevin's method even better.

Marc


Dragon Slayer wrote:

A Kent Float Switch is $15.

it doesnt cut off waste water, but would keep the overflow from
happening.

kc

--
Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com



--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
What you are desribing sounds a lot like a ASOV (Auto Shut Off Valve).
When you
close the supply side, the waste side turns off in 15 to 30 seconds. If
it is
still running, the ASOV may need to be replaced.

The ASOV has 4 tubes going into it, so when replacing it is important to
put
them in the correct order.

There is also a tiny check valve that comes out of the RO membrane housing
that
I don't completely understand (grin) but if it is faulty, the unit won't
turn
off.

Marc


Auto Shut off for RO - Automatic shutoff valve for reverse osmosis systems.
Easy to use 1/4" Jaco connectors included. - The "in & out" markings are on
the top of the valve. The top side of the valve is the high pressure side
and the bottom side is the low pressure side. The high pressure from the
filter housings goes to the "in" on the top of the valve. Then the high
pressure "out" goes to the membrane housing "in". The membrane housing low
pressure "out" connects to the "in" on the bottom side of the valve. The
"out" on the bottom goes to the tank. The valve automatically shuts off
production when the tank pressure reaches approximately 65% of the incoming
line pressure

CapFusion,...